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Lahti35

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Everything posted by Lahti35

  1. The arm rests were ratty so I pulled the old ones off and got some new ones, some junk hiding behind them but an easy cleaning. Also cleaned up the timing cover and replaced the front seal, a speedy sleeve on the pulley spacer where the seal rides as well. I've never used a speedy sleeve before, neat little device! For some more fun I picked up this old CB radio and installed it under the dash.
  2. Roughed in a gauge holder for oil pressure/warning light/motor minder and added a tachometer...
  3. The cab roof running lights were shot. Missing or broken lenses and bent internals abounded. The previous owner included a new set with the truck. Under the headliner is a factory harness with bullet connectors. It was a matter of soldering the correct connectors to the new lights and installing. The headliner was reinstalled with the now polished trim after the lights were tested and working.
  4. There was a strong smell of gas in the cab. Since #1 tank is behind the seat and the filler neck is 1' long it wasn't hard to find the problem.. New hose and fuel vapors faded and disappeared. I also replaced the outside grommet as it was shrunk and split too.
  5. Continuing on with the little stuff... I got the distributor rebuilt, I redid it stock but may do a petronix install in the future once I get some baseline performance information. I had to find a new old stock points plate after the new production one (china) was so poorly made it wouldn't work. I also tackled the neutral safety switch. The gear selector had to be jiggled about to allow starting so a look into the NSS showed it was gunked up with some heavy scuffing. I found a NOS switch for a few dollars more than a new one. I'd rather pay more for NOS than deal with some of the junky repro parts out there. Installation went without a hitch.
  6. Fixed the broken passenger side window crank, looks like it gave up the ghost eons ago... Gotta keep the Mrs happy! Meanwhile, the parts are accumulating...
  7. Got the windshield washer running also, gonna need that! It's a straight forward system, an easy victory. I'd be interested to see how they installed the washer fluid pump into the tank at the factory, hardest part is getting the filter screen screwed to the pump from inside the tank... The rest of the rubber hoses and plastic fittings are now replaced. Tested out great, ready to rock. I need to adjust the nozzles a bit so they hit the windshield a bit higher is all.
  8. Picking away at the little stuff... I had to get to the cab light wiring to replace the old cab lights so while the headliner was out I polish the chrome and reinforced a few spots in the headliner that had cracked or had a fastener pull through.
  9. With the bulk of the engine cleaned it was time to pull the heads (more on that issue later) and the oil pan. It came apart without any major fight, each part removed revealed original factory gaskets. There is no evidence anyone has been inside this engine since 1968. The bores in the block are smooth, no scoring or gouging, while all cylinders are dirty with carbon from running rich none show signs of oil burning. The timing chain is loose and will be replaced. Always drop your pan when you buy an old car! Not nearly as bad as I've seen but clean is better! Next steps are to replace the oil pump, crank seals and timing chain assembly.
  10. Work continued on the transmission this weekend... Just waiting on a new rear seal to finish it off. While waiting I cleaned the rest of the grime off the engine, popped the freeze plugs out and flushed the block out. I did get a bit of sludge but nothing major, mostly some grayish flecks of scale. The internal passages are very clean. The backs of the original steel plugs themselves were crusty, they will be replaced with brass plugs.
  11. I don't think I've ever bought a vintage vehicle that had a working dashboard light dimmer, no exceptions here. I was able to find a replacement, the only difference was the spacer was not attached to the switch as on the original... I spot welded them together, easier to hold one piece under a dash than two. For those that have never worked with this era Ford dash switch the knob is released by holding down this little hidden button on the top of the switch and pulling the knob out. The bezel in the dash can the be unscrewed and the switch removed.
  12. Another day of degreasing... Cleaning off the concretions and removing the water and fuel pump shed light on the oil issues. The fuel pump gasket had a piece out of it allowing oil to spew out over the engine. Looking forward to cleaner shop time!
  13. The transmission is leaking so I'm working of fixing those also. There was a good size leak at the pump. I pulled the pump by theading two of the holes, installing bolts and using an improvised slide hammer I made out of some bits. I did this with the transmission hanging tail down from my hoist with the drum band tightened to keep any bits from moving around while the pump was out. Pretty straight forward, the pump gasket, o-ring and seal are now all replaced.
  14. I finished rebuilding the carb this morning. It did have some issues: the afore mentioned worn throttle shaft bore, a float set too low, a check valve interfering with the float travel, and a bad dashpot. It's all sorted now and ready to go.
  15. While I was degreasing the trans I was cleaning carb parts also. A quick wash with some thinner and a soda blast got things cleaned up nicely. The carb has a few issues, a worn throttle body being the worst. It's not severe but now is the time to take care of it. They make a kit to do 3/8 shaft bushings. I did have to modify the reamer and put relief cuts so I could use it backwards with the shaft as a pilot but it works good. A ratchet with a socket works good for driving it and only removing enough material to press the bushing flush into the throttle body with some locktite. I used the reamer shaft to align the bushings when driving them in, worked great and there is no play in the throttle shaft now.
  16. I spent some time this afternoon cleaning the tranny in preparation for seal replacement. Lots of gack and crusty junk. A general going over with a scraper followed by a soak in oven cleaner got most of it off. A wire brush got the stubborn stuff. I still have to get into the nooks and crannies but it's much better now...
  17. It's a FE360, nothing spectacular but I didn't find anything available for rebuilt heads beyond that ATK company with a bad rap. Others were out of stock, maybe pandemic issues? I'm not opposed to rebuilding a set from cores with the aid of a local machinist so i'm going to go that route. Might as well do a pair. I did poke around epay and found a few heads but they look in worse shape than mine, specifically with the broken exhaust ears. I did find a guy on facebook marketplace with a set of later heads that would work but the ad is old, no reply as of yet... A core will pop up somewhere, just have to do a little digging.
  18. Whoever messed the holes up in the past really did a number on them, there isn't enough meat to install threaded inserts or I would. I may run it by the machine shop to confirm but I think they are toast. Somebody used a torch and a die grinder to remove the old bolts and open up the holes significantly. There is a large amount of cast iron missing now where the bolt used to go. I think i'll skip the welding so that leaves a rebuild or new head. All the re-manufactured heads I can find are made by ATK/VEGE, their reviews are not very flattering... a local rebuild may be the way to go at this point.
  19. I've got a dilemma on my '68 FORD truck engine... On one of the heads someone couldn't get the exhaust manifold bolts out of one of the "ears" so they drilled the bolt out (off center) and then widened the hole with a die grinder or something to make it more or less tapered from the outside in. They had a bolt with a nut holding the manifold on and it looks pretty bad. My options are to find a new head or fix what I have. Can anyone recommend a good cast welder? The hole is too large for a threaded insert and with it being on an ear there isn't much room to drill even larger... I've read there are some nickel welding rods out there that work good for cast. Perhaps brazing with a threaded insert?
  20. Way to go Gary! What an accomplishment! I've followed your thread with great interest for years as your project has come together. It's been a treat to see your updates and the wonderful craftsmanship unfold into a sleek car. Keep up the great work!
  21. Seal up the leaks mainly, easier to just yank the whole thing and work on it outside the engine bay. We've got leaks in the tranny input/output, rear main seal, and intake. Also cleaning the goo off of everything and replacing rubber. No rebuilding of the transmission or engine, when running they seem good, it just doesn't start and run all that well. Needs a carb and ignition system rebuild for sure though.
  22. Started stripping the lines off the block... Anybody missing a pen? The electric heater won't be going back in either, keeping things simple. The manifolds need to come off, one is cracked and the other has issues with the mounting ears on the head it's mated to. This is largely going to influence what happens with the heads. If I have to have broken bolts removed at the machine shop they might be in for a rebuild, time will tell.
  23. Pulled the engine and transmission this AM. Heavy old sucker! It's easy to see that the valve covers have been leaking for some time covering everything in the typical dirt/oil sludge concretions. The transmission is also leaking from the input/output seals. I'll be replacing those seals as well as the majority of the engine seals as well.
  24. Noted, I've discovered this in my research also... I've got them soaking in PB blaster now, patience is the key!
  25. A quick little overview before surgery begins... Directly after I pulled the exhaust out, it was pretty rotten. I was pretty mistified about how FORD got the y pipe in between the frame/C6/and the engine... I could not remove it without cutting it up. The frame crossmember must have to come out for replacement...
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