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jpage

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Everything posted by jpage

  1. I agree with Joe that rust must be eliminated completely to be effective. Depending on the part and the degree of corrosion, sand or soda blasting, chemical dipping or replacement may be necessary. I myself, am not keen on the rust stabilizers, but if it's gone, chances are that it won't come back to haunt you later!
  2. Looks like the later 7In headlamps were added!
  3. The raised, modern hot rod looking plaits are what's out of place. The seat looks good though!
  4. Off topic, but why would someone put all that money and effort into that car, then turn around and make incorrect door panels!
  5. If that metallic stripe is the plating showing through the decal, have your printer print the decals on clear transfer so the plating shows through. That's how the Dodge decals are done.
  6. In my opinion, if you want to remove the rust, the best way is to sandblast the parts, then finish like any other metal parts. That will give the best results. If you wish to keep the 'patina', clean the panels well and the topcoat with clear.
  7. Talk about stupid things. Years ago, I worked in a popular local auto supply store. The owner's son also worked there for a time. This kid marched to a different drum. So one day, a customer bought several long pieces of premade brake line from this kid. After making the sale, he found a thin box, folded up the lines and stuffed them into the box so they would be easier to carry! You should have seen the look on the customers face! Priceless!
  8. I may have a couple but they won't be perfect and may have to be restored!
  9. All of the garnish mouldings and the dashboard itself were painted woodgrain. The ash trays, box doors and instrument panel were nickel plated and covered in a woodgrained transfer. Diran Yazejian used to make and sell these beautiful decals and no longer offers them, but his components are for sale. I need one of his original ash tray decals myself! Your best bet now, would be to take an original piece to a good sign shop and see if they could make replica decals for you. I had that done for the instrument faces on my car. Here is a shot of the gauge faces and the transfer. If needed, I have
  10. I know of at least 6 cars squirreled away within 2 blocks from my house . A '32 DeSoto 4 door sedan, a '29 (?) Chandler 4 door sedan, a '47-'48 DeSoto Club Coupe, 1931-31 Model A 4 door sedan( Murry, I think), '51-'52 Ford F1 pickup and I can't remember the specifics on the later model ones. All of them need restored but are in fair shape, and I'm told most are for sale, but asking prices seem high. The '32 Desoto and the Chandler had been running recently. There are lots of old cars around here, but prying them from their owners fingers can be quite a chore, especially at a fair price!
  11. Forums like these are invaluable to the hobby! Aside from being a parts source, I have made connections with folks who share my interests in the car that I have that I could have never made without the forum. We have the opportunity to meet people from all over the world, to experience the great talents of others, such as Roger Zimmerman and his models, and to glean information like never before. I'd be lost without this venue and the folks I have meet here! Keep up the great work!
  12. If you are using a reproduction cap, make sure that it fits the dist. body tightly and that all the contacts are the same distance from the rotor. Some of the new caps are so poorly made that they move and are not concentric which can give you fits. Also, sometimes when using some of the replacement upper plates, the contacts can short out diminishing spark. Also, did you take out all of the rotor backlash after timing? You may also have a loose contact in the dist. These are just guesses though!
  13. I've had parts primed with self etching primer for almost 15 years with no issue. I'd just scrub them down well to get the dirt and film off of them, scuff them down and reshoot with a good primer. If you are doing any filler work on them, do it before the final primer coats. If there is a substantial amount of rust, then your best bet would be to reblast them. After the primer sets then finish coat them.
  14. Easiest just to remove the toe board! That can be done from the inside
  15. Do you know if the starter and rod are the same as '36 Dodge cars? If so , I may have some parts.
  16. Judging from the photos of a rough casting, there seems to be way too much finish work to make it affordable or practical. With the amount of good original engines still available and the cost to rebuild an original it seems more prudent to stay with an original engine, if for no other reason than keeping a good car original. Today it's so hard to find an "A" that hasn't been upgraded some how to make it drive more like a modern car! I say, if you want to drive a more modern car, then buy one! A correctly rebuilt and maintained original engine will most likely out last the owner, especially as
  17. Head torque is 65-70 ft.lbs.
  18. You have to watch the weave. Fabrics like mohair are graded by what they call 'grin', which is how dense the nap is. You can tell buy folding the material over in and seeing how much gap is between the rows. The material I purchased has virtually no grin running the width of the material but is more pronounced along the length. This will definitely affect the amount of material needed so there are no unsightly folds visible. I also found out that much of the lower grade or faux mohair does not have woven fibers, they are glued onto the backing. This may be satisfactory for curtains but it won'
  19. jpage

    Sun visors

    I know that I don't have any complete ones.
  20. jpage

    Sun visors

    Do you need the entire visor or just parts .I may have some frames from a '36 Dodge. I'll check.
  21. I agree, you'll never match the same material or color. Don't use faux anything as you can still get the real thing. PM me as I just went down this rabbit trail.
  22. jpage

    P2 heater

    Any 6 vt blower type motor should work, although you may have to fashion a holding bracket. You may be able to find a new motor at NAPA , Rock Auto or on the internet..
  23. You might have better luck using hole punches, or taking a piece of small tubing, sharpening one end and use it in the drill press rather than the bits. Bits tend to grab and tear where a smooth sharp edge should cut better. Like the sharp disc blades for cutting hose.
  24. Sounds like a plan, although, they can be a little difficult to drill. Good luck! With these cars, ya' gotta' do what ya' gotta' do!
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