OldGerman

Tom, I‘ve sent you a PN.

Bosch WR9FP also no longer available here in Bosch Town Stuttgart Germany. Found this replacement table, but No gurantee for correctness.

Puh, nice task. I will try to measure the angle I can wiggle the cam sprocket both directions with the crankshaft fixed in TDC position. Unfortunately, I don‘t have a degree wheel for accurate measurement.

I have the wrong ( too short) bolt as well, because the engine was swapped from a 62’ Le Sabre. If anyone has the correct bolt for the AC alternator bracket for sale, please let me know.

Here is the rim matrix.

John, happy new year. No, I had no problem with the crankshaft sprocket beeing too thight. No sanding or grinding was required. I have a TA Performance Single roller timing Kit. A light tapping with a hammer on a pipe and the sproket moved into final position. To assemble the chain, I had to back up the sprocket a little bit and I used a puller with two arms ( but with the crankshaft bolt in Place). There was very low torque required on the puller screw, to move the sprocket. But yes, the chain is not very thight. I‘ve rotated the crankshaft by two revs, no change to the chain slack. But I guess it is ok as is.

Die Had a new Roller chain installed and still it has a Little bit slack ( much less than the original worn chain) I read a post and someone wrote, it was hard to get the cam sprocket alligned with the new Roller chain on it, because it is so thight. No such problems here. What could be the reason for such differences , just manufacturing tolerances ?

Now, 4 years later, the summit balancer holding Tool cost 2,5 times the price. Still a good Investment.

I‘m not a cavitation expert, But Somehow you could imagine why the Surface has pitting in certain areas by following the water stream. I‘m not concerend that the surface pitting will lead to a water leak or loss of pump volume. So I will use this timing chain cover because it is a original Quality piece made from high pressure die cast, and not a gravity sand cast with potential Porosity. I just need to get the broken 1/4“ bolt out of that pocket at the left outlet. it looks like there is a Lot of water turbulence in the area of the cold water Outlet ports in the „turbine“ Housing at the edge Leading into the small passages at the top and bottom of the housing.

Tom, what did you experienced will happen with such cavitation. Water leaking, or Poor Pump Performance ? It only Looks like a Surface

What I wanted to say is, the bolt came off easily with the method explained before. The bolt itself was thight and the power impact wrench I got was not capable to loose it. So I blocked the piston after TDC with a soft rope through spark Plug hole and a Long extension pipe on the wrench made it.

I‘m glad to have the timing chain repair on this winter project List. Next seoson could have ended in a desaster. The Timing chain is very sloppy and the plastic is very brittle and loose.

Balancer bolt came loose easily. I‘ve noticed there was one of the small 1/4“ bolt Borken in the Timing chain cover from a previous pump change.

No 1 cylinder is at TDC now for changing Timing chain. Good idea !!

I‘m more concerned about the 1“ nut with 1/2“ drive will Crack.

Good Point. I have compressed air but no impact wrench. I will borow a powertool from somewhere. 😏

Are ther Brake shoes availabe for drums with the diameter close to the upper end of the maximum tolerance ? I have not Seen dimensional Information on the Brake shoe thickness/arc diameter of any part you can aquire in the www. Any recommendation ?

All bolts came loose without too much of an resistance. The critical long bolts were soacked with ATF/Aceton for a few days through the small side bores and the crusty corrosion was mostly dissolved. I‘m a step closer to the Timing chain swap now. Next will be to break loose the balancer bolt.

Found the same hole on my 63. Not normal ?

I like this idea and will give it a trial. Drilled 2mm holes and filled it with magic mystery Oil. did not jet reach the bolts on the side with radiator installed. That will be next.

Wow, that leather interior is awsome.

Oh, look at this gasoline fume clouds when accelarating... maximum miles per gallon is not a desired result, but it Looks like many smiles per Miles. 🤩

Leaded fuel is no longer available in Europe. Switzerland was the last country prohibited it in 2000. On european gasoline stations, you have no longer regular fuel with 91 Roz, but only super E5 with 95 Roz (5% Methanols) , super E10 95 Roz 10% Ethanol, and Super Plus with 98 Roz (5% Ethanol). there are also premium fuels with 100/102 Roz, very expensive. I‘m using E5 and somtimes adding a valve protection additive. I’m also adding 1/300 two stroke oel into the Gas tank for some on top intake valve and piston lubrication. I do not Race my car and Canot Hear valve ping. 95 Roz is sufficient, if you do not race and avoid hard accelaration. Just my opinion, I‘m no expert.

Cool, never Seen before.

What Is he doing here, wheel alignment ?