nat

The original torque specifications, (for the cylinder head), are "very tight". I usually use specs from 1940's and 1950s manuals for the same diameter, thread pitch and, (preferably), application. There are lots of charts. I'd be inclined to use the specs for grade 5 uncoated fasteners. I'm not a big fan of Fastenal but here's their chart. https://forum.esk8.news/t/fasteners-what-they-are-whats-in-your-kit/4664/42?page=3

That's a sweet looking roadster. Be careful of all that gobbledygook in front of the radiator. It may cause an overheating problem. In some climates. Nat

How much longer does it take to get something done with help than it would to do it as usual? With that large a group of capable helpers, that probably isn't the case. Working on your own and keeping a crew going are two different things. Keep up the great work. Nat

You are certainly welcome to post on this forum but you might find more interest on the "Chrysler Auto and parts-sell" or "Chrysler products. general" forums. This forum is mostly viewed through spectacles by old farts that still don't believe that a 64' Polaris will ever have more than scrap value. Nat

"J" and "Q" are different on the left and right but everything else appers to be the same on both sides.

Every home should have one.

Under federal law, asbestos brake production is supposed to stop in 1993 and auto manufacturers are supposed to stop using it in new cars by 1995. By 1997, all asbestos brake linings are supposed to be off store shelves and out of new cars.Feb 14, 1991

From which it then drips.

My 24', (with a December 1923 serial #), was built with linoleum covered steel running boards.

Dykes manual has a decent trouble shooting guide. Fill the vacuum tank and run it with the the vent tube plugged. If it floods, the vent valve is leaking. If the flapper leaks, air can get sucked in from the bottom. With a bowl full of fuel in the carburetor, or a gravity feed, run it with the fuel outlet shut off to see if the tank fills. If fuel is available and it still hasn't filled it must be leaky gaskets or tank. Sometimes a vacuum leak can be detected by squirting oil around a seam or gasket to see if gets sucked in.

I very much doubt that a bearing is responsible for that scrape. Fat tires and/or wheels with the wrong offset might be the cause but one would think it would be similar on both sides. Is the radius bar bent?

And the fenders wold be less expensive.

My guess is that you want to relocate the distributor body by 60 or 90 degrees from where it is now. Providing the year, make, model and a clearer description of what you are trying to accomplish will generate a flurry of replies.

Icing will cause the engine power to fade away as the ice forms. Once the engine stalls or is shut off, rising heat will melt the ice and it will run again. It doesn't have to be below freezing for this to happen.