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Everything posted by OldGerman

  1. Used gear ? I bought this set TS576 from CARS. I think the surface marks are left from the machining, but there was no surface treatment like grinding. It is not a high precision part, but that is maybe not required. I‘m thinking of leaving this part in the box and order the TA performance chain set. This is not the first time I buy things twice....
  2. I also used just one of The 3 Mr. gasket 98 steel plates. I need to grind a small cutout on one side to clear the choke or carb Linkage. Plugged the intake holes in addition as I will not use the car as a dayly driver or in cold climate condition.
  3. Good Morning, read a discussion in this forum about water pump replacement and timing gear set replacement. This time I started a new Topic before intruding in an existing one. Has anyone made experience with the timing gear and chain set from CARS ? I purchased one a while back and brought it with me to Germany. Still not installed, and from visual inspection, it seems the gears did not went trough any deburring process and no heat treatment. Maybe I’m wrong with the heat treatment. I know now there is much better quality parts available ( See second pic.) but now this set is already on my bench. It has only one small hole in the larger gear, while others sets have two small bores of a different size. Would you use the set and what kind of deburring treatment should I do ( no tumbler available for me). What is the second larger bore for in the second Photo ( this is not the CARS kit I have) ? thank you.
  4. I agree to the risk of damaging fender if there is just a small hit on the corner. With the bolts and washers uninstalled, I saw the bumper ends shaking when car ran in idel. (Ok, you may say I have to fix an issue on my ignition or engine first , 😂 ) I also noticed both brackets were cracked from continious bumper vibration. Is this a common problem with or without the outer bolts installed ?
  5. You will be able to find aftermarket emergency light flasher here in europe as well. Bosch and Hella have them for vintage cars. Just be careful, there a special ones for US classic cars which do not have separate yellow flash lights, but using brake light as well.
  6. Anybody selling a Opel Kadett B with the larger 1.9 liter CIH engine offered by Buick between 1968 to 72 ? Would like the 2 door coupe or a station wagon would also be cool. A solid rust free body would be important to me. Mechanical condition is secondary, but should be complete. Attached some pictures just for reference what I‘looking for. Any tip or link to a local seller in a dry climate state would be very much appreciated. thank you
  7. Aron, Used two bottles of the Förch cleaner in clear water for three days and a few hundred kilometers. The result was unexpected good.
  8. Are you looking for something to clean the Motor cooling system and the radiator ? Do not use citric Acid powder. I did it once and it ended in a leaking water pump from the citrat which has been Build in the System. It was not possible the flush this out ! But I had very good experience after this with a cooling System cleaner bought at my local Auto supply. I ran it three days in my car with lime free rain water on a longer weekend tour. Comming Home first thing was draining all the water out and open the drain plugs on the motor Block (1966 mopar 383 Cui) and flushed it with clear water frome in the Garden hose. The result was much better then expected. Was not expensive at about 16€ and just needed two small bottles for the 17 liter cooling system capacity. Yes 17 liter when opening the drain plugs in the motor block. I will have a look for name and brand when you are interested.
  9. Installed rebuild booster and upgrade to dual master on the 1963 Riviera. Need to fabricate some brake lines and put in new power steering hoses the same time while There was better accesss to it with the master and booster removed. Need to bent the new tubes slightly to clear the larger dual master. Waited for the booster all winter long. Shipped it out before Christmas. Hope to get it back to the road soon, but have to make some other rust fix and rust Prevention befor I put everything back together.
  10. I want to remove the door skin, where do I have to remove the cables, at the joy stick or at the mirror ?
  11. Have the same problem since I had my carb off for rebuild. Installed it with a new AC fuel filter. My first thought was I did something wrong on my rebuild. inspired from this post I blocked the return line and the stumble disappeared. I can turn this effect on and off by adjusting this clamp on the return line. When blocking the return line completely, my fuel pump becomes noisy.
  12. Ed, shop manual states max 1/2“ of shims. Over this point you are going to run out off thread on the bolts, or you need longer bolts. Frank
  13. I adjusted the upper control arm one turn out off center (to move the upper arm backwards). I guess a single turn was not enough. Unfortunately it is not possible to adjust this again while the care is already on the lift in the alignment shop. I would not go the way with pulling the lower control arm forwards by the reaction rod. As sayed before in this thread, our Rivieras are cruisers, not made to race on the Nuerburgring 😉 So far I am happy with the result as it is for now. It drives much better then before with its -1* caster. The car runs straight and there is not to much understeer. I drive slow anyhow 😁
  14. Have been at the wheel alignment shop today. we tried to get as much positve caster as possible. it was not possible to gain more than +1degree both sides without exceeding max. Shimming spec. the car is sitting lower in the front at driver side. I guess the spring was sacking over time. I donˋt know what the previous drivers weight was 🤔😉 may need to shim the front spring as well some time.... By chance I researched this nice alignment shop with a very good modern optical and mechanical equipment. It is transportabel and used on race tracks. The shop is specialized on Porsche and AMG‘s, located close to the Mercedes AMG plant. The mechanic liked the Buick and the easy way how to adjust. car runs straight and smooth. Job accomplished. Thank you for this Thread which helped me a lot. Frank
  15. Hi Riviera Folks, does anybody have a specification (Dimensions) of the front alignment hight tool? Thank you frank
  16. Hallo Eric, ich stand vor dem gleichen Problem und habe meinen centerlink auch in die USA geschickt für die Überholung. Mit Versandkosten und Zoll hat das etwas über 500 € gekostet. Für die Zeit der Überholung hat mir freundlicherweise jemand einen centerlink ausgeliehen, so dass ich das fahrzeug in der Werkstatt während der Restauration rangieren konnte. ich hatte das seinerzeit in 2015 über CARS Inc. abgewickelt. 292€ plus Versand hat es 360$ gekostet. Hier dann nochmal 75€ einfuhrzoll. Das einsenden in die USA hat mich auch nochmal ca. 50€ gekostet, war aber mit einer entsprechenden Zollerklärung zollfrei. Bestellnummer war CL635R. Gruss Frank
  17. I did a Full conversion from Pertronix I to III with a new coil, Spark wires and a power Relais and the old madam fired up right at the first key turn. Needed the installation of a diode at the voltage regulator because the engine keeps on running with ignition key turned off. After a small adjustment of the ignition timing, engine has a smooth idle. I think I Need to check my vacuum advance as there is always a stumble/hesitation when accelarating. But that could have several other reasons (carb power valve?). I had the carb off and redone 3 years ago, but suddenly it Starts to leak at the base plate..... LOL
  18. Thank you for your comments. I will bypass the resistance-wire from the key switch to the coil. thank you, Frank
  19. Hello 1st. Gen Riviera owners with Pertronix conversion, I would like to follow up on this old Thread, because I have an issue with my Pertronix 1181 System. I did some electric work on my headlights (added a relay for high and low beam) but suddenly my 1963 Riviera does not fire up anymore. In the Moment I assume I killed the ignitor Module by having ingnition on to long without engine running. Digging through the installation instruction, I read the balast resistor is not needed if a 1.5 Ohm coil is installed. I‘m measuring 5.8 volts on the positive wire at the coil. So there must be a resistor installed somewhere, but I can not find it in the engine compartment. Does anybody know, wehre Buick hides the resistor? I want to bypass the resistor when installing a new Pertronix Module, but need to know where it is located. thank you for your help. Frank
  20. This seems to be a 1.9l CIH. I4, 90 horsepower 4 speed manual transmission Opel Rekord C build between 1967 to 1972. Ther was no GT version available, looks like a self made creation. The car has an Austrian country sticker on the back. This vehicle Typ Assembly was Continued in Brasil, when production was changed over to the „D“ model in 1972/73. in Rüsselsheim. Regards from Germany Frank
  21. Battery charged electric cars will just be a bridge technology or mainly used inner city for little distances. Overland travel will need the development of new technologies, like hydrogens. I‘m scared that the environmental damage caused by exploring resources needed to build batteries will be much worse than the desasters Caused by sinking oil ships and leacky oil platforms. I will not like to think to much about the environmental pollution by old batteries or the recycling of millions of this batteries, which will reach end of life in only a few years.... there is no industry for that. Most likely this batteries will end up in China or somewhere else where nobody cares about environmental protection. driving your 50 + year old Riviera is the best way to behave sustained. Frank
  22. Radiator is out for re-coring. There is still not plenty of room between engine block , K-Member and Engine Mounts. It seems impossible to get the tubes through this bottle neck with the pre-bendings. I'm thinking about cutting out a section of the steel piping and replacing a portion with flexible Hydraulik rubber hose. That makes it easier to assemble. Does somebody know what the pressure of the ATF oil could be at a maximum flowing through the cooling lines ? Would a low pressure hose be suffcient ? ATF Fluid is a challenge for must rubber hoses. Need to find a compatible material wiht 3/8" / 9.5mm ID. Frank
  23. Hello Rob, found this thread through the search. I'm just going to assemble new lines, but it seems they will not fit at all. I know it's Long time ago when you did this. but did you take some Pictures ? I guess you have installed the lines during frame off resto ? Want to install new lines on my running car but ith seems there is no way to get new lines in with the Engine and transmission installed in the vehicle. What do you think ? Frank
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