cevensky

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Everything posted by cevensky

  1. No luck on the flywheel/screwdriver trick either, I’m familiar with that one. I did a little pb blaster to make sure things didn’t get worse if it is in fact the pistons. I’ll check when the weather gets better this week
  2. Gary- I did try to use the starter but it started to smoke as it met too much resistance and couldn’t turn at all. I tried yanking the fan belt, which has good traction on the crank pulley but no dice. I guess the next step is pull the radiator and try the breaker bar. It’s weird. The car sat for a decade and the engine was free as a bird. My luck.
  3. Well, I went to turn my engine to get the last two valves out but it seems like my engine has seized... I don’t know how. Is it possible that the pistons got locked up in the cylinders that fast? It couldn’t have been two weeks after I loosened the head bolts that this happened. Then, I thought it was an electrical/starter problem but I removed my starter and it’s fine! I need some advice for anyone that’s used some kind of liquid to unfreeze/solve this problem. Is there something I’m over looking? What else could be stuck? next move would be stick it in a shop, which I literally cannot afford with just several hundred dollars to my name! SOS
  4. Thanks! Additionally, if anyone has experience with removing valve guides... please give me some advice. I can’t afford to send it to a machine shop (nor do I have the equipment to remove this massive engine) so removing and installing guides will be done with this engine in the vehicle.
  5. Here’s some more pictures of finished parts. Luckily I live alone so I get to decide what the dining room table is for. My carburetor was done by mail in by Mister Carburetor outside of Dallas, look for yourself... I think it’s beautiful.
  6. My first day out of school without rain after surviving the semester. I was outside all day and painted my manifolds and thermostat (1st coat), got all my valves out (minus 2, I’ll have to go get my battery back and turnover the engine to ease the process), cleaned up the surface, I also have my head, which looks brand new, and I got most of the build up off of the piston surfaces. Some of my valve guides are burnt to the point of crumbling and some were so tight that I could barely get the valves out. So I’ll have to figure a way to remove the old ones and install new ones with the engine in there... Next up I’ll buy the valves, seats, and other parts for the head, paint the head, then hopefully slam it all together as fast as possible. I’ve been saving my money all semester to blow it all in this week off... on car parts. Oh, and the color is Detroit diesel alpine green from duplicolor. It’s a very close match to whats left on the block. I think I’m just painting the head with this and leaving the block in it’s ugly overspray black rather than trying to do another ugly overspray.
  7. Thanks guys, The Buick takes up over half of my garage so if I ever want that back, it has to have work done to it! Here’s a picture of the bad valves. They’re bent? No wonder it didn’t stay running. Things musta gotten pretty hot. Oh, the trunk floor is also non-existent... but the spare is there and the trunk lid stays up by the proper mechanism!
  8. The carburetor is already professionally rebuilt and the head will be resurfaced and magnafluxed and cleaned with the manifolds this week. I have new manifold and head gaskets and new plug wires. Valves are next to be ordered and although I’ve never replaced one, I'm hoping to convince a friend to help me (if it’s possible to do without pulling the engine). To be clear, my intentions with this car are to get it on the road. Period. I happen to find it presentable. Start, turn, stop. That’s all I want and I’ll be thrilled!
  9. For those of you who were watching my ‘33 Buick, I apologize for the hold... med school is a busy time and I’ll have to save work on it for larger breaks (also the carpenter is a hard man to pin down). So, I got a project that I hope to be less time consuming and labor-intensive to get it down the road: A 1948 Pontiac Streamliner “SilverStreak” with an in-line, flathead 8 cylinder. Buying this car is a STORY all its own but now I have it for the bargain price of *drumroll*....... $1500! The look of this car, even in the current condition got my heart racing and then I saw the flat straight 8 and that was all it took. The worst news first: 1) thought I’d be able to get away with some basic engine cleaning cause it did do the briefest of turnovers (even with a totally nonfunctional carb); however, after removing the head, I have some burnt and bent valves. 2) there’s rust through at the bottom of the trunk lid and in front of pass. back seat. 3) wiring is a mess but it’d run with the current set up. The better news: 1) turn the key and press the foot starter, turns over smooth and gave some fire with starter fluid and gas. 2) upholstery is redone (not a huge fan fashion-wise) and very intact. 3) doesn’t look like a total piece of trash and I like it so, here it is:
  10. Keiser, yes I do and I picked up the rebuilt starter the other day too! Has a large rust through on driver's side lower cowl... other than that, minor stuff. I mean... minor to me ?
  11. Thanks for the words chistech. At the end of the day, we're less the "owners" of these cars and more stewards since they will outlast us, regardless of how old or young you may be. I'm young and able to restore, so that's what I'm doing now, but one day long down the road maybe I'll come into the care of some fine restored cars as current owners need to, or have to, let go of them. And definitely, mistakes have been and will continue to be made. It's how I learn best ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ As for the wood: it does in fact have the curve you're talking about, it's just not visible in the pictures because it's covered by the rocker panel metal that we used to estimate the curve, which can be fine tuned if needed with a sander. But this Buick does have a very pronounced taper from rear to front. Again, I really appreciate comments like these to make sure I'm doing things right. For example, I hate to not use the beautiful rims but based on the advice here, I may not and it's turning out to be an incredible inconvenience, holding me up considerably. But, I can't waste money on them if they aren't good.
  12. Had the carpenter out today. He came and fit the wood on the spot since we don't have any of the bottom wood. Only a few more pieces he'll need to do this for. I've been a little busy getting a model A running that sat for 20 years and a '29 dodge brothers (DA Deluxe? Standard Six? Not sure) made it to my place on Wednesday. Oh well!
  13. Good to know... I'll be more careful around it ? Most of it looks good, but some is also unnecessary.
  14. Today I ground paint and surface rust off some of the rear passenger side panels, sanded, wiped with acetone, and primed. I also decided on a gloss black "epoxy" appliance paint to do the inside because I've used it before and it's really durable (and cheap). I also refined (smoothed) some of the body filler put on there probably 50+ years ago and while welding some splits in the body I discovered it's something like solder. And there's a lot of it in two places, one picture attached. What is this??
  15. After a little wait due to my real job having no schedule or regular hours, I've made it back to the Buick. And John, thanks for the question because here's the next update: the awesome carpenter brought by the first two pieces of wood today and they're beautiful and fit perfectly. The main sills are next and then we go up from there.
  16. I've been working on the rims since getting them back from the blaster. Luckily these artillery wheels are very very heavy duty and no worries about the integrity. But. Each one has mild to moderate pitting on the face and at least 5-6" of the outer lip that was eaten away. I really impressed myself with my welding/grinding/filing skills; I was able to get all the lips looking good as new! However, that pitting... I tried bondo to fill the pits along with a high build spray primer. This is my first rodeo, but the curves are just so hard to sand and there's still putting after a couple primer coats. Any suggestions on this? For now I'm pulling off, cleaning, painting, and bagging small parts. Main sills and other major stabilizing wood pieces are going in next week(ish). I might just leave these in primer and put some nearly-trash rollers on these just to move things ahead. Thoughts and input?
  17. Thanks Coyote, I'm not actively looking for one, just thought it may be fun to have a driveable old car for the interim. I'm thinking most of the rust is not too bad, but won't know till I can touch it. However, I would have thought the fact it drives is enough of a plus. I don't have much money but again, I'd love to rescue this car and spruce it up a little. The interior looks beyond serviceable and the lack of missing major parts is encouraging to me. We'll see if he'll take less I suppose.
  18. This is on the gulf coast now, formerly a well kept car bought from California for $9500, allegedly put $13,500 for things like carburetor stuff, new fuel tank, etc. not entirely clear, but the interior is well kept. Current owner has no investment in it. I offered a little more than y'all have suggested, now I guess I'll have to tell him that I can't offer my original but I'd still like to save the car.
  19. Hey y'all, I'm about to buy this car to save it from salty air and high humidity. It runs, everything is more or less solid (minus the windshield), and I was wondering what y'all would peg its value at based solely on the pictures, fact it drives, and that it's (allegedly) had a decent amount of money put in it in the last 5 years. Here's the pictures:
  20. The other day before work I got to use a tire machine to dismount what was left of the rubber then I drove out and dropped all 6 rims at the blaster. The two spares are very rough, the rest will require a touch of welding and grinding for aesthetic purposes, but I believe them to be structurally safe. We'll see what blasts away. The carpenter texted last night, he wants to start Monday. After burning out one grinder, I have a good bit of the inside of the body cleaned and epoxy primed (you'll notice a "2" was painted on the rear driver's side panel at one point. Any ideas?), I'm going to get the deposit for him tomorrow and have him start around lunch doing his thing. Felt good to get something so big so clean. I also had spent some time getting the huge dent in the rear pass. panel out best I could. The little dents I made will have to be handled at a later date
  21. One concern I've had since the woods was that the front wheels did not turn at all. Thankfully today I was able to pull the passenger side brake drum, clean it up (until my angle grinder started smoking) along with the bearings, pack those, and spray it with some paint to protect from humidity. Luckily, the bearings and races all looked amazing. I'm keeping the brake shoes and their linkage out to work on in the meantime but they won't be needed for a couple months at least. One down, four to go! i also did a little wire wheeling on the frame and other grease-covered stuff just to check it out. Everything looks really great–very encouraging.
  22. Yes! Please, if anyone has a sequence of events I'd greatly appreciate any kind of outline you've followed or if you've just got some ideas, any suggestions for a sequence here are appreciated.
  23. Carl and 1939_Buick, I really appreciate the advice and of course this is a worry of mine but for now the car literally can't be moved. For better or for worse, his family is wholly disinterested in all of his cars. when the frame goes to the sandblasted, I plan on asking for the title to be legally transferred to my name, likely in addition to a sort of will addendum/separate legal agreement for some of his other cars too. Luckily, my sister is a newly minted lawyer! We've already discussed details and surprisingly, he is the one who brought the subject to me first. Today I met with a carpenter who is enthusiastic about bringing the main body to his shop where he can do the complicated wood work and teach me to do the easy stuff (floors) along with letting me use body working tools with instruction! It took up a lot of garage time though so I only got a running board off today.
  24. Last night I got the rear passenger fended off–it was a necessity because until my jeep's transmission is in fighting fit again, it has to share the garage and it's a tight fit along with this behemoth Buick. I also got the entire dash out and I hope the wiring diagram with whatever harness I buy is decent! More teardown tonight after work. (I'm showing off a picture of my personally and completely restored '42 Ford jeep, the one on the right. The one I got driving for him is on the left) I'm taking suggestions on how to best lift the body off. I'm imagining some wood to stabilize where the doors should be and using my rafters and shop crane. Pictures for now will be boring and monochromatic due to my lackluster garage lighting and ubiquitous rust/dust! Sorry!
  25. Ken, I'm in Shreveport and this car was in Plain dealing, nearly up in Arkansas. The technical owner of this, my friend, has several dozen cars, some better and some worse off than this one. I just finished reconditioning a 43 jeep for him, and amongst all the projects I could've taken from him, this was the one that stood out to me.