Littlestown Mike

Are you looking to buy, or looking for information, or parts? There is very knowledgeable Falcon guy in North Wales. Many of us know oem parts, Jerry knows what oem parts you need when you start making changes--like putting a C4 in place of the original Ford-O-Matic 2 speed. Jerry Kratz KPAuto@aol.com

I wish ALL vendors would price their stuff. No prices is a none starter for me.

Great to see the comments and hear that the crowds were present--always worried that the internet will destroy the in-person events. I made it up for a few hours yesterday ( Thursday)--attendance was pretty good from what I saw. Lines at the "little blue houses " were often long. Don't forget to tip the attendants. Too many "wheeled vehicles" driven by people with little regard for those who are walking. Too many young kids on bicycles. All that is intimidating to older walkers. I completely understand they "graying" of the hobby and the HC vehicles are a good thing. I just wish that all drivers were aware of the people walking. I also miss the "Vendor --Listing by Specialty" in the program. I understand that is available in the APP, so maybe that is better. Against my normal practice, I will be returning on Saturday. I expect it to be VERY crowded and that is why I usually try to be done before Saturday, but this year reality did not permit me to get up there on Wednesday and Friday. Looking forward to the Ford Nationals in June. It is a smaller show than Spring and Fall, but almost every vendor is selling FoMoCo stuff.

SUCCESS!!!! It was simpler than any of us thought. I missed installed the oil plug on the front of the eng9ine that sort of hides behind the cam gear. In my defense, I did not remove that plug. The machine shop would have when they cleaned it. That plug is not called out in the FoMoCo assembly instructions. a 1/2" hole will reduce oil pressure. After installing the plug and then spinning the distributor at only about 50 rpm, the oil pressure gauge pegged at 40+ psi AND there is flow out the hole in the top surface of the block. All is well. Thank you for all who offered ideas. Maybe this thread will help out someone else in the future.

You do understand the difference between a job and a HOBBY, or do you? I asked for technical help to understand a problem and help find a solution. YOU decided that you were my supervisor and criticized the time I was taking, your choice to act that way, but I haven't seen a paycheck from you yet---still waiting. |I learned long ago that is it better to be criticized for taking too long rather than be criticized for the final quality of the work. Yes, it is taking it is taking longer that the "book" time--but it is a hobby and the time is mine, so I will continue to do as I please. One of the differences between repair and original assembly is that at original assembly few measurements were required--the Engineers has figured out the allowable tolerances and the parts given the assemblers were to be installed. That was one of the first innovations that Ford made--way back in the Model T days. Ford invested in Joh blocks so that he has assurance that parts were made to the proper sizes and tolerances. He removed the "fitting" of parts during assembly so that assembly could be done by lower-skilled people. You critical attitude did not affect me--I will do as I choose, but I wonder if your approach might frighten off younger people who would see "the Hobby" as populated by old critical people. The HOBBY --all HOBBIES--are things we do for FUN. I see people investing vast resources of time and $$ into projects that will never pay off --at least financially. The choose to do that simply because they want to do it and they take pride in their work. More power to them.

You do understand the difference between a job and a HOBBY, or do you? I asked for technical help to understand a problem and help find a solution. YOU decided that you were my supervisor and criticized the time I was taking, your choice to act that way, but I haven't seen a paycheck from you yet---still waiting. |I learned long ago that is it better to be criticized for taking too long rather than be criticized for the final quality of the work. Yes, it is taking it is taking longer that the "book" time--but it is a hobby and the time is mine, so I will continue to do as I please. One of the differences between repair and original assembly is that at original assembly few measurements were required--the Engineers has figured out the allowable tolerances and the parts given the assemblers were to be installed. That was one of the first innovations that Ford made--way back in the Model T days. Ford invested in Joh blocks so that he has assurance that parts were made to the proper sizes and tolerances. He removed the "fitting" of parts during assembly so that assembly could be done by lower-skilled people. You critical attitude did not affect me--I will do as I choose, but I wonder if your approach might frighten off younger people who would see "the Hobby" as populated by old critical people. The HOBBY --all HOBBIES--are things we do for FUN. I see people investing vast resources of time and $$ into projects that will never pay off --at least financially. The choose to do that simply because they want to do it and they take pride in their work. More power to them.

Thank you--exactly my thoughts. I cannot spin the engine using the starter until i remove it from the engine stand--no room for a flywheel or Torque Converter. Yes, of course the lifters are installed--I would get zero oil pressure with no lifters installed--that galley must get pressurized. Engine is going to sit for a couple of days. I actually got called in for work--I still work part time, and I have a day or two of labwork--great for this old guy. There are several lab tests required on soil before it can be used as Fill, and that is what I do--and I do it better than anyone else. I have probably trained hundreds of soil technicians over the last half- Century. I really do love this stuff. Oh, and I get PAID for doing it!!

I removed the distributor gear and installed the hex shaft and the distributor and spun it with the cordless drill. Still no oil flow . The drill only spins a max of 1400 rpm--maybe that is too slow. So I filled the drilled oil passage with oil and spun the distributor again....and i saw a little oil flow --enough to raise the oil up out of that drilled passage and spill it down the side of the block. I still think I should pull the cam and visually check the cam mearing hole alignment, but I am relieved to see SOME flow.

The differential explanation is very clear.

I think this is the answer. The distributor needs to be installed because it sockets into the main oil galley. With no distributor in place, the oil is free to flow out of that opening and return to the sump. I saw lots of oil flowing around the oil pump drive shaft as I spun that hex shaft with the drill, but the thought never really connected. Ford would not have "wasted" machining time on that lower part of the distributor support if is was not required--no one would. I didn't report that observation in my original post because I did not think it was significant---obviously it is. I will remove the gear from an extra distributor and use a socket on the distributor cam to spin the distributors AND the hex drive shaft, and THAT should produce oil flow to the top of the block--and then, through the special necked-down bolt , all the way to the rocker shaft. Thanks to all--I will post back after I prove ( or disprove) this as the answer.

Well, thank you all!!! I am much relieved. I had forgotten that the cam needs to be turning. I will give this a shot later today or tomorrow and post back to this thread. I can't use the starter as the engine is still on the stand so I can't bolt on the flex plate and torque converter. I can turn the engine over via a wrench on the crank pulley. I think that illustration is for the large 240/ 300 six because it shows oiling the rockers thru the hollow push rods. The Falcon Six has solid pushrods.

I am putting my 200 Six back together. I had the machine work done by a local shop--very high reputation. All the work has looked great. The cylinders required a .040" overbore. I also had the shop install new cam bearings. I did not carefully inspect them and that is on me. The rear cam bearing in these engines has 2 holes--one supplied with pressurized oil from the main galley, the other hole carries oil up through a drilled passage to the top of the block. From there, the oil runs up alongside the rear head bolt and to the rear rocker shaft support where it lubricates the shaft and rockers. The oil pump is driven by a hex shaft from the bottom of the distributor--the distributor being turned by the camshaft. I used a cordless drill to spin the hex shaft and run the oil pump to pre-lube the engine. I see about 20 psi on a mechanical gauge--the drill doesn't turn very fast, so I think the 20 psi is pretty good. The problem is that I see no oil going up tp the top surface of the block and eventually to the rocker shaft. My "guess" is that the rear cam bearing is slightly mis-aligned so the hole to oil the rocker shaft is not getting any oil. Looks as if I will be re-disassembling the engine--at least part way--- I will have to remove the cam to inspect that rear cam bearing. I can image a couple of ways this could go-- 1) I could take the engine back to the machine shop and let him deal with it--but that is a HUGE inconvenience for me--I "can" do that, but would prefer another solution. 2) I could remove the rear cam bearing and re-install. Are cam bearings destroyed by the removal process? Can they be reused? or should I just buy another set of cam bearings for the one I will need? 3) Since there is a drilled passage that carries the oil to the top of the block, could I use a long drill bit and go back down that passage and drill a hole in the cam bearing as it sits? Of course, I would have to clean out all the cuttings, but it is a SIMPLE solution. Cam bearings do not see a lot of force--like a rod bearing, or even a main bearing--. Drilling the cam bearing "seems" to me like a possible solution, but I have no experience to draw upon, so I ask for your help. What do you think?

Is this the first drive after doing brake work, or is this the first time this problem has shown up on brakes that worked fine previously?

I had several Peugeots that had 4 on the column. I was told that since they designed it for column shifting, the linkage was very direct. They had problems when they moved the shifter to the floor--I suppose to be able to sell "sporty"--No family sedan with less than 100 HP could be considered "sporty" regardless of the rest of the spec sheet--rack and pinion steering, disc brakes at all 4 wheels and independent suspension front and rear, 9 stage shock valving and a annual wins at the East Africa Safari race.

Well you beat me. I read it once--and that was enough. He did what lawyers do--he argued his case. He combed through hundreds or thousands of pages of engineering studies and reports and found the couple of sentences that he could take ( out of context) and made it appear that his quotes were the substance of the reports. He opened the door to the expectations that " GOVERNMENT" was the only authority that could possible protect the citizens from the EVIL capitalist manufacturers.