cevensky

Members
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cevensky

  1. Today I decided to install the plug wire harness from my spare engine I’d cleaned up. After it was all done, I tried to start the car. Nothing. I went through the ignition, tried different coils, pulled wires, sanded and reset the points, etc. Nothing. Over an hour of troubleshooting and still nothing. Looked in the carb and worked the throttle... nothing! Guess the last time I pulled in the garage was when I went through the five gallons of gas I put in earlier this month. In other news, I pulled my water pump to install the rear plate to housing gasket, but I saw the weep hole is the problem, so now I’m in the market for a new water pump that doesn’t cost $200+ if anyone has any leads. Next item on the list is fixing my pickup tube on my gas tank and seeing if the sending unit works. Obviously I need it!
  2. A couple quick adventures: Took it into the yard for a quick rinse the other day. I’ve been driving it up and down the street, my stalling issue on acceleration seems to be coming from the adjustment of the thermo-spring controlled choke being too open. Trying to hit the sweet spot of closed enough to not stall, but open enough to not have super rich exhaust. My last radio components arrived and I got it installed. It’s connected to the accessory position on my ignition and can be controlled completely from my phone and there can be some control from the selector knob on volume if you’re driving. It’s nice and loud, sounds good, and I have connections for two more speakers that I have tied off for now. Again, if anyone is interested, I could definitely rig up most similarly sized radios for bluetooth as a side gig. I accidentally broke a “Silverstreak” emblem taking it off to clean it. Snapped in three. So, I’m searching for that. upholstery material for door cards and 3 hubcaps are on the way. Also in need of a light switch! Accepting all donations 😆
  3. Well here we are. Last night I spent further gutting the already thoroughly damaged radio innards. I crammed two 80w speakers in there and have a 6v to 12v-10A step up converter on the way along with a 4-channel Bluetooth amplifier. The amp has an external, wired volume control that I’m going to bond to the “selector” knob on my original radio plate. Not only will it look completely original, it will serve some function too. I’ve circled in red where I bent the existing bracket to eventually use some JB weld putty to stick the volume control in place and to the control knob. Today, everything was dry enough to spray the gloss enamel on and seal it up. I had gotten the wiper motor working with some oil and no load on the arms, but putting it on the wiper blade arms made it stall so I’ll need a rebuild kit or new motor. After the enamel had dried, everything went in after I finished carpeting the drywall. The sides have to stay unfinished until I get the windlace (which connects on some brackets there and is needlessly pricey). So here it is:
  4. I spent today tweaking my still wet dash and glove box door. I dismantled the radio. I have neither the cash nor the desire to spend hundreds to get an AM radio restored. Instead, I’ve gutted the radio box (many of the internals were damaged, I’m not the first to poke around) and will put a small car speaker (or two) in there. I’ll leave all the controls and plates for looks. I’ll run a small marine Bluetooth amplifier in the radio box with the speakers on a 6 to 12v converter. I cleaned and painted the speaker faceplate and mocked up the dash. I also spent some time on the lucite wings. I flipped them over after sanding and Brillo padding the bad side with comet. I did drop and chip it but it wasn’t too bad. Just adds character. I also put some more bubble foil insulation on the firewall while the space is available. It went on right over the remarkably intact original pad. The more the merrier. I’ll screw some carpet up over this. Tomorrow I’ll do the clear coat on the dashboard and glove box, if they’re dry. They’re still tacky but I’ll leave them under the fan tonight.
  5. The woodgrain really wasn’t hard. I do suggest using some test panels of cardboard first. Basically start with a lighter brown spray paint (maybe a couple coats, the wood stain melts and strips it if it isn’t totally set, too. Then follow up with brushing (not a whole lot) wood stain over it in a rough pattern of what you want. There’s various tools to do this but I went with cheap rough chip brushes from harbor freight. For dark grains I put little tiny drops over the almost dried stain and brushed it once to give streaks of “black.” It was fun. Alternatively, send me your bare metal and I’ll charge you a cheap price for average looking wood grain! 😄
  6. Well I was going to woodgrain the dash in the car... ended up taking it out. I also painted some of the stuff in the car that gets the monotone treatment, along with an offwhite epoxy paint on the steering wheel. It’s my first attempt and I’m happy with it. Also, my wire wheel shined up the steering wheel chrome without scuffing it. I still don’t understand it but I’m not mad.
  7. Ben, the carb is all rebuilt and I know I’ve seen this squirt in the last month, but I’ll recheck. Fuel pump is also brand new. Maybe timing, maybe the choke plate needs adjusting back down to the closed position at rest a little more. We had to play with that to get the idle correct. Come to think of it, it was running so rich when I first got it to start that it could probably stand to have the plugs removed, cleaned, and gapped again. One or more may be badly fouled. Another source could be the junk in the inline filter constricting fuel flow, I need to check this too. Then I’ll find a fancy timing light to borrow. Thanks!
  8. Thanks Bloo! These are the kinds of comments I come here for, you rock!
  9. Thanks for all y'all's kind words and encouragement. Due to my lack of funds I don't even know what a "door panel" is right now! If anyone has any left over interior materials I'd be happy to take them off your hands like card material and stuff like that. Door panels really are up next. Took it around on a Sunday drive. Sometimes on take off (like at a stop sign) it stumbles and acts like it will stall (it did once). Maybe my mixture screws are too far out and the air/gas mix is too lean? I haven't timed with a timing light yet.. Anyone have any guesses? It was a good 4.5 mile drive. Thing never gets up past 150F although the engine compartment gets warm from the manifold heat, I'm happy at 150 and added some aluminum stop leak because I'm too lazy to pull my water pump right now. It shifts through gears well and fast if I let off the gas every now and then, could the stalling problem and this be fixed by adjusting the bands? Maybe a good Lucas additive anyone has testimony using in an old, but maybe not worn, Hydramatic. Cabin was a lot more comfortable today, some ambient firewall heat, thinking of using that thick thick foam/foil stuff to stop all that if it's the best? And again, the radio, how is it in there??? Help!
  10. So I was tired of the exhaust and gas fumes and the inside looking like a trash can in general, so I took out the seats around noon just to do some (refined) redneck floor patching. Seven hours later, and I’m not sure how, I have new carpet installed. Basically, I wire wheeled and painted the pans as they were, then used various dealers and 22 to 26 gauge steel sheets from Lowe’s to patch it all up. None of it looked terribly structural, but I was careful to seal out moisture and leave no bare metal. All the patches I attached with self-drilling screws and then I used a bunch of that bubble wrap insulation. The carpet was $20 for 36 sq ft so I couldn’t resist. And here’s the proof. If you don’t like this kind of patching, the good news is, the car’s not on the market and it’s free to keep your mouth shut! I think it’ll hold up nicely though. If there’s any input on removing the radio, I am puzzled.
  11. Here's a video of it running in the driveway. I've had a few successful runs down the street, turn around in a driveway and come back. Later this week I'll get the gas tank and new alternator installed, I think a lot of the noise in the video is from the generator. After that, I should be able to really cruise around the neighborhood. I also have a plug loom retainer I'm going to clean up and put on here soon. May not look like much, but I hope what's under the hood makes up for it! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFthjiZI3An1Wu6r84mnQ3wM1evZQkQp
  12. Thanks Paul, it was definitely rewarding. I would've gone further but I need to gain some confidence and also find my tire chuck... Having a real gas tank wouldn't hurt, neither would a charging system. Jeff- all I can say is that yes, the green does go to the starter and ammeter. It isn't hard to find a wiring diagram for the dash gauge online. My clock is busted and I'm not worried about fixing it anytime soon so someone else would be better to ask.
  13. Well, we got on the road for the first time! grill is back on, brakes bled, transmission seems pretty responsive... after nearly a whole other gallon of ATF. I’ve run flex hose to the trunk and tied a five gallon can in there. The tank has been sealed on the inside, but has several gallons of very very old gas in it. So what does one do with old gas? I had the original temp sender and gauge hooked up and it worked when the engine almost over heated when badly timed, but after a new thermostat it barely registered after 8 or so minutes of idling... so I put a mechanical one on, turns out the engine just doesn’t get too hot. I won’t take that as a bad thing for now. I will have to repair floor pans. However, the old bank account is running on E right now. First thing after I get some cash will be a 6v alternator painted black.
  14. Update: got the idle issue fixed by my neighbor. The thermospring needed some adjustment and some timing adjustment as well. Fires right up, purrs. It did almost overheat (original gauge and temp sender both operate well), turns out the original thermostat doesn’t work. Easy fix. All my brakes are hooked up: front pads look brand new, rears are almost bare. I just need new rear shoes and to bleed the system. I’ll pull the gas tank and try to inspect it when I get the chance. Still have an exhaust leak at the engine. I’ll try to do some orange rtv but I’ll probably have to get a new manifold gasket set too.
  15. Today I drove it out of the garage under its own power and backed it in too. Without brakes, so it was slow and timid. It ran very very rich (lots of black smoke) unless I held the choke open, but then it idled very fast. I’m thinking I have a timing issue because I played with the mixture screws and they both were opened several turns without much difference (I know the standard is about one turn open). It also wouldn’t start without holding the choke open... Can the timing cause this kind of rich running condition with a Carter WCD? Is the pump pumping too much? I have a pressure regulator I could use. The carb is rebuilt I’m trying to get away with adjusting the metering rod only if I have to. It was fun though!
  16. Today I put the radiator and all that on, figured it can’t hurt. This weekend I’ll try to run it, mixture screws adjusted this time and will have a cooling system too. I’ll also buy a fire extinguisher so I don’t have to worry about the exhaust leak, if it’s still present. I need to get that lower deck panel fixed up where I cut it... thinking something temporary (no welding) until I’m sure it doesn’t have to all come out for the transmission.
  17. What I’m able to find online is plenty. Rusty- Thanks. Nobody makes exact fuel tank reproductions anymore, they’re universal and require modification. I can’t even get into the trunk right now, so I’m running off a little red gas can. Today I installed one new brake line, did some wiring so I can kill it with the key, and put a different gasket on the exhaust pipe to manifold. Looks like manifold is still leaking somehow... I may have to undo and retorque the whole thing. The engine was definitely flooded. I need to adjust the two mixture screws on the carb (see attached pic, flooded tube goes to the middle cylinders). For now I’m leaving it off for the night with paper towel to help the gas evaporate out. The first start with the gas pump was the best. I think it flooded shortly thereafter which is why it’s been so hard to start. Battery is charging, I’ll try again tomorrow.
  18. That manual is actually available free online in a PDF! It’s got wiring diagrams and all that... from pictures of other engines online I got the pump hooked up after I got a brand new one today. I put the pump on and it fired right up- sounded great too. I think I might’ve flooded it trying after, but it did run a bit! Tomorrow I’ll work on getting driver‘s side brakes done, installing the fan and radiator, and getting the key wired up so I can kill it. I also need to get a better deal between exhaust pipe and manifold, if anyone has any tips.
  19. Alright. Bolted in, drive shaft connected, oil in engine, plugs in, manifolds and carb on, starter on, gas pump (of unknown condition) is on, and maybe some other things. Tomorrow I’ll get the distributor on and hot wire a coil, run some flex tube to a gas can, and see what happens. Does anyone have a diagram showing the shifter/throttle/starter linkage? I took pictures but the complexity has rendered them totally inadequate.
  20. Today I’ll try to get the drivetrain bolted in. All 6 of those bolts. I’m about four inches forward from where the engine needs to be. I’ll have to get a come along or ratchet strap on the rear mount and ratchet it back to the frame. I’ve tried everything else. It’s heavy. My cleaned up driveshaft is in. I also got a set of beauty rings 😎 and I put in the new master cylinder while I had the real estate.
  21. The weather has been miserable. My concrete floor is slick with water and a small bit of oil from my ‘42 Ford. I can’t lay on it and the constant drizzle of rain is gross. These would be the days I don’t have piles of school work... but, I’ve got 27/30 torus to flywheel bolts in (some are shorter than others, hopefully the longer ones are correct, I don’t know where else 20 of these bolts would’ve come from. Shorties will get changed) and I bought new plugs today, worked on new cloth covered wiring inside. Here’s what it looks like right now, thankfully that paint got on there fast. Still have bits of flash rust with the 90%+ humidity.
  22. Thanks for noticing, Jeff. It’s actually the original one, I just wore wheeled it and used the aforementioned flameproof VHT aluminum finish- the flameproof paints impress me and that color is really nice. I got held up today but got a couple bolts holding the trans and engine together along with 7/30 torus to flywheel screws. Weather is crummy. May finish pre-install tasks tomorrow, may not.
  23. Thanks! Weather was good enough to spray after unloading it. Covers were painted with the VHT aluminum finish I’ve used on a few pieces because I couldn’t find my hirsch paint. For now I’ll keep them like that because I like the look but it’s an easy change in the future. I’m saving that expensive paint on some pieces and going with gloss black. Like I said, I like a certain look. I welcome and appreciate the input on correctness though, obviously I’m going for correct. About to buy some original beauty rings off a hot rodder.
  24. Today I went to pay for and pick up my engine. Ouch. But it’s done and paid for. I’ve been painting bolt-ons and getting everything ready to put this thing in. Today I worked more on getting the master cylinder out, I’ll finish that tomorrow. The engine is now painted and everything is masked off waiting to receive plugs, manifolds, carb, etc. The engine shop lost one of my flywheel bolts so they have one hostage while they make one. Tomorrow after I get that, the engine and trans go together and in (after a fluid fill up).
  25. Bloo, as far as I can tell in mine, the blower is under the driver’s fender and there’s a control box under the radio. There’s vents that are controlled there that divert the warmed air into the vents on the windshield. I think what opens under the seat is the cabin heater. Anyway, this is not a thread about heaters. What I have is stock, follow along in the future to see what I have after my engine is installed and I’m on the road!