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carbking

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carbking last won the day on December 15 2016

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  • Birthday 04/12/1946

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  1. From my website: 1968 Buick carburetors 1968 6 250 A/T Rochester MV 7028014 2454 1968 6 250 S/T Rochester MV 7028047 2455 1968 8 350 A/T Rochester QJET 7028244 1820 1968 8 350 A/T Rochester 2-GV 7028140 2456 1968 8 350 S/T Rochester 2-GV 7028141 2457 1968 8 350 S/T Rochester QJET 7028245 1819 1968 8 400 Early A/T Rochester QJET 7028242 1821 1968 8 400 Early S/T Rochester QJET 7028243 1821 1968 8 400 Late A/T Rochester QJET 7028246 1818 1968 8 400 Late S/T Rochester QJET 7028247 1818 1968 8 430 Early A/T Rochester QJET 7028240 1821 1968 8 430 Late A/T Rochester QJET 7028248 1818 Jon.
  2. Matt - before throwing rocks at the carb, check the fuel pressure. That carb likes 2~3 psi, and does NOT like 4 psi. There was a vendor building fuel pumps and selling kits whose philosophy was "if the part fits, its the right part"! I have seen some of their pumps put out ridiculous pressures. Not going to light anyone up; fuel pressure is easy to test. Fuel coming out the vent indicates bad float (I hope not), bad fuel valve, bad float adjustment, or too much fuel pressure. You might get lucky. At this stage, would say you are entitled to some good luck! Jon
  3. Matt - I am rather late to this thread, and don't really want to read 17 pages of posts. You mentioned running hot, and the carb needing choke. My guess would be you will find your issues in other than the carb, but two things come to mind concerning the carb: (1) Lincoln used a number of different Stromberg type EE-22 carbs. The earlier ones had internal venturii of 1 3/32 inches. The later ones including yours would have come with venturii of 1 3/16 inches. The fraction size is cast on either one side of the bowl, or the end of the bowl. For decades, less than honest (or possibly knowledgeable) individuals have sold these old carburetors by type rather than application. If the owner's manual said Stromberg EE-22, then obviously ANY EE-22 would be correct. (2) For some time, a "2-ball" aftermarket fuel valve was popular. Will comment ONLY that we sold a lot of rebuilding kits to folks to replace these things as they would not allow sufficient fuel flow for the larger engines. If fuel flow is insufficient, then the fuel bowl level would be low, and choke would be required. Jon
  4. Dennis - I honestly don't know. I do know that "sizes" in this time period violate the "truth in advertising" idea. If it were mine, I would try to find another Studebaker owner that thinks he has an original, and get pictures and measurements. Jon.
  5. Dennis - I have 147 different NUMBERED Schebler model R carburetors in my database; plus a host of others that I have no numeric reference. Of course, Schebler did not deem it necessary to put the numbers on the carburetors. Have fun trying to identify them. The one used by Studebaker on the 354 is one for which I have no number. Jon.
  6. My guesses, in order: (1) choke not functioning normally (2) partially clogged fuel filter (3) distributor plate wear (4) intermittent blockage in fuel tank Jon
  7. Dennis - I have a LOT of Schebler literature, but documentation on the type R is sketchy, at best. To the best of my knowledge, you are correct about 4 different sizes. Jon.
  8. What a horrible thought!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I don't care anything about those that don't!! Jon.
  9. But Bernie - if you do that you don't bend the rods, and I don't get to sell new ones Jon
  10. Some really good information in this thread, but some of even the good information is based on guesses. From your posts, I don't know enough about your engine to make a specific recommendation Some information: The quadrajet many are suggesting is a spread-bore carburetor. Buick used a spread-bore intake as original equipment. Edelbrock, possibly others, sold an aftermarket square-bore intake. So the first question: is your intake a square-bore or a spread-bore? For a time, Edelbrock sold imitation quadrajets. Edelbrock still sells imitation AFB's. So second question: is your Edelbrock an imitation AFB (square-bore) or imitation quadrajet (spread-bore). Regardless, Edelbrock has had sealing issues where the carburetor bolts to the intake UNLESS THE GASKET SUPPLIED WITH THE INTAKE IS USED! As others have mentioned, a leak here would cause a high, less than smooth idle. As mentioned by others, the imitation AFB's and imitation quadrajets were/are BOTH CALIBRATED FOR SMALL BLOCK CHEVY! Can one be recalibrated to work well on a Buick? Maybe, genuine AFB's and genuine quadrajets can be, but machine work and a BUNCH of parts would be necessary. Example: the 1965 Chevrolet used a genuine Carter 625 CFM AFB number 3720. In 1965, Buick used a genuine Carter 625 CFM AFB number 3921. To make the 3720 perform well on the Buick, one would have to change the primary clusters, the secondary clusters, the primary jets, the secondary jets, the step-up rods, the step-up piston springs, and most importantly, the auxiliary air-valve! Why bother??? As far as the "mechanics" laughing at you if you asked about a Q-Jet, everyone has their favorite, and some shops sell either the Edelbrock or the Holley, thus have an ax to grind. But think about this: virtually every production car with a 4-barrel carburetor sold in the USA by 1972 used a spread-bore. There are a very few exceptions (mostly those the manufacturers know will be circle-track raced). Buick used a Q-Jet on their "Stage 4", Pontiac used a Q-Jet on their "Ram Air IV", both high performance engines. A "mechanic" that would laugh at the Buick or Pontiac performance engineers will get none of my business. As far as your having issues with two used Q-Jets that ran poorly: there is no such thing as a usable "used" carburetor until it has been rebuilt because of what passes for gas (no pun intended) the last 30 years. Turn the clock back to the 1950's, and one could install a used carburetor, and expect good to excellent results. Also, were the Q-Jets used correct for the engine make, type, and displacement? As to your idea of doing more tuning before thinking about a carburetor: YES, totally agree! I would have to be shown that the unit ran "fine" until the problem started, but if it ran to YOUR satisfaction, that is all that really matters. Should you be unable to get your current set-up running to your satisfaction, I will be happy to offer advice with no obligations, as long as you don't ask about the imitations, which are permanently banned from our shop. I will not help you try to tune the imitation. Will need to know what intake you are using (and wish to use), and any major modification (i.e. camshaft) to your engine. 573-392-7378 (9-12, 1-4 Mon-Tues central time). Jon
  11. The 24mm carb should work well up to a certain RPM, and then will probably just not rev any higher. Some power will be lost, and top speed will be lower than normal. Up to that point, should do very well. As I posted earlier, Chrysler found the 24mm to be too small, and switched to a 26mm venturi. Have seen very few quality control issues with genuine Zenith carbs, but I guess everyone has a bad day! Jon.
  12. Probably, if you (or a friend) is a carburetor specialist, and one of you has a carburetor machine shop. Personally, I would not want to do it, especially outside of the USA. You have identified some differences. Others: External: automatic choke hook-up, carburetor mounting to manifold (you will probably have to fabricate an adapter plate). Yes, the bolt pattern is the same, but the carburetor footprint is different. Internal: the calibrations are just plain different. The 1972 is a smog engine, the 1966 is not. That carburetor, unmodified, is going to be leaner than Jack Sprat! Idle tubes, idle air bleeds, main metering jets, primary metering rods, secondary metering rods, vacuum piston spring, and probably the secondary hanger will all require changing. I would look for a 1968, 1969, or 1970 Buick carburetor (no, I don't have one for sale). Jon
  13. I answered your question as to model, and possible source; however: It is quite possible you are blaming the wrong culprit. I can see nothing about the carburetor that would not like the humidity. On the other hand, Plymouth has been infamous for more than 75 years for not starting easily in humid weather. My Dad used to say if a dog urinated on a Plymouth tire, the car would not start! It was a common saying in north central Missouri where I grew up (and probably elsewhere). About 50 years ago, some Plymouth enthusiast found that the factory location of the coil on many 1930's and 1940's Plymouths was under a spot in the hood where humidity would condensate, and drip on the coil. Relocating the coil would solve the problem! Perhaps this is your issue. There is absolutely no doubt that the 4A2 and 4A3 mentioned above are technologically superior to the 209s. However, either is expensive due to "numbers-matching" folks, and if you have an electrical issue replacing a decent carburetor with a better carburetor will not solve the issue; just make your wallet thinner I would suggest checking out the ignition system before spending the money for either of the 2 PB carbs. Jon.
  14. Carter 4A2 was used from PB-1001 through PB-32668. Carter 4A3 superseded 4A2 beginning with PB-32669. Carter 4A3 had major calibration changes: idle leaner, main metering leaner, power richer. Either could be calibrated either way. I have both. Jon.
  15. The picture indicates the carburetor is missing. Carburetor information on White is very sketchy; but the original for the GEC engine was probably a single barrel updraft rotary throttle carburetor made by White. The S.A.E. flange size would have been a 3 (2 15/16 inch center-center bolt spacing). Finding one of these just might be more difficult than winning an argument with the I.R.S.!!!! However, from a standpoint of getting the engine running; in 1922 Zenith released a special package carburetor for the GEC engine. This was a single barrel updraft plain tube carburetor of type U6, with a 25mm internal main venturi. While not common, these CAN be found if one looks sufficiently hard. The White carburetor pictured by Ed in a different thread had two air inputs, a primary and a secondary. Some folks will call these two-barrel carbs (I personally spent a lot of time looking for documentation on a 4-barrel used on an early Oldsmobile). Turned out to be an over-zealous Olds enthusiast calling the Penberthy (D)ouble (V)enturi a four-barrel because of dual air intakes. Conventionally, the number of barrels are the number connected to the intake manifold. Rotary throttle carburetors have had some discussion on these forums. I personally believe if you use one, it should be on a gasoline truck, with a direct feed from the GASOLINE tank to the gasoline tank! Stock in Shell Oil wouldn't hurt. Typically, the rotary throttle carbs run very well at wide open throttle, but not nearly so well at anything but wide open throttle. Anyway the Zenith might be a stopgap for you while searching for an original carburetor. EDIT: read additional information from the fine print in this Zenith manual. Zenith showed the GEC engine used from 1914 through 1917; however the U6 carburetor listed above was released ONLY for 1915 though 1917. No replacement was listed for 1914. This manual has installations back to and including the 1911 model year; so must be some reason Zenith did not recommend this carb on the 1914. Jon.
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