Akstraw

I did get a slight bit of the percolating sound upon shutdown, but no boil over. I have one of those big 36" floor fans in my shop. I suppose parking it in front of that upon shutdown couldn't hurt.

Ran for about a mile today at full advance, and after tightening fan belt. Temp range on radiator with IR gun was from 180 to 130 top to bottom. No boiling. Temp on cylinder wall was 220. This is encouraging. I plan to try a seven-mile drive next weekend and see how it does. Thanks for your responses all. Still may try the water pump, too.

How true!

Thanks, guys. Will do the radiator inspection as Bud suggested, and go to work on the necessary mods to adapt the T aftermarket pump

I have been offered $300 a day plus meals on set for my car for background work. Only I will drive the car. I won't get rich doing it, but will make for a good essay on "what I did on summer vacation". Getting ready for a full night of nighttime shooting later this week, and a day of street scenes next week. My first experience with movie production. .

I have also seen procedures where a panel is cut out of the tank; sufficient in size to allow the interior surface to be cleaned and scraped by hand. When all is clean, then the panel is welded back in place. I was ready to do this on one of my projects, but then was able to scope the inside walls of the tank, and learned that after sitting for 50-plus years, it was remarkably clean inside, and needed no attention.

There is a radiator shop in Denver NC that will soak and strip a gas tank. Not sure how their process would work on red Côte, but might be worth asking. They did a tank for me in 2014, and I think it was around $100, including some type of red sealer applied after the process.

I have a 1914 Maxwell with 4 cylinder flathead that is designed with "thermo-syphon" cooling. There is no water pump, and the cooling system is non-pressurized. The radiator and block both seem very clean and unobstructed. When I run the car for more than a mile or two, I get a little bit of boil-over, and I hear a mild thumping sound like water boiling (percolating?) in the cooling system. I had read somewhere once that both of these are normal; that the boil-over is actually the result of the coolant expanding, and the thumping sound is an indication that the system is working correctly. Is that correct, or is the thumping sound of boiling liquid an indication that the engine is running too hot? Nowadays, it is easy to measure temperature with one of those standoff IR guns. What do you think is the 'normal' operating temperature for such an engine on a hot day? How hot is too hot? I have purchased one of those aftermarket add-on water pumps that was made for a Model T. It would be easy to adapt it to the Maxwell. Is this worthwhile to do? Have any T owners had positive results with this? BTW, I am using a 50/50 mix of Xerex IAT coolant and distilled water. Andrew

Years ago, I took a course in negotiating (the one that used to be very heavily advertised in the airline magazines). One of the things they taught was to (a) to avoid being the first to name a price, and (b) if you have to be the first one to name a price, name a figure that is borderline ridiculous in your favor. You can always adjust. I see this in auctions. The auctioneer always starts with some very, very high number, just to see if there is somebody with deep pockets who is absolutely in love with the item. From that perspective, it makes sense to do the same on CL. Another thing they taught was to avoid becoming emotionally involved. If the seller wants 5000, and you offer 4000, and he doesn't take it, walk away. If he comes back next week at 4000, then great for you. Buy it. If you no longer want it, don't buy it. Period. You can get into a lot of ego and saving face issues, but in the end, it's just a business deal, and it's your money. --BTW, love the Buick--

My gut feeling is around $18k market value. It is a beautiful car.

Congrats Bob. A stunning motorcar!

You might try Trulyvintage, who advertises on the Commercial part of this forum.

Seems like it would take quite a large volume of paint to dip. Okay for a factory, but if you are only doing 5 or 6 wheels?

I agree with you. Rust=oxidation. Block the oxygen, and you will prevent the rust.

Just answered the questions you asked, directly and factually.