• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RichBad

  1. Time for a bit of an update - I thought with the whole working from home thing I may get a bit more time in the garage - but couldn’t be more wrong! Anyway, had a couple of weekends to make some progress in the body. Mostly sorting the rear tub. O/S front lower tub section had been repaired before and was a mess so had to make a new piece. N/S was worse Rear guard mounting nuts were welded on but managed to get hold of some correct captive nuts so decided to put them back to original. Needed a bit of patching up of the metal work. Cleaning up the woodwork and putting in the proper screws. Strips for attaching trim
  2. That’s a bit strange - I wonder if the mounting between them and the diff was offcentre and they were matched to the diff? I wouldn’t have thought so though. Does it feel good - did the end play come up ok? looks real good and I’m envious of the hydraulic brakes:)
  3. Actually I used a 4mm hole (to allow a small tube to be soldered inside if needed).
  4. I just added a 1/8 hole to one of the rear cover bolts - top right (viewed from rear) I think. That’s what Bob recommended - I thought it may get a little oil seepage and if it did I was going to add a tube but hasn’t seen a drop
  5. I don’t think there’s a direct modern replacement to the original felt inner seals (two felt seals inside pressed steel housings). I turned up a couple of adaptors in aluminium which sit inside the original steel housings but take a modern neoprene seal. I can’t find the seal part numbers but according to my notes they were 1.43 x 2.06 x 0.31. as Matt said, the outer seals also need the housing (and hub) to be machined if you want to use modern seals - mine were 1.975 x 3 x 0.375. if you do go with modern inner seals you probably need to add a breather. cheers
  6. Looks good Matt! When I got my springs done the guy said not to grease them - he said it takes away all the natural friction (which works a bit like a damper) and can also result in them being stressed at certain points. Not sure how true that is as I’ve seen springs greased but perhaps it depends if they were designed for it or not?
  7. One thing worth checking is the valve clearances. Someone who knows far better than me mentioned that on the fours, if they are too tight it can give symptoms similar to fuel starvation particularly when hot/under load. He mentioned that modern fuels can exacerbate this as the exhaust valves get hotter and can close up the clearance if too small. not sure if it is the same for the sixes?
  8. Been there done that - not much fun (with a 129 too). 128/129 chassis will be the same at the front across the different body types but I don’t think there are too many around. I think the dumb irons may be similar with the standard 6 but that’s probably it.
  9. Great! I think you need a little Pre-load on the pinion bearings. I’m not sure how that is set on your version - on mine it was a case of take up the slack and then one extra flat on the nut. Perhaps just a case of one or two of the “notches”? I’m sure someone on here would know.
  10. Crikey, that’s nuts - you can get it for ~20 here. Still expensive but it is good stuff:) permatex is good too.
  11. If you want to be confident of having no leak then some sealant is the best bet (regardless of technicalities). I’ve always used hylomar, if you want it to be an even coating they do a spray on version. If it works for Rolls-Royce on jet engines I’m sure it can work for Dodge:)
  12. That’s fantastic - many thanks Tony!
  13. That looks awesome! Would be great if you could add some drawings as that looks far easier than using a conventional rim tool!
  14. Looks great mate, especially with those rivets. Nice one!
  15. Not sure if it helps but when I cut some rubber bump stops for my car I found that they sanded a little better when cold - so stuck them in the freezer overnight. Helped a little.
  16. Awesome, looks impressive. Will be a good workout to:)
  17. Never tried it, good practice suggests it’s not good though. That said, I think the heads are pretty sturdy and if it’s not been apart for a long time it’s likely that it’s pretty much locked in place anyway (rust etc) - I’m sure back in the day they would have been swapped on the side of the road. Another option may be to mount on top of the existing nuts but that would only be possible if there was excess thread on the studs.
  18. Should be fine to use the one with the larger flapper If there is sufficient volume between the inner and outer tanks (you don’t want this emptying before the inner tank has filled). Just make sure the inner tank doesn’t leak and the flapper valve seals (I don’t think the flapper valves ever seal perfectly but should be pretty good). Also, make sure the rod from the bottom of the float still locates in the locating hole in the outlet and can move freely without being too sloppy. You also need to ensure a good seal at the top of the tank. Your inner tank with the large flapper valve has the small lip at the top and only requires a single gasket at the top. Not sure what your smaller tank has but some had a larger flange and a gasket on both sides.
  19. Yes, later ones had two (My 27 does). One was a drain and the other, the fuel feed, was slightly raised in the tank so as to reduce any sediment and water going down the fuel line. They would be interchangeable.
  20. Very sad indeed, he was a wealth of knowledge and always willing to provide help to others
  21. Still lots to do but it’s looking a lot more like a car:). Fitted the front seat base - not sure how the seat backs go though - the rear one should be hinges at the bottom so I guess it just screws to a wood backing panel?
  22. Fitted some more pieces for attaching trim and the front seat support. Strips to locate the rear seat base and attach side trim to.
  23. Adding the trim strips to the inner B pillar. these are used to attach the front seat trim. Seat back lower support - much easier than the top one!
  24. Starting on the last major piece of wood work - the front seat top support. I've been staying away from this as it looks like a big pain - has to match the seat back (which has curves in both directions and folded top edge) and also match both of the B Pillars which angle outwards front to back and bottom to top. Needed to repair the seat back first as the bottom edge was quite rusted. Started out with making the pieces to attach to each of the B pillars. Then made the main rear strip Then cut the ends to match the main cross piece Screwed and glued and sanded to shape Finished - adds quite a bit of strength to the B pillars
  25. Making the wood that goes under the scuttle was a pain - it tucks in behind a lip and curves in every direction as well as having a finger joint mid curve. Gluing the finger joints using the dash support as a template (this also screws to the back of the under scuttle strip. Finished and attached to the dash support panel - old one was in pretty poor shape. Despite being pretty knackered, I think it was the only original piece of wood on the car. Fitted to the scuttle to match to the A pillars and drill the windscreen support bracket holes. Close up showing the A pillar to dash support and scuttle strip - lots of pieces jointed to each other. Bolted up to the windscreen support bracket.