Akstraw

Looks to me like a 1936 Dodge.

Agree with that. Here is an actual conversation with a 70-ish year old “car guy” from when I took my ‘14 Maxwell to a local cruise-in: CG: Is that a Model T? me: It is a 1914 Maxwell. CG: Maxwell? What’s that? me: It was made by Maxwell Motors 1904 to 1924. CG: I never heard of that kind of Model T. Of course, when I visit my father-in-law (97 yrs old), the term is “T-Model”; not “Model T.”

I suggest you contact The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO. I think that he could recommend a carburetor for you, and probably sell you one as well. You can also contact “CarbKing” on this forum.

Ford Mustang?

Oak also has a high acid content compared to ash, which over the long term can cause your metal fasteners to deteriorate.

a vintage compact?

Today they call it “dual zone climate control.” (Sorry, I couldn’t resist.)

I have to say that I just had a Priority Mail shipment from Bolt Depot delivered to my home at 7 p.m. on Sunday evening by the USPS. I was impressed!

I know this is an old post, but I thought of it this week when I read a brief description in a book of a car called the Lexington. I saw photos of Lexingtons that had this type of fender and running board design, which I had previously thought was peculiar only to Marmon. The rub, however, is that I saw this design only on Lexington cars from 1920 and later, which does not mesh with the 1918 date on these photos.

If you plan to keep the car, i would suggest painting it a color that you like. For a restored car, I think that selecting a factory-correct color would be a smart move. I had the same dilemma on my 1956 Cadillac. I found an original color chart on eBay, my wife and I picked a color that we love, and its period-correct to boot.

I think that the flex should happen in the wood members themselves, not in the joints.

Hugh, It was interesting to see your photos and comments. I agree with your thoughts and observations. I have actually rehearsed/practiced the sequence of installing and gluing wooden frame pieces within the sheet metal shell in order to make sure my process would work, before going ‘live’ with epoxy adhesive. Andrew

Joe, Thank you very much for your reply. The height was my estimate. I will let the radiator builder know what size you have, and see what he thinks would be the minimum. Perhaps 6.0” will work. I am going to see him sometime in January, weather permitting, so I will get back to you. Andrew

Thanks for your reply, Joe. This would be for my 1914 25-4. I think the very minimum dimensions, including allowance for the seams, would be 6.5 in. tall and 23 in. wide. Andrew

Thanks. I am referring to the embossed plate that becomes an integral part of the radiator as shown near the top of this photo.