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About cevensky

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  1. Thanks for the advice, Bloo. I think I’ll go with the brighter bulb. I went with red 1157 LEDs for tail lights because of the safety factor (they’re very bright). Apparently, I can use a regular flasher if I use incandescent or halogen bulbs in the front, but if I use LED (thereby making every bulb in the blinker circuit LED), there’s not enough resistance and an LED flasher must be used, but they can be got in 6V too. Went for a drive today... with headlights! These halogen are much brighter than the picture tells, even 6V. I highly recommend them. Didn’t take long to put them in, original dimmer switch, and a junction block from a Ford GPW.
  2. Jeff, still on 6. Wires from alt and from ammeter back to the starter post are 10 ga. The rest is 12 ga. wires: https://enginebarn.myshopify.com headlights: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233479105111 The tail lights will be LED. There’s great threads in here about using LED but you have to be careful to get it right. Question: for my turn signal, do the headlights get used as the front signal or is it the parking lights?
  3. Turns out I’m missing the lower chrome strip for the front doors. Let me know if anyone’s got some. I got new halogen headlights in (LED taillights and dash lights coming next week) and wired them up with original hardware. Here we are (notice the little bit of fun I had on the door handle/arm rest, don’t worry it’s just some scraps I had):
  4. Good question Jeff, but it’s have to be directed to someone more knowledgeable like Charles. All I can say is there’s little doubt in my mind that these panels were in this car when it left the Fisher factory and I didn’t change the style at all (save for my mistakes!). I’ve seen this seat fabric pattern in the Pontiac ads for 48, but other ads that can be found on google for 48 also show the more plush interior with the squares and a tufted seat back. Would love to hear what the experts have on this.
  5. Well, moving forward I know what to do and what not to do. The nylon Christmas trees worked like a charm (mostly). I’ll have to make the holes that accept them slightly smaller for a tighter fit. This panel is slightly too long, needs more curve where there is corner, isn’t thick enough or lacking support behind the handle bezels, and most obviously, the trim was put on crooked (feel free to laugh, I did). Not bad for a first attempt, 3 hours of my time, and maybe $15 of supplies. The other side will be modeled after this to get a more perfect fit.
  6. Cardinal, that’s kind of what I did... but I didn’t see your advice before I went ahead and made my first panel. I discovered there’s a metal piece on the original door card that I reused that clamps to the card, allows an anchor point for fabric, and then sits in a groove on the door itself. I went with only 5 or 6 Christmas tree fasteners through the new card since that lower piece supports the bottom and the window surround holds it up top so I’m not too worried. I was able to reuse all of the original chrome trim. Really, it’s quite similar to the original card in looks. Just a little more durable and easy to clean. There were a few mishaps, but overall I can’t believe someone wanted to charge me $700 to do the doors, it’s pretty easy. Might see if I can fit it on tomorrow night, it may require some cutting of the top edge. Let me know what y’all think, unfortunately the chocolate brown crocodile didn’t make it here for the lower trim. ALSO: the heater core under the seat puts off quite a bit of heat on my ankles... is there a control for it or is it always on...?
  7. A quick torque sequence and no more visible vapors from anywhere. I’m pretty convinced it won’t overheat in normal weather (stay tuned for a Louisiana summer). I began taking off a door panel, seeing that the nail trim inserts into metal, I’m thinking about using nylon push-in fasteners since I can drill holes and save the headache of lining up another nail strip. Anyone have any experience? The plastic I’m using for panels should be sturdy enough.
  8. That’s a lesson I learned on Model A’s, and I did have a little come out of this one’s overflow the first time starting it after the new water pump. Hasn’t happened since, but when I say I’m missing water, I mean the level drops to just below the baffle so there’s not any visible water. But yes, something that can’t be said enough. I got nervous when I saw coolant leaking after putting on a new water pump!
  9. Gary and others, thanks. I’m glad you all are enjoying seeing it inch back to life. The switch probably needs better grounding, but I got the dash lights to work again in one position of the rheostat. I’m going to order some LEDs for dash and rear lights, halogen for the front. I’ve got about 55 ft of cloth covered wire that will hopefully make it. Good suggestion on the flasher, Gary. I’m enjoying nightly rides, but noticed a little bit (inch or so) of coolant is missing every couple days with drives and after it gets hot, there’s a fair amount of visible exhaust from the blow-by tube and oil tube cap. Friend down the street pointed out I haven’t retorqued the head since rebuild and it’s probably losing through the gasket. So I’m hoping the visible exhaust is the water/coolant getting in there and boiling off. Is it normal to see exhaust out of these places? It’s relatively colorless. I still need to time with a timing light. In June I’m going to go get the rest of the trim and a new trunk door.
  10. Took a drive today to my parents’ for Mother’s Day. About 3 miles there and 3 back plus a little extra cruising. All went pretty much perfectly, although not everyone was impressed. Understandable. Painted the other three rims red and washed her up. Might invest in something to buff the paint that’s on there. I got the starter fixed up. It was hanging on the bolts that fix the flywheel to the fluid converter. Some of em are a little too long (oops that’s my fault). They put a spacer on but it still *just* hits those bolts, bad as it sounds I’ll probably let it wear in, it works good and starts right up. I also let them wire up my turn signal so when I get a 6v flasher (anyone have one?) I’ll get that put in. Did the light switch too, clock works, dash lights worked for a quick minute and now don’t 🤔 Anyway, nothing else is gonna happen for a while but some drives.
  11. Thanks John, today I finally got the float adjusted *just* right and she fired right up and ran good for about 20 minutes. What a difference a day makes! I hooked up the original temp sender and gauge and it reads about 180 after 15 minutes of idle which is not consistent with the direct non-electric gauge I had on there before. I’ll hook that back up to make sure the new pump is working well. With the type of plastic boards you panel a cheap stall shower with, I made carpet panels for the front and popped one on. Drove her down the driveway and backed in the garage, maybe I’ll take a Sunday drive or two during studying for my board exam this month. It all worked out great on timing!
  12. I had a qualifying exam yesterday, so I took the day off from studying. I installed my water pump (cut a nice new gasket) and starter. The starter is gonna have to come off and back to the shop, it sounds like a barrel of rocks. They do great work, it’s just my luck. Also some kind of blockage between or at the needle and the fuel line. I guess the needle is getting stuck, but it was free and dry when I put the carb back together and the needle was down... then no gas got into the carb but the fuel line from the pump had tremendous pressure built up. Weird. Guess a carb take apart tomorrow for the 9th time. I made some more wiring, cleaned up the engine compartment, and moved the coil. Did some bulbs for gauges and clock, and made some knobs today since it would cost me over $60 to get them, and the correct shifter knob isn’t even sold. made out of jb weld. Here’s my process. Slowly but surely that picture of my dashboard gets cleaner and more complete. Too bad the only thing that works is my radio!
  13. Between studying I took my new dash clock (I think it’s out of a 46 or 47, but fits the same, works, and just needed some copper paint. I’ll switch the center plate at some point but couldn’t be beat for $30 to my door) and my new-to-me gas pedal outside for install. No more duct tape! (Well there’s a little on the shifter knob still) I picked up my rebuilt starter and water pump earlier this week, $240 for both. I’m thrilled with that but won’t have time to install them soon. I also got a basically NOS light switch for a few bucks. Moving right along.
  14. Today I took my starter to the old-timey shop downtown. He said he does water pumps, so I came back 30 minutes later. He does great work and said even if a new shaft and bearing can’t be had, he can recondition what we have. Acme said a headliner would be $218, so I may be sold. Did one rim today in gloss cherry red, will have to deflate and get the crumbling fake white walls off.
  15. Thanks Bloo, I've just sent them an email since they don't seem to have anything other than VW headliners on their website. here is the link to the ebay listing I think I'm gonna use. They're close and seems reasonable to get it to my door for $260. (EDIT: just kidding, they don’t have the pattern for my car. C’est la vie.) Also, if Charles happens to read this, Wanda was very nice, but waited to quote me a price on the pump then called back with a price nearly comparable to the very expensive ones on eBay. I may yet have to buy from her, but Feltz of Terrill Machine in DeLeon, TX is very nice and he just texted me that they'll rebuild these for $130.