hursst

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About hursst

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  • Birthday 12/19/1972

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  • Location:
    Woodbridge, VA

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  1. Finally got some time to work on the MG today. Made some decent progress. First, I was able to weld on the lower half of the outer rocker. I think I really have the spot weld part down now, almost no mistakes. Cleaned up easy with a little bit of grinding. I test-fitted the rear fender (Photo 1) to make sure it lines up properly with the outer rocker and it did (Photo 1). It will need some minor adjustment, but should go on easy when the time comes. Also finished welding that fender up, too, with all the extra cuts and bends I had to make to make the patch panel fit. What a mess. It actually turned out very well. Still needs a lot of finishing work, but the hard work is finished. Hard to see, since it's painted in primer black, but here's the outer rocker on the car (Photo 2). Now for the bad news. Do you think this repro out rocker panel fit properly? Not a chance. More repro garbage. The curvature on the lower part of the piece, from the shelf to the bottom edge does not have a severe enough curvature to it. So, my plan is to weld the bottom first, then line up the 4 rivet holes on each side with nails to position them, then weld in the top portion, then try to bend the curve enough to get the 4 holes lined up for rivets. Right now, I got some nails in the 4 holes, but they are way off. Not sure how I'm going to make this work yet. I tried bending it by hand off the car, but had minimal progress. I thought with the piece stabilized, I could get more leverage. More wasted time thanks for shoddy workmanship with these repro parts. In the meantime, I went over to the other side and started there. I removed the outer rocker panel upper portion that was spot welded to the main vertical piece (Photo 3). This went far easier than the other side, since I have the right equipment and generally know what I'm doing at this point. I should have this side done in half that time as the other side. Think I got a call about my engine last week, like I was promised? Not a chance. No call this week, either. I'll be calling again Monday to see what the holdup could possibly be. Engine should be ready to go and back at the British car shop now, but it is not. Still working side projects to keep it interesting. Just about have the grille assembly complete, really just need to clean up the inner grille structure, then bolt the thing together.
  2. I am selling a Delco Remy 943 J Generator, restored about 2 years ago. Adjustable functioning third brush, new wiring, new oil fill caps, new bearings and original ID tag, all as original. Works great, has maybe 200 miles on it. Comes with pulley and cut-out switch mounting screws as well. I do not know if this is the original pulley, but probably is. Is correct for 1929 -1933 Chevy 6 cyl., 1934-1935 Studebaker, 1929 GMC T11-T19, 1930-1932 GMC T11-T15- T19, 1934-1935 GMC T16 T18 T23 and 1929 -1931 Pontiac 6 cyl. Also can be used as a replacement for similar generator models, such as the 943 R and S, and maybe other models. Please check your parts interchange guides. Asking $240 + shipping costs via FedEx. Far cheaper than buying a core and having it rebuilt professionally. Call, text, or PM Chris 703-565-7476.
  3. Mike, thanks for the link. I will take a look as I can definitely use more tips on welding! Chris
  4. Mike, ok, I'll experiment without the primer and try to get it better dialed in. In the meantime, today, I painted the inner rocker with chassis black after I primered it a few days ago (Photo 2). Should give a little added protection and to reproduce the look of the original panel, which was a semi-gloss primer. Then, I thought I could prep and tack in the outer rocker panel, but guess what? The repro outer rocker panel doesn't fit, as expected. Here's a shot of it at the bottom (Photo 1). The lower flange should be flush with the existing flange from the inner rocker panel that is already installed. It's not even close. I tried bending it at the center of the curved radius, but do not have the leverage to bend it by hand. I think what I'll have to do is tack it properly flush at the bottom, then try bending it from the top, enough to get some clamps in place at the top, then try to bend it from there. Should have more leverage with the bottom being tacked in. Still have more prep work to do on the outer rocker, but will try again in a few days. All these crappy repro parts are adding on so much wasted time to the restoration. Still doing lots of smalls on the side, for when I get frustrated with the large stuff and need a break. Currently working on the inner front grille bars and their hardware. They may need some professional straightening. They are not too bad as is, but I don't think they are good enough. I called the British car shop about my engine again yesterday, as it's been another month. They claim that the machine shop is finished and shipping the engine over to their shop and it should be there within 1 week. I don't think I believe a word of it, but I hope it's true. Once it gets back to their shop, I will supply them all the ancillary parts that I restored and they would build the engine on a test stand, run it and break it in, as part of the deal. Keeping my fingers crossed. Today marks 3 years since I bought this heap. I can't imagine how all you other restorers finish your cars so quickly. I think I have another 3 years left at the pace I'm going.
  5. Mike, I tried a flapper wheel and that worked better, thanks again for the tip. I don't think the welding primer is an issue, I'd rather have it than not have it to try to prevent future rust forming, I think I just need to keep improving at welding. I think maybe my wire speed is not fast enough and I'm getting a lot of burning and heat, but not enough weld wire flow. Next round will be spot welding again, which is easier, but I still need to refine my technique. Chistech, I'm glad (glad isn't the right word!) that other folks are experiencing what I've been experiencing. I think the only solution is to find the right vendor, then always stay with them. My problem has been recently that I think I've found the right vendor and it works great for a while, but I get let down after a while and they are no longer anyone I want to do business with. I found the right mechanic, chrome vendor and tire vendor, but just about everyone else has failed or let me down at some point. I long for the day where I can simply drive, enjoy, and maintain my old cars, not constantly have to repair them mainly due to other peoples' failings or business shortcomings. At least I'm learning a lot and slowly improving my own skills. Have a great week everyone! -Chris
  6. ...next I made a third tab and repeated again, blending it into the rest of the contour of the patch panel. I then did the same idea on the left side where I bent the edge up flat, but didn't make any cuts (Photo 1). I then re-bent the edge so it matched up with the contours of the original fender. I will cut off the excess metal after I'm finished welding it on. Although this took me a few hours to complete, it went really really well, considering. I'll just need a little grinding and detail work to make it perfect. Everything matches up now just about perfectly. Here's the original panel with the rot cut out (Photo 2). I then applied some weld-thru primer. Initially, the welding went okay, I stitch-welded it together, but I'm having issues with some minor burn-thru and not enough coverage. When I grind down the weld, I'm left with a lot of clumps of weld that look like islands, plus the act of grinding heats everything up and sinks the welded section down. I'm constantly trying to add more weld to fill in these small depressions around these weld islands, then fighting the warping during grinding. I got the right half looking pretty good, but the left half continues to suffer some burn-thru or this island-like weld clumping, which is not shown in the photo. I think the metal around the weld I'm applying is burning around the weld, leaving small depressions like a slightly sunken halo (there is a backing tab built into the patch panel, so the butt weld has this depressed tab behind it for better support). Here's where I am currently, I'm getting there, but it still needs more work (ready to grind again) (Photo 3). My welding skills have improved, but I think went went from a 2 to maybe a 3 on a scale of 1-10 since I started. I'll get it right, it will just take me a lot of extra time.
  7. Today I broke out my passenger side rear fender. I previously blasted it and found a lot of perforated metal at the bottom (Photo 1). I bought a patch panel a while ago and decided to install it today. Take a guess if it was a well designed good fitting patch panel. Answer: Not even close. When I line up the character line in the fender, here's how far off it is on either side (Photo 2). A real piece of garbage. I have no choice but to re-engineer it myself. So, I took the right hand side upper tab, bent it out and flattened it, then re-bent it to where it should be (Photo 3). I did the same thing with the second tab (Photo 4) in order to get a match to the contours of the original fender...
  8. I have the same setup on mine. I am using a large mobile compressor, which seems to be part of the problem, it creates a lot of moisture and is sensitive to humidity, since I have to have it outside when using the blaster.
  9. A little bit of progress today. Friday, I tried sandblasting my exhaust, but the clogmaster 2000 did it's job and clogged up about halfway thru, then it would last about 30 seconds before clogging again. Too much moisture in the system with the high humidity around here. Very frustrating. Finished it with a wire wheel and Dremel tool, which added a lot of extra time. Ended up with about 5 small holes in the muffler, and tried to fix them with fuel tank sealant. We'll see if it works or not. Then painted the whole thing with hi-heat exhaust paint (Photo 1). Turned out very nice, but looks like a painted exhaust, which is better than rust, but not as "authentic looking" as bare steel or an aluminized exhaust. Happy to have an original exhaust system either way. Installed it on the car, but missing a rear exhaust clamp and the muffler is oriented about 45 degrees too far clockwise, so I'm going to have to try to unbolt the muffler on a 60-year old exhaust. Didn't know it was oriented incorrectly util I got it on the car.
  10. Starting to assemble some of the chrome bits. Here's my latest stash (Photo 1). Was able to put the grille shell together; very pleased with the chrome (Photo 2). The grille itself needs some minor straightening, some polishing, and some new hardware bits before it's ready. Luckily, no chrome work needed. I was able to pick up some new welding wire last week, so I will be resuming welding the final portions of the inner rocker, where they connect to the door pillars, then I'll tackle the outer rocker. I'll have to try to hang the door to get the spacing correct. Will probably be a little tricky. After that, it will be time to start on the other side. Should be easier now that I know a little about what I'm doing. Still working all the other bits on the side, like the new exhaust I bought, stripping paint off fenders, and working other bits and pieces. Once I get paint on the body, this thing should fly back together since I'll have most of he ancillary parts ready to go. Getting the body will not be fast, it's still quite a mess.
  11. Just got back from Carlisle, Pa (import nationals) and a mini holiday. Didn't find too much at Carlisle, but did get a few great items. I found a good original bumper to replace my original pretzelled bumper, which is beyond repair for a show car. Maybe could be straightened somewhat for a driver. Found a great repro heater inlet tube, and found a complete original exhaust system, with original muffler (Photo 1 & 2), which is a big deal, I think. Has some surface rust, I little pitting on the muffler, but should clean up quite well. I'll throw some high-quality exhaust paint on it and it should be good to go. Was able to redo and install the accelerator pedal assembly from when I refinished it last week. Turned out perfectly (Photo 3). Picked up a lot of really nice show chrome from Librandis while I was near Carlisle and dropped off the rear bumper, the front bumper ends, and the rest of the telescoping steering column assembly for re-chroming.
  12. I can probably find them at my local junkyard; he has thousands of hubcaps. I'll be going there June 7th. If you don't find a set before then, PM me as a reminder.
  13. The excuse I get back is that the machine shop gets in 100 small block Chevies to every MG-type engine, so they have the equipment set up to just do Chevies and every so often, they will do a run of "other" stuff, as they have to change out the machine settings. I think it's just laziness and they don't care. I'm at their mercy, I just have to tough it out. Luckily, I don't care too much, as I still have plenty of other work to do on the car in the meantime, so nothing is being held up...yet. We'll see if they can keep the current deadline of June 7th to get the machine work on the "new" engine finished.
  14. I ran out of welding wire (I will get some in a few days at the Carlisle, PA show, or at Eastwood), so I've moved back to stripping paint off the fenders again. I'm now doing the rear passenger fender. This fender was hit at some point. You can see crease lines on the inside of the fender, plus there is tons of bondo (Photo 1). When I bought this car, it had this monstrosity on it as a home-made tail light (Photo 2). Strange, as they did a fairly decent job pounding the fender back in shape, so getting a new tail light assembly wouldn't have been that tough. Here's what it should look like (Photo 3). I'll have to do some more hammer work with the bag to get the fender a little closer. They used too much bondo, but some will be required to get it perfect. Next, I ran out of paint stripper, so I went back to the to-do parts pile and pulled out the accelerator pedal assembly. This piece can actually go back on the car now, although I'll have to move it a little to get the engine/trans back in. Was able to strip the rust off and get it in primer. Seems like I'm past the half-way point now, the body is about 15% there, the engine should be ready in a little over a month, and I've really done quite a few of the small and misc pieces on the side, they are starting to add up. There is now space in my to-do parts piles as pieces get finished. This week, I'll be picking up some pieces I had chromed, dropping off more pieces to get chromed, then going to the Carlisle Import Nationals to buy more parts for the car that are missing or damaged beyond repair. Should be a productive week.
  15. Does the top have any rips in it? If not, any chance of just cleaning the inside? How fragile is it? It looks to be in amazing shape from the exterior, but old and dirty on the inside. Would be a shame to replace something that original, but I do see how the inside would not work with the rest of the car being perfect.