Akstraw

Beautiful time capsule. I love it! Thanks for sharing.

Advertising is cheap; in many cases, free. Never hurts to get the word out. It only takes one buyer who always wanted one just like yours to seal the deal. You can always say no to any offers below your minimum. So why not list? As a teenager, I used to hang out at the local auto repair shop in a small farming village. The owner/ chief mechanic/sage used to say: "There's an a**hole for every seat!" You just have to find him.

Say what?

I agree with Bill as well. At one time in my life, I had stored two collector cars in a carport with covers on them. In addition to beating up the paint, even the "breathable" covers entrap moisture. I don't think that rain is an issue as much as sun, though it may depend where you live. Better to skip the cover, and put a towel or sheet over the dash and seats or anything on the inside you want to protect from UV exposure. Get some of those tire covers that the RV'ers use if you need to protect tires from sunlight as well.

I have purchased six cars out-of-state sight unseen, and have not been burned. I went into those deals, though, knowing that I am always going to find something unexpected. My comfort level has come from real-time phone calls with the seller; understanding what they know about the car, why they are selling, their professional reputation (if a dealer), etc. Most people will tell you more than you ask once you get them talking. Lots of pictures can mitigate some of the risk, so can third-party inspections. Keep in mind that old cars have issues. Period. Wood rot on pre-war cars and body rust on post war cars are among the major hidden risks with antiques, imho, and can be difficult to spot. Non-running cars present more risk than running cars, so make your offer accordingly. If there is a club for the particular car you have in mind, find their forum and ask current owners specifically what to look for. (I have had bigger surprises on cars I have seen personally, but know little about, vs. cars I have bought unseen but know fairly well.) For Porsche in particular, I have found that the local franchised dealer will do a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) which is costly, but worth the money. They use the same standards that they use to do certified-pre-owned. Other brands may do this as well for fairly late-model cars. For some makes, such as Volvo, VW, and BMW, you can seek out the local independent repair guy that specializes in that make and pay for a PPI. I would definitely value his opinion over an independent 'licensed' inspector. I love Ed's quote above: "The best money you ever spend buying a car is the money spent on walking away." Probably second only to "A deal too good to be true is likely neither good nor true." Good luck!

Is that ever true! The stories I can tell...

I paid $6500 for mine several years ago. It had not been run in ten or so years, and has a non-original carburetor and intake manifold. I thought that was a good price at the time. Yours seems to be in somewhat better shape, and being an all-original car is a plus. My guess is about $7500 as is; perhaps $8500 to $9500 if you can demonstrate that the engine is not frozen and the valves not stuck. Probably in the $12-15,000 range if you get it running. Just one man's opinion.

I own a 1914 Maxwell, a roadster or two-seat version of yours. Yours looks like a 25-4, a touring car, and rather complete. I find mine to be a peppy car, and fun to drive. I would be interested in seeing photos of the engine compartment. There is not much in print, including advertising, about these cars, as it was a transition year for Maxwell from a corporate ownership perspective. Let me know what more you might like to know about it, and I will be glad to assist.

Olson's Gaskets just custom-made quite a few for me for my '22 Marmon. I just needed to provide the shaft diameter, housing diameter, and thickness. Reasonably priced in my opinion, and fast turn-around.

Postmarked on Christmas Day, no less.

Lots of prior discussion threads on ww vs. bw. Bottom line is:. Get what YOU like.

I have used an everyday upholstery cleaner called TuffStuff with good results. Also RaggTopp products for convertible top care. Would recommend both.

WTB: a very good shifter and brake lever and base assembly and a right front hub (LH threads) for a 1922 34B restoration project. I think the hub is for a Hayes wheel, maybe Houk. Please contact me if you have either of these parts available. The ones I have are rough, though usable, so I am looking for better options. Thanks. Andrew

Maybe a resurgence of drive-in movies and drive-in restaurants, too!

I was thinking today that with the low gas prices and the void of car shows, perhaps "cruising", a la the Happy Days movie, will make a comeback. Show off your ride while maintaining safe distance by driving up and down Main Street all Saturday evening.