cevensky

@Sir Gonzo thanks for the kind words. First things first: check that your gauge is accurate-ish. Are you boiling? If not your gauge could be off. Using a laser thermometer can help you discern the temp difference between top and bottom of the radiator (i.e. is it cooling). Make sure everything is clean. Rebuilt doesn’t always mean the water jacket is clean. Similarly, it doesn’t mean your recored rad didn’t get junk run into it. Flush it, see what happens. Water pump rebuilt? Hose not collapsing? My rebuilt water pump in combo with junk in rad and block caused suction and collapse of the bottom hose. Ensure the thermostat works. Timing. Full tune up. Junked up carburetor contributed in my case. Do you have the water jacket distribution tube? I think first place to start is with a good thermometer. See if you have hot spots and if radiator is working.

So fascinated by your amazing acumen for this stuff. At what point can I bring my hydramatic down for rebuild? What are the shop hours??? 😂

The belt is only 3-4 years old. It should tighten well. I will probably have to redo the universal type alternator mount to get proper tension. I have had the replacement windshield for a while… we will see how much longer it takes to go in.

Indeed- appreciate the sharp eyes and concern! The fuel line is to the left of my hand and I bent it to take a course way out toward the fender and far from the engine. Vacuum lines are the only thing close to the manifold. I think the vacuum advance is next in line for a rebuild. Went on a drive to the gym and dinner tonight… it probably happened a good while ago, but my oil downdraft tube is gone! Oops! Guess I’ll need to source a new one. Windshield in this picture is really looking rough.

Happy to have some time to post! Here’s a video of the squeal, and I’ll try to capture one while I’m driving at my top speed. Looking at the picture I posted, there is a fair amount of caked on grease built up by the plug on the fluid torus. I’ll clean that off to see if it improves the vibration. Have a trunk or treat to prepare for on Saturday. Hoping to get new front bearings in prior. Have a windshield to install and I’d like to find a shop to build me a new exhaust system. The ones online are expensive and I’d like to avoid having to clamp a bunch of pieces together. It’s likely way past time to adjust valves, which I’ve never done but am excited to figure out.

It’s been a little while since I’ve posted an update. Still driving every now and then, making little improvements and repairs along the way. Still not the time or money for major things, but they’re coming. After consultation with fellow Pontiac Poster Phil, we decided the mismatched flywheel screws were a source of major harmonic issues that prevented good transmission and engine performance. I replaced all of those transmission to flywheel screws last night and immediately noticed a massive difference in how smoothly the engine ran. The shifting at lower speeds is also more consistent. My main issue was a rhythmic vibration through the front end into the steering wheel at higher speeds and higher RPMs. On the first drive, I’m still topping out at 53 mph but these harmonic vibrations are not as bad as they were. They’re still present but very light. I have to assume it’s something off balance in the drivetrain but all of the bolts I did on the flywheel are now identical… I will start with front wheel bearing replacements next. What do y’all think? a squealing sound comes from the front of the engine when I rev it high.. maybe a water pump bearing? Alternator? Belt? I can’t hear it when I’m driving though… I’ll try to upload the video of the squeal

Under the dash I’m pretty certain there is only the vacuum line to the wipers. And yes, Bloo is correct, heater and blower mechanisms work on an electrical switch and mechanical cables, respectively. I never purchased a manual because things are mostly straightforward and nearly everything I’ve needed I’ve been able to find by Google and in this PDF version of the manual: http://pontiac.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1941/1941 Pontiac Shop Manual/index.html please let me know if you have any other questions or need pictures. Your wiper switch with a rear wiper will certainly differ if it is vacuum as well. Apologies for not seeing this sooner.

Almost exactly a year after my first, one of my classmates came calling when the antique car they hired for their wedding get away was in the shop for engine troubles. Not my pile of junk! Made it the 20 minutes there the morning of, and even in 92°F weather at midnight, made it the 20 minutes back (smoothly) to my house with the bride and groom. And that’s how you pay for a new windshield!

Plenty of nice cruises in the spring, but that time is coming to an end around here with temps already in the upper 90s by 11 AM. I did go on a nice cruise yesterday after graduating medical school, and that felt good. The next five years will be busy, so the cars will likely just receive very very basic maintenance unless I put them in a shop for something during that time. In the future I’ll have an income but for now I’m happy where they’re all at. Useable, but nothing I’m not afraid to store in my open garage!

Phil, what do you normally put in your tank? I always pump the cheapest, but if you notice a difference I’m willing to pay a premium to notice it too! glad to see you back on the road.

@r1lark yes my thoughts as well. The reason I got new springs was because I was driving a few weeks ago and in the middle of an intersection my brakes grabbed all of a sudden at about 15-20 mph. It felt like a rear because I kept going straightish, and I think this is the culprit of that mishap. The drum doesn’t eyeball well (smells worse) and when I grip from the sides and squeeze while putting it on, it slides on a whole lot easier. Also some separation around the outer diameter. I found a drum at O’Reilly’s that is equal in all regards aside from about 1/4” more in outer diameter… may give it a try. Soon I’ll figure out why my E brake isn’t working at the handle..

After some more carburetor woes and a little more fun, I replaced some brake shoes and noticed a rear drum is pretty out of round. That drum heats up far too much so it’s time for a new one… real question is, is it a waste of time to search for one that will fit from autozone, oreilly’s, etc? I feel as though paying Kanter premium for something that likely isn’t an exact match isn’t worth it without taking a drum to one of these places. Thoughts?

Went to clean the plugs today since the carb is clean now- I stopped after three because they were all looking great. Put a little Lucas stop slip in the trans, and I don’t know if it’s a gimmick or not but it drives better now. I let it idle for 20 minutes in the driveway and wow… it’s never sounded so good. So here’s a video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T98LtloO55lc0JmJhkCtZj5FD4Jsjelf/view?usp=drivesdk

After two months of hard work, I got back out to the garage. I cleaned out the carb and that turned out to be my problem that was acting like a vacuum leak. Drove it around today. Temps are 75°F outside now, so I never got close to over heating. I think sooner than later my transmission will have to be built. I fiddled with the throttle-transmission rods with no improvement. It’s rougher than ever (I probably made it worse) and is still giving pops on deceleration. New plugs tomorrow, adjusting float down some in case it’s being starved for gas on decel and the mixture is leaning out too much. Back on the road for longer trips without stranding though, so I can’t complain!

@PhilAndrewsah ok, I knew it was something. Don’t be sad if it works! Im not sure I don’t have a bad vacuum leak, but historically when I have, the idle air screws don’t do jack… right now they certainly do affect the idle (albeit high idle). Next Sunday I’ll be disconnecting the manifold to pump vacuum line and plugging and also plugging the wiper vacuum line at the carb.