hursst

Members
  • Content Count

    730
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by hursst

  1. I have not visited the shop since I saw the raw block and delivered all the ancillary parts. I think you're right, it's probably time for another visit if it's not ready this week.
  2. Got another day in today, although limited progress. My big task for the day was to install the lower windshield frame piece to the lower part of the windshield with the glazing material. Would think it would take about 10-15 minutes, took about 3.5 hrs (Photo 1). The trouble was that it was just me (I could have used a helper), and it was not going in the way everyone says it should (they never do). The 3+ hours was spent trying a method, failing, then starting over. Each time I learned a little more and changed my technique. The way I did it was to put some dielectric grease on the inside of the channel. then set the glazing in the channel, then place the windshield on top of the channel just enough to get a little pressure on it. Next, whilst standing up and using my ankles as a vice, pull the glazing material out of the channel (with the windshield providing weight to hold it roughly in place), then even out the glazing so that there is as much material in the front as the back. Next, gently press in the corners so they are loosely seated. Keep making adjustments, as the glazing will move in the center. Using most of my body weight, I then leaned over the center of the windshield with my stomach, and held the to corners in place while applying pressure. Once I got it somewhat seated, I flipped it over and repeated the process, which gave me a little more leverage by pressing the frame into the windshield, instead of vice-versa. I eventually got it to seat with all glazing at least even with the frame. It must of looked like I was greco-roman wrestling the windshield the whole time, I'm glad there is no footage. I won in the end. Now I have to wait for the rest of the hardware from Moss to continue. I then went out and cleaned up my welding to expose the pinholes and other issues in the rear fender (Photo 2). It wasn't as bad as I thought, but still needs a lot of touch up welding, I also cleaned up a welding seam that was sticking out on the rear of the fender from a previous owner, but ended up opening a hole next to the weld, which I had to fix as well. Last, I broke out the headlight assemblies. I cleaned up the outer bezel, which cleaned up nicely, but is not quite good enough, so it will have to be rechromed. The inner bezels cleaned up nicely, but they will not be seen, so they are fine (Photo 3). The outer buckets will need to be sandblasted, as they are quite rusty. I had the headlights tested, and they work, but they are not correct, although they are 55 years old. I found a set of Lucas headlights in my local junkyard on a Triumph Spitfire that are a little newer than I need, but the originals do not exist anywhere that I can find, and they are not reproduced.
  3. I may be able to find one for you. I'm going to a yard Friday where there are 5 '69 Impalas, so may be able to locate one.
  4. As I suspected, the engine was not delivered and delayed yet again. This is getting laughable. This time, it was run yesterday on the engine test stand and the second carb was running differently than the first, plus the distributor timing had a short or something, and would randomly vary about 15 degrees, from what the British car shop told me. They are continuing to work on the problems they keep finding. Getting a little ridiculous that they can't seem to get this thing dialed in. It's been two months since the engine was "finished." I'll be really lucky to get it before Christmas. In the meantime, I tried to make it a productive day anyway. I welded up my last patch panel on the rear fender (Photo 1), although this effort is far more sloppy than my other latest efforts. The original metal is a little thinner due to minor rust on the inside, so there was much more burn through. I'll need to do a lot more grinding and filling in of many pin holes, but the heavy lifting is done. I also pieced together the inner grille and grille shell into one piece (Photo 2). Although mostly complete, here's what I started with (Photo 3). Dingy, faded, and dented, not to mention rusty hardware. Thanks to Librandi's Plating, I was able to get all the original grille parts refurbished instead of replaced. Very pleased. I finished up with the dozens of nuts and bolts for the driver's side front fender, so both fronts are in primer and ready to be installed when the time comes (most of them will be attached, then painted body color, as was done originally). Now onto either the rear hardware, or maybe the headlight buckets. I continued working on the windshield frame assembly by installing the weatherstripping and few brackets. I'm waiting on the Moss hardware kit so I can replace about 1/2 of the hardware that was broken or drilled out during disassembly. I also ended up finding my missing original "Auster" badge for the windshield. I had placed it in the hardware bag for the grille assembly, not the windshield assembly, so I am happy to have found that, and it was more a matter of not paying enough attention than forgetfulness. Cheers.
  5. Have been busier than ever recently, no time to work on the car, or read too many of the other great restos on the site. Over Thanksgiving, I was able to pick up my newly chromed windshield frame parts and repaired and polished grille insert (Photo 1). Turned out great. Now I have to piece it all back together. At least half of the screws I had to drill out of the windshield frame assembly, and these are fairly unique screws, so I'll have to buy the Moss hardware kit to replace the missing screws. As always, I will reuse the original screws that are serviceable. Unfortunately, I either lost or misplaced the original "Auster" manufacturer tag that went on the windshield. They make a repro of it, so I'm not too worried, but hate to lose or misplace anything. Somehow, I also managed to lose or misplace my MGA shop manual, which is tough, as it's fairly large. My only guess is that I used it as a reference and left it at Moss Motors when I was there last. I've been a little overwhelmed with things lately and I think I'm putting stuff down to do something else that needs quick attention, then forgetting to put whatever I placed down back where it belongs, as I've been so distracted by an avalanche of things that need attention, automotive and otherwise. Hoping these things reappear soon. Tomorrow I should be getting my engine, but I have very little hope that will happen, since it's been continually delayed week after week. I'll post photos if I get it.
  6. Been away for a while, but not too much progress. The engine was supposed to be delivered Monday, but the builder found a puddle of oil under the engine on the test stand before he was ready to crate it and deliver it. Turns out it's a leaking rear seal and leaky timing cover gasket. Always something. We're going to try again Dec 1st. In the meantime, I got my last fender patch panel from Moss. I was able to cut out the rust (Photos 1 & 2), this time by targeting the bad areas instead of using the entire patch panel like I did on the other rear fender. I did the same procedure, I used the cut out part as a template to cut out fresh metal on the patch panel. I should have done this on the other side too, as there was a lot of unnecessary fabrication work due to the repro panel being a piece of junk. I got the patch panel clamped in, it's now ready to be welded, probably in another 2 weeks when I get some more time. On the side, I'm continuing to work on the fender hardware a little at a time. Very slow, but still steady progress. Happy Thanksgiving!
  7. Steve, if you still need the bracket, I can probably get you one on Friday, we are going back to our junkyard. Just let me know beforehand. -Chris
  8. Decided to work just a half day today, since it's Veterans Day. Got back to work on the welding. This one went even better than the other fender, I finished in faster time and with better results (Photo 1). I still have a lot of minor cleanup and trimming to do, but the goal is to finish all the major welding on all 4 fenders. Three out of four finished. I can't do the last fender, as I am not caught up to purchasing the patch panel from Moss yet. I'll have to place an order soon. I then continued on more fender hardware for a little longer (Photo 2). Got a call from Librandis, my chrome guys, and the windshield frame and grille inner I sent out are already complete. Turnaround was only 4 weeks, last time it was over 4 months. I'll be picking that stuff up in a couple weeks, then I'll be able to build my windshield frame and windshield as a sub-assembly. I think for now I'm going to continue on the fender hardware, then bring in the headlight assemblies as the next side project. I'll do this until I get my next Moss order in a few weeks, then get back to that last fender. In the meantime, I should be getting a call any time about the engine. I'll have to arrange a week-day delivery as I'm busy weekends for a while. My first step will be to detail the filthy chassis before I install the engine.
  9. Haha. Lesson learned on my part. The only good thing about this is I really don't need the engine back in any particular hurry, as I'm doing the entire car. There's still plenty more work to do without the engine. I couldn't imagine having a complete car sitting there for 15 months with the engine being done over 15 months (and counting).
  10. Today, found a nail in my tire of my '74 Camaro, so had to fix that, had to vacuum out the interiors of my other cars, had to adjust my sunroof on a another car, and had to adjust the power window setup on my Camaro as well, to fix a rattle. Then went to the Marine Corps 244th birthday at the Quantico museum and got some cake, too. Not as much time with the MGA today. Almost the same as yesterday, except on the opposite fender. This one has slightly less damage (Photo 1). Did the same procedure as yesterday and cut out a slice from the repro panel (Photo 2). Here's the cut-out fender and then the repro panel installed and ready for welding, hopefully tomorrow afternoon. (Photos 3 & 4). Here's to Veterans Day and all our Veterans and to Remembrance Day for my Commonwealth friends.
  11. hursst

    Fluid Changes

    Thanks for the tips. I think I'm probably okay with my gear oil, then. I'm up to 14 years in my more modern car, but it's only been 9,000 miles since then, plus I'm using synthetic.
  12. hursst

    Fluid Changes

    Hello, With many of our old cars, we don't put enough miles on them to facilitate fluid changes based on use, but it ends up being based on time. How often (in years) do folks change out their rear axle fluid, manual transmission fluid, and brake fluid, when the cars are not driven enough to hit mileage requirements? I am wondering if I may be going too long, or changing too short. Thanks. Chris
  13. And here is the mostly completed job (Photo 1). I still need to clean up the very lower parts at the lip with a dremel grinder, then I have to even the metal out a little more to eliminate as much use of filler as possible. Note how the lower flange is significantly wider on the repro panel than on the original. I'll have to trim it, then make some new holes/expand the existing ones. Enough welding for today, moving on to some more hardware refinishing. Cheers
  14. Another two weeks of work, sleep, a short weekend vacation, repeat. Got another free weekend. No word from the British car shop about my engine; we had originally planned on having it delivered Nov 2nd weekend, but postponed to Nov 9th, as I was out of town Nov 2nd. I had to call them to get an update. This time it's the flywheel ring gear that is slightly out of alignment with the starter teeth, so it's going back to the machine shop. Yet another delay. Going on month 15 for the engine work. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I'm shifting back to body panel repair. This weekend I'm tackling the driver's side front fender. Here's what I'm starting with, pretty severe rust out (Photo 1). The rest of the panel is in great shape. The repair panel is made in Taiwan, and guess what, it doesn't fit properly, of course. I decided to just cut out the bad section instead of cutting the whole lower section out, as the replacement panel is the entire length of the lower part of the fender. Here's where I decided to cut (Photo 2). There is some pitting outside of the box, but the metal is quite solid there overall. I cut out the same shape from the repair panel, so now I don't have to worry about the rest of it not fitting. Here's what I cut out compared to what I cut out of the patch panel. With a little more adjustment and cutting, I was able to cut a very good fit (Photo 4). As you can also see, I really couldn't cut any higher on the fender, as there is a large support bracket in the inner part of the fender, plus it's in excellent condition. I also left a small strip on the far end of the fender to ensure I got the proper contour, plus this little strip is mostly rust-free. I'll be trying to weld it in this afternoon.
  15. Jeff, great progress! Don't mean to hijack the thread, but, chistech, this sounds like a good idea. With my MGA resto, I have the same issue with my wooden floorboards against the metal chassis. I was going to go with an eastwood sealer, similar to body seam sealant, but seeing your post, I may reconsider. christech, do you think 30 weight tar paper would be a good replacement for the felt originally used between my metal chassis and plywood floorboards? Seems the answer would be yes. If so, where do you get 30 weight tar paper? Thanks guys. Chris
  16. Congrats, another classic gets back on the road. Great work!
  17. I vote #1 and #4. I don't think anyone really pays attention to what's in the reflection. Unless you are photographing an olive drab military vehicle, you have to live with reflections, especially when your paint reflects light like Larry David's bald head.
  18. I am selling a Delco Remy 943 J Generator, restored about 2 years ago. Adjustable functioning third brush, new wiring, new oil fill caps, new bearings and original ID tag, all as original. Works great, has maybe 200 miles on it. Comes with pulley and cut-out switch mounting screws as well. I do not know if this is the original pulley, but probably is. Is correct for 1929 -1933 Chevy 6 cyl., 1934-1935 Studebaker, 1929 GMC T11-T19, 1930-1932 GMC T11-T15- T19, 1934-1935 GMC T16 T18 T23 and 1929 -1931 Pontiac 6 cyl. Also can be used as a replacement for similar generator models, such as the 943 R and S, and maybe other models. Please check your parts interchange guides. Asking $200 + shipping costs via FedEx. Far cheaper than buying a core and having it rebuilt professionally. PM Chris if interested.
  19. Back to the MGA again today. First, got a call from the British Car shop. My engine is still not ready. They had another engine on their test stand that had issues, so everything is pushed back. I'm okay with it, as the shop is now communicating with me properly after my complaint. Now it's looking like Nov 9th when the engine will be ready. In the meantime, I'm going to attack the outer body panels and get them in better shape. I started back up with the front valence panel, which has been very challenging before. The initial large tear in the metal has re-opened 3 times now, so I've cut out a patch around it instead, the metal is just too thin and it's become a patchwork of patches (Photo 3). With about 2/3 of the tear, it has still kept, but this 1/3 keeps opening up. I also cut out some other bad areas and have welded in some fresh metal (Photos 1 & 2). I feel I've reached another level with my welding, I think I'm getting the hang of it and (with good metal), I think I can call myself "satisfactory." Still have a long way to go to get to the level of some of the folks on the site. I did some further banging on the panel and applied a nice coat of filler over the lower portion of the panel to see where I stand. I've done a lot of hammering on it, so it's not that bad, really. The upper part, which was spared from damage from the bumper being in front of it needs minimal pitting fill. I just need to weld in one more patch where the large tear in the metal was (again, photo 3), and it should be ready for a couple coats of etching primer, then I'll start sanding. Here's the whole panel (Photo 4), just before I cut out the square area and called it a day. Not bad so far, considering it looked like someone drove it through a parking lot full of anvils when I started. Last, I'm working on cleaning up the dozens and dozens of nuts, bolts, washers, and shims that hold on the 4 fenders. As always, will always try to reuse any part that's original, restorable, and safe, rather than use new or repro. Pretty easy work, but it's something like 270 individual pieces all told. Still thinking about how great Hershey was this year, too. Found an NOS door striker for my 1930 Plymouth in the bottom of a crate, an NOS vacuum wiper motor for my the same car, and found an NOS overflow tank cap and NOS oil filter for my '74 Camaro, among other great parts, signs, and other deals. A lot of good deals if you dug a little deeper and haggled, amongst all the rip-off artists there. Also saw some amazing cars that give me a really high bar to live up to with my resto.
  20. Late to the game, but congrats on the award(s)! I was able to see your car at Hershey and was simply blown away. Just a fantastic restoration.
  21. An MGA guy figured it out for me. Nash Metropolitan, for the record.
  22. Finished spot welding on the lower portion of the driver's side outer rocker today. I had to use a heavy-duty hand clamp to try to bend the radius of the panel enough so that the bottom lip of the rocker was flush with the bottom lip of the vertical support panel (Photo 1). I also had to make a wood block with a deep hole for the one side of the camp and a channel for the top side of the block, so the clamp wouldn't slide off the bottom of the rocker. I got it about 90% of the way there and that was about all it would go. I decided to call it good enough, as I don't really have any other option. I think it will still work okay. I will probably grind a little off the bottom to make it close to even. I will still need to have some width to attach the rocket trim pieces, so I can't grind too much. I also put together the freshly chromed parts from Librandi's for the adjustable steering column (Photo 3). Turned out very nice as well, but overall, this small section was a lot of work between re=chroming, replacing the telescoping chrome piece, and replacing the severely bent and warped primary sliding piece with key way. It all works as new now. Last, I put in the aluminum rivets that secure the outer rocker top side sections to the door pillars (Photo 2). The back one will be covered with a long scalloped "outer" pillar piece, so I think only the fronts will even be seen. Had to drill a few new holes for a few of them, as the repro outer rocker was so far off from the original. I still need some cleanup work, like grinding down the newer spot welds, fixing any pinholes that appear, grinding the bottom section, as described earlier, and I think I forgot about 3 spot welds in one of the corners of the outer rocker. I'll also need to bang out the small creases I put in the driver's side rocker when I tried to bend them. The main goal was to get them both on the structurally so I could move the body without worrying about too much flex.
  23. I bought these at Hershey for a very good deal. I thought they may be MGA (I'm restoring an MGA) and they look almost exactly like an MGA, but they have curved cutouts for the bumper instead of a fully contoured shape, as on the MGA. They are also very slightly different in size and there is a bracket that mounts on the interior fixed bracket inside of the over rider. From the front view, they are virtually identical to the MGA. Any idea on what these fit?
  24. Great work on the interior, looks fantastic and very comfortable, too.