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cevensky

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  1. Went to clean the plugs today since the carb is clean now- I stopped after three because they were all looking great. Put a little Lucas stop slip in the trans, and I don’t know if it’s a gimmick or not but it drives better now. I let it idle for 20 minutes in the driveway and wow… it’s never sounded so good. So here’s a video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T98LtloO55lc0JmJhkCtZj5FD4Jsjelf/view?usp=drivesdk
  2. After two months of hard work, I got back out to the garage. I cleaned out the carb and that turned out to be my problem that was acting like a vacuum leak. Drove it around today. Temps are 75°F outside now, so I never got close to over heating. I think sooner than later my transmission will have to be built. I fiddled with the throttle-transmission rods with no improvement. It’s rougher than ever (I probably made it worse) and is still giving pops on deceleration. New plugs tomorrow, adjusting float down some in case it’s being starved for gas on decel and the mixture is leaning out too much. Back on the road for longer trips without stranding though, so I can’t complain!
  3. @PhilAndrewsah ok, I knew it was something. Don’t be sad if it works! Im not sure I don’t have a bad vacuum leak, but historically when I have, the idle air screws don’t do jack… right now they certainly do affect the idle (albeit high idle). Next Sunday I’ll be disconnecting the manifold to pump vacuum line and plugging and also plugging the wiper vacuum line at the carb.
  4. @pontiac1953, I agree. I don't have that, but I have gotten some insight from the on the car adjustment manual and the car's general manual. One issue I'll run into is that I haven't been able to figure a tachometer for this 6v system... what do you use? And of course, I need to get it to run well before I can go adjusting a throttle... so, first things first.
  5. And this is a thread I found from 2017. It prompted my weariness with the metal loom... he was having the exact same symptoms I was (prior to this). My plug wires are new (coil isn't) but that doesn't mean something hasn't happened or there isn't something funny with the loom. @PhilAndrews, you do not run manifold gaskets, or is that something I made up?
  6. @Bloo, when I installed it I did a good cleaning and inspection. Maybe with renewed heating/cooling something’s happened, so it is certainly something I plan to look at when the manifolds come off. Again. Fourth time.
  7. Well, braintrust… don’t quite understand this one. A month ago I was doing 50+ miles in a day on the highway. Could scoot around town for errands pretty good. One day a couple weeks ago I went out to go for an errand, no easy start. Had to adjust the choke and get a bunch of gas in. I left it and took a look later. Manifold stud nuts needed tightening for sure. They shake loose quite a bit after new gaskets. Still kinda crummy, I did new plugs cause I figured it was running a bad mixture as the manifold leaked. Still running like a kitchen sink dispos-all without constant manual choke adjustment. It can high-idle well, but after a block from home with jerking and stumbling, I turned ship quickly. It’s never really gotten that low idle. Hmm. So. I checked points, they were fine. Now. I have a board exam in a week, but after, the manifolds are coming off again. May go back on with no gaskets? Going to check behind valve covers. Compression test (hopefully a still-new engine will pass…). May swap points for pertronix eventually. Removing the metal wire loom from spark wires. Checking spark wires/cutting ends and redoing contacts. Should I pull the head? I had read through some manuals and originally wanted to spend this time adjusting the throttle/transmission linkage. Sad and confused, but not discouraged. She’s taking me on rollercoaster but so goes life with old cars.
  8. Thanks @PhilAndrews, this is a wealth of information and I greatly appreciate it. I think you’re onto something with the rods being set incorrectly. I was careful to keep them in the same place through taking the linkage off and taking the engine and transmission out. Here’s a little peek at how the interior looks. Not professional, not great, but serviceable. I also wanted a trial run of putting headliner material up and tacking and all that.
  9. Transmission feels like the revs almost always go too high for how fast I’m going and the shifting usually has to be achieved by taking my foot off the gas. Then there’s the fact that it doesn’t downshift whatsoever.
  10. @PhilAndrewsyep still on 6, so finding a good tach ain’t the easiest thing. Ideally I would love to just get the transmission rebuilt but I’m not ready to sell a kidney yet…. Not yet.
  11. @PhilAndrewsI set my timing with a light, a little advanced, but have wiggled around since then to see if it helped performance at all. The idle is good and acceleration is typically very smooth and even. The power and torque leave something to be desired and fuel economy isn't the best (but not yet calculated). I'm in the market for a vacuum gauge for sure!
  12. @PhilAndrewsthanks for the info, that's exactly the kind of stuff I need to know. After I got them surfaced, I used the Motorcraft TA31 silicone, which came highly recommended, on either side of the gaskets. It appears to be holding nicely. Plugging at the manifold is on my to-do list, but my fuel pump is also newly rebuilt, so hopefully that isn't the issue. My winter temps (and early spring) are similar to yours, as well as a similarly quick heat up in our current weather. I believe you on the fan and can't see a benefit to a six blade, but my idle temps just don't seem to be the ticket. One thing I did not do, which I should've, is check how accurate the temp sending unit and gauge are at higher temps. Other thoughts are that the engine still has not had many miles since the total overhaul and an oil change is certainly due soon. As far as my speed, I am going to make sure I don't have a fuel restriction (carburetor blockage, float set too high, linkage bent, etc.). I do have a timing light, which I will break out in addition to probably just replacing/rebuilding the vacuum advance. Then I may try my hand at adjusting the bands on the hydramatic... I have a manual but if anyone has tools to loan or tips to share, please do!
  13. Made the trip this morning to a wedding venue south of town about 25 minutes. Temp held about 190°-200° the last half of the trip and my top speed is still 53 no matter how I push it. Gonna rebuild vacuum advance next, but probably needs a little more than that in terms of the transmission. Got kinda hot maneuvering in the parking lot after the drive, but overall I’m proud of how it handled and the drive was scenic and nice. Got the passenger rear fender repaired, put some temporary “chrome” trim on, and got new gravel guards too. I re-covered the seats, put a headliner of sorts in too.
  14. Ok. So after I spent a couple hours flushing the block really well and slapping it all back together, I started it up. It took too much to start, so I went to look in the engine bay. There was water around the plugs from the work I did and it showed bubbles around 5/8 plugs. Tightened them down and bam, quick starts and smooth running. I took the same circuit I did the other day, with considerable improvement on the temp gauge. Holds at 180 till a long light is hit, then it’s hard to get back below 190. I’m gonna call it a day with some antifreeze and setting the timing with a light, the heat here is just unreasonable.
  15. @Bloo, it’s brass and the tube itself is in fantastic shape- you’re right, only one way it can go in. There was quite a bit of crud in it. Also the head was blocked off around the back where the temp sending unit goes in. Petcock on the block didn’t flow either. Quite a bit of crud in the block. Buttoning it all back up now.
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