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Here is the clutch switch out of the Cord.   I'm very lucky that I live near Mike Lavalle of KES who restored the switch for me in 24 hours.   According to him there were a number of issues:

 

1.  The rivet on the hot input was loose and would flex losing contact.

 

2.  The plate was cracked and also flexing.

 

3.  The nubs that make contact were not even and were making uneven contact.

 

I put it in and all my starting problems were gone.   Also my shift harness is now energized with the clutch down. 

 

I was thrilled and jumped right in to testing the shifting with the new harness.   It was not doing what it is supposed to do so more testing is in order.   Sigh...

 

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44 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Under dash work sucks.....makes my head spin. Servicing the amp guage on a Duesenberg.........

For those of us who use bifocals, buy a pair of cheap-frame glasses with single vision at 15-inch focal length for under-dash and similar work.  Some airline pilots have glasses with the bifocal on the upper part of the lenses to read overhead instrument displays, but this would be substantially more expensive.

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Todays effort was on the front seat [still !!!]. Firstly I made some foam filler pieces to go behind the back rest springs, mainly to give the springs some support across the back part of the seat frame.

The original spring assemblies were not useable so I ended up modifying the seats from a 1959 220s Mercedes  Benz to suit [ sorry😁]. I only had to remove about 12inches from the centre to make it fit .

Next I attached some what Aussies call hessian [burlap/jute] to the frame with hog rings with a layer of 3/8 inch thick fibre insulation sandwiched between the springs and the hessian. Then all of that was attached to the seat frame with insulated pipe clamps. I left the top piece of hessian long so it can be tacked along the top of the frame to support the padding under the seat cover.

Cheers Mark

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Busy day at the museum! Leaving home the thermometer read a sweltering 35 degrees with patches of snow lingering from the last storm. 2-1/2 hours south at the museum it topped 70 today. Lot done! A group of Students from the University of Maine Construction Engineering Technology program fabricated some picnic tables for us. Great group to work with! 

 

With the boiler inspection complete on the No. 38 Lombard we finished putting it back together and used the compressor to test it for leaks and limber it up a bit. It took me by surprise. I had the throttle closed and when I moved the reverse lever forward it decided to move off unexpectedly so we had a bit of a rapid back and forth for a bit as I overshot the neutral notch on the reverse guadrant. No harm but when a 19 ton machine does something like that its rather alarming. We will have to keep an eye on it and maybe inspect and lap the throttle valve if its leaking by.

 

We greased the various bearings on the sawmill and ran that a bit. We also had a "spa day" for the no. 74 Lombard. A good washing makes all the difference! We also demonstrated the 1928 Lombard dump truck and the 1932 10 ton Lombard. Some brush was cut, some doors were painted. My daughter did a lot of sweeping and cleaning and her first driving lesson. A great day!

 

 

Edited by Terry Harper (see edit history)
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Getting near the finish line moving out of the old garage.

Two trailer loads like this one with tools and such yesterday.

 

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It was by chance a friend said he was going out for a drive to exercise one of his cars asking if I needed a hand. Yup, come on by.

 

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This can't be over soon enough... 

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21 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

Looks great lots of work no doubt  .These are things that make workmanship stand out . 👍 Original looks like fab-ed from ,a malleable beam clamp thur hanger , of the plumbing style .

I wanted to use a beam clamp originally, but I couldn't find a modern one that was close enough.

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So after replacing the entire shift harness on the Cord,  replacing the interlock switch, rebuilding the clutch switch and selection switch,  I've narrowed things down to either me being an idiot, or the problem is actually in the solenoid bank.   I sleep at night knowing that all the previous work was probably worthwhile given the restoration was done over 50 years ago.

 

Then shifting to 3 or R with the interlock switch in the middle spot I should be seeing the vacuum gauge on the right showing 45 and I'm getting zilch.  Good vacuum on the left gauge going to 4th.

 

The positions of the shift lever are ,  Left side: 4th on top,  Middle:2nd on top, Neutral, 3rd on the bottom, Right: Reverse on top, 1st on the bottom.

 

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3 hours ago, alsancle said:

  I've narrowed things down to either me being an idiot, or the problem is actually in the solenoid bank.   

 

I propose we ask the membership to vote on the above choice......anyone want to lay odds on the final tally? I bet idiot wins by ten to one. 😜

 

Cant you feel the love?
 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Holley 1-4psi fuel regulator...If its leaking fuel out the adjustment bolt the diaphragm is compromised! Don't try sealing up the bolt threads. They are on the dry side of the diaphragm.  Doh! Every day we learn something new is a good day.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got a new battery for this mothballed car and started it up. Then washed it.

California Gold Mothers California Gold Wash And Wax | MTH 05674 | Qty: 1   64 ounce $4.99. Tried this for the first time, good product.

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Plenty more needs to be done to make this my regular daily driver vehicle. It has two fuel pumps, a low pressure in-tank "lift pump" and an external high pressure fuel injection pump. It has Bosch CIS continuous fuel injection like many Mercedes and others of the early 1980's. Will need a new CAT and be smog tested, leaking brake wheel cylinder, probably a new clutch.

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Working on a 1952 TD Person that started putting this back together had his head up hisxxx . Had to redo every part 'wrong bolts ,parts in wrong . Some had to be replaced . Lots of fun but will be a nice car when done .

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On 5/6/2021 at 10:32 PM, keithb7 said:

Holley 1-4psi fuel regulator...If its leaking fuel out the adjustment bolt the diaphragm is compromised! Don't try sealing up the bolt threads. They are on the dry side of the diaphragm.  Doh! Every day we learn something new is a good day.

 

 

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That regulator will restrict volume............be sure you don’t run lean. 

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On 5/27/2021 at 8:55 AM, edinmass said:

That regulator will restrict volume............be sure you don’t run lean. 

 

I may be experiencing a lean symptom at higher RPM. I'm not 100% sure yet. I still have some other variables to sort out.  Is there anything I can do, other than remove the regulator and go back to to the stock fuel pump? Is there way to confirm if I am really running lean at high RPM? I feel some power surging at higher RPM. Adjusting timing and float height makes no difference.  I noticed a couple of back fire events yesterday while testing to try narrow down the root cause. I was tuning, making adjustments and testing. Seems to me the back firing was on deceleration only when it did occur. If I recall is this sign of a lean condition?

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My "working on right now" has got moved back a few days as my 73 year old back and my 18 year old mind were not working sensibly together... BUT, when I'm all better, I'll be taking the monster cast iron DG250-M transmission out of my 55 Studebaker and putting in a GM 200 4R. Got everything ready except for the driveshaft mod if that's needed, even bought a new 3 ton floor jack as my two oldies gave up the ghost...or some such parts, ha ! I won't be using the smaller flex plate, just the one that came in the great looking adapter kit from Fairborne Studebaker in the box lid. I also already have a trans cooler I forgot to lay in the pic. Looking forward to this !!

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On ‎5‎/‎31‎/‎2021 at 8:56 AM, keithb7 said:

Is there way to confirm if I am really running lean at high RPM?

I assume the car is one of your prewars with a hand choke; if it is, then pulling out the hand choke slightly would make a very noticeable improvement if it was jetted too lean.

 

I went through that with a local guy's 40s mopar.  He had another shop chase the issues in vain.  It obviously felt lean to me so I used the choke to verify that it was too lean. 

 

He did say he found a NOS carburetor and I saw online that Mopar offered an optional economy carb for flat terrain that had lean jets.  I reamed the jet size and it cured the issue.

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Installed rebuild booster and upgrade to dual master on the 1963 Riviera. Need to fabricate some brake lines and put in new power steering hoses the same time while There was better accesss to it with the master and booster removed. Need to bent the new tubes slightly to clear the larger dual master. Waited for the booster all winter long. Shipped it out before Christmas. Hope to get it back to the road soon, but have to make some other rust fix and rust Prevention befor I put everything back together.

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Like it has been posted by some before, this might not appear auto related but in fact indeed is.

 

I've had this 10x20 tent beside the house for years and the plastic cover needs replacing again which I was somewhat planning for but things / plans have changed...

My neighbour of 38 years has found rotten wood posts in his fence that has to be fixed. 

He is in construction so has a crew to do the work whereas I work alone and things take time doing it this way. They had all the wood removed from the brick wall in about a day and then started removing, cleaning and replacing the broken bricks over the next two days. 

 

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The eavestrough down spout is plumbed into a line that travels along that brick wall on my side but... there is evidence there maybe a crack somewhere with dirty water coming out where it drains into the ditch out back so... Need to either hand dig (not actually thinking about that) or removing the tent and all its contents to allow access for a back hoe to come in. 

In 92 degree heat yesterday started removing the pathway bricks and garden border rocks for later use but had to quit due to being in the direct sunlight and heat. 

 

With shade from the house I started dismantling my old snowmobile for the scrapper s the motor has seized and the belly pan has rotted away plus all the other things needed to make it run again. It was fun back in it's day but the back won't take it now...

 

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The auto connection you ask?

Once this is all totally removed, I have the neighbour looking into building a hard lean to roof where I will be able to park one of the cars under in the near future.

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On 6/3/2021 at 6:19 PM, alsancle said:

I need to get the radiator shell and hoods on my Stutz so it can go get its engine dropped in.   More work than you would think.   More work than I thought.

 

Nothing fits,  even though it all came apart at one point...

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I see that you are also into collecting red gas cans...how many times have you or your dad run out of gas and you have had to buy another new one at the nearest gas station?

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Put an unfinished fender in paint to see if I'm in love with the color, and I am.  Yes, it will all get sanded back down because it wasn't properly prepped, etc...  I just wanted to see the color in the sun and on some curves.  Its a 1959 Volkswagen Strato Blue. 

 

 

 

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Cutting, grinding, and 15 gallons of gas next to the car.................😱

 

 

Listen to you father.......he’s right.

 

Shut up and work...........quit your bellyaching!

 

If your not bleeding, your not working.

 

Don't worry Johnny and I will fix all the stuff you screwed up on it........read that as everything you did.

 

Have a wonderful day..........

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2 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Cutting, grinding, and 15 gallons of gas next to the car.................😱

 

 

Listen to you father.......he’s right.

 

Shut up and work...........quit your bellyaching!

 

If your not bleeding, your not working.

 

Don't worry Johnny and I will fix all the stuff you screwed up on it........read that as everything you did.

 

Have a wonderful day..........

 

I'm happy you are going to fix everything.   What do you call putting a car back together again that has been in pieces in 4 separate locations?

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As to the title of this post.......what did I work on today?

 

1933 Phantom II Rolls dynamo R&R........which is ten times more work than you think.

 

1934 Packard 1108 Individual Custom Dietrich tail light.

 

1930 V-16 Cadillac general service and check over.

 

A bunch of paperwork for this years shows........

 

Ordered a bunch of parts and supplies..........

 

Other stuff I can’t remember.

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Just now, edinmass said:

As to the title of this post.......what did I work on today?

 

1933 Phantom II Rolls dynamo R&R........which is ten times more work than you think.

 

1934 Packard 1108 Individual Custom Dietrich tail light.

 

1930 V-16 Cadillac general service and check over.

 

A bunch of paperwork for this years shows........

 

Ordered a bunch of parts and supplies..........

 

Other stuff I can’t remember.

 

What is a dynamo on a RR?  Do you mean Magneto?   And I can't help but notice an important car missing from your list.

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11 hours ago, alsancle said:

 

What is a dynamo on a RR?  Do you mean Magneto?   And I can't help but notice an important car missing from your list.


I thought you were an Ivey League engineering graduate............a dc generator in the UK is a dynamo. Look it up.    Tisk Tisk.

 

And you wonder why WO kicked Stutz’s ass at Le Mans.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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10 hours ago, edinmass said:


I thought you were an Ivey League engineering graduate............a dc generator in the UK is a dynamo. Look it up.    Tisk Tisk.

 

And you wonder why WO kicked Stutz’s ass at Le Mons.

 

If Rolls Royce called it a "Dynamo" why is it labeled with a "M" for magneto on the dash?   I don't have my manual near me,  but I wouldn't doubt I'm misunderstanding something.

 

Thrupp__amp__Maberly_Rolls-Royce_Phantom

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