Lahti35

Looking....

I've used a nearly identical process with an air impact gun on exhaust studs/nuts... I just turn the air down low until the gun just shocks the fastener and they seem to break loose fairly easily. The goal is to just shock at first, not back it out.... Think slow firing machine gun... Once they start to loosen I run the impact forward and reverse until I get it moving 360 degrees good and then back them out slowly.

100%... If you're electrical system is not in good shape you're better off with points. Pertronix will not cure bad grounds, faulty equipment, corroded wires.

Michigan. If it's the same Newberry as JJ Newberry they were a chain started around WWI. The one local to me burned down in the 60's and was never rebuilt. FW Woolworth's was right around the corner from Newberry's and lasted until the 80's when it was demolished to make way for newer businesses.

Success! My NOS spacer showed up today. The seller's measurements were off however, and the bolts I had purchased were too short! Third time's a charm so it was off to the store to get some 3 1/2" fasteners and put this turkey in the oven for the final time. Install went ok with no issues and there is still enough clearance between the fan and radiator despite the spacer being a tad bit longer. I'm glad to get the fan installed, it was really bugging me!

I knew a guy who drove a vintage VW bug year round in Michigan, he would take it and have it undercoated each season with a Fluid Film type coating and the bug was still looking great. I use it on my newer cars both having spent their life in Michigan, each over 12yo, and have yet to see any corrosion beyond the exhaust system which is uncoated for obvious reasons. If I were to pick up another Falcon and daily drive it all over again I'd coat it with Fluid Film and skip the copious amount of car wash visits, lol!

My grandmother worked at JJ Newberry in the 40's. After she had passed and my family moved to a new location in the late 1990's it turned out our new neighbor had worked there also about the same time. While digging through newspaper articles saved in a family scrapbook I found a newspaper picture from 1948 of the JJ Newberry staff in front of the building... There was my grandmother and our new neighbor in their teens. Grandma worked at the lunch counter for some time before heading off to be a nurse.

Up until the engine threw a rod 5 years ago I ran a '61 Falcon year round as daily transportation in Michigan. It would go through foot of unplowed snow just fine with the skinny tires. I just kept it hosed off at the carwash and never noticed any appreciable deterioration in the years I ran it. Heater was great, lots of hot! It was in decent shape to begin with but no queen that's for sure. I still miss it, most reliable car I had until the rod went on the little 144 six.

I got the water pump back in place and this time I used Permatex #2 on the small bypass hose between the pump and block as well as on the heater connection and the block gaskets and the bolts where they thread into the block. I hope all the boogiemen have been contained! It was a busy week but I did get a chance to monkey with the fan spacer... The original was quite long, almost 3" but since the clutch fan has a shaft sticking out the back the old spacer was too long... I had just bolted the clutch fan directly to the water pump for break in but it needed to get back closer to the radiator for real world driving. The new fan was one of the compromises I made to quiet down noise while "daily" driving but since we haven't done a lick of that yet I'm wondering if it's really even worth it.🤪 I needed a spacer just over 2" so I thought I'd just cut down the old one... The problem was that when I got it finished the walls were so thin around the nub on the front that centers the fan I was not comfortable with using it. In hindsight I should not have cut the nub diameter down to fit the supplied spacer, there was no need for it as I could have just turned it exactly to the size required and skipped the spacer altogether. Sometimes you can't see the forest through the trees! Plan B was to run next door to my neighbors house who is also is a car gun and who specializes in Ford stuff. Amongst his treasures I found a spacer that would work and proceeded to cut that one down and skip the spacer... This one fit the the fan great and I was headed towards success but when I tried to put it together I realized I had bought 2.5" bolts the day before instead of 2.75" bolts and had cut the spacer for use with the shorter bolts making the spacer now much too short. Jeepers! Anyway I did some looking around online and rather than go another round cutting down spacers I was able to find a NOS one from the 80's that was made to fit a big block FE. It's just over the length required but within acceptable tolerance so I licked my wounds and snagged it. Mama said there would be days like this!

Yes it is! So is the Permatex #2 that I used this time too I hope!

We can't see the shift knob but with that gas pedal i'll bet it says Hurst!

That's between an individual, the good lord, and the IRS. I just thought it was an interesting update in the continuing adventure that does touch our hobby.

Yabba Dabba Do!

I would guess under the dash on the passenger side or somewhere near!😁

It appears that a new development is in the works.. I saw this over on the MTFCA: $600 No more...

That paint may come back to look nicer with some careful cleaning and polishing. There are some good online tutorials about reviving old paint or preserving what you have. Being that paint jobs now cost an arm, leg, and a pelvis I try to save paint if I can. Nice car, looks like it hasn't been messed with much. It can be a devil to sort out work from others who have come before! Enjoy the journey, you'll have frustrating days here and there but press on after a break and you'll be there!

I got my new parts in, well sort of anyway! The cover plate was supposed to come with a gasket... Nope, somebody screwed up and I didn't get one. Not the end of the world, I cut a new one. It was also supposed to come with the correct bolts with serrations under the head to act as locking tabs but again, no dice. Loctite it is! Armed with my parts, and a bit of the disappointment that has come to hang over this project more than it should, I started out to the garage to put this thing together... I pried the old crooked cover off and found the sealant had done a good job, good to know. I don't think it would have leaked but the whole thing looked like chicken doodie... We're not doing government work here. I also pulled out the small bypass tube at the top of the housing to check the fit as I had bought a new one, taking no chances! While it was in there good and I had to use vice grips to get it out there was no sign of any sealant other than some cured silicone around the seam before removal. I ended up pressing the new one in after lightly coating the mating surfaces with Permatex #2. The new cover had the bolt holes perfectly centered and along with my new gasket and some more Permatex #2 it went on without a hitch. A short trip to the paint booth brough the day to a close, when dry i'll install it again and roll the dice.

Looks like they chopped the can off the front of the cleaner and used the baffle material from it to cover the hole. Magnifique!

I think the way to go is to partially put the car you want to sell in the background, always generates decent interest!

I dug around in the rear brakes and found them to be in good condition... I had purchased new hub seals 2 years ago and more recently a set of brake shoes but found when I got to the shoes the ones on the truck have more meat on them than the new replacement ones. I'll pack the new shoes away for later! No scoring on the drums but unfortunately the seals I bought were the wrong ones, too small! The old ones are in decent shape so for the time being I just cleaned them and left them in place. I was able to locate correct seals this week. Someone has been in these brakes in the not too distant past, no signs of leaks I can see. I did find the telltale signs of hub removal without the correct socket, chisel marks on the nut. The nut locking tabs were not bent all that well though, the only real sloppy work I found. When I put it all back together temporarily to be able to move it around I put in a new locking washer as I had extras. I'm going to pull the hubs again down the road to clean the adjusting mechanism when I get some down time. I'll put in the new seals then also. The self adjuster doesn't seem to be working on the passenger side...

You are correct, the holes do go through the casting. I was surprised about the random bold tightness, I guess I should have checked them! I think they just stamped the cover off center, the holes in the casting are pretty centered so a correctly stamped cover should straighten things up. The new parts should be here tomorrow so we'll see how it goes together! Unfortunately I used up my paint when doing the engine so I had to get a new can which has been delayed by Fedex until next week, maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be early...

The NOS points came in so I installed them in the distributor and set the gap. I also noticed the distributor wire connector that plugs into the coil bullet connector was backing out so I crimped it a bit for a much firmer connection. It's ready to roll... After work earlier in the week I pulled the the water pump off the front of the engine. I found that the bolts holding the back cover on were all varying in tightness with one barely tight at all, there was barely any gasket stuck to the cover around that bolt hole... So I thought I'd make up a new gasket and use some Permatex #2 for insurance when I discovered the holes in the cover are off center enough to shift it over a ways exposing 1/2 of the gasket on one side. Talk about bad manufacturing... So long story short I ordered a new back cover plate, an accurate reproduction instead of this generic stuff. I thought about just ordering a new pump but would it be any better? I looked around for an authentic original to rebuild but they are priced like gold. The pump that was on it when got it was a newer made unit, the original Ford unit being long gone. The plan is to install the new rear cover which hopefully has on center mounting holes. I also ordered a new bypass tube which I may replace and seal with Permatex #2. I'll definitely use some #2 on the bypass hose during installation, can't be to careful lol!

... And dry their underwear with the overhead vents, lol!

As would I... I can't help but wonder whenever I see a water pump on a T if the radiator is not pulling it's weight!