Lahti35

I tried to give a rooster away free once, no takers after a week or so. I updated the ad to state he was going in the pot on such and such a day and I'll be darned if some good samaritan didn't drive miles in a terrible snow storm to come "rescue" him. Problem solved!

Not sure but i'm going to start with a good NOS dizzy cap and rotor instead of that plastic junk that came from rock auto last year. As soon as I get the shifter straight i'll do some diagnosing...

At least we're already in there and don't have to take it apart again for every issue! Finding broken stuff in my garage is still better than a good day at work, lol!

Another day another adventure! The gear selector moves out of park without pulling it towards you so I took off the steering wheel to investigate... First thing I found beside the dead moth parts was a broken turn signal switch. One of the fingers was broken off so i'll need a new one. Word on the street is that the repro ones are all made by one company no matter who sells them and they can be finicky, I'm hunting down NOS on this part. Going deeper I found the detent plate to be in excellent shape, no wear around the park slot which tends to get the edges rounded over. I'm glad I don't need one, they are not reproduced and are rare to find NOS. Going deeper yet the problem became evident... The nub on the shifter is worn away. Typically these exhibit wear but is this case it's just gone! That's not totally accurate, it's still in there just now in a form of metal powder covering the assembly. I took it out for possible repair, the red outline shows where the nub should be. I may be able to weld it up and shape it back to it's original glory. If not I'll have to source a good one, I don't want this old girl jumping out of park! In other news I started it up and came to life much better than it had last fall. I do still have a slight miss now and then which is puzzling as the vacuum gauge is rock steady. I decided to swap out the aftermarket distributor rotor and cap with some NOS Motocraft parts that are on the way. The dizzy cap I bought some time ago feels super cheap and is made out of thin plastic, I am unimpressed. After the points fiasco I figured NOS stuff beats new parts anymore in this day and age...

1941 Packard Coupe with AC - $23,500 OBO - Washington, MI. Marketplace - 1941 Packard 120 · Business coupe | Facebook 1941 120 business coupe factory air conditioning Owned by the late Dr Charles Blackman It’s a complete car, small damage to passenger side window (cracks) it’s a beautiful 2 tone grey and black color, chrome is in good condition garage kept car It’s a rare junior car being a business coupe with factory air and it’s the second year Packard had air conditioning It’s located outside of Lansing Michigan 28,292 miles Scratches on the paint Has title 23.5k obo

That water pump is a highly sought after part, very rare! Looks to be an Advanced Six from the serial number plate on the front crossmember. Post 1925 with that dog leg in the shifter, maybe '26 or '27...

I can feel myself cooking in my own juices under that canopy on a sunny day... I always though these were cool.

What a shame that's the best part! In all seriousness though I bet it's the air filter not tightened down...

Nice looking Dodge but overpriced... Marketplace - 1949 Dodge d24 | Facebook Listing for my dad a 1949 Dodge D24 fluid drive flathead 6 runs and drives located in Garden City Michigan I can't tell if the engine has an exhaust leak, the air filter lid is loose, or it's grinding coffee - watch the video and you be the judge!

What happens in the trunk stays in the trunk baby!

Arm circumference is directly proportional to the number of cars you have without power steering!

1911 Buick - Binghamton, NY - $8,900 A very solid car requiring a restoration. Fenders and body seem good. Was painted red in the 20s maybe. Engine is stuck. This would be an fairly easy restoration and end up a very good 30 hp car for touring. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/448617287539339/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks Looks to be in a stash of other cars, someone's horde coming to light?

This is the amphibious version of the GAZ69 light utility vehicle. Much like the US jeep the USSR also made an amphibious version of their "jeep". I think it's grossly overpriced, most of these Russian vehicles are when they make it to the states. My old GAZ69 I restored years ago is currently for sale at $16K in NY on facebook marketplace if anyone wants a more affordable option (and even that seems high). The GAZ69 and it's amphibious cousin for sale here are tough little overbuild vehicles. Parts are much more available than they were 20 years ago when I did mine with more ex eastern block countries now having internet. The trick is to get one that's not all worn out to start with, they tend to be run into the ground.

I like these 4 door sedans the older I get, must be something in the water... Looking for some comps I found a nice 2 door that sold for $8k a few years ago. I can't imagine the market has changed much in 2 years for a car that wasn't super hot then. I think this car is a nice example of a vintage car in great shape NOT being worth lots of $$$. I'd go 6-7k myself and cruise the rubber off it.

It's always interesting how location comes into play. Folks within 300 miles of my domicile in Michigan put them up for sale around 15k for the most part. Nearly all are middle of the road examples that should be sub $10k cars at most. Moving down to the local $10k asking price and you get cars that don't run or are poorly restored. Everything seems to be priced 2X around here and they just sit for sale week after week. I wouldn't mind another T to drive around while I finish my '26 but not at the $$$ fishing expeditions I see posted on the marketplace. I do see the occasional exception of a decent fairly priced T but at an ever decreasing rate.

From what I could find it's an industrial size sewer snake. This one appears to have maybe lost its's flexible snake that would have been spooled around the drum. There looks to be something dark wrapped around near the front of the spool but it's hard to see if it's there or not. Here is a pic from a trailer unit made by the same company that shows the "rooter" spooled on...

I've had this on my watch list for some time just to see what happens... Alas, no one has stepped forward to rehome this little stinker as of yet! Marketplace - 1955 Chevrolet 3800 | Facebook 1955 Chevy 3800 Runs and drives Extremely clean Seweroder on back.

He just "doesn't have the time" or has "too many projects"!

I've been following this car for some time, years in fact. It has been for sale numerous times by the seller and once through a broker. There's even a thread on it over on The HAMB detailing it's resurrection after a storage spell. Supposedly the engine was rebuilt but never sounds like it was dialed in or done right... hard to say. It would be fun to bum around in but space and time have always eluded me when it comes up for sale again...

My stainless hardware kit showed up so I set to work polishing and assembling the mirrors... I also got new rubber gaskets as the old ones were dried out and nasty. Here's an in process shot showing the polished assembles unit vs. the un polished parts pile. I found that scrubbing the stainless bits with steel wool and thinner removed the gunk and rust stains but did not leave scratch marks. Polishing with simichrome brightened them up. Took me a few hours but I got both sides polished and assembled. The lower mounting points on the door were kind of a mess. Some of the rivnuts had pulled out and others were missing or had stuck fasteners in them. Once all the old hardware was removed I made a tool with a ground down carriage bolt, washers and wingnut to flatten the old rivnut holes. I had to remove the inner door panel to get access but it worked well and flattened the holes back down. I used cross nuts for the new lower mirror mounting point as they have a wider footprint, new rivnuts would not have worked well in the messed up holes. They sell a tool to install them but for $3 I made my own and set them with no issues. Got them installed late in the day but it was nice to see them in place. I have some adjusting to do but they're on! Always feels good to get stuff that's been kicking around the workbench for a month off the workspace.

I would not use a cam bearing twice. You have to pull the cam anyway to drill a hole in the bearing so it would seem like a good time to look and see if the holes are lined up. So you're getting no oil out of the rearmost driver's side head hole where the special bolt goes? Do you have a bolt installed there?

I'm just hoping for a dryer year than last... Man it rained and rained and rained last year, the grass grew like it was hopped up on fertilizer. I was mowing every 4-5 days and by the time summer was ending I was sick of it! I moved up to a zero-turn a few years ago and cut the mow time down from 3 hours to 1 but it still eats up garage time at an alarming rate, lol!

Earlier this week I filled the power steering pump with ATF as per the manual. I tried rotating the pump by hand to move the fluid through to the steering box but it didn't really do anything. I was a little concerned that I had rebuilt the pump wrong but I ended up just letting it sit until Saturday due to other obligations. When I checked the level yesterday it had gone down without any help from me so I added more and prepped the engine for the first start in a few months. The carb had gone dry but with some cranking it refilled and two pumps on the gas it started up. I ran it for 20 seconds then shut it down to check on the power steering fluid level, which had dropped so the pump was working. I spent some time bleeding the power steering system... Running the engine, topping of the fluid in the pump, turning the wheels back and forth with the front end off the ground, etc... Other than a small leak at the pressure line on the steering box it's performing as it should, smooth operation and no weird noises. I ordered a crowfoot wrench to tighten the fitting on the pressure line, it's tight in there and a regular wrench doesn't work well. I'd like to go for a real drive but I want to get the side mirrors on first, the rearview is hazed from age and I need to see who's coming up behind me while I make some trial runs. The truck came with large side mirrors that stick out pretty far, too far to get into my garage in fact. Last fall I picked up a set of the smaller folding mirrors that hug the door more. I lucked out and found these locally, while they are complete the hardware is all rusted solid or broken. The brackets are stainless but the hardware is not. There is a guy who makes a stainless hardware kit for these and I've been waiting on delivery but it's taking a long while... I got tired of waiting tonight and decided to pull all the rusted hardware off and get the stainless parts ready for cleaning. This is some ugly stuff... I stuck a wrench in a vise and used it as a third hand to hold one side of the hardware, my hands were busy stabilizing the mirror and operating the other wrench doing the turning. The posts on each end of the mirrors were especially tenacious and had to be drilled out... My 1.5 hours of careful effort with a drill, dremel, and torque yielded a pile of sheared off studs 'n junk. All the stainless mirror bits are ready for cleaning.

Looks sharp!

I had a guy give me a set of straps like that once, 1/2 the width of BlueDevils, while lifting a 1600lb milling machine onto my trailer. Told me to keep them for unloading. I've since used them with my hoist to life engines, transmissions, etc, more often than I can remember. Handy they are!