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Mark Gregush

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About Mark Gregush

  • Birthday 04/11/1956

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    Portland Oregon, born in Oregon City grew up in Canby

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  1. Check eBay, there was or is a LH one listed.
  2. RE: Hi Mark. The camshaft "drive gear" I mentioned, is the one on the crankshaft. The "driven gear' is on the camshaft. [ auto engineers terms ] I added: "The camshaft gear; there are alignment marks on the end of the camshaft and one on the gear, but no key", in case you might have been looking for a key on the cam shaft.
  3. The camshaft gear; there are alignment marks on the end of the camshaft and one on the gear, but no key.
  4. This is a volume not pressure system. The pressure on the gauge is more to indicate that oil is being pumped. Ford Model A's worked the same way at about the same pressures. For an oil filter you would want to use a full flow type, same as what Model A's would use in a non modified system, Ford Model T's can use the same filter with their gravity system.
  5. You might also ask on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America; https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/forums/20/1/1912-1928.html
  6. Try also posting on the Dodge Brothers Facebook pages. I bet you will find a lot more spares kicking around in your part of the world then you might think. (1) Dodge Brothers Motor Cars Dodge Brothers Club, Inc.
  7. .003 & .004 are correct, but that is for engine that is hot up to temp.
  8. While the straight windshield is correct for 1918, the mid year 1919 slant windshield (1920 models) roadster windshield was 2 inches lower than the touring. I don't know if that was the case in 1918, lower windshield. Here is a sample of 1918 touring; https://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/dodge/other-models/a-powerful-and-very-well-built-1918-dodge-model-30/9313004
  9. A set would be 4, 5 if you include the spare. Maybe saying how many wheels you are selling would help move them. If more than one, show a photo of the group.
  10. I don't see a lot of oil coming out between the block and guides on my well worn 21 engine. I think the groove is there for oil control.
  11. The Chevrolet maybe has better parts supplies or cost of replacement parts? More GM products sold, so more exposure?
  12. Unless you are going to be driving at high speeds and long distance to and from, why not just use the bearings you have now, if you have them, for the parade at least if you can't source them right away?
  13. For Chevrolet specific questions I would suggest VCCA. They did not use torque specifications back in those days. Spray the cap thread with something like PB Blaster. Unless it is a spelter/pot metal cap, it should be brass on brass threaded. You may have to used a strap wrench to take off. It has to come off anyway. Like most of the early cars, maybe you know this, but the water just needs to come over the top of the core. Resurrecting a '28 4 banger - Vintage Chevrolet Club - Discussion Forum
  14. I am going to guess there was a cork for felt seal in that push in cap at one time.
  15. If i read the Master parts list correct you need 5111 Brake band support spring, set screw, check nut, cotter pin and washer for 14" brakes used after about July 1916. I don't see any change in part number after that date. My copy of the brake pages are from the 9th edition of the Master parts list, which I think goes up to 1927. I will check but don't think I have any extras. Sorry don't have any extras. You might check with; Myers Early Dodge or ROMAR Home Page
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