cevensky

Members
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

48 Excellent

About cevensky

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. have you tried California Pontiac Restoration? If this link doesn’t have it (their website admittedly takes getting used to) then just call. They’re super helpful and super nice, even by Southern standards. http://www.pontiacparts.net/Chassis/default.htm call if you don’t see it, they don’t list everything.
  2. Phil, are you operating with no gaskets between the manifolds and between the manifolds and block?
  3. This is the head I got with an engine someone gave me. The head to the engine originally in my 48’ (that I’ve already had cleaned and surfaced, and thus is going back on) has no markings and is not high comp. So your head may not be a replacement, it may just not have come with it. In somewhat related news, I guess I have a high comp head for sale.
  4. Mine and others I’ve seen are stamped “high compression” above the temperature sending unit.
  5. Ah perfect! I get the chance to leave Shreveport for the south every now and then. Good to know there's an experienced hydramatic rebuilder in-state 😂 (only partially a joke!), I've seen some of your other work rebuilding the radio and all that and I'm real impressed. I'll be needing help in the future There's no good reason your manifolds shouldn't seat together with a new gasket between them. I'll be running the same experiment when my 8 is out of the shop in a month or two.
  6. I’m in northwest Louisiana. They’re a spare set off a spare engine, a little rusty and greasy so hard to tell too much about leaks.
  7. Well... I can’t recall if they’re split yet... I can see/try sometime this week. I think they’re off a 51 but the manifolds should interchange at least from the 40s to 54.
  8. Phil, I feel your pain. I was so surprised when none of my studs broke off taking the manifolds off the block. Very solid. But I had to shell out like $85 just to get the manifold-to-manifold bolts removed. If all else fails, I have an extra intake you can just have. Great job on everything by the way, I’ve been following along.
  9. Kib, nice work. I wish I could take it all apart and clean the frame and whatnot, but I don’t want to take forever. Where’d you source that exhaust from? Let me know if you need any engine parts. I have manifolds, carb, distributor, etc. all in pretty good shape.
  10. Kib, according to Bill Hirsch (who I assume has researched it), yes. In addition, I found paint very close to this color while cleaning the trans for paint. I’m unsure if the side cover and oil pan were black, but I liked the look and wanted to be sparing with the expensive enamel. A few things like the oil pan plug will be painted red too, for visibility and aesthetics.
  11. I stopped into the shop to talk about my engine. The parts kit is $1400ish which is good and turns out labor isn’t going to even be half of what I was expecting. He knows I’m a student and is working with me massively on that, but he said they’ll do the rest of the work in winter when his guys aren’t as busy. I can’t complain. Meanwhile, I tried out my new engine enamel and painted the transmission.
  12. I went ahead and have decided on Bill Hirsch’s engine color. But no word from the machine shop yet other than it’s a good block. I’m going to work more on the lucite wings. Remove and sand them with acetone added in the mix? Just a light sand with acetone improved things. Also some masking tape and red and black paint has things looking sharp on the chrome (And a little more engine bay clean up)
  13. In making decisions before I get the engine back, a big one is paint. You’ve already seen the color I painted the head and manifolds and the other engine. Thats duplicolor engine enamel (which I’m a proponent of) Detroit diesel green. Then I did research and people claim the correct 1940-1957 color is a darker blue green and it was that was for 17 years... well, nobody can substantiate that claim and after I ordered that color from Bill Hirsch, I went with my gut and will stick with Detroit diesel. My reason is that on my ‘48 and my free straight 8, I found a color nearly identical under the repaint. On inspecting my Hydramatic, I found a big slop of that paint, which I believe is original, on the torque converter. Here’s my photo evidence. I didn’t want a “best guess” that was unsubstantiated: to the naked eye, the duplicolor is identical to what was originally on both of these.
  14. Most of the wiring has already been spliced poorly, wrapped in duct tape (fire hazard), and.... I already cut it out this morning. For now I’ll be wrapping all the ends in electrical tape and I’ll make a little harness for the essentials so it will start without a hotwire. After the engine and its parts are paid for, then brake cylinders, then a dash/engine harness.
  15. Well I hope the “royal treatment” it’s getting in the hands of professionals won’t be more than a few thousand. But it will be worth it, I’m sure, to have a car I won’t be afraid to really drive around. Tomorrow I’ll get the transmission back and clean it up (with a stuck engine, you can’t get all the bolts off the torque converter to remove the trans, so they had to). I’ll post pictures, I’m changing the engine paint color too to a darker hunter green that apparently is the correct color... but nobody’s really sure..