PhilAndrews

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About PhilAndrews

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  1. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    Next up past this is a bit more expense. 1) Radiator needs repair. Hopefully it just needs a bit of brazing to seal it up, rather than a full recore. 2) I need to replace the generator. I'm going to get an alternator that is built into the original style generator housing. I've run dynamo generators in the past and they work fine but truly they hold nothing against a decent alternator. 3) Tempted to pull the head off and inspect the block and bores for cracks. 4) Gearbox valve block and seal rebuild (reason for engine removal) Then on to steering and brakes and then wiring. Piece by piece! Phil
  2. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    All I need to do is remove the crossbrace (4 sheet metal bolts) and there's a gap the width of the radiator and the highest point is the lip of the front bumper. The entire assembly should come out of there. That and I didn't fancy realigning it all, and I also am doing this by myself so this seems to be the most sane route at this juncture. Phil
  3. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    Propshaft. I've not been up under the car too much so far because of all the damn spiders. If I undo the flange bolts on the diff, drop the prop down will the front end just pull off the splines? Manual doesn't show any retainer on the front. Phil
  4. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    This is where I left off today. Manifolds removed, fuel pump off, throttle and gears disconnected. Next up, disconnect the propshaft, pull the crossbrace off the front, get the cradle undone and start on getting it out of the car. Phil
  5. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    I have a pair like this. 1000lb rated load. Phil
  6. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    They do. I have 2 chains, they have a plate at each end. I was going to cross them over in an X and lift in the center of the X, which would be over cylinder 6 or thereabouts. I'm going to fight it without a load leveler, I've pulled the radiator, I'm going to remove the U channel stiffener, cross brace and front grille so I don't have to lift it up really high (and avoid removing the hood). Phil
  7. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    I bought myself a hydraulic floor crane (1000lb on full extension). I have a couple of engine chains, the type that you attach to bolts. The shop manual states you can lift the engine using the head bolts- I'm going to lift the engine and transmission out together. Whereabouts is the balance point? I'm looking at it and thinking towards the back of the engine? Also are the head bolts long enough to have enough thread with standard engine chains? The plates are about a third of an inch thick. Thanks Phil
  8. PhilAndrews

    Brake Line

    Also thinking about that, you may need to set the pipe up on a ramp with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. With the car jacked up, can you make the brake hose touch the wheel or brake drum? I'm betting mine doesn't, the thing most likely have been fitted with the vehicle jacked up and the wheel off. Phil
  9. PhilAndrews

    Brake Line

    The other side may hold something more interesting, the plate that holds the pipe to the chassis isn't bolted up on mine. I'll measure this line, but even held back like that it's rubbed through to the cords. A number of my previous cars have had sacrificial helical rubber pieces wrapped around the potential rub points. Don't forget also that my suspension is lowered, so the angle of everything will be different to a car at standard ride height. Phil
  10. PhilAndrews

    Brake Line

    It would appear that's a common problem. I'm not sure tying the pipe to the fuel line with zipties is factory standard, either... Brakes were "rebuilt in 2015" Phil
  11. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Engine & Trans removal

    Hmm. Which manual is that? I plan on taking them both out, attached. With the grille and everything off the access if actually pretty good. Phil
  12. Afternoon, all I'm making prep to pull my engine and transmission out- 8 with hydramatic because I need to rebuild the gearbox valve block (plus it leaks like the Exxon Valdez). I'm thinking the easiest method will be to pull them both out as a unit, I'm going to remove the strengthening frame from in front of the radiator and the front grille to give enough room. The radiator is out already. There's a mount at the front (2 bolts that I see), the propshaft, a mount at the rear, the gearshift linkage, throttle linkage, gearbox thrill position linkage, speedometer and the electricals to remove. I've pulled the generator off, I'll take the manifolds off and I was looking to use four of the head bolts as lifting points. Anything I've missed? The service manual helpfully shows a nice sketch of one side of the engine and that's all there is on the topic. Phil
  13. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Inline 14 Amp fuse holders

    Hmm. I do see the markings for "gold" and "gray" fuse holders. I'm guessing they switched out to plastic ones somewhere between 51 and 54- not surprising, plastic components were just beginning to become popular. I'm actually very surprised at the number of thermoplastics and PMMA in use on the car. I was expecting glass in a lot of places (rear lights, dashboard, and so on). It also has the additional benefit of being an insulator and not rusting. Polythene was a wonder material, really compared to PMMA and Bakelite. I'm not surprised GM started using it. Phil
  14. PhilAndrews

    '51 Chieftain - Windshield wipers

    I started to redo the vacuum lines from the manifold to the pump to the wipers. Does anybody have a decent picture of the original pipe routing for the vacuum lines? I found a picture with the fuel line routing so I'm good there but my original vacuum system piping is so hacked up and/or missing I think I'm just going to buy some new metal pipe and start over. Phil
  15. PhilAndrews

    '54 Pontiac windshield washer switch and system

    That does suggest what I had thought- the stem goes down the center and probably forms the valve shuttle itself in the back of the valve block. Phil