cevensky

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Everything posted by cevensky

  1. Thanks Bloo! These are the kinds of comments I come here for, you rock!
  2. Thanks for all y'all's kind words and encouragement. Due to my lack of funds I don't even know what a "door panel" is right now! If anyone has any left over interior materials I'd be happy to take them off your hands like card material and stuff like that. Door panels really are up next. Took it around on a Sunday drive. Sometimes on take off (like at a stop sign) it stumbles and acts like it will stall (it did once). Maybe my mixture screws are too far out and the air/gas mix is too lean? I haven't timed with a timing light yet.. Anyone have any guesses? It was a good 4.5 mile drive. Thing never gets up past 150F although the engine compartment gets warm from the manifold heat, I'm happy at 150 and added some aluminum stop leak because I'm too lazy to pull my water pump right now. It shifts through gears well and fast if I let off the gas every now and then, could the stalling problem and this be fixed by adjusting the bands? Maybe a good Lucas additive anyone has testimony using in an old, but maybe not worn, Hydramatic. Cabin was a lot more comfortable today, some ambient firewall heat, thinking of using that thick thick foam/foil stuff to stop all that if it's the best? And again, the radio, how is it in there??? Help!
  3. So I was tired of the exhaust and gas fumes and the inside looking like a trash can in general, so I took out the seats around noon just to do some (refined) redneck floor patching. Seven hours later, and I’m not sure how, I have new carpet installed. Basically, I wire wheeled and painted the pans as they were, then used various dealers and 22 to 26 gauge steel sheets from Lowe’s to patch it all up. None of it looked terribly structural, but I was careful to seal out moisture and leave no bare metal. All the patches I attached with self-drilling screws and then I used a bunch of that bubble wrap insulation. The carpet was $20 for 36 sq ft so I couldn’t resist. And here’s the proof. If you don’t like this kind of patching, the good news is, the car’s not on the market and it’s free to keep your mouth shut! I think it’ll hold up nicely though. If there’s any input on removing the radio, I am puzzled.
  4. Here's a video of it running in the driveway. I've had a few successful runs down the street, turn around in a driveway and come back. Later this week I'll get the gas tank and new alternator installed, I think a lot of the noise in the video is from the generator. After that, I should be able to really cruise around the neighborhood. I also have a plug loom retainer I'm going to clean up and put on here soon. May not look like much, but I hope what's under the hood makes up for it! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFthjiZI3An1Wu6r84mnQ3wM1evZQkQp
  5. Thanks Paul, it was definitely rewarding. I would've gone further but I need to gain some confidence and also find my tire chuck... Having a real gas tank wouldn't hurt, neither would a charging system. Jeff- all I can say is that yes, the green does go to the starter and ammeter. It isn't hard to find a wiring diagram for the dash gauge online. My clock is busted and I'm not worried about fixing it anytime soon so someone else would be better to ask.
  6. Well, we got on the road for the first time! grill is back on, brakes bled, transmission seems pretty responsive... after nearly a whole other gallon of ATF. I’ve run flex hose to the trunk and tied a five gallon can in there. The tank has been sealed on the inside, but has several gallons of very very old gas in it. So what does one do with old gas? I had the original temp sender and gauge hooked up and it worked when the engine almost over heated when badly timed, but after a new thermostat it barely registered after 8 or so minutes of idling... so I put a mechanical one on, turns out the engine just doesn’t get too hot. I won’t take that as a bad thing for now. I will have to repair floor pans. However, the old bank account is running on E right now. First thing after I get some cash will be a 6v alternator painted black.
  7. Update: got the idle issue fixed by my neighbor. The thermospring needed some adjustment and some timing adjustment as well. Fires right up, purrs. It did almost overheat (original gauge and temp sender both operate well), turns out the original thermostat doesn’t work. Easy fix. All my brakes are hooked up: front pads look brand new, rears are almost bare. I just need new rear shoes and to bleed the system. I’ll pull the gas tank and try to inspect it when I get the chance. Still have an exhaust leak at the engine. I’ll try to do some orange rtv but I’ll probably have to get a new manifold gasket set too.
  8. Today I drove it out of the garage under its own power and backed it in too. Without brakes, so it was slow and timid. It ran very very rich (lots of black smoke) unless I held the choke open, but then it idled very fast. I’m thinking I have a timing issue because I played with the mixture screws and they both were opened several turns without much difference (I know the standard is about one turn open). It also wouldn’t start without holding the choke open... Can the timing cause this kind of rich running condition with a Carter WCD? Is the pump pumping too much? I have a pressure regulator I could use. The carb is rebuilt I’m trying to get away with adjusting the metering rod only if I have to. It was fun though!
  9. Today I put the radiator and all that on, figured it can’t hurt. This weekend I’ll try to run it, mixture screws adjusted this time and will have a cooling system too. I’ll also buy a fire extinguisher so I don’t have to worry about the exhaust leak, if it’s still present. I need to get that lower deck panel fixed up where I cut it... thinking something temporary (no welding) until I’m sure it doesn’t have to all come out for the transmission.
  10. What I’m able to find online is plenty. Rusty- Thanks. Nobody makes exact fuel tank reproductions anymore, they’re universal and require modification. I can’t even get into the trunk right now, so I’m running off a little red gas can. Today I installed one new brake line, did some wiring so I can kill it with the key, and put a different gasket on the exhaust pipe to manifold. Looks like manifold is still leaking somehow... I may have to undo and retorque the whole thing. The engine was definitely flooded. I need to adjust the two mixture screws on the carb (see attached pic, flooded tube goes to the middle cylinders). For now I’m leaving it off for the night with paper towel to help the gas evaporate out. The first start with the gas pump was the best. I think it flooded shortly thereafter which is why it’s been so hard to start. Battery is charging, I’ll try again tomorrow.
  11. That manual is actually available free online in a PDF! It’s got wiring diagrams and all that... from pictures of other engines online I got the pump hooked up after I got a brand new one today. I put the pump on and it fired right up- sounded great too. I think I might’ve flooded it trying after, but it did run a bit! Tomorrow I’ll work on getting driver‘s side brakes done, installing the fan and radiator, and getting the key wired up so I can kill it. I also need to get a better deal between exhaust pipe and manifold, if anyone has any tips.
  12. Alright. Bolted in, drive shaft connected, oil in engine, plugs in, manifolds and carb on, starter on, gas pump (of unknown condition) is on, and maybe some other things. Tomorrow I’ll get the distributor on and hot wire a coil, run some flex tube to a gas can, and see what happens. Does anyone have a diagram showing the shifter/throttle/starter linkage? I took pictures but the complexity has rendered them totally inadequate.
  13. Today I’ll try to get the drivetrain bolted in. All 6 of those bolts. I’m about four inches forward from where the engine needs to be. I’ll have to get a come along or ratchet strap on the rear mount and ratchet it back to the frame. I’ve tried everything else. It’s heavy. My cleaned up driveshaft is in. I also got a set of beauty rings 😎 and I put in the new master cylinder while I had the real estate.
  14. The weather has been miserable. My concrete floor is slick with water and a small bit of oil from my ‘42 Ford. I can’t lay on it and the constant drizzle of rain is gross. These would be the days I don’t have piles of school work... but, I’ve got 27/30 torus to flywheel bolts in (some are shorter than others, hopefully the longer ones are correct, I don’t know where else 20 of these bolts would’ve come from. Shorties will get changed) and I bought new plugs today, worked on new cloth covered wiring inside. Here’s what it looks like right now, thankfully that paint got on there fast. Still have bits of flash rust with the 90%+ humidity.
  15. Thanks for noticing, Jeff. It’s actually the original one, I just wore wheeled it and used the aforementioned flameproof VHT aluminum finish- the flameproof paints impress me and that color is really nice. I got held up today but got a couple bolts holding the trans and engine together along with 7/30 torus to flywheel screws. Weather is crummy. May finish pre-install tasks tomorrow, may not.
  16. Thanks! Weather was good enough to spray after unloading it. Covers were painted with the VHT aluminum finish I’ve used on a few pieces because I couldn’t find my hirsch paint. For now I’ll keep them like that because I like the look but it’s an easy change in the future. I’m saving that expensive paint on some pieces and going with gloss black. Like I said, I like a certain look. I welcome and appreciate the input on correctness though, obviously I’m going for correct. About to buy some original beauty rings off a hot rodder.
  17. Today I went to pay for and pick up my engine. Ouch. But it’s done and paid for. I’ve been painting bolt-ons and getting everything ready to put this thing in. Today I worked more on getting the master cylinder out, I’ll finish that tomorrow. The engine is now painted and everything is masked off waiting to receive plugs, manifolds, carb, etc. The engine shop lost one of my flywheel bolts so they have one hostage while they make one. Tomorrow after I get that, the engine and trans go together and in (after a fluid fill up).
  18. Bloo, as far as I can tell in mine, the blower is under the driver’s fender and there’s a control box under the radio. There’s vents that are controlled there that divert the warmed air into the vents on the windshield. I think what opens under the seat is the cabin heater. Anyway, this is not a thread about heaters. What I have is stock, follow along in the future to see what I have after my engine is installed and I’m on the road!
  19. Jeff: the best picture I have of my head number is in this thread. Page 1 I think. Your heater is obviously aftermarket, I still have an original, still functional as far as I can tell my engine will be back before the new year (I hope). I’ve got everything I need to fire it up. Y’all pray over my hydramatic working with nothing more than some new paint on it. I’ve bought cloth covered wire to make a little bit of harness to get me going, along with all new break cylinders and flex hoses. I’ll update on the next development, should be fun.
  20. I’m pretty sure your block is the same as mine, be careful of the holes in the bottom of the valve gallery. I plugged them with something so the collets wouldn’t fall through. If you’re worried, a good magnet placed next to the bottom of the valve stem will catch the collets.
  21. Phil, give a call to Terrill Machine (two-five-four) 893-261zero. He was able to supply me every part for my straight eight rebuild, valves included. The parts are the same as or better quality than the others and his prices can not be beat. He’s fair on shipping, close by, and a gentleman to boot.
  22. have you tried California Pontiac Restoration? If this link doesn’t have it (their website admittedly takes getting used to) then just call. They’re super helpful and super nice, even by Southern standards. http://www.pontiacparts.net/Chassis/default.htm call if you don’t see it, they don’t list everything.
  23. Phil, are you operating with no gaskets between the manifolds and between the manifolds and block?
  24. This is the head I got with an engine someone gave me. The head to the engine originally in my 48’ (that I’ve already had cleaned and surfaced, and thus is going back on) has no markings and is not high comp. So your head may not be a replacement, it may just not have come with it. In somewhat related news, I guess I have a high comp head for sale.
  25. Mine and others I’ve seen are stamped “high compression” above the temperature sending unit.