Akstraw

Since you read it all the way from the beginning, I’ll show the finished interior. I completed the final part, the door panels, this week. Still have to do the final cleanup; you can see some random fuzz here and there. Not perfect, but not too bad for my first try at trim work (or second, since I did most parts of it twice, or more). I definitely learned a lot doing this project, and enjoyed it. I would do another.

I took my 1932 DE project car for a drive for the first time today. A big day after 22 months of work. It operates well, though there is a metal-on-metal squeaking from the brushes on the commutator. A little WD40 on the commutator solves the problem briefly, so I know that is the origin; not the bearings or brake drum. My questions for other electric owners are: Is this normal? Should I lube the commutator? With what? Will it go away with use (I think car had been sitting unused for quite a few years)?

I call them names from time to time, but none I could repeat here.

I put it out in the sun for an hour, the did front center, rear center, expanded front, expanded rear, then side and side. Then I worked each corner individually. (Had to go back into the shade at this point; was getting a sunburn). Used a little bit of the heat gun ( on setting 2 of 10) on the corners. BTW, used tacks, rather than staple, and only drove them half way in. Working around the corners, I stretched down the center of the corner, and then worked inward from the side and back, trying to stuff as much overlength as I could outward from the corner from tack to tack, to eliminate the overlap (if you can understand that). Once it was halftacked all around, i put it back into the sun for an hour, then let it sit overnight. Next day, adjusted a few tacks, then drove home the tacks, trimmed off the excess, and installed the hidem. Biggest lesson learned: Do this job in July, not February.

It turned out much better on the second try. I got the corners looking the way I wanted them.

Back up to a tree at the top of a hill; chain the truck to the tree, and then drive the tow vehicle and trailer down the hill. Doesn't need to be a big hill, just enough grade so the truck doesn't roll back into the tree when it comes down the slope off the trailer.

You might try contacting the Classic Car Club of America (CCCA). The Horch is on their "Full Classic" list, and perhaps they could query the member database and tell you how many their members have.

I am not buying the “60 mph” claim on a 1912 electric. 20-25 mph would be more like it. I am currently completing the restoration of a 1918/32 Detroit Electric. Will be showing it at Hilton Head this November.

When selecting the type of registration plate and insurance to obtain, I think it is important to consider how you will be using the car. Pennsylvania law states: "It is unlawful for any person to operate a motorcycle or vehicle with antique, classic, vintage, collectible or historic military vehicle registration plates for general daily transportation. Permitted use shall be limited to participation in club activities, exhibits, tours, parades, occasional transportation and similar uses. Occasional transportation shall mean no more than one day per week." You will find that many of the "collector car" insurance policies have similar restrictive wording. If your intended use of the car fits within the restrictions, then you can save some money with 'antique' plates and 'Collector' insurance. You might also consider what you want to protect with the policy. Of course, the state requires you to have liability and perhaps other, such as medical cost, insurance. As purely a used car, an insurance company will place very little value on the vehicle itself, so a 'normal' policy may be all you need if you just want to meet the state requirements. Essentially, this would leave you "self-insured" for your damage or loss to your own car. If this is the case, see a local agent as others have suggested. Yes, you may have to get a 'normal' plate for your 'used car', and be subject to safety inspection, but hey, if it is a daily driver, do you really want to be in a car that does not meet minimum safety requirements? (It has been a long time since I lived in PA, but the law used to require that lighting on used cars only had to meet the standards to which it was manufactured. All other current safety inspection standards applied. Your local inspection station can fill you in on this.) If you want to protect your expenditure on car, then you will need a specialty policy from one of the aforementioned 'collector car' insurers. I don't know any of them that don't have use restrictions, and just about all require garaging. For a relatively low-value car, parked outdoors, you might just accept the risk of property loss, and just go with the state minimums. I agree with the suggestion of going on your parents' or your partner's policy as a possibility. Good luck! Andrew

Jim, Are you in the Pacific Northwest with your rig, or just on vacation? I am considering a car in Oregon that I would need transported to North Carolina. Andrew

Seems like most everyone had one of the big three in the sixties, with an occasional Jeepster or Studebaker. Exceptions were one neighbor who had a Fiat (a 600 I think) and the Avon lady who drove a beat up Volvo 544. Somebody down the road had a Morris Minor. My brothers and I in our early teens thought those cars to be very unusual.

Ouch! Hate to hear of this one.

If you know the dimensions, Olson’s will make the for you.

Here is an update on this project. I am in the final stage of this restoration; learning how to do the upholstery as I go. I have had to do most pieces two or three times, but it is coming together nicely.

I had a heck of a time finding suitable upholstery fabric for my current project. One popular supplier told me they hadn’t been able to get wool fabrics from the UK for over a year.