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About PhilAndrews

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  1. When it quits giving drive, if you engage reverse does it lock up the transmission as if you had parked up with it switched off? Is the oil level too high? When it's hot it may be getting caught up in the drums and getting whipped to a froth and your losing oil pressure as a result.. pull the dipstick when it stops and look too see if the oil is all bubbles. Phil
  2. Old bearings removed. Everything cleaned up, new seals put in. Awaiting new bearings and a broken spring washer that I missed. Phil
  3. I built special tool J-4670 out of bolts and plywood. General Motors engineers look away now. With the spring clip removed, application of some compressed air saw the piston removed. So far the reverse gear assembly is the only part that's not been full of swarf. Rebuild parts ordered. Hopefully should be in mid-way through next week. Phil
  4. That'll be the source of the melted metal globules in the oil pan, then. Phil
  5. Rear servo time! Careful use of clamps and muscle and a bit of rude language saw it all in pieces. I think there are more springs than any other part inside. It also contained enough metal chips and swarf that, if collected, could have made a 1:32 scale model of the gearbox. All pistons realigned, rings seated, springs compressed and bolts torqued down. I like this piece. None of it was broken. It was just dirty. Phil
  6. Transmission place says Dexron-III for the oil. They've been having people use it with no ill effects. --Phil
  7. I had not been able to remove the large plug on the front servo. With my new screwdriver, that changed. This is a good representation of the muck and metal chips I've cleaned from the hydraulics. The 4-3 valve was stuck solid, took a good 5 minutes of thumping the case against the bench, wiggling the valve and swearing to get it out. It now slides smoothly in the bore. One down, rear servo and reverse mechanism to go. I think I may epoxy a strong magnet to the underside of the lower pan to magnetize through the pan and attempt to collect up any remaining metal chips, too. Phil
  8. Freed up the overpressure relief valve in the pump and reassembled it with two screws for now. Installed two new rings on the pump nose, where the fluid torus case sits. Then, using the old seal as a mandrel and as block of wood I knocked the new seal in place. Special tool not available so that worked nicely. I like this because this is where it was leaking very badly from before. The old seal was totally unserviceable. Phil
  9. This took three hours to get apart because someone decided slotted head screws were good to hold it together. Not so. Root cause failure: front band servo spring fractured. Phil
  10. Looking at it, I didn't trace the passages but the big weight A on the governor.. I'm guessing that engages the reverse lock out at low speed, and the smaller B brings the pressure up to change the gears? Phil
  11. Thorough cleaning has seen the valve block totally back within spec. This I am happy about because I was concerned I would need to try find a new one. Plus, the thrust washers arrived in the mail today, that was quick. Phil
  12. The valve block isn't so good. The governor plugs do move a little in their range but bind up badly before coming out. The shifter valves are so-so, 1-2 is ok despite having been full of black gunk but 2-3 and 3-4 are sticky. I need to inspect with an eyeglass and bright light the bores and valves. Phil
  13. Cleaned out the governor. The B weight would get a little sticky in the bottom of the bore; a thorough cleaning has resolved that and now sees both weights falling freely under their own weight when the governor shaft is rotated. That'll certainly have been a not-changing-gear issue. Phil
  14. I just stopped at AutoZone and they've changed up the transmission fluid they stock. Up until 2 weeks ago, they stocked Dexron-IIe. Now, they've rearranged everything and the oldest type oil they keep is Dexron-III compatible "universal" oil. That made me think. Possibly the wrong oil had been put in, because the seals are rock hard and split like so much cheap plastic, and the only bearings that are bad are the phosphor bronze ones in the hubs. That would explain why it wore to such extremes. Phil
  15. I used to drive my Hillman by ear- clutchless changes. I was taught mechanical sympathy by my father, so I hear you. I just know that the car is gonna be driven by other people and not everybody has such a good grasp of the concept. I've just booked myself a week off work, hopefully get everything buttoned up and get the car rolling again. --Phil