nearchoclatetown

Members
  • Content Count

    3,974
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by nearchoclatetown

  1. Matt, I never realized how similar Victory and DA fenders are. I was showing my grandson what you did from your pictures and comparing it to my DA.
  2. I simply was trying to tell Brock it's not a big deal to change these tires, IF he wants to. I'm pushing 70 and choose not to be afraid of my cars and still change my own tires on three cars with this type of ring. I guess your leave it to the professional attitude could be used for brakes, batteries, suspension, maybe even putting gas in the tank. I choose to work on my cars. BTW, how did you become a professional changing as you say hundreds of them? Maybe one tire at a time?
  3. In your picture you can see the split, one side with a notch. You need to break the bead just like a normal tire, both front and rear. Take the core out of the tube first. Then with a tire iron or large screwdriver pry the ring loose by putting the iron into the notched side and prying against the rim. Stick a small chip of wood or smaller screwdriver into the gap of the ring when you get it loose and move to another area to get the rest loose. When you take the tire off clean the grove in the wheel and ring of all rust. It is NOT that difficult. Truck tires are put in cages because they are filled with high pressure. At the 25 or so pounds a DB tire gets you should be OK. Just point it away from you and fill it carefully and slowly making sure the ring is seated the whole way around. Might need a rubber hammer to seat it.
  4. Matt, you may have said before but what color will the fenders be? Black? Or are they wings? Or guards?
  5. OUCH, thumbs are pretty important. Be careful. OH, and the metal work looks great.
  6. It will be a shame to cover up all this fantastic work with paint and interior. You are quite the craftsman.
  7. You are not only looking for 1500 weight you are looking for steam cylinder 1500.
  8. Disc wheels are easy-peasy. You need something to break the bead like a normal wheel. Then take a big screw driver and pop off the snap ring. The tire falls off. Clean ALL the rust out of the groove where the ring fits and reinstall, maybe a wire brush. Turn the ring away from you and fill slowly. No big deal. I just did one Friday.
  9. The DB can take just about anything you give it except going too fast. Drive it like it's an old car, expect issues every once in a while. Two wheel brakes work if you stay in the speed of the vehicle. Carry a few tools just in case. The problem is the idiots that are in a major hurry.
  10. By 1925 , in the US, most DBs were closed cars, sedans and coupes. It would be a good car to use for tours and general use. It would have balloon tires and should ride better then your '16.
  11. I took my truck to a Patriot camp my grandkids were part of. They studied a different war each day and I went to represent WW1.
  12. You did good Wayne. Looks great without white walls.
  13. What if the serial number was D2371XX? Could you tell what year from that? I know where a truck is JUST like the one John started this thread with. I don't know the wheelbase.
  14. COOL, sounds like you have it figured out. Not sure how you changed oil the first time. Did you take the pipe off and pull the screen to wash it? If not I would do that soon. Even if you did I would change soon and look carefully to see what's in the oil, chunks, flakes, etc. hopefully nothing but oil.
  15. So if that's a '31 Plymouth and appears to be a new car dealership the truck would be about '29 to '31?? I don't know trucks at all. Thanks for the help.
  16. John, I think I have the other one.
  17. Look at the thread for '24 choke. Look for the scan from the DBC magazine and look at the picture. It says "D adjusting screw". That is the only adjuster other then idle speed. It doesn't look like what you think it should but that is it.
  18. Remove it and fix the vacuum tank.
  19. Since it sat so long it might be good to use a little Marvel Mystery in the gas. 50 is good. There's explanations of the carb in another thread. The dashpot, looks like a mushroom, is known to stick. COULD be the source of being rich. If you didn't get the Book of Information, owner's manual, with it you should get a copy. There is a list of them and edition numbers on the DBC site. You want the one printed right before your car was built to get the most correct info. Some years have 4 or 5 different manuals as DB did not have year end changes. You can either look for an original manual or get a copy from AACA library for a few dollars. They will need the edition number to copy.
  20. That serial number says mid July 1925, which would make it a '26 series. The engine number should be about 50,000 less then the serial number. There is also a number stamped on the right half of the firewall. It is the body number which usually means the sequential number of that body style. It would be like the 199 station wagon built that year? Touring cars start with T, sedans with S, roadsters with R. I forget what the station wagons have, if anything. Let us know. It is pressure feed mains and dipper rods for the oil. Getting them running is the most fun! Be cautious. If you manually fill the vacuum tank it should run for quite a while.
  21. I doubt 20 lbs. of oil pressure. Most four cylinder DBs are lucky to have about 3 or 4. Not sure where you found the car but if NY or Ohio I scanned a bunch of new car invoices and orders and they are posted on the DB club site. The sales contracts are from close to NYC. The orders are from Ohio. MIGHT get lucky and find the serial number and original owner. In the NY batch there are lots of station wagons, which is what this is called.
  22. When you say " boiled out", exactly how did they do it? That is a lot of crude for being done the right way and rinsed out. I think I would empty the tank and use a hi pressure washer to clean it again. You can take the drain plug out and catch the junk in a cloth in a funnel to see what is in there.