Akstraw

and here I thought I was the only one who did that...

Looks like the lever might adjust the gap. I have no knowledge; just speculating having looked at the diagram. Begs the question, though:. Why would you want to adjust the gap?

It seems in the last few years there has been a backlash against white walls. Many poo-poo them as non-authentic extravagance, or not representative of the mainstream. My observation is that, while probably the majority of cars were sold without them, manufacturers more often than not advertised their cars showing white walls. In AACA, my understanding is that we pursue having cars presented as delivered by the dealer. Thus, if they were available as a dealer option, then they are okay. If they are shown in period advertising, then they should be acceptable. My personal opinion, though, is put the tires on the car that YOU like, and the heck with what anyone else thinks. I think they look great on my 1930 Franklin, but not on my 1922 Marmon; though in period ads, the Franklin shows black walls and the Marmon white walls. Go figure.

In some strange way, it works. Agree that the tailgate/backend needs something to blend it in better.

Count me as another Optima fan.

Skip Haney in Florida has put modern ' guts' in two original coils for me for my 1922 Marmon. I might suggest you contact him and see if he can help you. i believe his site is www.fordcollector.com.

I suggest that you try Jerry Chase at JoVal Machine Company in Connecticut (formerly called Lab Threads and Gear Works). He is a brass car guy, and specializes in making things like this.

They seem legit, though for a $179K purchase, I might spring for the plane ticket to Miami to check them and the car out in person. Many Porsche dealers offer a pre-purchase inspection service, which includes checking the Porsche database on the car (all for a fee, of course). I have purchased a Porsche sight-unseen from an independent dealer, but I paid the local Porsche dealer to do a thorough pre-purchase inspection on the car first. Checking the dealership out with the Better Business Bureau is very easy to do as well.

I am interested in acquiring a car like this. For that reason, I will withhold comment on value. If/when you or the heirs get beyond valuation and are serious about selling, please let me know. Andrew

Don't know for certain that they would have them, but the first place I would look would be Kanter Auto Products.

The answer is simple. You need a larger garage.

Of course I believe it. I accept all advertising product claims without question!

I was thinking the same thing as jerry k. Actual simulation data would eliminate speculation. My thought was piece of chalk, a tape measure, and the mall parking lot, but on-site experiment with cones or whatever would be even better.

I had a similar problem once, not on a Cord, though. I finally put on one of those conventional gear clamps, as well as permatex, tightened it up and drove the car. I re-tightened it when the engine was hot, and ran the car again several times over a period of a week or so. Seepage was gone. I then switched back to the original style clamp when cold. It has not seeped since. I think the old two-wire clamp did not apply as much force all the way around the circumference as do the modern clamps. No way to prove it, though, just my suspicion. I also think tightening hot helped the rubber conform to the metal outlets. One downside is that if you tighten the heck out of the ss gear clamp, it will emboss pattern marks onto the hose.

Thank you all for your replies. I do not know why this posted twice, an hour apart. I did not mean to duplicate. Andrew