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Everything posted by nearchoclatetown

  1. Not a real big deal. Wrap tape around your needle nosed pliers so it doesn't ruin the threads. Hold the piece with the pliers and use your wrench to start the point in the thread. My hands are big and arthritic and I can do it. Patience!
  2. DB26, I THINK this the result of ethanol gas separating. When left set the ethanol separates and attracts water. To test it buy some new gas place in an open container and let set on a rainy high humidity day. It will separate in to two distinct colors, one being gas the other ethanol and water.
  3. And Matthew, you also have threads asking for help because your car doesn't run right. Never mind.
  4. Racing fuel of 104 octane is very unnecessary with a compression ratio as low as DBs have. It takes more energy to ignite and burns much hotter and costs a lot more. Stick to basics.
  5. I would drive it, get it good and warm. Try some fresh gas as soon as practical. All the carbs are basically the same except for the very first ones for '14 and early '15. Your float top should have a stamped cover, not cast but they both function the same.
  6. How long ago did you have it apart? My truck ran on Tuesday to go to and from the gas station. By the next Monday the dashpot was seized and it didn't run. Ethanol SUCKS.
  7. DB26, the compression is good. What kind of gas do you have in it? ethanol? how old? I had trouble with one of my cars similar to yours. I had ethanol in it and the dashpot froze. That is the cylinder that goes up and down to allow more gas in when you rev it up. When I took the carb apart there was no grit or crud. It was just frozen in place. It has to move very smoothly to work right. I no longer use ethanol.
  8. I don't think Dodge Brothers ever used Jaxon rims.
  9. Another way to test it is to feel the vacuum tube while it is running rough. If it is cold it is sucking gas.
  10. I know it says it is, but that is not a '15 DB.
  11. Are you POSITIVE it's gas? There is no way fuel can go uphill to get there from the carb without engine vacuum. This may be the source of the leak from the coolant drain?
  12. Sorry to mislead on the first year sedan. I do know you won't see many. I also think the outside door handle being added half way through the year was for touring cars as a sedan has to have an outside handle in order to get in. When you go to look at it take a good look at how the widows go up and down. It is pretty ingenious how they lock into place.
  13. First year of the true four door sedan. I only know of a few.
  14. Great idea Matt, your work impresses me. I have not seen that done before. I am thinking I might make one with urethane casters. I have some dings in a factory painted door to take out.
  15. The four passenger coupe body was built by Fisher, carries a Fisher Body tag on lower right cowl area. There's about 25 of these known including the one advertised in the DBC news the last few months which is a '25. The centerdoor sedan body was stamped by Budd, we have factory pictures of the parts in Budd factory. But apparently the wood and assembly was done at DB because it carries a Body by DB emblem on the lower right cowl. The main part of the body that is below the rear window and wraps around to the doors was cut out with tin snips. You can see the shear marks on the edges. We know o
  16. Actually, DB started building wood bodied cars in late 1917. The first bodies were all steel and built by Budd but the very first body built by DB was the centerdoor sedan which is a steel over wood body just like a Chevrolet. I have one. They also built the four passenger coupe in '24 which was a wood bodied car, have one of those too. They advertised the crap out of how superior all steel was but didn't follow their own rule.
  17. Which 1929 engine are you looking for and what is the project?
  18. Matt, very impressive work. And you could not find a better car to compare to then Bill/Dale's car. Or is it Dale/Bill's car? Ask Dale what happens when he gets caught {by Bill} driving his car in the rain.
  19. This is a loaded question kind of like what kind of oil should I use. What are your options? Take the two nuts off and it MAY leak or not. I'd be more worried that the stud comes out of the block or breaks off. You won't find out until you try something.
  20. My totally unrestored '15 is as I remembered, NOT saying it's right. The wire comes out just below the hinge from the door panel and is exposed to under the dash. BTW, not picking but '15's don't have door pockets on the front doors. I just looked in the '15 Book of Information and that is the way it shows the wire on page 24.
  21. Mike, it looks like there is a bare wire where it comes out of the door panel against the hinge. That is the correct routing from the button behind the panel and coming out at the hinge. But I don't think it goes back into the cowl area at the front of the hinge. I will look tomorrow. I THINK the wire is exposed from the door panel up under the dash. The wires get twisted together to keep them tidy.
  22. Seniors are too new for me to know much about. But in scanning I do remember notices about connecting rods and clutches. I hope you find something there on heads. That is about the only literature the club has on Seniors. Dick Perry may have some info on them, he is on this site.
  23. Ron, there is a lot of info in the dealer papers I scanned and have posted on the DBC website on Senior problems. I do not specifically remember anything on heads but do remember lots of engine parts were changed. Have you looked through those yet?
  24. Yes, you can use it. If you want a drain use a T plus your fittings. Some of the six cylinder tanks are larger but other then that I know of no difference.
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