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Everything posted by cevensky

  1. It very well could be a metering today adjustment. It’s hard to get the idle down when the engine is cold.
  2. Rebuild was complete. Everything in there is new. Currently running rotella T5 15w-40.
  3. I think I'm decided on an oil change for now. There's definitely gas in the oil and it's about time for a post-rebuild change. I can clean the new plugs again and see where we're at after. A new condenser in the distributor and a drive shaft/engine mount tightening would be good too. There's a car show down the street next Sunday, I may hit that up.
  4. I changed out all my spark plugs. They needed it. However, I think we’re getting fouled up still. Those are the plugs I’ve been using since rebuild through trying get the timing right, adjust the carb, when I had the wrong distributor on etc... I’m wondering if the carbon didn’t build up on valves too. It stumbles when I try to accelerate quickly from idle, but drives great. No overheating. The only other thing I can think of is a leak at the manifolds or a faulty vacuum advance. The timing is right. Would it be worth it to take the head off and get a new gasket just to clean the ca
  5. Went ahead and painted the new to me trunk lid today. Unfortunately a lot of the clips that hold the trim down broke but two are enough for now, I’ll probably take it off eventually to do a some filler in the places where it needs it. Overall much better, but I’ll also need a new trunk handle, the rest of the mechanism is ok but my handle is just trash. Also got the trim painted, looks really sharp. I also banged out the really deep rear fender dent and painted it, although it will also need some filler. Waiting on some better weather to finish the brake lights and turn signals. I r
  6. Thanks for the understanding Jeff, it’s mostly out of self interest because I’d love to see another thread where you can post each and every update on another 48 Streamliner! If you need help starting a thread, send me a message. Making paint progress when I have free weekend days without call at the hospital. I think I’ll try a spray of the clear coat I used back when on my dash project. Next up is getting the new trunk lid I got a while back sanded and painted. It should turn out nicely. Compare this picture to the first picture I took of the hood after paint a few posts back.
  7. Hey Jeff- I think you might be better served to start your own thread for your project. It would make it easier for us to follow your project and for others to provide you with the help you need without getting our cars mixed up! good looking paint, wish I had the space and cash to do that after proper body work!
  8. Thanks lark, just having some fun and I do like “re$toration.” I’ll be using that. The paint keeps getting better and better with more sanding and more coats. It’s hard to get a perfect finish on dented upright panels with cracked paint, a rattle can, and all the bugs and leaves Louisiana has flying around. Getting there though. The new distributor went on the other day and it runs totally differently... oops! But now I can see timing marks! Honestly, the previous distributor kind of “hopped up” the engine, but it does run a little smoother and no popping now. I still can’t adjust the id
  9. Haha thanks Ben, it’s $6 a can with tax. Each can covers pretty well and it dries well even if you don’t do thin coats, hard enough to sand after a few days in this humid climate. Rustoleum automotive enamel. It comes in red, white, black, and clear. I’m pleasantly surprised. I tried a spray lacquer by rustoleum and was not impressed. Enamel is the way.
  10. Hmm the camera makes it look much better than it does in person. This is just one coat over most of the car. It needs a good bit more and a lot of sanding, the roof has considerable dents and waves from hail and branches but the overall impression is much better now that there’s paint on the roof! Made me feel much better, $6 paint ain't bad!
  11. Steve, clubs with respect for restoration are non-existent here and I find national clubs to be a waste of money for someone who has no income. Large meets are always too far and the knowledge that is the biggest benefit of a club I can get from (1) the internet, which I know how to use well, and (2) all of the older "car guys" I hang out with in my neck of the woods. It's my own club. I have several finished or in-progress-but-driving (+/-) restorations and projects on the road, so it's not about satisfaction or confidence, it's about feasibility. There is simply nobody in this area who
  12. Greg, that’s a defeatist attitude that doesn’t have much of a place in any garage I work in. It’s not gonna be a concours car. Too far gone, probably never will be. What will probably happen is me putting angled metal in to reinforce the body, making changes to make things like up and close/open properly. I think your level of fear and over-complication is much much higher than my naïveté or over-simplification. At the end of the day, giving in or being too afraid to even try covers less ground than even an honest effort fraught with mistakes. Food for thought: 3/4 doors closed and ope
  13. Hope I’ll have a second this weekend to pop it on. Everything should be set right, will probably have to retime the engine a bit. In the manual, it has specific instructions per the wiring diagram as to the orientation of the distributor (shows where points vs condenser should be in relation to engine) and also where the #1 cap position should be... does this matter? (also if anyone needs a functional post-48 distributor, I guess I have one for sale).
  14. Gary, he never returned a text or call. I did everything short of banging down his door but that was two years ago now. I suppose I’ll have to learn how to do it myself. The wood is just so daunting, partly due to cost and partly to size. It’s not monstrously expensive, but it’s the unknown: other cars I can get an idea of what I need to spend because what I need is made and has a price tag. What I’d love to do is get it out of the garage it’s in now.
  15. F&J, appreciate you stopping by and sharing the stories. Unfortunately my carpenter ran off with $700 and didn’t do nearly that much work. I tried to reach him many times, so now the Buick sits waiting for some stroke of luck (also known as the day I have any kind of income). I look at it and don’t see a terrible amount of work aside from the wood, but nobody will touch it. Boy, I’d be set if I could just get enough wood in to take the body off and store it some place dry. Try the wood grain! It was a lot of fun!
  16. So... I realized the other day that I’ve been running my engine on the distributor from the later (post-49) straight 8 I got from Georgia. I rebuilt the one that came on my engine after I found yesterday. Engine’s been running well, but I wonder if this will make it run perfectly... maybe this is the reason I was unable to see timing marks with the engine running well before? We will see.
  17. It is missing the windshield. They’re expensive, but available. I rebuilt the carb, won’t idle. Time to take all the bolt ons off and find an vacuum leak. I digress. I’ve been driving the Pontiac regularly with great success. The paint is terrible, so I decided to try various grinding methods/tools. I was very surprised by a flap disc and can only say “wow.” I’ve been stripping with wire wheels and could have had the whole car in bare metal in a couple afternoons if I’d known about flap discs. Anyway, for about $50 of supplies, I mostly stripped and painted the front of the car. It looks
  18. Sure does. I haven’t driven it, but when I went to first look at it, I put a battery on it, sprayed, and it roared. It didn’t do that today with jumper cables to the tractor, but it will be a nice addition and for $3000 I would’ve let it go had it not started. Bit fancier than my Pontiac, but gotta have the best of both worlds.
  19. It’s been a tad too hot to be in a closed car doing the wiring that needs to be done, but I have been driving it. Holds at 180°F on the gauge (which may be closer to 165°F I suspect, I need an IR thermometer) as long as we’re moving. If I sit and idle for 5 minutes or so, it gets to 200 on the gauge, and it’s hard to get it back down with any amount of driving. So since I can’t do much work with this heat and school keeps me tired, I decided to spread myself out even more by diversifying the fleet a bit. Couldn’t pass it up.
  20. Ah but the strength and durability (especially with our humidity) of that white pebbled shower paneling... so much for $32 and it cuts so well without falling apart! I’d encourage you to consider it, I tried that rough/smooth ply board and we didn’t get along.
  21. Phil, I used my cheap poking tools to get them off. They’re closer to the business end of the handle than you’d think- get a good flashlight in there and push on that panel. And watch them fly! Making door panels is easy, good materials are easy to come by. I found great substitutes at Lowe’s, text or message for a detailed guide!
  22. Thanks for the info, Charles. I have chased, and based on the picture there, that valve isn’t in line from the pump to the under seat heater. This means that hot water is always going to travel at some rate-or at least transfer heat- to the under seat core. The valve pictured looks like a component present on the passenger side of my under dash apparatus, which controls the amount of hot water going through the defroster core. Not terribly worried, it isn’t near cold here yet. I got my “signal lights” cleaned up and tested, picked up a 6v flasher from napa, and with 75 feet of wiring, I s
  23. Not that it was rough, but it was popping some on idle at the exhaust, so I borrowed a timing light but I’ve been unable to see the marks so far. Even popping the starter along to see the whole flywheel... but with the timing light, is it possible I have the flywheel on wrong? If I recall, there was only one way for it to go on. According to the manual, the flywheel marks are massive and easy to see, but I see nothing. I did retard the timing, it helped things a lot. Carburetor/choke adjustments are now necessary because it’s having a hard time starting, I think mainly due to maladjustment of
  24. So we have no valve whatsoever to the under-seat heater core. I will change that eventually. My transmission has been leaking so I figured I’d put some kind of liquid fix in (that never works in my experience). Well, Lucas stop-slip and 2 quarts of atf made that transmission run like a dream. Wow. Smooth shifting, stopped the leak, and yes it was very dry due to my underestimating the leaks. The next day it didn’t shift quite as well, so I’ll put another bottle of the Lucas product in, it’s thick but not terribly so. I let my neighbor (who helped me time it and adjust the choke) drive it
  25. Thanks guys, and Neil thank you for answering my most annoying question. I’ll look again for a valve. This looks to be the outlet originally fitted on the pump (afraid to try and take it off honestly), but maybe there’s something under the car!
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