Mpgp1999

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About Mpgp1999

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/11/1999

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    San Rafael CA

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  1. I was able to find the 2nd edition online for under 35 with shipping.
  2. Octane in the 20s about 45octane? Ron mon or Ron+mon/2. What issues can occur with high octane in a low compression engine. My motor is about 50-55 psi.
  3. I feel that I assembled my transmission incorrectly. When I rebuilt the transmission I replaced the front and rear roller bearings. From what I can recall the shafts were easy to put in and out. The clutch just slid on the flywheel and into the transmission. I don’t recall anything holding it in other that the motor and trans prevent it from moving too much. I forgot to put the springs. It rumbles often when not depressing the clutch. It is very noisy when depressing the clutch. Moving back. I don’t think I filled the universal joint housing with grease. There is a gasket between the transmission and universal joint housing. There is no major oil leaks there. What stops the oil from going down the torque tube?
  4. I had the oil analyzed and found these results. The transmission was rebuilt. The only new parts were the roller bearings. There were lots of non ferrous metals in the oil. It looked like bronze powder.
  5. This is very interesting. What is this book.
  6. Many taxpayers may be overlooking the refund or credit available under IRC § 6421 for federal excise taxes paid for motor fuels and similar state provisions. The taxes are on fuels used to power vehicles and equipment on roads and highways. Taxes paid for fuel to power vehicles and equipment used off-road may qualify for the refund or credit. This includes farm equipment and certain boats, trains and airplanes. https://www.journalofaccountancy.com/issues/2011/mar/20103438.html
  7. For the issue of road taxes. Couldn’t I keep track of the non taxed fuel that I used and pay the taxes at the end of the year. Is there any lawyers out there? I don’t see kerosene for sale with road taxes avgas is taxed federally and by california. I should not have any legal issues when using it on the road To my knowledge clear kerosene is taxed and dyed is not.
  8. I recently rebuilt my vacuum tank and now the fuel evaporated from the carb and vacuum tank in a day or so. In the past I have gone a month or two and there would still be some gas in the vacuum tank. The connections are tight and I see no signs of leaking fuel. Thats why I have a can of fuel to prime the carb. That extra fuel is avgas. The tank currently has 91 maybe with some marvel mystery oil. Since I am next to an airport I just walk over there with a jerry can and fill it at 4.75. For 100ll
  9. My car is original 12v. Made December of 25. As for the octane I have heard of people using kerosene 1:4 or diesel.
  10. My oil pan is leaking like a siv it has new felt gaskets it leaks from one of the oil pump bolts. And along the pan edge where it meets the block.
  11. I have access to 100ll leaded gasoline for my dodge. Besides that it costs less then premium gasoline. It cost 4.75 San Francisco Bay Area. Is there any benefits in regards with storage and lubricity.
  12. I am sure many of you out there have had some trouble with the taillight on your Dodge. For me I have a problem with the brake light and the tail light. Originally the brake light was functioning as it should. The issue with the brake light was the spring in the pin was nonexistent somebody had cut or broke part of it off. I have put a small peice of tin foil in the inside of the hole to make a connection to the bulb. That worked for a year or so. The light became so finicky and unreliable it was time to do something. I had cleaned out the inside of the pin socket. I made pin with a round head out of copper to fit in the hole. I then attached a door lock spring in the hole and now it works like new. Above I am speaking about the taillight (bottom bulb)⬆️ Below I am speaking about the brake light (top bulb with the STOP)⬇️ All the moving caused the brake light ground out. The rivet was grounding to the taillight housing. I ground out the rivet and I am going to replace it with a #5-44 screw. The rivet was .136 I am using a #35 drill bit in some new insulation. I am making a grommet 5/16 diameter with a .1100 size hole. This will recess nicely In the back of the bulb assembly. The copper anode in the second picture is - hot. The taillight housing is + ground. I will insulate the copper anode that connects to the bulb. The old insulation disintegrated and caused the short. I will then paint the surfaces to avoid rust and make them look once. Once this is done it should last another century. I hope this helps everybody. By the way I have a spare working taillight if needed I picked it up at a swap meet for 200. I hope this helps.
  13. The book says to use graphite and pry the leaves apart?
  14. The inside of transmission housing is painted. I want to flush the old gear oil and metal dirt etc... what should I use? The same for the differential.
  15. if I am unable to easily obtain some screws I might take you up on your offer.