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hursst

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Everything posted by hursst

  1. Completed sanding the driver's side front fender today (Photo 1). Thinking about maybe trying to sell it as modern art; that's a crazy pattern that has come thru with the sanding. Besides the colors and pattern, it seems quite smooth, so I think the next round of sanding of the 4 coats of primer should be fairly easy with minimal reworking/filling in low spots. Will probably hit it with some 220 grit, to give it a more even finish that will allow for more bite of the primer. Almost out of primer, so will have to break the bank and buy more soon. Next will be the passenger side front fender. It's already about 85% finished from the previous work I did, will just need another good block sanding and some minor touch up, and that should be good as well. The only panel I haven't done anything with except basic body work and a first few layers of primer is the driver's rear fender, which will need a lot more work, since it had some pretty major damage before I started on it. It looks like it snowed inside my garage. Will do a thorough clean up of the major areas of the garage when all the panels are finished, but do not want to get it too nice, as there will still be more bodywork with the actual body, which is about 60% finished at this point.
  2. Thanks, I hope I can get some good results at the end.
  3. Been getting an average of 45 minutes in the garage during the week, trying to move this project along. I finished round 3 on the lower valance panel (Photo 1). I practically started over on it a couple months ago, it just wasn't up to standard. In its current guise, it is nice and smooth and seems pretty straight, although you can clearly see all the filler that I needed to save it. It will still need 2-3 more rounds after I apply primer to it, but I think I can get it right now. Also have been putting in a lot of effort on the driver's side front fender. It was just not very even, so I applied filler to most of the panel to try to get a good baseline surface. There is more filler than not, on the surface, so will need a lot more work. I'm currently trying to get a baseline of "smooth" at 120 grit, but had quite a few low spots, hence the glazing putty that I just applied (Photos 2 & 3). Looking for some advice with this, once I sand that glazing putty, the whole thing should be quite straight, but there is more filler than not, on the surface. Should I hammer down the obvious high points in the middle section where it's just bare metal, then re-sand to try to eliminate more of the filler, or should I sand it smooth and leave it be for the next round, which will be 3 or so layers of primer? I'm thinking hammering is the answer, but it could go either way.
  4. Jeff, thanks for the tips, I will definitely use them. Still sanding, filling, priming. So far so good. Can't wait to see your next posting.
  5. Amazing work. I hope I can get just somewhat close to that level of work on mine. Congrats, you're almost there.
  6. Steve, Try Fine Lines or Inline Tubing for your brake lines. For your carb, try Larry Isgro; he's the best in the country, plus he's in New York. He redid my 1974 Z28 Carb (after I had it rebuilt by 5 other rebuilders, yes you're reading the correctly, all of which failed), but Larry was able to sort it out at rebuild me a perfect carb. (516) 783-1041 or you can google him. -Chris
  7. I have seen this before, I think at the Hershey car show but I can't remember exactly which car. There are other makes that had this, or something like it. I want to say Mercer or Locomobile offered it, but I could be way off. Similar to the Vulcan 4-speed electric gear shift, which was one of the earlier automotive recalls, since the system didn't work. Keep trying, someone on this site knows about your shifter.
  8. Thanks Steve! I guess I can say that all of this stuff IS getting done, just slower than I would wish. But you are right, persistence and detail will pay off. I won't be happy with the work until I'M happy with the work, so it will mean 2-5 rounds of bodywork per panel, as I keep seeing flaws as I go. However, each round produces drastically less flaws, so I'm moving in the right direction. No photos today, but I mostly finished the battery cover panel (will need one more thin layer of primer), I sanded down the trunk lid (looking really good, but will need 1-2 more layers of primer in some areas, then a final sanding), and I and doing more body work on the passenger rear fender that I primered yesterday. Sanded out 1/2 of the issues and added more filler to the other problem areas for future sanding. will be bringing two of the panels to my bodywork mentor tomorrow to see his thought on the trunk lid and the battery cover panel, since those are very close to being ready for paint, and appear very straight to me so far. Wishing everyone a Happy 4th of July; really happy to be celebrating our freedoms today, including the freedom to work on our old cars and pursue our own personal happiness. Time to crack a beer, eat some great food and celebrate now! -Chris -Chris
  9. Staying home all this weekend, so am able to get in about a 1/2 day on the MG each day, still am overwhelmed with many other house and other car-related tasks. Today, I continued sanding the battery cover panel as well as the passenger rear fender. It was a lot of extra work, there was a lot of damage to the rear fender in terms of very large and very small dents, plus some pitting from rust, especially on the top where the fender meets the body, so I had to use more filler than I would have liked. In addition, there was a lot of work where I welded on the patch panel at the very bottom of the fender (Photos 1 & 2). Thought I got them pretty smooth, so I broke out the primer gun again and completed round two of primer. Turned out pretty well (Photos 3 & 4). The battery cover panel had a little extra filler coming thru, so that will need some sanding, otherwise, it's ready for some sanding up to 400 grit and should be ready for paint. This panel wasn't perfect from the factory, so it will have a few minor imperfections to it. The fender turned out very well overall, but there are some minor problems with filler at the edges of the panel that will need some minor fill-in, the glazing putty at the center front of the panel isn't quite deep enough, so you can still see the small dents there, a couple scratches and pits that I missed at the back, and the accent line where I did the welding isn't perfect and will need some more work. Overall, items that can be fixed very easily and quickly, except maybe the accent line, of which I'm on my second try now. Really trying to keep at it and get this car to paint, as it will be holding me back, potentially, with my pending retirement. Can't move when I have an MG in a hundred pieces and a filthy garage, although I don't HAVE to move soon, but I'd like to. Thanks, also, for all the positive comments, they keep me motivated to keep moving this along. -Chris
  10. Have done zero on the MG since the last post, until today. Went to a Jeep festival, a college friends reunion, and the Camaro nationals, and have had no time. Got back out there today and continued, this time, I got the paint sprayer out to catch up on getting some more primer on some of the panels and continuing the process. Seems the more work I do on these panels, the more work has to be done, although I do see progress each time. Today, I was able to do bodywork on and re-spray the battery cover panel (Photos 2 & 3), three inner fender panels, the gauge cluster, and the trunk lid. I did some more bodywork on them and sprayed some of them again. You can see the ring I made of filler that was made from the spare tire rusting that goes thru the trunk and hangs over/on the battery cover. This was a ring of rust pits, maybe caused by condensation coming off the spare tire and landing on the battery cover panel over 45 years. I was able to get a couple of the inner fender panels done and ready for paint, plus I think the gauge cluster is about ready, but the others are not ready yet, they still need more work. The trunk panel appears to be in really good shape now, and should just need a final sanding with 400 grit. Here it is before I applied more primer (Photo 1). On the other panels, I'm finding a few pits that haven't filled in totally and a few small air bubbles in the filler on some of the other work. Nothing major, but more work to do. I also added some more filler on the front valance panel as well. I still have work to do on the three of the four fenders that I've been working over the last few months, but they need more sanding of the filler I've applied, plus some more primer, which I hope to get to July 4th weekend. Here's one of the fenders currently (Photo 4). This is definitely not a fun part of the restoration. When I'm finished with the panels, I'll have my buddy over who's been doing body work for 20 years, and see what he thinks of my work, just to see if I'm on the right track.
  11. Left work early today and got in a couple hours in the garage. Today, I pulled off the driver's side front fender, after getting it nicely matched up with the door, and started sanding it. Those two pieces are original to the car, so I expected them to match up easily, and they did. It's got a lot of low areas, so started applying some filler (Photo 1). Haven't sanded it yet. It had a lot of pitting, just like the other fender, where the upper fender meets the body, where moisture and water collected in the low area there over 45 years. The front of the fender all around has a lot of pitting, so it may have been in an open barn and this is the side that faced towards the outside??? Anyway, shallow pitting, no big deal, but will need a lot of filler. A few small dents that have come up now that I'm doing additional block sanding. I also started the same process on the front of the body. A lot of pitting all over the front half of the body, more so on the driver's side than passenger side, so the whole thing will need filler, for the most part (Photo 2). I also sanded the backside of one of the inner fender braces, so that's now ready for a small amount of final primer. I'm actually making fairly good progress now. There's a chance I could have the body finished in primer before winter, but no way I'll have it painted. Still waiting for a full day to be available so I can apply primer to the other body parts that are ready for more, but haven't found the time, so I'll keep on sanding and filling in the meantime. I originally thought I could have the body ready for final primer in early summer, but there's just too much work to do and too little time available to work it.
  12. Finally got back out to the garage. Yes, it is a stuck cut out switch, as most folks predicted. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions! I guess the next question would be, why would it stick? I freed it up pretty easily. Should I replace it, or just monitor it to see if it keeps doing it? I filed the points a little to maybe make them a little cleaner to resist sticking... -Chris
  13. Thanks, I will investigate this in the next few days, when I have some time to get out to the garage, and report back. Thanks for the replies!
  14. Hello, I have a severe parasitic leak on the battery of my 1930 Plymouth. I have to disconnect the battery almost immediately, before the battery starts discharging. For example, a few months back, I got some gas, checked the oil, brake fluid, etc, messed around for about 10-15 minutes, and the battery did not have enough power to start the car, just in that short amount of time. Luckily, I was able to push start the car. I tried testing it myself with a multimeter, but I have no idea what I am doing with electric. I know to start with the battery to see how much draw is occurring, but I get no results, because I don't know what I'm doing. Can I test at the battery to see if a parasitic leak is occurring, using a multimeter with the Plymouth's 6-Volt Positive Ground system? If so, how do I do it and what are the settlings for the multi-meter? Thanks for any advice! -Chris
  15. If you're a stickler for originality, try White Post Restorations. https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/ They are in White Post, Virginia. They have a brake service in addition to their restoration work. They've redone the original brake components on all my old cars and I've never had a problem. They did my 1930 30U wheel cylinders, and they are perfect. They also have a LIFETIME guarantee, so you don't have to worry.
  16. "I called last week and they told me they have been busy and haven’t touched it. So 8-9 months they’ve done nothing when they used to get motors finished and back to me in about 4-5 months." My MGA engine took over a year. There are not enough shops to do this work, so they have the luxury of taking their time. I wish some young people could be turned on to these "lost arts," as they would have a virtual monopoly if they could learn to do these unique old car tasks; plus they'd probably be making six figures a year, easy. No reason to go to college, just an apprenticeship or trade school. Once you get a small client base established, you'll never need to advertise, either.
  17. Yes, pressing ahead, I really want to at least get the the point where the paint is finished. The reassembly is the fairly easy, fun, and fast part. Kept the momentum going today, in between a lot of yard work. Went back to the rear fender; had a lot of small irregularities, mostly pitting, but had a few small dents and some waves in the repro patch panel portion, of course. Here's some of the work, using glazing putty and various other fillers (Photos 1 & 2). Sanded it all down and it's just about ready for more primer, just needs a little more work on the top of the fender where it attached to the body, still has some pitting that needs work. In between all the other activity, I went to work on the body. Found two dents and a lot of pitting. Most of it could be covered with glazing putty, but had to use some filler in a larger dent (Photo 3). Pretty pleased with the progress, as I realize how little of the outside of the body there is, meaning that the portion I have to finish perfectly is very small. Most of the inner body and the areas that will be covered just need a quick sanding with 320 grit and it's pretty much ready for final primer, since no one will see these areas.
  18. You seem to be restoring these cars faster than the time it took to originally build them. Great work, as usual!
  19. Finally, a 3 day weekend at home. Was going to do yard work today, but it rained most of the day, so off to the garage. First, took after the rear fender work I've been doing. I finished getting a rough filing on the leading I did, then matched it up to the door (Photo 1). Definitely better than before, but still not even. I hit it (and the side of the fender with some filler to better work the contours and clean up the filing and sanding work I did (Photo 2). Results came it pretty good so far. I got a nice, tight gap on the door (Photo 3) and a fairly even contour on the wheel lip part of the fender (Photo 4). It probably won't look as good with the primer on it, but I'm definitely getting close. The fender is now ready for a full round of block sanding. I did the major bodywork and filler on it a while ago, but it needs a good block sanding to bring out the imperfections, of which there are quite a few small ones. Got a little bored with the fender work, so pretty much finished adding filler and the sanding of the trunk, and I finished the rough sanding of the front area behind the grille that was heavily pitted. I then continued sanding the body with 320 grit to get it ready for filler primer. I finished sanding the entire passenger length of the car, since I then had all the fenders and door off again, then started sanding the passenger side of the outside body, from the grille, to the beside the hood, up to the driver's compartment. The existing primer/sealer was very rough because of the poor job I did with the filler a little too dry, before I knew exactly what I was doing. Sanded out nicely, though, will be fine after filler primer. Will be doing at least something on it tomorrow- moving it along.
  20. Made some time after work today. Moved on to the rear passenger fender to tackle the problems at the lower front of the fender. The first issue is that the patch I welded on doesn't have the right curve to it in the middle of the radius (Photo 1). It looks far worse when the door is on, and you can clearly see the deviation. The other problem was on the lower front wheel well area, where the same patch panel was simply poorly stamped. It had a slight crease on the inside lip that went to the edge and made for an uneven and poorly contoured transition from the wheel arch curve to the bottom, and thru the bottom of the fender. The black line is roughly where the edge of the panel should be (Photo 2). For the first problem, I ground everything down to bare metal at this spot, and leaded it, to build up enough material so I can file it down to the proper curve. Here it is with the rough lead (Photo 3). I'll still need to file down the lead to get a reasonable contour, then put in some filler to make it acceptable. Should turn out nicely. The last work was the other section, where I used a hammer and dolly to flatten the crease as best as possible, then hammer a reasonable line thru the subtle curve. I then took an angle grinder and ground down the remainder of the crease to a mostly flat surface, then contoured it a little. Here is the rough contouring (Photo 4). It will need some finer sanding, a little bit of filler, then it should be reasonable. Last, I sanded the inner front fender panel to 400 grit, so it's ready for paint (although I need to touch up the primer first). I plan on doing a round of primer with the many panels that need it this weekend, as long as the weather holds out. I should be able to do a final 400-grit sanding on these panels and have them ready for paint. Slight change of subject, but at this point, I still plan on retiring soon, but probably January. Due to various reasons, I think I'll stay in my current residence for at least another year, which means come January, my full time job will become the MG. I don't see me being ready for paint in 2021, there is still too much to do, and I have very little time to work on it. If I can get 40 hours per week on it, come January, it should be ready for paint in spring 2022. Cheers, Chris
  21. Was able to do a little more this weekend. Got the front passenger fender finished with more body work, so now it is ready for more primer and should be pretty smooth after this round (Photo 1). Moved on to the passenger door and block sanded it at 320 grit. It seems to be quite straight, except for some minor areas at the outer edge, which needed a little filler. I also hand sanded the inside of the door to 400 grit, so it's pretty much ready for paint. I also test-fitted the upper door trim and it didn't fit that well, so had to expand the mounting holes a little in order to get the trim to fit (Photo 2). Seems pretty good now, should be perfect when the mounting bolts are torqued down. The next full day I get with decent weather, I'll be doing another round of primer. I will have the passenger front fender and door, front valance panel, to striker plate door jam caps, and the gauge cluster panel to do. Next, I'll be starting on the rear passenger fender, which needs a lot of work to get the lower contours correct where it meets the door. It also has some flaws in the wheel well, where the repro panel stampings were a little inaccurate and will require some hand work.
  22. Thanks for the kind words, Mike. Great to hear you are back, or close to back in action. Time to get back to the garage soon! Maybe get the walker, put some wire wheels on it, paint it BRG, put some wood handles on it, and make it proper. Cheers! -Chris
  23. According to the Plymouth Master Parts Book, 1928-34, 629 M is for 1932 Plymouth PB. I looked at my 1930 Plymouth 30U and it has 629 A; the parts manual says the same thing. I'm guessing it could work with any 1928-32 Plymouth 4 cyl, but the correct application is 1932 Plymouth PB.
  24. Wow, fantastic work. You're in the home stretch now.
  25. You are a restoration machine! Beautiful work.
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