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About leomara

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  • Birthday 10/13/1949

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  1. I'm big on rattle cans for components other than bodies because they are convenient and do not require spray paint booths, special equipment or hazmat suits. Having said that, they do have limitations particularly their weakness to gasoline and solvents. Enter engine paints which are said to be resistant to gasoline and they don't even require a primer. Does anyone have any experiences to share about using engine paints on chassis parts? Can they be sprayed over other other old paint?
  2. I posted something under General Discussion about L & L Antique & Custom Auto Trim of Pierce MO. who were in business earlier this year as a source for running board trim on pre-1930 Chrysler cars. Unfortunately it appears to be a dead end, the phone number is no longer valid and I cannot identify the principals or where to reach them. Can anyone provide a good photo of the cover on a 1928 Chrysler Model 72 running board and it's trim? Or even better does anyone have another source for these items?
  3. So there is no current information on L & L Antique & Custom Auto Trim or their principals.
  4. I found a company that makes the running board trim for 1928 Chrysler cars. However, a day late and a dollar short. Apparently this place closed it's doors. Anyone know what happened or if anyone else is picking up their business?
  5. These photos are of the front and rear backing plates on my model 72. The previous owner assembled the brake components to the front plates but not to the rear and I'm trying to determine if the front is complete so I can use it as a visual for the rear. I've labeled some places on the rear backing plate to ask questions about. Item A is where the wheel cylinder mounts with 2 hex bolts. Item B is one of the two places where the external brake band mounts, kind of a square lug that has a hex bolt with a cotter pin to lock it in place. Item C is a clip for lack of a better term that also ho
  6. Hi capngrog, yes in some ways it does help but not for the brakes because apparently they opted to use internal expanding shoes on the Imperial while my model 72 has the old external contracting type.
  7. Looking for repair information for 1928 Chrysler other than the owners manual. I'm told no shop manual was published by Chrysler for that year. Have not found any of these multi-vehicle repair books that go back that far.
  8. Try Jay Astheimer in PA. 610-863-6955 He has one of the largest inventories on pre-1930 Chryslers in the country.....
  9. Here is some supporting documentation regarding "Standard" brand points and 1928, 1929 Chryslers with dual point sets.
  10. I had a previous post regarding this topic and I've read almost all the other posts on this topic. Some questions come to mind. My wheels are painted and appear to be sound, no loose spokes or visible damage. I don't want to disassemble the wheels if it is not necessary. Starting with stripping the spokes, paint stripper is recommended but I did see one video where a guy used a heat gun to soften up the paint which was then just scrapped off. Soda blasting also has been suggested as a way to clean the wooden spokes without doing them harm. After the spokes have been cleaned I want to hav
  11. There are two different point sets for the Chrysler (Delco Remy) dual point distributor from the "Standard" manufacturer. DR 1821 and DR 1823. Please explain why the two different point sets are required and also what are equivalent ignition parts (points/condenser/rotor) from other manufacturers?
  12. So the 6 volt battery of 1928 was nothing like the group one 6 volt battery of today? I question that because even the reproduction Ford batteries made for the Model A were not much different in size than todays group 1. Then again I have no idea what type of battery Chrysler was using except that the owners manual says it was a Willard.....
  13. Here are the photos, aside from missing the bottom, can anyone tell me why there is a long threaded rod as part of the frame and what the L shaped piece on the left is for? The L shaped piece has a hole in the bottom flange. Some things are never obvious........
  14. I knew this lunacy was not that far off. Any idea what the impact will be to collector vehicles?
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