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Scott Bonesteel

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Everything posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. I agree with broker-len that windlacing was used around the door opening. It is still available from most upholstery suppliers/shops and is basically a rubber foam rod covered in material. It is typically not attached to the door itself but is tacked under the edge of headliner and door pillar material. On 33 and 34 Plymouths and Dodges there is also a 'reveal', recessed area on the bottom inside of the door where a circa 2 1/2" rubber piece is clipped to the bottom of the door itself, extending below the bottom of the door circa 3/4" that is flexible enough to seal the bottom of the door where it adjoins the door sill. I think these are made by Steele and other suppliers but they can be easily fabricated from flat rubber stock, circa 1/8" thick. See the attached photo of a 33 door for sale elsewhere on this forum and you can see where the rubber seal is installed, holes for the clips being visible. Runs the length of the bottom of the door and then turns up the front curve of the suicide door about 4". Not sure if the PA has this but if so it probably just runs along the bottom of the door if so. Not home now but will shoot you a picture of one installed on one of my 34s if interested.
  2. Looks like a 33 PD convertible coupe. Not a 32 because that year had a windshield post that was part of the body. Doesn't look like a 34 because the door top garnish molding is thin, 33 style rather than the wider 34 style. Can't see the front of the inside door panel which would tip it off, the winder for the vent window would be seen (which doesn't exist on the 33 PD Plymouth). Could also be the equivalent 33 Dodge convertible coupe. Only other potential is an early 30s Chevy convertible which had a similar windshield post. My vote goes to the 33 Plymouth PD convertible coupe.
  3. Assuming this is running its original artillery wheels, this would be a 34 or 'first series' 35. I believe the 33s all had wire wheels with smaller hubcaps. In addition, it is running a 34 rear bumper, tapered at the end, as opposed to the squared off end found on the 33s. Great graphics on the side and those rare but somewhat anachronistic carriage lamps. Finally, a 33 would be a HCL and this would be a 34 KCL, as it is mounted on the long, 119" wheelbase.
  4. Here is the 34 PE Plymouth Convertible Coupe drawing from the original sales brochure and you can see that the reveal is painted a different color. Also shows the windshield in folded position.
  5. That 'reveal' on the body was painted a contrasting color, mostly to match up with the convertible top. Tops from the factory were always a light canvas color. Note that the 34 PE Plymouth was not a 'roadster' as it had roll up windows in the doors, what the Ford guys call a 'cabriolet'. What differs from the Ford cabriolets is that the Plymouth windshield folds down for a complete 'topless' experience. The knobs located at the base of the windshield posts can be loosened and the posts, along with the windshield, fold down. Like the rest of the 34 PE and PF Plymouths, the windows in the doors had both roll up windows and quarter vent windows. With both windows in the closed position, a lever on the window frame can be moved, which allows both the vent and the regular window to be wound down into the doors. Great original photo!
  6. These are 34s, not 35-36. Center on 34 is two-piece and the hubcap snaps into the outer piece with clips on the caps themselves. The 35-36 is a single-piece center, with clips riveted onto the outer side to clip to the hubcaps, which have no clips. If you look on the inside piece on the 34s (from the outside) there is often '34' stamped into the steel center, between the lug holes. Wheels are usually 4x16, which is stamped on the inside of the rim.
  7. Another wheel failure to be aware of is one I have seen on 34 Mopar artillery rims, which have a tendency to crack around the bolt holes, circular cracking just outside of the ridge on the inside of the rim. I have seen this with stock bias ply 600-16 tires and with radials. Managed to catch this on my PE sedan during a routine check and have seen it on multiple swap meet rims. The 35 artillery wheels, which look basically the same with the hubcaps on, don't seem to have this problem, but they are one-piece centers as opposed to the 34s, which are two piece. Accordingly, I now run 35 rims on my 34s.
  8. The Plymouth Club Judging Standards for the 33 and 34 convertible coupes say the rear window should be 6" x 24". Bare frames show up in that size from time to time on ebay, etc. SMB
  9. A few more, again, not my car but is a 33 convert.
  10. Not my cars but these photos might help. 33 Plymouth convertible coupes. Have top irons if you need photos of those as well. SMB
  11. Just a note in passing: Those caps will fit but they are car caps. There is a long discussion on this topic elsewhere in this forum. Truck caps are similar but do not have the raised section or the < and >. There is a line surrounding the lettering, pointed on either end. See attached. A little tougher to find but still out there. Good luck.
  12. The wheels in that picture are '12-hole' which I believe are 17", not 16". The 16" ones have 10 holes.
  13. Looks like they are restored but see my posting from today in 'Not My Car' autos for sale, two 1932 CP8s. SMB
  14. See attached, estate sale in La Mesa California, just east of San Diego. Not much info beyond pictures, look like nice cars, I don't have enough garage space. Starts tomorrow, sorry for the late notice but I just saw. https://www.estatesales.net/CA/La-Mesa/91941/2854566
  15. My guess is they are for a boat since each 'set' is marked green and red for, respectively, starboard and port.
  16. On the keyed handle, although you seem to have done some of this, look for the oldest lock and key place you can find, usually in the 'old part of town'. Those folks typically have the staff that have been around long enough to have seen it all. Not in your area but what I found was ABC Lock & Key in San Diego (CA, not Texas) where I am located. They were able to re-key an outside locking handle for my 34 Dodge panel, which has basically the same lock as your 33. They also were able to re-key some 34 Plymouth Yale Omega 'bent key' locks, even had a couple of boxes of uncut keys on their wall, which has key blanks going back into the teens. These guys are fantastic but are getting old and last time I went by there the store was closed (but still there and stocked). Must be somebody like that in Texas. https://www.yelp.com/biz/a-b-c-lock-and-key-shop-san-diego
  17. I have used a couple of these replacement keepers--they fit and work really well.
  18. Perfect Circle Piston Rings logo.
  19. OK, here is a series of photos of a 34 door latch taken from the driver's side, front, which should be about the same as your 33 since it does not have the outside door lock components that are on the passenger side 34. You can see the square hole where the handle shaft comes in from the outside. As I suggested and as Jack M noted, some wiggling of the handle, coupled with some WD40, should remove the outside handle once you remove the two outside screws. On the latch assembly, you can see all of the 'wear' points which would drag and restrict the shaft returning to the full 'up' position. What is most likely source, however, is that the curlicue return spring you can see in the picture is either worn out or broken. Easy to replace, clean and lube the entire assembly and you should be good to go. These springs are available almost everywhere, ebay, Mopar part sellers, etc.
  20. I guess I would try to find out why the handles are not returning to full up first. They are only connected to the inside handle by a flat bar and a bell crank, so I don't think those would be the problem. I have taken the inside handle posts off before and that is easy, very accessible. If you are in there you might want to check the springs which 'lock' the inside handles, those are notorious for breaking/wearing out and are easily replaced. My guess is that the problem is in the door latch itself, which is what the shaft from the outside handle goes directly into. If the square bushing that it goes into is worn out, then you probably will have to remove the latch assembly and repair/replace. I would first loosen, but not remove, the screw heads in the door jamb that hold the assembly in place and shoot it full of your favorite 'loosener', be it WD40 or Kroil. Grab the tongue of the latch and make sure it is not 'cocked' in the hole and hanging up. Work the assembly with the handle to make sure everything is working. If that doesn't fix it, my recollection is that there is a spring in the assembly that accomplishes the 'return' of the tongue and handle. That may be broken or simply worn out. Don't have one in front of me right now but I seem to recall such an assembly. No removal 'tricks' that I can recall offhand but I assume that you should run the window all the way up so that the track and arms are clear of the latch. Lock is in the handle assembly so no need to remove the separate lock assembly in the door like on the 34. Make sure your tetanus shots are up to date and dive in. SMB
  21. I have a couple of 34s and some 33 doors and I believe they all come apart the same. Outside handles are held on by the two screws on the outside of the car. The inside handles are held on by a cross pin through the shaft on the inside. Need to press the inside escutcheon plate in far enough so the pin can be seen and then simply push it out. This is difficult sometimes due to the type of upholstery in place--if it is too thick it is hard to push the escutcheon plate in far enough to clear the pin. There are tools made for this that work quite well, see internet/ebay. 33 door doesn't have vent windows, but if that is what you have those handles come off with a visible set screw, the escutcheon is simply held on with the handle. The door card/panel is held in place by the window garnish, which is easy to remove by taking out the visible screws. The panel itself is held in along the sides and bottom with clips--simply slide a putty knife or screwdriver into the edge and pry out. Try to keep your pry device immediately adjacent to the clips--if you get too far away from it and the clip is being stubborn, you can risk punching through the door card. The bottom edge is also held on by clips but there should be a sheet rubber gasket along the bottom as a draft stop. Same approach with the clips. If you need to take the door lever machinery apart, that is all held on with screws that are obvious once the door card is off. The door latch itself, which may be the source of the problem, is removed by screws visible in the door jamb. Have fun.
  22. Fuel pump with a combined vacuum pump on the bottom, probably to power windshield wipers.
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