pmhowe

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About pmhowe

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  1. It is neat to see people getting together again - safely. That looks like a fun day. I am envious. Also, liked the Cadillacs and the Rambler. Phil
  2. I love it also. I bought the DVD. Now I can watch it whenever. Some are keepers. Phil
  3. That is a very handsome car. The smiles on the two faces in the driver's seat make the picture even better. Thank you for posting it.
  4. "There is one extremely rare car in the mess." You've piqued my curiosity in this stay-at-home time. What is the rare car, and where is it? Thanks, Phil
  5. Actually, I think it has a radiator cap. My 1929 Pierce had an archer-less cap, that was quite good looking: Not flat, it had slight uplift towards the center. If I recall correctly, it was a large cap, probably 5 inches in diameter. How I miss that car! Great picture. Phil
  6. Fred Winterburn recently posted this on the MogGroup site which is a site for Morgan sports car owners/lovers. You may find it helpful. "I just posted this on the Porsche 356 registry as a lot of my customers for 6V CDIs frequent that site. I do not intend to post it on any other forum. Folks, A customer asked about a better condenser and I told him what I had suggested a few years ago in the form of a ceramic capacitor that could be soldered into a gutted condenser shell and then potted with epoxy. Quite a few people with various cars now have used this capacitor to make their own more reliable condenser. This ceramic capacitor outperforms the original paper/foil condensers of similar capacitance but appears to be now obsolete. I ordered 4 more that will do me the rest of my life. DigiKey still has them but the price has doubled from 3 years ago. I looked for a substitute but couldn't find anything that wasn't horrendously priced. This little capacitor is a good one if you want to grab a few while they are still available. It is 1000V rated and 125 degree C rated. A polypropylene high voltage capacitor might work just fine but the maximum temperature rating is usually 110 degrees C at the most. I know this little ceramic cap will take the abuse. The part number is Kemet C350C224KDR5TA I have one inside a Lucas shell for my Morgan and will do the same for the Mallory condenser on my Volvo 1800. Condensers are not stressed if using a CDI, but they take a real beating otherwise. Fred https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/e ... -ND/789646". He showed the attached picture. I have used his approach successfully with my Morgan (12V system) and Cadillac (6V system).
  7. It may be just a regular 'ol 56, but what a neat car! Congratulations. Also, please post more pictures when you get a chance.
  8. Well... OK, now that I know my limitations, I guess I will go out and fire up the walk-behind lawnmower!
  9. pmhowe

    6 volt batteries

    I think the standard for '30s, '40s, '50s and '60s batteries was that one should keep the water level just above the plates. I always filled to just below the bottom of the filler holes. That worked for me. Phil
  10. Good point. The gauge is fluctuating under different conditions. Is the car actually overheating? My criterion for overheating is boiling over with some steam. I have had several cars where the temperature gauge fluctuated from cool to normal to hot and back gain, depending upon whether I was driving uphill, downhill, on a straight, or at a light. (Actually, every one of them was British - seven '50s - '60s Jaguars, three '50s - '60s Morgans, one '59 MG). Even my current 1966 Morgan fluctuates in temperature as the thermostat does it thing in response to driving environment. My 1935 Cadillac is rock solid in its behavior: no fluctuations at all. But then, the Cadillac has enough water in its system to drown several Morgans. Phil
  11. I attended the Veterans’ Day parade in Southern Pines, NC. Highlights included a flyover of vintage military planes performing the Missing Man Formation and a parachute drop with three parachutists landing in a spot on the main street. Veterans were driven in old - or new - cars, driven by the owner and preceded by someone with a placard showing his/her name and service. Near the reviewing stand, the name of each veteran was announced as well. Veterans rode in groups by conflict - all the WWII veterans in one group, all the Korean War veterans in another, the Viet Nam veterans next, etc. It was very nicely done. Gave us a chance to see a great bunch of cars and honor a great bunch of people.
  12. If you haven't solved the problem already, I'd recommend you contact the AMC Club https://www.facebook.com/AMCRambler You may find it is a common problem with a well-known solution, or find a colleague who has had the problem and figured out a fix. I have a 1966 Morgan that had the same symptoms. For that car it was a design flaw: The water flow rate through the radiator was too high, so it didn't have a chance to cool adequately. The solution was to put a partial plug in the bypass hose. Please post the solution for your car, once you have it. Good luck, Phil
  13. Hi Carl, You are quite correct, it is a 1935 Cadillac. The body is a Fleetwood town sedan, Series 30. Mine is a V8, not the more desirable V12, but I love it. The 146 inch wheelbase has caused me to relearn my pre-power steering driving skills. I am still sorting out a few mechanical issues but, by and large, it is a very solid car. It has a surprisingly high axle ratio, (4.60/1) so comfortable cruising speed is only 45 to 50 mph. I’m guessing these cars were designed for town use. On the windy mountain roads where I live, it is a handful, but the power assisted mechanical brakes are excellent. I have never been impressed with ride control, but this one seems to be properly sorted out. It makes a big difference on bumpy country roads. According to information provided by the former owner, the car was originally sent to the Cadillac Automobile Company of Boston. It then went to California, where it remained until the 1970s, then to New Jersey. Ishowed up in auction in 2013, then again in 2017, where the previous owner apparently purchased it. Originally, it was painted Cathedral Grey with Vincennes Red wheels. At one time it had wheel disks. I don’t have any more recent fall pictures, but have attached a few from last year. Phil
  14. I have a 1966 Morgan with a four speed Moss gearbox. Most people recommend using a 30 weight oil in it. Mine had 30 weight in it, but I was unhappy with its performance. It shifted more slowly than it should and had the annoying problem of popping out of gear on hills. I replaced the 30 weight with RedLine MT 90, based upon the company's recommendation. The car now shifts more smoothly and quickly and no longer pops out of gear, even on very steep hills. However, when I tried the MT 90 in my 1935 Cadillac, it made shifting awful. The synchronizers barely worked at all. I suspect the MT 90 is too light an oil for that transmission. I’m currently trying to sort out what to try next - probably Redline or Amsoil 75w140. Both are claimed safe for yellow metals. Phil
  15. Not the most spectacular of fall colors, but here is a shot of a car that is comfortable in any setting. Phil