carbking

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carbking last won the day on December 15 2016

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  1. No. My vote is with Matt on the electronics. Since the mid-1980's, I have been telling enthusiasts that original idle speed solenoids for 1970's cars are not available. How many "computers" are on the newer cars. Quite honestly, I would much rather drive my 1998 Ford Ranger than my 2014 Ford Explorer. One person cannot drive the explorer. It requires two: one to watch the road, and one to watch and adjust the *&^%$#$%^&*(*&^% electronic touch panel! If only one person in the car, that one needs to pull to the side of the road to adjust the defroster, or even to change the radio station! The vehicle is dangerous! Probably as much so as texting while driving! Jon.
  2. The throttle shaft and throttle plates are unique to some of the rear carbs used on the compound carburetor. The screws are the standard Stromberg 6/32 oval head brass screw. If you do not find the shaft and plates, I have a rebuilt 7-43 available. Jon.
  3. With respect to other's adjustment procedures, I prefer: (1) disconnecting linkage from both carbs (leave it off completely). (2) adjust idle mixture screws (all) at 1 turn (at this point, doesn't matter if too rich, only that they are the same). (3) now use the Uni-Syn to balance the carbs. (4) install the linkage on one carb, and fasten it in place. (5) adjust the linkage such that it slips onto the second carb with no movement of either throttle arm (a tach should show no RPM variation). (6) now ready to adjust mixture screws, and curb idle. Once the engine is turned off and cooled, the fast idle may be adjusted. The reason I like to have the linkage totally removed is that I am CERTAIN that the rod isn't going to hang up somewhere and give me a false reading. I don't even like to think about adjusting the linkage on a 1958 Pontiac tripower at roughly 2 A.M. the day before one of the POCI conventions! ☹️ Jon.
  4. Tom, I no longer rebuild any carbs, due to demand on my time for the manufacture of rebuilding kits. Welding skills??? My welding skills consisted of a checkbook, and a trip to a welding shop. My own welding appeared like the underside of the desk I inherited in third grade! But the welding is not that difficult. Weld the hole completely full, and then re-machine the casting. Have had to do that to more than one AFB, where some "mechanic" drilled out a main metering jet. Jon.
  5. I think you need different linkage, but in the meantime, remove the linkage from one carb, loosen ALL of the nuts attaching both carbs to the intake, and with a helper, push both carbs toward each other and then tighten all of the nuts. There is a tiny bit of play in the carb throttle body to the studs. You might get enough slack to do some testing; but I would highly recommend redoing the linkage. Multiple carb linkage is very easy to fabricate. If you wish, give me a call during normal business hours, and I will explain. Then, if you wish, you can type it in this thread. Jon
  6. Might be easier, and definitely less expensive, to fix the one you have. Jon.
  7. Dating the Detroit Lubricator carburetors can be tricky, as DL made running changes. Note that the replacement blank dataplates (bowl covers) have been available for decades. Also note, that due to the value, enterprising individuals, some honest and unknowing, others uncaring, have been "marrying" DL Packard carburetors for years. However, if one were to find a truly original Detroit Lubricator type 51 for Packard, it could have been identified by the stamping on the dataplate. The stamping on original Packard DL carbs identifying the production date was in the format myyiii, where m is a character representing the month (A=Jan, B=Feb, etc.), yy is the last 2 digits of the year, and iii represented the DL identification number (on modern carbs, this would be a tag number or list number). A couple of examples: A31758 - A is January, 31 is the last two digits in 1931, and 758 is the identification number. This carb was used on the 826 and 833 in January only of 1931. B31759 - B is February, 31 is the last two digits in 1931, and 759 is the identification number. This carb was used on the 826 and 833 in February only of 1931. I will grant that it is difficult to follow, but I have posted the dates and id numbers in the Packard section of my kit catalog HERE Stampings on DL carbs for Graham and Cadillac used different formats. Stamps on older Stewart (Division of Detroit Lubricator) carbs on Chrysler, Dodge, Essex, Hudson, etc. SOMETIMES followed the same format as Packard. Jon
  8. Cannot help with this one, however: I don't remember the year (time flies when you are having fun ), but maybe early 1990's, received a call from a good customer that had bought a bunch of carburetors from an auction at the Henry Ford museum, thinking they should be saved from destruction, and hoping I would want them. I really didn't at the time, but I did anyway; and he sent them to me. Turns out, they were all prototypes, or experimental carbs, that never made production. Holley, Kingston, and Stewart-Warner were represented. A few years later, Holley was setting up their museum, and the Holley versions ended up there. I still have most of the Kingston (including a prototype downdraft two-barrel for the flathead Ford), and the Stewart-Warner carbs. I do not recognize the unit pictured. Jon.
  9. It is from a National Service Manual. EDIT: Jeff - just reread your first post. I believe National started as Reed with the wiring diagrams back in the 'teens. There are several manuals from this time, and they didn't start covering carbs until (memory ?) 1930. These are large manuals, and yes, they cover much more than carbs. I have a complete set for sale up to sometime in the 1950's. Jon.
  10. One is all that is required, move it from carb to carb, and back again as necessary. Jon.
  11. Don't know if Oldsmobile covered this in their shop manual or parts manual, but I would suggest trying to locate one or both. All of the information presented to me as a result of this thread, is posted in the thread. I will wish you good luck in your search. Jon.
  12. "Figures don't lie, but liars figure". Quotation attributed to Mark Twain. CFM And to take the comment about liars even further, one company making carburetors wanted a 600 CFM for comparison with a competing brand. When engineering informed sales that since the company historically had not made a 600, new components (throttle shafts, throttle plates, venturii, etc.) would all have to be designed and machined, sales said "no problem, just take a 625 add a new id number, and sell it as a 600! Jon.
  13. I would be interested in learning how rated CFM for efi compares to rated CFM for carburetors. After 60 years of playing with carburetors, the best explanation for carburetor CFM that I have seen was written by Mark Twain! Jon
  14. Carter 2122s was introduced 5 October 1953. Most of the 1954 carburetors were released in August. Jon.
  15. In the for what its worth category: The below applies to downdraft carburetors where the idle mixture control screw meters a mixture of fuel and air. It does NOT apply to those carburetors (such as a Zenith type 23) where the idle mixture screw meters only air. Most carburetors have a range for adjustment of the idle mixture control screws specified by the factory. The method I have used for some 60 years is simple: (1) Look up the range. WHERE? In your service manual (2) Divide the range into three equal parts (3) Set the initial setting of the idle mixture control screws (see below) (4) Turn the throttle positioner screw to give a fast idle (5) Start the engine, and warm to normal operating temperature. (6) Set the idle RPM by backing down the throttle positioner screw. (7) At this point you are going to be very close, PLUS you are going to minimize or eliminate hesitation from a stop from having too rich an idle mixture. Setting the idle mixture screws: I use the following: (A) Divide the idle mixture screw range into 3 equal parts. (B) If the engine is freshly overhauled to about 1500 miles set the screws at two thirds of the range (C) If the engine has 1500 miles or so, and in good to excellent condition, set the screws at one third of the range (D) If the engine is burning oil badly, and you are just trying to prolong the inevitable rebuild, set the screws at the maximum of the range. Example: Lots of carbs use a range from three quarters of a turn to one and one half turns. So the range is three quarters of a turn. Note the beginning of the range is also three quarter of a turn. Each third would then be 1/4 turn So with this example: B above beginning of range 3/4 turn plus 2/3 of the range (2 times 1/4 or 1/2) so the setting would be 1 1/4 turns C above beginning of the range 3/4 of a turn plus 1/3 of the range (1/4 turn) so the setting would be 1 turn. D above the maximum (from our factory range is 1 1/2 turns) so that is what I would use. Caviat: Do not automatically assume that ALL carburetors use this range! A large majority of the carbs 1967 and before used an idle mixture control screw with a large angle and short taper. The example range is much more likely with this type of screw. In 1968, Federal smog emission became effective. To acquire a finer idle mixture setting, the idle mixture screws (for the most part) suddenly were redesigned with a smaller angle and much longer taper. It is not unusual for the range on these screws to be 1 1/2 turn to 3 1/2 turn or even more. Comments: Setting the idle mixture screws out further than the range will have no effect on the mixture above that at the maximum other than in the mind of the adjusting individual. Setting (and leaving this setting) for the highest vacuum will virtually guarantee a hesitation from a stop sign if the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission. WHY? Vacuum is measured beneath the throttle valve. The highest vacuum will be acquired when the throttle plate is completely closed (no signal to the idle transition circuit) and 100 percent of the idle fuel is coming through the lower idle port. As there is no air velocity past the throttle plate(s), puddling occurs in the intake manifold. When the throttle is opened to accelerate, the air velocity sweeps the puddles into the cylinders causing a RICH hesitation, followed immediately by a LEAN hesitation because there is no fuel available from the idle transition circuit, and the fuel from the accelerator pump is a few milli-seconds from being available. If you wish to "tweak" from this setting go ahead, but you are going to be very close on pre-1968 vehicles. Multiple carburetor setups (solid linkage) will have a range which is closer to zero as the beginning point of the range. Multiple carburetor setups with progressive linkage - use the factory settings. I really cannot fathom why anyone would consider using progressive linkage on anything but a numbers-matching show car, so no need to discuss trying to make an aftermarket setup work. Jon.