lattrm

Thanks Joe, I started with HAMB first and was afraid I wouldn't be able to find the correct yoke as there seems to be some confusion on what fits and what doesn't. Apparently, there are a lot that are close to fitting but have the wrong spline style so may fit but will wear out after a short time. I just wanted to see the part before I bought one and fortunately, I was able to find a yoke that fit at a local junk yard. It was in with a bucket of other yokes that didn't fit so not sure what the one I bought was from but all good for now.

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm not sure about the background story on the car or trans in my initial post. I found it online for sale and the output shaft looked similar to the 1950 Olds transmission I'm working on. Just hoping that I could find a part close enough to be made to work.

Thanks so much for the offer. I'm going to try my local junkyard before I bug anyone else for parts but will definitely reach out if I strike out locally.

That's where I was going to try first. The guy on the phone didn't have any parts for the olds transmission but said he had a bucket full of slip yokes that I can search through and a whole bunch more installed on yard cars. Just hoping to have a plan before I go out there.

Thanks for the info. That's the problem I'm finding with trying to get a slip yoke for this project (thought that part would be easy but not so much) For this trans tailshaft, the splines are 16 splines and cut on a taper .985" min ID and 1.169 major diameter. The more common GM transmissions for that time have 16 splines with straight cut grooves instead of taper cut. I can probably do other machine work as needed but hoping to get a spline with the correct engagement.

Thanks Matt. That definitely looks like the car. The transmission has GM letters on it. Think that's just a coincidence or did Plymouth use GM transmissions or maybe the car had a swap at some point during its life?

Any help with identity of this car? It's in a junkyard without any tags or ID. I'm trying find a slip yoke for a 1950 Oldsmobile transmission and not able to find that but, the trans output shaft on this car looks similar but of course the slip yoke is gone. If I can find the car, I may be able to track down a slip yoke for my project.

I'm doing pretty good on my bucket list so far but the one car that I'd really like is an early steam powered Locomobile or early Stanley. I would argue that they are very environmentally sound too for a modern audience. They are multi fuel, last for more than 100 years and they don't take up much room in an urban landscape.

Thanks for the comment. The overall cost was high but I would be OK with that if they hadn't switched cases on me. I did tell the shop owner that it was a no serial number case and he even had it in his notes which he admitted. It's hardly a matter to sue over but really annoying. I wonder if I can shot peen the serial number off and have it still look like a casting or something like that? Other than that, maybe I can find a NOS case and switch the guts. Should have done the rebuild myself in the first place.

I’m rebuilding a 1950 Allard K2 which originally used a standard Ford 3 speed topload transmission with a Lincoln Zephyr gear set. After some research, guys told me that the English built Allard uses the same trans as the US built cars but the Allard didn’t have a serial number stamped on the transmission case as the vehicle ID was stamped on a tag on the vehicle firewall. OK no problem, after a year of searching, paying too much and, driving 600 miles, I found a no serial number 1939 Ford transmission that was used but in really nice shape. I also found a NOS set of LZ gears and was ready for the swap. I really wanted the transmission to be rebuilt correctly so I talked to the owner of a Ford transmission repair shop and he said he understood what needed to be done and said it was no problem and he could credit my job with any useable parts from the core transmission. So boxed up the trans, new LZ gears and other parts and sent it off to be rebuilt. When the shop received the transmission, they said it was an early ’39 transmission so needed some additional parts. I didn’t know the difference between early and late transmission internals so trusted the shop and said fine, go ahead and rebuild the transmission. About a month later, I got a call from the shop owner saying that the transmission was done and none of the parts inside were any good so no credit value for the old parts. I asked to return the old parts anyhow because you never know… When the transmission was returned, the rebuild shop had swapped my transmission case with someone else’s transmission so now the core that I paid top dollar was gone and replaced with a common transmission with a big 18-48XXXXX serial number very conspicuously stamped above the clutch inspection cover. Also, my very nice shifter lever wasn’t returned and only the old cluster gear was returned for old parts. I did call the shop and ask why they rebuilt and sent me someone else’s transmission and I got a page long email that basically said they aren’t going to do anything to make things right. So after $3,500 in cost plus another $250 that I need to spend to buy a shift lever and 600 miles to pick up the correct core part for my car, I have a regular old Ford transmission. The rebuilt transmission seems OK so I don’t have any complaints about that but it’s just the wrong transmission which really annoys me. What would you guys do?

The thing that baffles me the most is that there is so much attention paid to the carburetors and carb arrangements and it looks like all the exhaust systems are all the same with only 3 exhaust ports - so assuming siamesed exhaust passages and the really the worst afterthought of an exhaust mainfold. It's just a log with 3 side entry ports. Every engine designer knows that when you put air in, it has to go back out. A little more pressure driving the flow on the outlet but still, this design isn't really allowing the engine to breathe for a special head design for a sports car.

I've recently been interested in Nash Healey cars and noticed many variations of cylinder head and carburetor configurations. From what I can tell, the most popular is an aluminum head with 2 carburetors but there is a narrow-spaced or wide-spaced 2 carburetor placement and the carburetors were sidedraft either SU or Carter YH. I also see that there is a 3 sidedraft carburetor head with either SU or Carter sidedraft carbs. And finally a cast iron head with narrow spacing and Carter carbs. I suspect that's from an Ambassador but not sure. Are there more variations? What is the reason for so many variations? Was it a model year or an option? Something else? Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.

Just got a set of NOS intake mainfolds for my Allard project. The car originally had an Ardun/Ford so trying to go back to that. Original carburetors would have been Solex but I think I may go with Strombergs. I included a photo for reference on how the engine should look when it's done.

Just ran across this topic and know it's old but I did find an inexpensive and handy solution. I bought a tie rod end puller from Harbor Freight for $12 and trimmed the claw ends a bit to fit in the groove on the hub. It worked great.

Here's a cool one for you. A Miller updraft. Somewhere deep in the catacombs, I have a really nice Miller Master and another modified Miller that looks like an early attempt for fuel injection. It has a large needle valve that opens in concert with the cylindrical air valve to let in fuel from a pressure source.