cevensky

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Everything posted by cevensky

  1. Thanks for the advice, Bloo. I think I’ll go with the brighter bulb. I went with red 1157 LEDs for tail lights because of the safety factor (they’re very bright). Apparently, I can use a regular flasher if I use incandescent or halogen bulbs in the front, but if I use LED (thereby making every bulb in the blinker circuit LED), there’s not enough resistance and an LED flasher must be used, but they can be got in 6V too. Went for a drive today... with headlights! These halogen are much brighter than the picture tells, even 6V. I highly recommend them. Didn’t take long to put them in, original dimmer switch, and a junction block from a Ford GPW.
  2. Jeff, still on 6. Wires from alt and from ammeter back to the starter post are 10 ga. The rest is 12 ga. wires: https://enginebarn.myshopify.com headlights: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233479105111 The tail lights will be LED. There’s great threads in here about using LED but you have to be careful to get it right. Question: for my turn signal, do the headlights get used as the front signal or is it the parking lights?
  3. Turns out I’m missing the lower chrome strip for the front doors. Let me know if anyone’s got some. I got new halogen headlights in (LED taillights and dash lights coming next week) and wired them up with original hardware. Here we are (notice the little bit of fun I had on the door handle/arm rest, don’t worry it’s just some scraps I had):
  4. Good question Jeff, but it’s have to be directed to someone more knowledgeable like Charles. All I can say is there’s little doubt in my mind that these panels were in this car when it left the Fisher factory and I didn’t change the style at all (save for my mistakes!). I’ve seen this seat fabric pattern in the Pontiac ads for 48, but other ads that can be found on google for 48 also show the more plush interior with the squares and a tufted seat back. Would love to hear what the experts have on this.
  5. Well, moving forward I know what to do and what not to do. The nylon Christmas trees worked like a charm (mostly). I’ll have to make the holes that accept them slightly smaller for a tighter fit. This panel is slightly too long, needs more curve where there is corner, isn’t thick enough or lacking support behind the handle bezels, and most obviously, the trim was put on crooked (feel free to laugh, I did). Not bad for a first attempt, 3 hours of my time, and maybe $15 of supplies. The other side will be modeled after this to get a more perfect fit.
  6. Cardinal, that’s kind of what I did... but I didn’t see your advice before I went ahead and made my first panel. I discovered there’s a metal piece on the original door card that I reused that clamps to the card, allows an anchor point for fabric, and then sits in a groove on the door itself. I went with only 5 or 6 Christmas tree fasteners through the new card since that lower piece supports the bottom and the window surround holds it up top so I’m not too worried. I was able to reuse all of the original chrome trim. Really, it’s quite similar to the original card in looks. Just a little more durable and easy to clean. There were a few mishaps, but overall I can’t believe someone wanted to charge me $700 to do the doors, it’s pretty easy. Might see if I can fit it on tomorrow night, it may require some cutting of the top edge. Let me know what y’all think, unfortunately the chocolate brown crocodile didn’t make it here for the lower trim. ALSO: the heater core under the seat puts off quite a bit of heat on my ankles... is there a control for it or is it always on...?
  7. A quick torque sequence and no more visible vapors from anywhere. I’m pretty convinced it won’t overheat in normal weather (stay tuned for a Louisiana summer). I began taking off a door panel, seeing that the nail trim inserts into metal, I’m thinking about using nylon push-in fasteners since I can drill holes and save the headache of lining up another nail strip. Anyone have any experience? The plastic I’m using for panels should be sturdy enough.
  8. That’s a lesson I learned on Model A’s, and I did have a little come out of this one’s overflow the first time starting it after the new water pump. Hasn’t happened since, but when I say I’m missing water, I mean the level drops to just below the baffle so there’s not any visible water. But yes, something that can’t be said enough. I got nervous when I saw coolant leaking after putting on a new water pump!
  9. Gary and others, thanks. I’m glad you all are enjoying seeing it inch back to life. The switch probably needs better grounding, but I got the dash lights to work again in one position of the rheostat. I’m going to order some LEDs for dash and rear lights, halogen for the front. I’ve got about 55 ft of cloth covered wire that will hopefully make it. Good suggestion on the flasher, Gary. I’m enjoying nightly rides, but noticed a little bit (inch or so) of coolant is missing every couple days with drives and after it gets hot, there’s a fair amount of visible exhaust from the blow-by tube and oil tube cap. Friend down the street pointed out I haven’t retorqued the head since rebuild and it’s probably losing through the gasket. So I’m hoping the visible exhaust is the water/coolant getting in there and boiling off. Is it normal to see exhaust out of these places? It’s relatively colorless. I still need to time with a timing light. In June I’m going to go get the rest of the trim and a new trunk door.
  10. Took a drive today to my parents’ for Mother’s Day. About 3 miles there and 3 back plus a little extra cruising. All went pretty much perfectly, although not everyone was impressed. Understandable. Painted the other three rims red and washed her up. Might invest in something to buff the paint that’s on there. I got the starter fixed up. It was hanging on the bolts that fix the flywheel to the fluid converter. Some of em are a little too long (oops that’s my fault). They put a spacer on but it still *just* hits those bolts, bad as it sounds I’ll probably let it wear in, it works good and starts right up. I also let them wire up my turn signal so when I get a 6v flasher (anyone have one?) I’ll get that put in. Did the light switch too, clock works, dash lights worked for a quick minute and now don’t 🤔 Anyway, nothing else is gonna happen for a while but some drives.
  11. Thanks John, today I finally got the float adjusted *just* right and she fired right up and ran good for about 20 minutes. What a difference a day makes! I hooked up the original temp sender and gauge and it reads about 180 after 15 minutes of idle which is not consistent with the direct non-electric gauge I had on there before. I’ll hook that back up to make sure the new pump is working well. With the type of plastic boards you panel a cheap stall shower with, I made carpet panels for the front and popped one on. Drove her down the driveway and backed in the garage, maybe I’ll take a Sunday drive or two during studying for my board exam this month. It all worked out great on timing!
  12. I had a qualifying exam yesterday, so I took the day off from studying. I installed my water pump (cut a nice new gasket) and starter. The starter is gonna have to come off and back to the shop, it sounds like a barrel of rocks. They do great work, it’s just my luck. Also some kind of blockage between or at the needle and the fuel line. I guess the needle is getting stuck, but it was free and dry when I put the carb back together and the needle was down... then no gas got into the carb but the fuel line from the pump had tremendous pressure built up. Weird. Guess a carb take apart tomorrow for the 9th time. I made some more wiring, cleaned up the engine compartment, and moved the coil. Did some bulbs for gauges and clock, and made some knobs today since it would cost me over $60 to get them, and the correct shifter knob isn’t even sold. made out of jb weld. Here’s my process. Slowly but surely that picture of my dashboard gets cleaner and more complete. Too bad the only thing that works is my radio!
  13. Between studying I took my new dash clock (I think it’s out of a 46 or 47, but fits the same, works, and just needed some copper paint. I’ll switch the center plate at some point but couldn’t be beat for $30 to my door) and my new-to-me gas pedal outside for install. No more duct tape! (Well there’s a little on the shifter knob still) I picked up my rebuilt starter and water pump earlier this week, $240 for both. I’m thrilled with that but won’t have time to install them soon. I also got a basically NOS light switch for a few bucks. Moving right along.
  14. Today I took my starter to the old-timey shop downtown. He said he does water pumps, so I came back 30 minutes later. He does great work and said even if a new shaft and bearing can’t be had, he can recondition what we have. Acme said a headliner would be $218, so I may be sold. Did one rim today in gloss cherry red, will have to deflate and get the crumbling fake white walls off.
  15. Thanks Bloo, I've just sent them an email since they don't seem to have anything other than VW headliners on their website. here is the link to the ebay listing I think I'm gonna use. They're close and seems reasonable to get it to my door for $260. (EDIT: just kidding, they don’t have the pattern for my car. C’est la vie.) Also, if Charles happens to read this, Wanda was very nice, but waited to quote me a price on the pump then called back with a price nearly comparable to the very expensive ones on eBay. I may yet have to buy from her, but Feltz of Terrill Machine in DeLeon, TX is very nice and he just texted me that they'll rebuild these for $130.
  16. Thanks for the source John, I don’t see anything beyond materials there. I’ve got a good source for a headliner but right now it looks like I’ll need a starter rebuilt and definitely my water pump, which will be $160 no matter how I cut it. Today I set the float on the carb and got the engine to run again, that was the issue. No more spurting gas but might have set the float too low... starter still shorts so I couldn’t restart it to adjust the mixture to keep it running. Cut the rest of the vinyl away. All original now, Fisher badge and tags on the seats and Murray tag on the springs. Unfortunately the water pump and starter will take all my money so upholstery will wait.
  17. Well, I guess leaving a part out of my carburetor wasn’t what caused it to spew gas everywhere once more. I think I have a float adjustment issue. So, I repaired my radio today, started troubleshooting the short in or around my starter, and experimented with painting hubcaps by spray and wipe or with a brush. Tomorrow if I have time I’ll adjust my float and hope that stops my carb throwing gas everywhere. I also spent some time cleaning and replacing spark plugs. They were all badly fouled. I’ve never been crazy about the upholstery on these seats, although it is easy to clean and I will be going with leather-look vinyl again, but today I sat in the back seat, it ripped, and with a pair of scissors I discovered all of the original upholstery is in not terrible shape and only a few cuts away! Here’s some pictures of what all I took off today.
  18. So after trouble shooting my gas pump, which checked out, and seeing that a new fuel filter was already black and gooey, I decided to take my carburetor off. it was filled with something like the consistency of pudding so obviously what I thought was “cleaning” my gas tank wasn’t anywhere near that. All hard lines are now installed to a 12 gal PVC tank my neighbor gifted me. It’s clean and I’ve installed a fancier in-line filter too. Carb is cleaned and put back together. I wanted to let it dry out a little (I left a component of the carburetor pump apparatus on my driveway, which resulted in a LOT of gas in and around my engine when I tried to start it again). Other than that, we have a full set of hub caps and I found what looks like a period turn signal in the trunk so I slapped that on. I’ll re-wire it when my wire gets here. Studying’s has me inside so I’ll go out and clean the plugs, fill up my new gas tank, and hopefully fire her up soon. I have bumper to bumper getting a water pump quote and am searching for a place to service my gas tank locally. I tried a type of fiber board at Lowe’s for upholstery panels but it was too brittle to hold nails, moving to plastic wall panels next. Coil spring? Taking her somewhere to have a new trunk floor fabricated? What do y’all think?
  19. Today I decided to install the plug wire harness from my spare engine I’d cleaned up. After it was all done, I tried to start the car. Nothing. I went through the ignition, tried different coils, pulled wires, sanded and reset the points, etc. Nothing. Over an hour of troubleshooting and still nothing. Looked in the carb and worked the throttle... nothing! Guess the last time I pulled in the garage was when I went through the five gallons of gas I put in earlier this month. In other news, I pulled my water pump to install the rear plate to housing gasket, but I saw the weep hole is the problem, so now I’m in the market for a new water pump that doesn’t cost $200+ if anyone has any leads. Next item on the list is fixing my pickup tube on my gas tank and seeing if the sending unit works. Obviously I need it!
  20. A couple quick adventures: Took it into the yard for a quick rinse the other day. I’ve been driving it up and down the street, my stalling issue on acceleration seems to be coming from the adjustment of the thermo-spring controlled choke being too open. Trying to hit the sweet spot of closed enough to not stall, but open enough to not have super rich exhaust. My last radio components arrived and I got it installed. It’s connected to the accessory position on my ignition and can be controlled completely from my phone and there can be some control from the selector knob on volume if you’re driving. It’s nice and loud, sounds good, and I have connections for two more speakers that I have tied off for now. Again, if anyone is interested, I could definitely rig up most similarly sized radios for bluetooth as a side gig. I accidentally broke a “Silverstreak” emblem taking it off to clean it. Snapped in three. So, I’m searching for that. upholstery material for door cards and 3 hubcaps are on the way. Also in need of a light switch! Accepting all donations 😆
  21. Well here we are. Last night I spent further gutting the already thoroughly damaged radio innards. I crammed two 80w speakers in there and have a 6v to 12v-10A step up converter on the way along with a 4-channel Bluetooth amplifier. The amp has an external, wired volume control that I’m going to bond to the “selector” knob on my original radio plate. Not only will it look completely original, it will serve some function too. I’ve circled in red where I bent the existing bracket to eventually use some JB weld putty to stick the volume control in place and to the control knob. Today, everything was dry enough to spray the gloss enamel on and seal it up. I had gotten the wiper motor working with some oil and no load on the arms, but putting it on the wiper blade arms made it stall so I’ll need a rebuild kit or new motor. After the enamel had dried, everything went in after I finished carpeting the drywall. The sides have to stay unfinished until I get the windlace (which connects on some brackets there and is needlessly pricey). So here it is:
  22. I spent today tweaking my still wet dash and glove box door. I dismantled the radio. I have neither the cash nor the desire to spend hundreds to get an AM radio restored. Instead, I’ve gutted the radio box (many of the internals were damaged, I’m not the first to poke around) and will put a small car speaker (or two) in there. I’ll leave all the controls and plates for looks. I’ll run a small marine Bluetooth amplifier in the radio box with the speakers on a 6 to 12v converter. I cleaned and painted the speaker faceplate and mocked up the dash. I also spent some time on the lucite wings. I flipped them over after sanding and Brillo padding the bad side with comet. I did drop and chip it but it wasn’t too bad. Just adds character. I also put some more bubble foil insulation on the firewall while the space is available. It went on right over the remarkably intact original pad. The more the merrier. I’ll screw some carpet up over this. Tomorrow I’ll do the clear coat on the dashboard and glove box, if they’re dry. They’re still tacky but I’ll leave them under the fan tonight.
  23. The woodgrain really wasn’t hard. I do suggest using some test panels of cardboard first. Basically start with a lighter brown spray paint (maybe a couple coats, the wood stain melts and strips it if it isn’t totally set, too. Then follow up with brushing (not a whole lot) wood stain over it in a rough pattern of what you want. There’s various tools to do this but I went with cheap rough chip brushes from harbor freight. For dark grains I put little tiny drops over the almost dried stain and brushed it once to give streaks of “black.” It was fun. Alternatively, send me your bare metal and I’ll charge you a cheap price for average looking wood grain! 😄
  24. Well I was going to woodgrain the dash in the car... ended up taking it out. I also painted some of the stuff in the car that gets the monotone treatment, along with an offwhite epoxy paint on the steering wheel. It’s my first attempt and I’m happy with it. Also, my wire wheel shined up the steering wheel chrome without scuffing it. I still don’t understand it but I’m not mad.
  25. Ben, the carb is all rebuilt and I know I’ve seen this squirt in the last month, but I’ll recheck. Fuel pump is also brand new. Maybe timing, maybe the choke plate needs adjusting back down to the closed position at rest a little more. We had to play with that to get the idle correct. Come to think of it, it was running so rich when I first got it to start that it could probably stand to have the plugs removed, cleaned, and gapped again. One or more may be badly fouled. Another source could be the junk in the inline filter constricting fuel flow, I need to check this too. Then I’ll find a fancy timing light to borrow. Thanks!