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Scott Bonesteel

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About Scott Bonesteel

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  • Birthday 07/31/1953

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  1. On the keyed handle, although you seem to have done some of this, look for the oldest lock and key place you can find, usually in the 'old part of town'. Those folks typically have the staff that have been around long enough to have seen it all. Not in your area but what I found was ABC Lock & Key in San Diego (CA, not Texas) where I am located. They were able to re-key an outside locking handle for my 34 Dodge panel, which has basically the same lock as your 33. They also were able to re-key some 34 Plymouth Yale Omega 'bent key' locks, even had a couple of boxes of uncut keys on thei
  2. I have used a couple of these replacement keepers--they fit and work really well.
  3. Perfect Circle Piston Rings logo.
  4. OK, here is a series of photos of a 34 door latch taken from the driver's side, front, which should be about the same as your 33 since it does not have the outside door lock components that are on the passenger side 34. You can see the square hole where the handle shaft comes in from the outside. As I suggested and as Jack M noted, some wiggling of the handle, coupled with some WD40, should remove the outside handle once you remove the two outside screws. On the latch assembly, you can see all of the 'wear' points which would drag and restrict the shaft returning to the full 'up' position.
  5. I guess I would try to find out why the handles are not returning to full up first. They are only connected to the inside handle by a flat bar and a bell crank, so I don't think those would be the problem. I have taken the inside handle posts off before and that is easy, very accessible. If you are in there you might want to check the springs which 'lock' the inside handles, those are notorious for breaking/wearing out and are easily replaced. My guess is that the problem is in the door latch itself, which is what the shaft from the outside handle goes directly into. If the square bushing
  6. I have a couple of 34s and some 33 doors and I believe they all come apart the same. Outside handles are held on by the two screws on the outside of the car. The inside handles are held on by a cross pin through the shaft on the inside. Need to press the inside escutcheon plate in far enough so the pin can be seen and then simply push it out. This is difficult sometimes due to the type of upholstery in place--if it is too thick it is hard to push the escutcheon plate in far enough to clear the pin. There are tools made for this that work quite well, see internet/ebay. 33 door doesn't hav
  7. Fuel pump with a combined vacuum pump on the bottom, probably to power windshield wipers.
  8. Gorgeous car when finished but virtually impossible to find the 'convertible only' parts for all three of the Chrysler, Plymouth and Dodge versions. I don't know enough about the 34 DeSoto but I believe it has the same 'convertible unique' parts. The 34 models are particularly difficult because of the vent/door window assemblies, which are complex, differ from the single pane 33 versions (which is what many owners default to when they can't find the 34 version) and also differ from the closed cars with the vent/door type assemblies. Took me YEARS to find them for my 34 Plymouth PE convertib
  9. Agree with most of the above. Definitely not 34, no apron on the side and too short for the 114" wheelbase on the 34 PE model (although the 34 PF and PG with the 108" wheelbase had a shorter fender). The lack of the apron is the determinative fact, plus the bolt hole pattern for the headlight bracket runs front to back on the 34s, not side to side as on this one and as on the 33. Not a Dodge because it lacks the spear bead on the front crown. Not 33 Desoto because they wrap around the bottom of the radiator shell, much like a 33-34 Ford. Best guess: 33 PD. The PC is significantly shorte
  10. If my King's English is correct, taking it from a two-door coupe to a four-door makes it a 'saloon', which is where it looks like it was designed, after a wee dram or two...As noted above, just because you can doesn't mean you should.
  11. Couple of photos of the dome light disassembled so you can see the tabs that hold it together.
  12. The outside chrome ring and the lens comes out as a unit. The switch stays put with the body of the light. The outside ring has 4 lightly spring loaded tabs that stick straight up into the body of the light. There are no screws or clips involved. I will shoot a couple of pictures to you shortly, showing one disassembled. To remove, I would just try to slip my fingers under the outside of the chrome lip on the long sides of the lip and simply pull down, perhaps with a slight wiggle. Be careful as the glass lens will come with the chrome lip. The body will be screwed into the roof bows an
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