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RichBad

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Everything posted by RichBad

  1. Hi, doing a bit of work on my top on the weekend I remembered @trimacarcomment about needing full tension from the rear bow through to the 2nd bow. On mine I’ve got good tension but currently only have straps between the 4th & 3rd bows and nothing between 3rd and 2nd with the tension being taken up by the “slotted” bar between the 3rd & 2nd bows. I’ve got the 3rd bow pulled fully rearwards so there’s no slack in the slot which is tensioning the 2nd bow (pic below shows what I mean). Is this the right way to do it or should their be slack in the slot and the tension taken fully through the straps? thanks!
  2. Next question:). Is there any specific position for where the support straps should go? The ones that go from the top of the tub up to the rear bow and then from rear bow to 3rd and 2nd? I wanted to get the attachment points fitted to the rear tub and wasn’t sure how far in/out they should be or if it really matters? Ta!
  3. I think people will realise they’ve been missing out and start going with more colourful options:)
  4. Many thanks! I thought I may have number 3 a bit too high. I’ll see if I can get it to go down some more - the radius is pretty close to hitting the irons but I can probably get a bit more. Will lowering number 3 make no. 2 too high - or is that a good thing?
  5. Ok, finally got my bows sorted and fitting them up. I’m trying to get them set correctly before taking to the trimmer and I think I’ve got it about right. I had to remake the rear/main irons and haven’t permanently attached the other irons yet (so can still move them up/down the main iron). Not sure if I’ve got them right - what do you think? I’ve used a sheet to give an idea of how the fabric will sit. Rear is pretty much vertical. 2nd bow is a little higher - if I put a strait edge across it sits about 1” above the 1st & 3rd bows - not sure if that’s too much? The horizontal irons/bars are pretty much parallel with the door tops which I think they should be. Ta!
  6. Great pics Mat and great job with all the organisation - loads of progress!
  7. It’s a Hyatt OR304 & SRA403 dont think finding one one will be easy.
  8. It’s a roller bearing cage - there are two taper roller bearings on the front end of the pinion and this straight roller on the rear. There’s a pic of my parts before assembly in the link below and you can see this bearing
  9. Well organised Matt - keeping that many people busy for the day takes a lot of prep!
  10. Finally decided I was ready to cover up the woodwork….
  11. I think I’ve got a tool I used to make those metal caps that go on the rubbers - probably not as good as what you could do but may be a start - will have a dig around for them
  12. Yea, I retained the original lubrication fittings and even the rope seal - just had the lipped seal as belt and braces. I don’t tighten the gland nut much so would probably leak in it’s own but holds some lubricant and helps the lip seal. I thought modern car pumps have a lip seal - perhaps modern coolant has some additives to help with lubricant? The small shaft size on the dodge probably doesn’t help. cheers, Richard
  13. Is there a reason why the ceramic seals are typically used on the Dodge pump mods rather than a lipped neoprene seal like modern pumps? I used a lipped seal on my pump but it’s a later model and perhaps there isn’t space in the earlier pump housings? I guess the ceramic style ones would also work on a worn shaft as don’t rely so much on the shaft for sealing?
  14. Matt on the go slow = faster than most. Hope you’re feeling better!
  15. That’s a real shame, I must have got in just in time in December. Not many places left that have the equipment, skills and knowledge. You’d think someone would have at least bought up the equipment and stock
  16. Hi Brian, Here's a picture of mine - I machined the housing and also the pinion nut. With the bore machined to take the 85mm OD seal, it was a little under the diameter for the original metal retaining ring (you can just see the lip in the photo)
  17. Both will be fine to use, use whichever one is easiest for you to get.
  18. That’s a great article, thanks. It doesn’t have a huge amount on the positioning of irons/bows other than the importance of correct positioning. With no pattern to work from this is what worries me most as it sets the overall look. The bit on having the top edge just over the top frame and having parallel with the top of the doors is good, that should help get the position of the irons then just need to set the bow heights.
  19. I replaced mine with a modern double lipped seal. From memory i machined the housing to take it but could still fit the original steel retainer so it looks correct.
  20. Thanks:). Yea, see what you mean with the second bow being a little higher. The rear is vertical in both, I was in sure about that too so that’s good. side screens are nice in the first one too.
  21. Any tips on setting up the top bows? I’ve got some old bows to play around with but not sure about the best positioning and order to get it all setup so looks good when fabric is fitted. cheers
  22. Oh jeez, tell me you’re not cutting and lapping that valve with everything else exposed. I don’t think your rings will need extra help bedding in!
  23. Hi all, been a while as I’ve been busy enjoying my Dodge and haven’t done any work on it for a while. Finally decided it’s time to finish it and cover up the wood work - interior trim is now done and am now on to the last job of the roof. I’ve got a set of irons which aren’t perfect but I should be able to repair and adjust to suit but wanted to check for advice on setting the correct position for the irons and bows. I assume the main run of the frame runs parallel to the top of the doors from the front bow rearwards but not sure about the rest. Any tips and tricks? I’ll sort the frame and bows but not brave enough to do the trim myself. Still trying to decide if I go with black or light top but perhaps I’ll go something different :):)
  24. Thanks. I’ve got no problems making custom ones just wanted to get an idea of what they look like. Also wanted to confirm if the number of sockets that I have is correct as I have one at the rear of each door, one in the “B” pillar and one at the front of the tub section. Bob gave me a call today and said the locations I have are correct and he was going to try and find some photos.
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