hursst

Members
  • Content Count

    545
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

117 Excellent

About hursst

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/19/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Woodbridge, VA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,736 profile views
  1. That's quite a beautiful town, too, not to mention a great car.
  2. hursst

    ID on 2 chrome brackets

    Looks like maybe wind wing clips, one goes on each side of the glass? No idea what make/year if so.
  3. Try SMS fabrics in California. You can google them. They have just about everything.
  4. Looking for a 943R or 943S generator for a 1930 Plymouth 30U (fits many other cars, too). Any condition, as long as it's rebuildable.
  5. hursst

    20 Cleveland engine number location

    In the new Chandler book by James Lackey, it says on p.159 "How to ID your Chandler or Cleveland car" that the motor number of cars with serial numbers 72,001 to 126,000, the number is stamped on the right front motor leg. After 126,000, it's on the left front motor leg.
  6. hursst

    1923 Chandler Chummy

    This trans looks very similar to the one depicted in the new Chandler book by James Lackey on p.56, in the 1923 section. I don't know much about Chandlers, which is why I bought the book, but there's a chance it's the original trans, if that helps.
  7. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Got in some time here and there to do some work. I got my one good wire wheel, blasted, primed and painted it. Turned out well (Photo 1). This will be used as the spare. I went down to Moss and got 4 new wire wheels, as it's too much cost and effort to try to piece together a full set of originals that are any good. I also picked up a sand bag so I can work on some larger areas with lots of curves (Photo 3). I got my valance panel and welded up most of the torn area (Photo 2). My welding is below average, but seems to be adequate so far. Ran out of wire, so still have more to do at the bottom, plus more grinding and shaping. The whole area is a little convex and not quite lining up at the bottom where there are multiple tears and a piece that just fell off which I need to weld back on. Should be an easy fix, just need some time to work it. I still have to grind the back side of it, as there are a lot of stalagmites that I produced back there. Any welding tips are appreciated. I'm using flux core with an Eastwood welder. I have the heat setting between A and B and the wire speed at 5. As you can see, I'm getting a lot of splatter. I also got a some burn through, of which I've been able to mostly repair as I go. The more I did the better it went. I have maybe 3 hours of welding experience thus far. Also got a bunch of new heater hoses, so I pieced together a lot of the plumbing for the heater, so it should be an easy installation later. Also got to fill in most of my NOS door with body filler. A few dings, but not too bad. Put a layer of guide cost primer on, so I'll find out what's what with the rest of the door soon.
  8. hursst

    Old Headlight With A liberty Lens???

    Looks similar to 22-24 Chandler, but is similar to many cars in the mid-1920s.
  9. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    I agree, in order to get the rest of the dents out, I'll need a bag to work against the curves; flat surface won't do for much of it.
  10. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Didn't have much time today, but kept working on the valance panel. Made an "anvil" out of bricks and wood blocks in order to have something to get behind the panel in order to keep working it (Photo 1). Was able to get the rough contours back of the upper crease above where the bumper goes using this method. Using various wood blocks and body hammers, was able to get the whole thing into general shape, minimized the twisting that was in it, hammered out most of the big dents and problem areas, and got the tears lined up fairly well, then put a clamp on to hold it for now. Probably ready for a few tack welds to keep it in place, then keep working the rest of the torn areas, then tack those up, then keep working the general contours and make sure things are even before I complete the weld. Bought some of the good Rage body filler, so I will start filling in any problem areas on my doors, hood, and trunk, maybe New Years Day, since it's supposed to be quite warm here. Happy New Year.
  11. hursst

    1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore

    Getting close to finished. That engine color looks really good against the body color, too. This will be one interesting and unique car when it's all back together. You'll never see another one.
  12. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Had a nice Christmas, hope everyone else did, too. Picked up my wire wheels in PA over the holiday; only one was usable without a large cost/effort to make them right. So, the one good one is at the strippers now and will be used as a spare. Also dropped off more stuff to be chromed; the front bumper guards and the parking brake handle and button. Got my front valance panel and door posts back from the stripper. Hammered out imperfections on the door posts, then primed and painted the back side with etching primer and chassis black. The factory left the back side in black primer, so I'm roughly reproducing what they did. Leaving the front in bare steel until I can get a streak of warm weather to apply the good primer with a spray gun. Here's the door posts (Photo 1) and rear bumper mounts, which I stripped myself. Posts now have primer and paint on the back portion and so do the bumper mounts. The valance panel is a disaster, but since it's tucked under the car, it will be a good piece for me to learn/practice body hammering and welding. A previous owner dented the heck out of it, then caught it on something and tore it. It was actually much worse than this, this is round 1 of getting it back into shape (Photo 2). I have a good set of body hammers (Thanks for the advice, Jeff), so making some progress. I also pulled out the battery cradle cover, which is an interior sheet metal piece. I chemically stripped it first (lead paint), then blasted it to bare metal. I did the same thing I did with the door posts, I primed and painted the back side to replicate the factory black primer (Photo 3). The top side will be painted body color. Still have a few minor dings and dents to hammer out, but wanted to get the spray bomb primer/paint on the back since it was above 50 degrees today.
  13. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Thanks Jeff. Yes, just scroll back through the posts and you'll see most of what I've done over the last 2 1/2 years.
  14. hursst

    1960 MGA Restoration

    Spent more time in the garage today, so this will be the last post before Christmas. Back to work, then some needed family time off. Here's a few more photos. Here's some of the chrome I got back; MG emblems and knurled nut and bracket for the side curtains. Paul's Chrome in Evans City, Pa does excellent work. (Photo 1). Started work on the final floorboards. Was able to reuse both original toe boards and 1 of the two front floorboards (Photos 2 & 3). The one on the left is a repro. I drilled the holes for the mounting hardware and I coated it with 3 coats of special wood sealer/primer. After 2 days of curing, it will be painted black, as factory. On the right is the passenger side original toe board. I'll sand it down to a reasonable level, clean it up, and repaint the original black. Also bought some caster wheels. I'm going to make a body stand so I can roll the body out, get it onto a trailer, and get it to the sandblasting shop in a few months. Should also be convenient for priming and painting. My friends want me to try to paint this thing at home. I'm not so sure, having never painted a car before, especially one needing so much body work. We'll see. Also, thanks to all the visitors to my project and the other posters in this forum, I've been able to keep very motivated and inspired by everyone else's extraordinary work. Merry Christmas!
  15. hursst

    1930 Plymouth Generator Cutout switch always on

    Matt/Terry, Thank you, that was very helpful. I think this clears everything up for me. The generator does not run when the car is turned off. I pulled the cover on the cut out switch and the points are not touching when the ignition is off. Also, I always disconnect the battery when I park the car. Too many stories about fires, so that couldn't have been the long term issue. Wasn't sure about the cut out switch always being on when the car was running, but since that appears to be normal, I think everything is back to working correctly. I think my issues were a weak battery combined with a very dirty starter. Once I took care of both of those problems and adjusted the third brush to put out less power from the generator (only up to 12 amps), I think I'm good to go. Time to put on the side curtains and do some cold weather driving. Regards, Chris