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Everything posted by carbking

  1. The filter you show is a Carter, and was available aftermarket at least post WWII, and possibly before. As far as I am aware, they were aftermarket only, but am not certain of that. That particular one is fairly common; BUT MAKE SURE YOU A BOWL FROM AN IDENTICAL FILTER!!!! Carter had several aftermarket filters. I gave completely up on trying to sell parts for these things, and wholesaled 1/2 a truck load to a gentleman in Florida because of that. Watch Ebay for a complete filter. The key to the correct one is the wire going from top to bottom as in your picture. The one shown by BuickBob is different from yours, and the bowl will not fit. Check out Ebay 323832671374 Jon.
  2. Been using glass bowl fuel filters for more than 50 years. This is the FIRST one I have ever seen where the gasket is at the BOTTOM. So, suggesting, before installing the gasket; make CERTAIN where it goes on the filter you have. Jon.
  3. As far as the ignition is concerned: with the proliferation of aftermarket stuff on the internet, there is always the possibility of acquiring wires, coil, and condenser that do not match each other in impedance. If not matched, firing voltages can be low, resulting in an incomplete burn of the available fuel, and a rich condition. Worse yet, are the electronic conversions that should ALWAYS (one of the words I virtually never use) be installed ONLY after upgrading to an alternator. A generator does not supply sufficiently stable voltage at low RPM for the electronics. Those of you that are old enough, and grew up in rural areas with REA's; do you remember watching TV and the refrigerator kicked on? And the TV picture shrunk about 2 inches at both top and bottom, and then went back to normal? Jon
  4. Both use Rochester mounting gasket 1170643, thus there is no incompatibility to the intake manifold. Without pulling prints (on microfilm) the major difference MIGHT be in the secondary. Packard carbs have no auxiliary air valve on the 1955, and have it on the 1956. Buick may be the same; I don't have any to look at, and too lazy to pull the prints. The 1956 Packard 4GC is superior to the 1955 because of the auxiliary air valve. Jon
  5. Many different Carter carburetors of the type RJH-08, one of which is the 1928 Plymouth (which is a smaller engine, so the engine would be down on power). This is also true of the DRT-08. These are types, just like a Rochester quadrajet is a type (more modern) of carburetor; NOT a positive identification. The 1931 Plymouth PA would have originally used a type DRT-08, tag number 209s. Good luck on finding a tagged 1931, as the tags were made from red cardboard. Carter quickly found out the cardboard tags were not overly durable, so in the mid-1930's Carter changed to a brass tag. One occasionally finds a 209s brass tagged carb with a service date (same carb, just made as a service unit after production). These do not grow on trees, and service parts, other than fuel valve and gaskets, can get rather pricey. Jon.
  6. Disconnecting the choke on the rear carburetor will violate the "Law of Unintended Consequences" WHY? When running with the original progressive linkage, the throttle on the rear carburetor is closed at start-up, forcing all A/F mixture to be supplied by the front carburetor. When running with solid linkage, the throttle on the rear carburetor is open at start-up, thereby causing a severe imbalance of the A/F mixture density to the cylinders fed by the rear carb, thus creating the condition experienced by Lawrence in the post above this one. Matt - how far out do you have the idle mixture control screws on both carbs? My GUESS would be somewhere around 1/2 turn would be about right. At this point in time, why not start the adjustment procedure over. Pick a day when the ambient (or the temperature in your garage) is in the window of 65~70 degrees F., disconnect the linkage connecting the two carbs, one by one adjust the chokes by first working the throttle on each carb to wide open and then release. Open the throttle approximately 1/2 way and HOLD. Now loosen the screws holding the retaining clamps, and rotate the choke cap gently in each direction, looking for the direction that allows the choke butterfly to fall open. Now, gently rotate the choke cap in the opposite direction until the choke butterfly just touches closed with zero tension. Once both chokes have been adjusted, reconnect the two carburetors. Start the engine. Run the engine at a fast idle until the engine is totally at operating temperature. Turn one of the throttle positioner screws clockwise to give an idle of maybe 1000 RPM. Rotate each mixture control screw clockwise until lightly seated, then counterclockwise 1/2 turn. Which one is done in sequence is unimportant. Once all four have been adjusted to 1/2 turn, rotate the throttle positioner screw you used to set the fast idle counterclockwise SLOWLY, blipping the throttle each 1/8 turn to try to get your target idle RPM. Some further adjustment of the mixture control screws may be necessary, but shouldn't be much. Now, the next time you go to start the engine cold: remove the air cleaner, and verify both chokes should be wide open. If not, we have an adjustment issue somewhere. If they are, GENTLY push the throttle wide open and release (take about 4 seconds to push the throttle open). Verify both chokes should completely close. Now, with the transmission in neutral and one tire blocked, open the drivers door window, stand outside the car, and start the engine! (no foot on the footfeed). It should start, and immediately go to a fast idle. You may need to adjust the fast idle to your target RPM. The above procedure is assuming that you have previously synchronized the throttle operation of the two carburetors. If not, then that should be done as well. Jon.
  7. The choke spring closes the choke butterfly. Heat, with vacuum, opens the choke butterfly. Automatic chokes Rebuilding kits with screws are available from that grumpy old hillbilly in Missouri. Jon.
  8. Bloo - as you suggested, the purpose of the unloader circuit was to clear a flooded cold engine, BUT one with the choke working. In Matt's case, he is not activating the chokes by not using the footfeed. If he activated the chokes by pressing the footfeed, then the issue could possibly be worse. Much depends on if the carbs ARE too rich, or if the ignition system is weak. Jon.
  9. Really easy to say the Tillotson JR is the issue , but in this case it probably is not. A backfire through the carburetor occurs when: (A) a cylinder is firing AND (B) an intake valve is open A compression test might turn up a lazy or burned valve. The ignition timing might be off. Rare, but on well-worn engines with a timing chain, possible that the chain slipped a link. Jon.
  10. Carburetors get blamed for a lot, some of which they actually cause. Yes, a carburetor flowing too much fuel CAN cause the engine to run rich (about a 4 percent probability). A defective ignition system can also cause an engine to run rich (about a 93 percent probability). Underinflated tires, dragging brakes, your golf clubs in the trunk among other items can cause poor fuel economy. Jon.
  11. Before throwing rocks at the carburetor, insert a fuel pressure gauge right at the carburetor. The $39.95 dial type inline pressure regulators available at the FLAPS regulate pressure by regulating volume. If your regulator is rated say 10 gal/hour and you have adjusted the dial to 1: (A) At a flow rate of 10 gallons per hour (wide open throttle) the output pressure is probably about 1 psi. (B) At a flow rate much less than 10 gallons per hour (idle) the output pressure probably is the same as the inlet pressure. Test it with a pressure gauge. Then you know. If you are going to use an electric pump, go to a "speed" or "race" shop, and buy an expensive regulator with an internal bypass. Holley, probably others as well, make a good one. Expect to spend at least a hundred dollars or more. But it will correctly regulate pressure at all flow rates. As far as the idle returning to a specific RPM: when you rebuilt the carburetor, did you remove the throttle shaft and check for out of round? That carb is 90 years old, who knows how many miles are on it. The design clearance from throttle shaft to throttle body was 0.004~0.006 inches. An additional 0.003 inches wear (thus a total of 0.009 inches) is acceptable. EDIT: as far as flipping the intake: acquire an intake-to-head gasket. Lay this gasket on a piece of cardboard larger than the gasket, and draw the complete INSIDE (the mounting holes and air/fuel holes) pattern on the cardboard. Flip the gasket. If ALL of the holes line up, then maybe you can flip the intake. Jon.
  12. They come in the upper level carburetor rebuilding kits. Jon.
  13. John - I don't think it is the use of two primary carbs that is the issue. I have been building and selling multiple carburetion for 40 years, and except for those building numbers matching showcars, ALWAYS use chokes on ALL of the carbs and solid linkage. Not just Buick, but all makes. My 1968 Ford F100 with a 435 HP 390 has two 625 CFM Carter AFB's running solid linkage, and manual chokes on both. Have done several Buicks over the years, and ALWAYS used two single carbs, as they were less expensive for the customer than fronts. They work well. Jon
  14. John - if I misunderstood, my apologies. I may have misread the comments. Flooding an engine when cold, to me, means either (probably) defective spark, or the carburetor is adjusted to rich. If the carb is the issue, then holding one's foot to the floor will activate the unloader circuit, but the choke will only be approximately 1/4 inch open, and the engine would flood worse. Just to prove this to myself, I would start the car, get it to normal temperature, and check the A/F ratios, especially at idle, adjusting if necessary. If the same thing happened again, I would check the firing voltages at the plugs. Jon.
  15. The PA did not use the BB-1 as original. The PB did. Do not know if the intake is the same or not. Jon.
  16. Carb looks like Plymouth. Picture is not large enough to tell for sure. There are letters on the carb that would give us a better idea, but cannot read them from the picture. Jon.
  17. Mark - it isn't JUST Marvel and Schebler, although I believe them to be the worst offenders; but Dodge (Detroit Lubricator) used a 27/64 by 22 thread up through 1929 for the fuel valve seat, and Ford Model A (1928~1931) (Zenith and Holley) used a number 10 by 34 thread on jets. This is just the common makes. Just got an order for a kit for a 1920 GMC with a Marvel and a 31/64 fuel valve seat thread. Another custom die ☹️ I understand how you can rob Peter to pay Paul on your own vehicles, but don't think I would last very long in business selling used fuel valves in my rebuilding kits Jon.
  18. Back out the air screw. Try 1/2 turn, maybe as much as 1 full turn. It is an inverse idle circuit. Lightly seated is maximum RICH. Your description sounds like an overrich idle. Jon.
  19. I will disagree on holding the petal to the metal on a flooded engine with today's fuel. Hot starting Jon.
  20. When the country in question was Japan some 50 years ago, a close friend, now departed, used to say "They are not out-smarting us, we are out-dumbing them!" Lots of possibilities in this discussion, but the mentioned Global Shipping Policy of ebay is....................well, unmentionable among gentlemen! Of course, the answer to getting the tariff on Chinese made products, is to, when possible, buy non-Chinese made products. We have been in the retail (and wholesale) market for old cars for 50 years, and have not sold one single item produced in China. It costs more, but if one is adamant, it can be done! Jon.
  21. Matt -thanks for the plug Which brings up a question. I have very little experience on pre-war cars other than their carburetors. Just took an order for another obscure Marvel kit (all Marvels are obscure the first time ) The thread on the fuel inlet valve seat is a perfect 31/64 by 20. Being weird is pretty normal for Marvel carburetors; Marvel did not adhere to S.A.E. standards, period. I guess this was one way of preventing anyone else from making aftermarket parts. So I get to have another custom die made. I currently have more than $10,000 invested in taps and dies, virtually all of which are 1/2 inch or less!!!!!! Marvel was the worst, but Schebler came in a close second. Zenith and Detroit also used a few unusual threads, but only a couple of sizes. So my question, just for my own information, do those of you that regularly work on these early cars, have issues with odd ball thread sizes; or is this just a Marvel and Schebler thingy? Jon
  22. Carbking read the thread, but did not answer, as the thread asked for experts, and carbking is a specialist, not an expert. Experts write sports columns, and when their prediction does not come to pass, the game result is labeled an "upset"! But since my bell has been rung (twice), my opinion is the BB1D is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too small! Carter released three sizes of the BB1 updraft carburetor. The BB1D is the middle size. The largest engine Carter suggesting using the largest BB1 on is 315 CID. The BB1D works really well on older engines around 215~250 CID. On newer engines, with more RPM, about 225 would be the upper limit. Jon.
  23. No gasket necessary, and Marvel did not use one. Jon.
  24. As long as the idle mixture control screws allow the required volume of fuel (these control volume, NOT the mixture), the profile of the screw is somewhat unimportant. Basically, there are two different profiles: (1) the oldest, which is a large angle, short taper, and (2) a newer design, which is small angle, long taper. Rochester started playing with the small angle, long taper screws on some carburetors in the 1950's. The long taper gives the tuner the ability to more finely tune the idle circuit, as changing the volume of fuel requires more rotation of the screw(s). Fast forward to 1968, when Federal Smog Emission became the law of the land, and virtually all O.E. carburetors started using the long taper for more precise adjustment. Rochester was just ahead of their time on this one. Jon.
  25. The throttle body with the 10-47 was used on both the 1922 4 cylinder and 1922 6 cylinder carburetors. It is not unique to either. To determine exactly which carb you have, you need to check other components. Marvel did an excellent job of providing service literature. They printed a 28 page booklet for 1922 that would have come with the car. Jon.