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RichBad

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Everything posted by RichBad

  1. Made a brass plug and seems to work great now. Sod’s law says Bob found the part and posted it already;)
  2. Not sure about this model but on mine, the main shaft is held in with a collar that is inserted over the shaft from the Speedo cable end. I removed using a small pin punch tapping in the centre of the shaft whilst holding the body. You would probably want to free up your shaft first though.
  3. Wry similar to the series 128/129 but that mounting bracket on the front end is different. The 128/129s bolt straight through the guard to the running board.
  4. Ok, sometimes when the pot metal moves, the two support arms can move apart and the pin comes out of engagement. You could potentially do a band aid by gluing it to stop the disc spinning. Would be hard to take apart but if your pot metal is bad you probably wouldn’t want to anyway. It’s not too hard to replace the pot metal with a replacement body.
  5. Is it the main odometer numbers that are all moving together or the trip meter numbers (on the right)? The ones on the left have a pin on the brass end plate that engages in a slot in the housing - if that’s missing or not engaged the whole lot will turn together. The ones on the right are linked to a thin metal plate which engages in a small square hole in the body - that’s less likely to be the issue. Also, the trip reset mechanism can allow all the trip numbers to rotate together if not set correctly.
  6. Thanks Bob- little brass plug would help me out if you have one of them.
  7. Hi all, I’m in the middle or repairing/rebuilding my Speedo (the pot metal body needed replacing) and think I’m missing a part - hoping someone knows what I’m missing. the shaft with the worm gear that drives the odometer doesn’t seem to have anything that holds it in place and therefore seems to push out when the Speedo operates. Should their be something that holds it in the shaft (like a brass plug)? This is it stripped: This is the shaft that I think should have something to hold it in: should there be a plug in this hole to hold it in?
  8. Had a Speedo cable made locally, gave them the length and the ends and they did a great job. I was worried it may look a bit modern with plastic covering, yellow zinc etc (as that’s what they mainly do) but it came up great, very close to original I think (although didn’t have one to copy).
  9. Good news, just don’t let a hoon use it again:). Hope you’re on the mend too.
  10. Cracking progress last week by Trevor, John and Lindsay - shouldn’t be too long before we had her up and crank her over (petrol tank is cleaned and ready for juice). New radiator hoses fitted with a removable filter in the top hose. Dash all fitted and wired up and modern temp gauge added for safety (as a club car various people could be driving her so don’t want to leave anything to chance). Door catches and latches fitted to all four doors (thanks for plating Matt). New front seat wood base made. Seat spring frames cleaned up and painted. New bumpers and custom mounts made and trial fitted. They have come up really well. They have been made from stainless steel and will be polished - that will look very close to nickel and any scratches and scrapes can easily be polished out.
  11. I remember that stuff. I put some in a container, went to put some gloves in and by the time I came back it had eaten through the bottom of the container! Stung worse than a bee if you got a splash on your skin.
  12. I’m still crying too! Time to buy a lottery ticket as you’ve had more than your share of bad luck and must be due some good luck. when you repair it I think you need to stick one of these on the back…
  13. Bit more done and another question… Spare wheel carrier back on. Front seat back nailed in place. How does the front seat back spring frame attach? Does it just attach to the top wood and hang down against the metal back frame or should there be some vertical wood strips for attachment? Also, there aren’t any attachment points on the spring frame - would they just attach with a metal p clip?
  14. I think they can acid etch them too, don’t know exactly how but think they use a negative sticker and let the acid eat away the rest? Not sure if anyone who does it here though.
  15. Interesting, thanks! Yes, would be cool to get a Canada Cycle one made for our Vic Dodges:). My dash has two holes so I think it would be the oval type badge. Did you have any holes in your dash Matt?
  16. Here's one from another 1928 - I think is says Sole Agents Waymouth Motor Company Limited Waymouth Street Adelaide
  17. Thanks Bob. What about at the top where the tabs/screws hold the dash to the wood - does that have a piece of trim over it?
  18. Started re-fitting the wiring. Dash light works:) Steering back in. Don’t forget to loosen the steering box to chassis bolts when re-fitting the column to the dash to make sure everything moves freely. Also refitted windscreen. Front floor fitted. Much easier to connect up the wires to the starter switch before re-fitting the floor. Fitting front seat support. Rear floor back in
  19. Doors are ready for final prep and paint now so started fitting more parts. Dash going back in Checking the steering, looks good. Question - should there be a trim piece covering this area (over the dash fitting tabs) or is it just open? Front floor going back in Matt made me some panels for the rear tub (under seat) - and added a swage to give them a bit of strength.
  20. Work continuing to progress this week. Matt finished off the paintwork on the bonnet/hood and dashboard and Trevor, John and Lindsay have been busy continuing to put her all back together. Front and rear floor sections final fit and screwed down. Fitted the dash panel and instrument cluster. Ran the HT coil wire from distributor through the firewall and connected to coil. Fitted a top radiator hose. Wired up starter switch, engine now turns over on the starter. Set up the spare tyre carrier. Fitted steering wheel centre controls. Stripped the windscreen pillars for plating and restored the windscreen and rubbers. The glass has the AS/NZS 2080 stamp which indicates it is laminated and has come up very nicely. Made new bumper plates, just need polishing. New bumper has been made from stainless and will be polished.
  21. I made mine, block of rubber from eBay. I’m pretty sure you can get them from Old Era too though. they compress a bit but not so much that the door bangs on the paint.
  22. 4th door done, it’s now a four door again:). Saved the worst till last, this door was harder than the other three together! Back doors have a rubber fitted into cutout in the bottom. Glad I’d seen another car with these as easy to miss and mine didn’t have them before - which would result in the doors bashing the body at the bottom edge.
  23. It was only a temporary fit up
  24. 3 doors done, one more to go love this curve on the old cars
  25. One for the screw police - I’ve even lined them up;)
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