Mike "Hubbie" Stearns

Well, after a week of work and time running the lathe, I finally was able to pull number one sleeve. I can definitely say that this engine has been rebuilt before. The sleeves have no flange on top. It took about 30 minutes to pull the sleeve. The sleeve is .095 thick and an od of 3.376. None of my books show what the sleeve bore should be. If it has .090 sleeves, and the bore is 3.187, then the sleeves should be 3.367. I mic the sleeve I removed at 3.376. I don’t know if my calculations are correct so chime in if you can. Mike

I bought her some parts for her tractor I’m restoring. She will like the seat cover as well as the new steering wheel. The bling items will look good as well. Mike

I have used carriage bolts, but only grade 5. There’s several sites on line that have them. Mike

When I was on the fire department and we had a fire run, I would usually run the pumper. I have had 6 different chiefs in the 30+ years on the department. 5 of them told me that if I were on seen, I was to be at the pumper. They all asked how I could run it so well. I would reply by saying they are my mistresses and you need to treat them as such. You need to caress them and they won’t let us down. I’m no longer on the department, but still see my mistresses at least once a year and have introduced them to the newest mistress. I believe that talking to them helps both of us. They know we care and they will talk back in their own language. You just have to listen. Mike

Love your progress. Mike

Now to get it running. Mike

Well after a day of doing not much, other than eating, visiting with my daughters and tv watching, I took the rear tires up to my son in laws work. They removed the fluid and replaced the tube on one. The other is getting the same thing, but a new rim also. I did bring the one home and mounted it. I moved it so I could get it under the gantry. I then removed the front axle and then the engine. I pulled the head just to see what the cylinders looked like. Two look good and two not so good. It will be getting new sleeves. Not too bad for an afternoons worth of work. I’ll be moving the engine up to my garage tomorrow for the rebuild. Mike

Yes she is. 34 years now. Mike

What year is it? Ours is a 1950 8N. Mike

My garage and barn have just toooo much stuff. Currently I’m housing one car, suv, pickup, company van, two fire trucks, lawn equipment, a tractor, and a boat. As well as all the tools. Not much room left. Mike

Since the fire truck is almost done, my wife wants her tractor redone. An engine rebuild, fluid changes, lots of new gaskets, a brake job, and a paint job are on the list. Mike

Yes. That’s how my dad taught me. We didn’t have an engine stand. It’s how he learned it. Mike

Yes you can. I use a flywheel turner. Mike

May I make a suggestion. Once the mains and flywheel are installed, install 4 bolts where the bell housing goes. Then stand the engine up on the bolts. You can adjust as needed so it doesn’t rock. This way you have total access to the entire engine minus the area next to the floor. You’ll be able to turn the crank as you install the pistons. As well as preset the valves and timing. Mike

Mine is a 29 Boyer fire truck. It likes 35 mph and has rear brakes only. Not fun in tight quarters. Doesn’t turn sharp at all. Has plenty of power. Mike

Your squeezing sound like the belt imo. Mike

I have an IH operators manual for trucks. Check the pic for models. Price is $35 plus shipping. Mike

Check the picture for models covered. Price is $35 plus shipping. Mike

The big question is are the bearing still available? Mike

Ted, it looks awesome! Mike

Google the number. I found them on eBay. Mike

Well today I started asking a bushing to repair my carb. I had a scrap piece of brass off an old valve. I turned it down to .625 OD and .500 ID. I tried to cut the threads on the OD, but my lathe isn’t that good. So I’ll have to use a die. At least I know that I can’t do threads with it. I have ordered a 9/16-24 tap and should be in this next week for the ID. I’ll be finishing it when they come in. Here are some pictures so far. Mike

Looking good. Mike

I did some calculations today. The wall thickness now is .125”. This is at the opening where the threads are almost gone. The size of the brass fitting is 9/16-24. The insert that I found on the corvette site is 5/8-24. That means I would have .083 difference, or wall thickness. So it will work. I think I can make a bushing that is 5/8-24 od and 9/16-24 Id ad long enough to give me a good repair that will last my life time. I can also use some red loctite so it will stay in place. There is suppose to have a brass filter screen on top of the fitting. That is plan A. Plan B is to make a new fitting that is longer than the original, just longer to get into good threads that are left. That is only about a 1/4” longer. The housing opening is about 1 1/2” in depth. I just don’t know what the wall thickness is that far in. The corvette bushing is 1/2” so that may be all I need. I’m still trying to figure it all out. Mike

I thought of that, but I would like a permanent repair. Something that I won’t have to deal with later. Mike