Akstraw

My deal with my wife is I can have all the cars I want, as long as: (a) I can afford them, (b) I can store them inside, (c) they run and drive, and (d) they are titled and insured. I negotiated one active project car as well (which is currently stretched to two ...but just for a while ...promise). No room for parts cars in the 'contract', or in the garage, for that matter. Too bad.

PM sent.

I suppose you could ask the owner to sign a waiver to relieve you of any liability in advance. I am not a lawyer, but would certainly consult one in this case.

I suggest you search for "RV Transport". There are a number of haulers out there that will carry trailers.

I used to watch some of the shows on Speed/Velocity/MotorTrend with some disdain as they crashed to meet show deadlines, thinking it was manufactured drama. Then I found myself in the same situation several times (pre-COVID); bolting 3 of 4 fenders on the night before a show while the wife (who never comes to the shop) brought sandwiches to the shop for my volunteer helpers and me; driving a car onto the show field with no service brakes because I ran out of time to bleed them on a fresh resto; pulling a midnight-er learning about magnetos from a Dyke’s manual in order to get a brass car on a

To answer your question: What do I use? The two items on the table top are approaching 50 years old, and still working well. The three against the wall are flea market finds; all work well and I paid $20 or less each. The only thing wrong with any of them is that the insulation on the leads is deteriorating. I think the old tachs work on impulses, and work equally well with 6 or 12 volt, but read out differently for 4, 6, or 8 cyl. I suspect some of the newer ones would be insensitive to voltage as well, but if lighted, then have a 12 bulb within.

I carry a little bit of gasoline in a 16oz plastic Pepsi bottle, along with a plastic syringe (turkey baster). I fill the bottle about 1/3 full, and the squeeze about half of the remaining air out of it. That allows room for lots of expansion with temperature change. I have found that it really doesn’t need priming after the first run on hot days.

I don’t know the answer, but I have had problems with aluminum alloys. Recently thought I would have a part ceramic coated, and the ceramic ended up with pinholes in it. I wonder if anodizing is the answer.

$2500 a piece sounds about right. The Buick is possibly worth a few hundred dollars more. IMHO.

Perhaps your best course would be to ask your plater directly. I think they will give you straight answers for several reasons: 1). The good ones stand behind their work and won’t give you a recommendation that will fail down the road, and 2). Any question you may have, they have likely been asked and answered before. I have had success with both R&D Finishing in Elizabethton, TN, and with Librandi’s in Harrisburg, PA.

I am surprised that nobody has said”Gone in 60 Seconds”. Maybe too late model for this group.

George Bachleda (I may have spelled it wrong) who was “Olcar Bearing” passed away a year or so ago. He was a true master who could find absolutely any bearing you might need. I have since found the folks at South Shore Bearing in Massachusetts to be very helpful with obscure match-ups.

Later model cars like the Reatta and Allante have their own active discussion boards outside AACA. I might guess these are quiet on AACA because those other boards became well established as the go-to places for those Marques prior to the AACA recognizing them as “antiques”.

Beautiful car. Looks pretty solid and complete to me. I am in the final stage of restoring my ‘first’ electric, and have found it much simpler than a gasoline restoration. It takes some study to understand it, but definitely doable. While your local mechanic wouldn’t touch it, some restoration shops take on electrics ( e.g. Restorer32 on this forum). There are some very knowledgeable electric owners/enthusiasts around the country who might give you some advice. I would take look at it myself, if in my region. Where are you located?

The gauge faces on my 2.5 in. dia. Roller Smith Ammeter and Voltmeter on the 1932 Detroit Electric were too yellowed to photocopy without getting a gray background, so I had a graphic artist redraw them for me. These are paper faces which, on the original, are glued to brass backing plates in the gauge. I did not even bother to remove the originals, I simply flipped the brass plate around and glued my new cardstock faces to the opposite side. It turned out pretty well. I have had a number of spare faces printed up. PM me if you are interested in a set.