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About Farmallregular

  • Birthday 10/16/1952

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  1. Those things are horrible...I had one drop a truck on the side of the road one time, for no apparent reason. Fortunately I had just put the spare on and had a couple of lug nuts started, so it didn't drop all the way onto the axle. Strongly recommend against using one unless there is absolutely no alternative.
  2. They were basically a two-way VHF radio system that connected to a base station with a mobile operator, who would then dial the land line number and "patch" the radio audio to the land line. Service was generally limited to major metropolitan areas due to the relatively short range of the radio signal, which depended on terrain and how high the base antenna was located. I wasn't around them a lot, but I don't remember being able to dial directly from the mobile system, seems like you always had to go through the mobile operator. Keith
  3. Now that's interesting...when I brought my '24 in from Oregon about 6 or 7 years ago, all they cared about was that there was a number on the car somewhere that matched the number on the Oregon title, and that the Oregon title had signatures in the appropriate places. Stopped at a used car dealer next door to the DMV, got a VIN verification, took that form and the signed off title to the DMV office, and walked out with all the paperwork & plates. Title came in the mail later. Never took the car off the trailer. Wonder what's changed, or if you got someone who doesn't understand antique vehicles. Keith
  4. On my '24 touring, it's stamped on the outside of the right (passenger side) frame rail near the rear shackle mount for the front spring, similar to the photo in Mattml430's reply. I had to rub it gently with fine sandpaper to make it readable. As I recall the numbers are about 3/8 of an inch high. I'd assume it's in the same location on all cars of that year. Where in Colorado are you? We're a ways east of Parker. Keith
  5. I'm interested in the headlights. What other small pieces to do you have? I'd be interested in the axle, but I suspect shipping would be a killer. I'm located near Denver. Drop me a private e-mail with prices and let me know what else you have. Thanks, Keith
  6. According to the mechanics information manual, 898054 corresponds to a build date of early May 1923, which would be a 1923 model year. The frame number is the same as the number found on the data plate on the toe board. Here in Colorado that is the VIN number...the current descriptive VIN format didn't come along until much later. Check with your local motor vehicle office to see how to register it. Keith
  7. According to the mechanics information manual there were several version of the starter switch use, with different terminal locations. Here's some extracted text: "The type 8100-A starting switch and cut-out was used from car 559,652 to car 728,303. It is exactly similar in construction except for a change in the location of the terminals...the battery and generator terminals are changed about, on this type switch, so that the wires do not cross...the terminal is grounded to the switch case, and to the steering column by a metal strap, instead of to the vacuum tank bracket by means of a wire, as in the type 8100 switch. The type 11865-A switch was used from car 728,303 until the six-volt electrical system was installed on which the 15850 cut-out and 15380 switch is used. The 11865-A switch differs from the two previous types in that the series and shunt windings are not combined, and the contact points are made of metal instead of carbon. The ground terminal has been changed about with the indicator terminal." Keith
  8. Jeff, I hadn't planned on going back up this weekend. I'll send you a private e-mail. Keith
  9. Bill, sent you a private e-mail with my address. Thanks for your trust... Keith
  10. Where in Parker are you? We're east of Parker off of Singing Hills Road, just over the Elbert county line (although we still have a Parker address). I'm not sure which vehicles he's actually interested in selling, since I wasn't looking for a complete vehicle. He has a couple of unique IH trucks that I was looking at, but the only Dodge truck I remember is one I'm pretty sure he wasn't interested in selling. Just sent him a list of bits & pieces I'm still looking for. We spent most of an afternoon just going through his collection before we got down to buying specific parts, so didn't get a chance to look for everything I needed for my '24 touring. Keith
  11. I was up there last week, he has quite a collection, including a number of complete, nice antique cars. I bought some stuff, and am putting together a list of bits & pieces I need so he can look before I go back up. Plan on spending several hours looking at cars... I wasn't interested in a car, so I didn't talk prices, but he did indicate he was interested in selling one or more of the vehicles. Keith
  12. I could use all of them that don't have the holes for the rear brake drums drilled in them. Rear wheels have been re-built, but the fronts currently on the car are the wrong size. I have a set of the correct front wheels, but some of the spokes aren't in very good condition. What are you asking? Thanks, Keith
  13. Are you still interested in getting rid of the spokes. I'm looking at re-building front wheels for my 24 Touring. Thanks, Keith
  14. All Kettering ignition systems work the same way, regardless of voltage or polarity. There are some minor differences in details with polarity and voltage, but general operation is consistent. Here's a quick way to check what's going on using a test light. You can use a 12 volt light on a six volt system, it just won't be very bright. You can also use an analog meter, but a test light is easier to watch. Digital meters don't do well at measuring pulses... First, check to make sure the light is working and has a good ground. Attach the clip to a ground and touch the probe to a known hot source or the hot battery post - light should light. Touch the probe to the following points, crank the engine, and observe the light: Hot (battery) side of coil - light should be "on" steady. No light means you're not getting power to the coil. Light pulsing on or off, or varying in intensity, means you have a high resistance connection somewhere in the power circuit. Point side of coil - light should pulse as the points open and close..."on" when points are open, "off" when points are closed. Steady "on" means either the points aren't closing or the wire between the coil and points is broken. Steady "off" means either the points aren't opening or something (most likely the wire between the coil and points) is shorted to ground. If the points are in fact opening and closing correctly, as indicated by the test light pulsing when the engine is cranked, you should have spark at the output of the coil. You can check this by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and holding the distributor end near the engine block while cranking (not with your fingers unless you like getting zapped). You should have a nice fat blue spark at least 1/4" long. No spark at the output of the coil (and asuming the points are working correctly as determined above) means either a bad coil or a bad condenser. A weak yellow spark is generally a bad condenser. If you have spark at the output of the coil, reconnect it to the center post of the distributor, and repeat the check for spark at the end of one or more spark plug wires. If you have spark at the coil but not at the plugs, you most likely have either a bad/broken rotor, a bad distributor cap, or bad high tension wires. If you have spark at the plugs, check to make sure the distributor was timed correctly when the engine was assembled. As each cylinder comes up on compression, the rotor should point to the corresponding terminal on the distributor cap. If you set static timing so that the points just open (use the test light) at top dead center, the engine should run. Once it's running, you can set timing per the applicable manual. Keith
  15. The fan hub should be mounted on a pivot to allow adjustment of belt tension; depending on where its positioned now you may just have to tilt it down a little. Loosen the clamp bolt to adjust it. Keith
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