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Everything posted by RichBad

  1. Main rails pretty much done, just need to finish the outer edges to the correct front to back curve. Struggling with the scuttle but thanks to a few folks on here have some dimensions and photos so I know what it should look like. There’s going to be quite a bit of work to get the lines right on the scuttle and the alignment with the bonnet and doors.
  2. It looks like the throttle 'butterfly' valve that locates in a separate housing just above the main brass body of the carb.
  3. With Matt’s great help we made a metal press tool and made a handful of door guides in no time. They came up great. Also, made some progress on the front door stops - put one fold in, then used the shrinker to get the curved shape correct and when done will put in the last fold. Also have a pile of wood and have started on the main rails. lots of progress - thanks for your help Matt!
  4. Yup, think I need a die and may try that rubber method but at 0.040/1mm may be a bit thick for the rubber forming.
  5. Working on a few bits of the body metal that were missing. Made some rear door stops and some new door guides and rubber blocks but the guide contact pieces are being a bit of a challenge. Made one but it hasn’t turned out too well. Are the guide blocks/contacts a standard part used across models or are they unique to the late tourers? 2 old and 2 new door guides New rear door stop The door guide contact blocks and pads. Bottom one is my attempt but not so good and I need another 5!
  6. Skin is off and the wood’s out. Lots to do!
  7. Got all of the wood out now. I think the scuttle wood was original but everything else had been replaced at some stage and the main plinths more recently. Got some correct measurements and my lower plinths are both 1/4 thinner than they should be. Also, the scuttle uprights weren’t even attached to the main plinths! next step to strip/clean up the metal work and buy some wood.
  8. Got the trim out and door panels off -never seen so many staples! Next step to pull the rear tub and scuttle off. Thanks to Jesse J I’ve got some old sketches showing the important dimensions from an original one which will really help trying to sort it out.
  9. Time for an update. Got the car up and running just in time to get a little driving over summer. Now the rain and cold of winter is back I thought I’d make a start on the body. The metal work is in pretty good shape but the wood frame underneath isn’t so nice! One last pic before she comes apart... Started stripping the trim and panels - someone liked using their staple gun! Wood work is complete but I think most has been replaced at some stage and not done very well. Uprights were not even jointed to the main rails!
  10. Ok, checked my case and couldn’t see T141 or anything similar. Couple of numbers but probably casting numbers?
  11. I can have a look tonight - where would it be stamped? Some photos are available here (but I couldn't see a stamping)
  12. I don’t think it’s any help but just in case this is what’s in the series 128/129 parts book:
  13. Did it get harder to turn the shaft when you tightened the nut? It should do as it’s compressing the seal more against the shaft. I think when I did mine I over tightened it (to the point it was to hard to turn the shaft) then backed off and then tightened slowly to the point that it was still easy for the shaft to turn (spring could close it).
  14. I put new packing in mine and it hasn’t leaked a drop. If it is leaking you should just be able to tighten the nut slightly and if that doesn’t work perhaps you have some wear on the shaft?
  15. Just seen that - will drop them a line. Boy those Ford guys have it easy!
  16. Thanks - Mine is definitely an Australian Body not a Budd and from what Bob told me it’s almost definitely a Holden Body.
  17. Thanks Matt, I hadn’t seen that so helps to give me an idea of what’s under the skin. I think the later ones may be a bit different or perhaps the differences are more between the different builders.
  18. Anyone have some photos of the door pillars - in particular the strips that the doors close against - for a 1927/28 tourer?
  19. Beautiful work, well done! did you also make your own dissy body?
  20. Must be why they changed with the later diffs - mine has a pinch bolt in the case that you can loosen then it’s easy to turn the pinion assembly then just tighten when in the correct position.
  21. I’ve got some thread files if they are any help? lots of bearings aren’t there! I think most of mine weren’t too bad except for the rear outer bearings. They were crazy! I think it’s because of the taper bore. they’ll be good for another 90 years!
  22. Few more details of my rebuild here - this had the multiple iterations I went through trying to get the gears meshing correctly - didn't give a typical pattern as they were quite worn.
  23. Only due to another expert (Bob)
  24. Lucky I added a breather then:)
  25. Pictures of my rebuild here - few notes but if you talk to Bob should be all good first important step I remember was getting the pinion and diff carrier pre load set on the bearings. Next step was setting the gear mesh correctly which was a combination of pinion in/out adjustment and carrier left/right adjustment - bluing the gears each time (this step took me ages). Then the last adjustment was done after installing diff in axle to set the play/clearance between the two half shafts. i changed my seals to modern ones at the same time - probably not necessary but means I don’t have to think about them again.