Scott Bonesteel

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About Scott Bonesteel

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  • Birthday 07/31/1953

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  1. My 1935 Plymouth Parts List (Issued April 1, 1936, "Supersedes Issue of May 15, 1935") lists #631894 as "Gearshift rail and fork assembly (direct and second)" for a 1935 PJ Plymouth.
  2. My Dodge truck parts book shows #631894 as "GEARSHIFT SHAFT OR RAIL (2ND AND 3RD)" for a "KC,KCL (after 8048701-9203901-8911001)". Therefore, 34-early 35 KC or KCL (long 119" wheelbase) commercial chassis, express, humpback panel. Did not check my auto parts books.
  3. Tom-- Best I can tell you on the welting is as follows: No welting between the ends of the running boards and the fenders, the rubber vulcanized to the metal boards serves that purpose. Between the 'side sills' (splash aprons) there is typically a thin fibre welting without a bead, and those are riveted to the running boards, not bolted. When installed, the running boards just bolt to the brackets that stick out and the splash aprons just slip under the body without any welting. There is beaded welting between the front of the front fenders and the radiator shell and between the body and the rear fenders. Have seen cars both ways but I believe a beaded welt does go between the rear of the body and the top of the gas tank shroud. Good to hear from you again, hope all is going well, still trying to finish up my PE convertible. SMB
  4. Mopar, 33-34 side mount cover. If you look at the lip where the two parts come together they are typically stamped with the size, e.g. 600-16, 525-17, etc. 600 would be 34, others would typically be 33. See attached photo. The Chevy logo doesn't make sense because that would put the logo at the top and the cut-out on the cover in the 6:00 position. Depending on which side this one is for (they interchange with the exception of the logo position), the cut-out goes into the fender at the 8:00 position (for the driver side) or at the 4:00 position (for the passenger side). With that positioning, you should find the original mounting holes for the emblem at what would be the 12:00 position for whatever side it was mounted on. Unlike down on the flat part of the cover, where the Chevy logo is mounted, the Mopar logo was mounted more up on the curved part of the cover, like shown on Reg's '33 and in the attached photos.
  5. "Thanks to the lack of seat belts in either vehicle, the six passengers were all thrown clear of the wreckage."
  6. OK, every once in awhile something strikes me, this time it was the bidding and sale of a pair of 34 PE Plymouth convertible coupe window frames. These are the fairly rare ones with the integral vent windows and the mechanism for the 'dual operation', with and without the vents. Granted, this is only the second set I have seen (bought the first set for my PE) and they are probably impossible to fabricate, but by the time the dust settled, with each part being in a separate auction, the total for the door channels, top window frames and lower window channels was just short of $6000.00. Somebody must have a bottomless restoration budget. Wow.
  7. Here is the page from the 34 Plymouth, fairly rare Accessories booklet dealing with radios.
  8. To some extent I agree with GregLaR that either fog or running lights look odd/overkill on a simple Plymouth--which is true, IMHO, of any car that is 'over-accessorized', a look that a friend of mine used to describe as a car that drove through Pep Boys with a magnet attached. Despite this, I have always run Super 7 Fog Lamps on my 34 PE Plymouth (photo attached) as it has a fairly fancy look anyway, 4-dr sedan with dual sidemounts and trunk rack. I simply wired them with dual filament bulbs and use them as running lights/turn signals, which, again IMHO, look period and better than modern turn signals mounted on the bumper/bumper brackets. I have a set of similar lamps that are going to go on my 34 PE Plymouth convertible when completed, again to serve the purpose of turn signals. They don't help to see the road better but certainly help others know when I am planning on turning.
  9. Number doesn't show up in my Dodge parts books but the 65XXXX number range indicates that the part is 1935 or newer, probably in the 35-36 time frame.
  10. OK, I'm getting old. Meant what model 34: PE, PF or PG. SMB
  11. Paul, I have both. What model 34 PE do you have, PE, PF or PG?
  12. Tom, keep in mind that a 35 ship won't fit a 34 shell. Look similar but lots of differences. Biggest difference is that the front of the 35 fits into the stainless trim on the sides of the grille, while the 34--even on the later series with the stainless trim around the grille--sits up above, independent of the grille trim. Maybe you just want a shelf ornament, but thought I would point that out.
  13. Lot of good points raised by the comments. Having run both stock brakes and a front disc conversion, there is no question that there are numerous ways that a front disc conversion can go wrong and it is much more complicated than it seems: wheel clearance on the disc calipers; need for a combination valve and residual pressure valves; master cylinder sizing; room for the vacuum booster, etc. I have found that, despite all the trouble, a disc conversion, if done right, stops better. However, most stock hydraulic brake systems (bounced my Model A with mechanical brakes off the curb numerous times to slow it down, but I am sure the clevis connections were worn out...) work just fine. A good middle ground, that avoids the 'non-stock'/future sales issues is to simply replace the stock master cylinder, which is typically a single reservoir, with a dual master cylinder designed for a drum/drum combination. Depending upon the subject vehicle, it may bolt right up to the cylinder mount or a simple adaptor plate can be machined to change a 3-bolt to a 2-bolt mount. Make sure the cylinder size and plunger depth are correct and you can split the front and rear brake systems for an added safety factor--requires splitting the brake lines but (1) you would probably be replacing them anyway, and (2) easy to return to stock. As the above comments point out, make sure the remainder of the system is in good shape--properly adjusted, good non-fluid soaked shoes, leak free--and the stock brake system should work fine on most vehicles.
  14. Handle is passenger side, '34 Dodge, not '33. As your catalogue photo shows, the '33 does not have the teardrop escutcheon, which is found on the '34. Will fit the '34 Plymouths but not correct, those handles have multiple ridges on them.
  15. You have my sympathies. I am 6'3", 285# and, thankfully, my 34 PE Plymouth has an adjustable seat. When I installed it, I 'cheated' it back about 1". Also, the seat frame has multiple holes in which to install the seat tracks so it can be adjusted backwards and forwards. I suppose the alternative is what is somewhat bluntly known as a 'fatman' steering wheel... .