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About PhilAndrews

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  1. 4000? I've never had mine above 3000. No idea what the max sustainable RPM is but I'll take reliability and longevity, thanks. --Phil
  2. Thinking on the original complaint, it may just be something as simple as a failing coil; sudden change in timing and combustion pressure may be causing the spark to blow out when pressing the gas to pull away (vacuum advance kicks in when coming off idle). Coupled with heat soak after a long run making it break down and become unreliable. I would say pull a plug and spin it over when you can, take a look at the spark and see if it's a good strong bluish white, if it's bordering on orange, change the coil and try again. If not, try tweak the distributor clockwise a fraction and see if it improves... Phil
  3. Valve clearances are critical on this engine, being as it it's slow and has a large overlap with a relatively soft cam- having them set wrong affects when they open by quite a margin. While not really perceptible at speed, it really makes a difference to low speed running and idle. Phil
  4. It's what was available in my case. But, also my car is running 12V on an alternator too. Electronic doodads really do not like the constant switching of the high-voltage cutout on the regulator for a dynamo; the gradiated electronic regulator of an alternator is mich more smooth despite it being more RF noisy. A looped ferrite core on the output lead helps significantly for that. I know originality etc but heck, alternators are so much better that dynamo generators, particularly on a slow-turning engine. Phil
  5. I agree- I only changed this because the swashplate had been butchered and was loose enough to tilt and cause the points to close up. As you hear, it is actually quite a lively engine for what it is. It'll rev up hard if you ask it to if it is set up right. Are your valve clearances set right? The original valves have a significant coefficient of expansion (which is why I am running stainless valves, they expand much less) and if you have them adjusted tight then they'll not seal and you'll end up with a hot misfire. I found doing them is difficult without a set of go-no-go feelers (available online, Lisle make a nice set). I would definitely get a compression gauge and test both hot and cold compression. Valve job isn't difficult but takes time and is fiddly. I found that to be the most worthwhile rebuild on the engine yet. Phil
  6. That leaves only a few things. Poor mixture (air leak or under-/over-fueling) Poor spark Poor compression Mine would randomly lose compression when hot, but you could hear the valves getting all clicky as they were getting sticky. I also had a new spark plug that was cracked on the nose that was causing intermittent misfire too. Phil
  7. Off load in neutral will it rev like I did mine in that most recent video?
  8. My horn push badge was all faded and horrible from the sun. I pulled it to bits and had a go at restoring it. Plastic is still all crazed but it's a lot better to look at now. Quite happy with that Phil
  9. Wherever you can find them, I think. I got lucky. What gremlins do you have though? Phil
  10. Oooh! Twin points. No wobble. No hesitation, no backfires. Nice. Phil
  11. A new arrival today prompted me to remove my distributor. I stripped it down enough to be able to change out the swashplate for the points. I may have become a little carried away and cleaned the ride and remains of old paint off. Got a coat of new paint on and left it to dry. Refit comes a little later on tonight, hopefully. Phil
  12. As much as it's nice to have a fairly comprehensive set of gauges in the dash, I do like having a couple of attention-getters for important things, particularly as the oil pressure gauge is rather lethargic. So, I fabricated a little under-dash light board that's fairly inconspicuous. Heat stamped the meaning of each light (changed the colors around because the orange is more visible and the oil pressure concerns me much more than the charging system) so that's good for now. Decided to just shotgun the brake cylinders so that's on hold while I save up for the parts, hence doing stuff that costs nothing because I had the parts to hand. Phil
  13. Previous keeper overpacked the hub with grease. A small amount got into the drum and onto the edge of the brake shoes. Thoroughly degreased the hub and drum, rubbed the outside down and gave it a coat of paint. Shoes next up to be thoroughly cleaned. Phil
  14. Not a great deal to report right now, but I'm going to see about sending the wiper motor off for rebuild. Front driver's side brake adjuster locknut cane off without too much of a fight. Cleaned it up. ...and painted it black. Drum off next, bearings will get a clean and fresh grease, I will free up and lubricate the lower adjuster then reassemble it all and set the brakes. Phil
  15. I do rather enjoy looking at the gauges. I ran the car up to warm and the temperature gauge was pointing to about 210- I got worried and checked the temperature of the head, thermostat housing, radiator with my handheld infrared thermometer, the hottest part was the thermostat housing at 175F, the temperature sender was about 165. I then remembered I calibrated the gauge at 12.0 Volts- with the engine running a stable 14.4 was making it over read and with the engine off it was reading somewhere correct, so I think it has a voltage regulator in it's future to be useful. Other than that I'm fighting with the vacuum system for the wipers and particularly the screenwash bottle, which refuses to pump given the volume flow through the wiper motor valve. Phil