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Everything posted by cevensky

  1. Ah perfect! I get the chance to leave Shreveport for the south every now and then. Good to know there's an experienced hydramatic rebuilder in-state 😂 (only partially a joke!), I've seen some of your other work rebuilding the radio and all that and I'm real impressed. I'll be needing help in the future There's no good reason your manifolds shouldn't seat together with a new gasket between them. I'll be running the same experiment when my 8 is out of the shop in a month or two.
  2. I’m in northwest Louisiana. They’re a spare set off a spare engine, a little rusty and greasy so hard to tell too much about leaks.
  3. Well... I can’t recall if they’re split yet... I can see/try sometime this week. I think they’re off a 51 but the manifolds should interchange at least from the 40s to 54.
  4. Phil, I feel your pain. I was so surprised when none of my studs broke off taking the manifolds off the block. Very solid. But I had to shell out like $85 just to get the manifold-to-manifold bolts removed. If all else fails, I have an extra intake you can just have. Great job on everything by the way, I’ve been following along.
  5. Kib, nice work. I wish I could take it all apart and clean the frame and whatnot, but I don’t want to take forever. Where’d you source that exhaust from? Let me know if you need any engine parts. I have manifolds, carb, distributor, etc. all in pretty good shape.
  6. Kib, according to Bill Hirsch (who I assume has researched it), yes. In addition, I found paint very close to this color while cleaning the trans for paint. I’m unsure if the side cover and oil pan were black, but I liked the look and wanted to be sparing with the expensive enamel. A few things like the oil pan plug will be painted red too, for visibility and aesthetics.
  7. I stopped into the shop to talk about my engine. The parts kit is $1400ish which is good and turns out labor isn’t going to even be half of what I was expecting. He knows I’m a student and is working with me massively on that, but he said they’ll do the rest of the work in winter when his guys aren’t as busy. I can’t complain. Meanwhile, I tried out my new engine enamel and painted the transmission.
  8. I went ahead and have decided on Bill Hirsch’s engine color. But no word from the machine shop yet other than it’s a good block. I’m going to work more on the lucite wings. Remove and sand them with acetone added in the mix? Just a light sand with acetone improved things. Also some masking tape and red and black paint has things looking sharp on the chrome (And a little more engine bay clean up)
  9. In making decisions before I get the engine back, a big one is paint. You’ve already seen the color I painted the head and manifolds and the other engine. Thats duplicolor engine enamel (which I’m a proponent of) Detroit diesel green. Then I did research and people claim the correct 1940-1957 color is a darker blue green and it was that was for 17 years... well, nobody can substantiate that claim and after I ordered that color from Bill Hirsch, I went with my gut and will stick with Detroit diesel. My reason is that on my ‘48 and my free straight 8, I found a color nearly identical under the repaint. On inspecting my Hydramatic, I found a big slop of that paint, which I believe is original, on the torque converter. Here’s my photo evidence. I didn’t want a “best guess” that was unsubstantiated: to the naked eye, the duplicolor is identical to what was originally on both of these.
  10. Most of the wiring has already been spliced poorly, wrapped in duct tape (fire hazard), and.... I already cut it out this morning. For now I’ll be wrapping all the ends in electrical tape and I’ll make a little harness for the essentials so it will start without a hotwire. After the engine and its parts are paid for, then brake cylinders, then a dash/engine harness.
  11. Well I hope the “royal treatment” it’s getting in the hands of professionals won’t be more than a few thousand. But it will be worth it, I’m sure, to have a car I won’t be afraid to really drive around. Tomorrow I’ll get the transmission back and clean it up (with a stuck engine, you can’t get all the bolts off the torque converter to remove the trans, so they had to). I’ll post pictures, I’m changing the engine paint color too to a darker hunter green that apparently is the correct color... but nobody’s really sure..
  12. It isn’t just the distance! The next move is to cut all of that out so I can clean and paint that part of the firewall, I’m pretty adept at wiring at this point and I have enough wire/terminals laying around to make what I need for ignition. Since school restarted, buying a steak instead of a chicken burrito is enough to stall the project 😂
  13. More engine compartment progress. I’m grappling with whether or not to buy a new engine/dash wiring harness now before my engine is ready since I don’t know how long it will take, but if I do that I definitely won’t have the money for the engine parts... but it sure would be easier to install now... I suppose engine first, there’s plenty of room to work in that spacious compartment and I’ll most likely be searching drawers for spare change to pay for parts and the machine shop anyway!
  14. Hopefully things start looking up and I can have some fun driving instead of taking apart and putting back together!
  15. It’s out, what a battle. I had to cut the deck in front of the engine, but it can be welded back in easy. This thing is as heavy as it is long. Now just waiting on someone to take us to the machine shop
  16. If not for a stuck (now broken) and another now broken valve, I’d have a purring engine on my garage floor... tomorrow I’m going to go talk to a machine shop because I’ve had zero luck trying to save the money. I’m not planning to do a full rebuild on either because I literally can’t, but I can’t handle running into another brick wall with these, so off they go! The newer one is all taped and ready to go, but I hope to give them both when I pull the other and get back one that works. The new one has a gouge out of the #8 cylinder wall.... so the block from my stuck 48 will probably have to be used. Which probably means boring. Which probably means new everything.
  17. Chugging along: I picked up the free straight 8 from Georgia. Turns out it doesn’t have a hydramatic and I think it might be a 1950 or so, but it spins freely, came with a bunch of bolt-ons that I either didn’t have or didn’t have one as nice, and almost everything can be fitted onto it to suit the setup in my ‘48. I tried starting it yesterday and while there was definitely some combustion happening, it didn’t seem to want to start. When I took the manifolds off today I found a bunch of junk in about 3 of the intake ports so maybe that prevented firing rather than bad valves or bad rings. I hope. I just cleaned and painted the block today since my plan is to use the hydramatic and bell housing from my original engine on this and I already have my other manifold set and head painted, and carb rebuilt. I painted the bolt ons all gloss black and they’re baking in the sun right now. Tomorrow I’ll be doing the valves, hoping the seats aren’t trash and there’s no surprises when the head comes off. Then new gaskets, new head goes on, new manifolds on, new carb, and we’ll try it.
  18. Today was for getting the shift linkage off, removing the rest of the bolt-ons I want out of the way for drivetrain removal, and cleaning up my starter. The magneto shop usually gets the pleasure of cleaning and painting my starters, but this old beast still works so well I can’t justify the money for a rebuild right now. If anyone has experience disconnecting this type of u-joint, I’m all ears! It’s the last thing holding this show up.
  19. Working on getting the engine and transmission out right now. On the H.A.M.B., I found a super nice man who’s going to give me a straight 8 with hydramatic still attached, for free. I just have to drive to Georgia to pick it up. Hopefully that one will run well enough for fun while I rebuild the drivetrain I pull out. If anyone has ever pulled such a large and long engine/transmission out of a similar car and has pointers, please share them!
  20. Coyote- giving up isn’t in my vocabulary, I’m just saying this would go 20x faster if I could make some cash! In my spare hours (they’re precious few) on weekends where I’m not studying (also precious few), I’ve been working on a 1928 Model A Tudor, taking care of my 42 jeep, a 43 jeep, a 29 dodge brothers DA deluxe, and maybe some other stuff I can’t rmemeber right now. But spark plugs, gaskets, and shift cranes are relatively cheap and not time consuming to install and a model A distributor can literally be rebuilt in a field (I’ve done it). So im not giving up, I’m just waiting for the right opportunity to dive in on this!
  21. Ben, I’ve tried to use a pry bar to turn the fly wheel both ways. I tried to get a breaker bar on it to turn it over but in trying to get the harmonic balancer off, I cracked the pulley. That was pretty disheartening and with school, I have such little time that I think more and more about pulling the engine and transmission in the Louisiana heat when summer starts. I’m not sure I trust my 1 ton engine crane with this big ole drivetrain but we’ll see. Marvel in the cylinders may work out in the end but pulling it all may be easier. The other major issue is money. It’s impossible to have a job in med school so it really compounds my issues. I’m always breaking something and needing new parts. If y’all wonder why this hobby has little interest in younger people, it’s more expensive to live these days, harder to make good money without spending money (on education), and old cars are an expedient way to drain the money you set aside for “nonessentials.” Not giving up, but pulling this engine in my tiny, open garage won’t be a weekend job and definitely won’t be easy or cheap.
  22. I’ll thoroughly check the lifters and hit them with a penetrating lubricant. But even with those very bent valves the engine was free and even giving spurts of ignition.
  23. Stuck before cleaning back when I thought it was an electrical thing... amazing that it turned so smoothly when I saw how dirty some of these were. I’ve kept some kind of oil on the surfaces I’ve cleaned to prevent rust. Nothing heavy till I figured the pistons might be stuck.
  24. Ben, that’s correct. It even gave as much fire as it could with trashed valves before I removed the head and manifolds. When I get back out to the garage I’ll make a list of things that I cannot find mechanical blockage in and post it. Thanks for the ideas, keep ‘em coming!
  25. I was thinking (hoping?) maybe it had something to do with the transmission but strange as it sounds, this millennial is very familiar with (built a couple) manual transmission/clutch setups and doesn’t know jack about how this hydramatic works... the starter was the first thing I took off because I’ve had a Bendix drive hang up before. It had strange linkage and I found that you actually push the gears manually forward with the foot lever into the flywheel and they are brought back by a spring... so it wasn’t a Bendix issue! I want to pull it a little but it’s on a slight hill pointed at a street and it’s so big and heavy 😅