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About OldGerman

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  • Birthday 02/10/1968

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  1. Have the same problem since I had my carb off for rebuild. Installed it with a new AC fuel filter. My first thought was I did something wrong on my rebuild. inspired from this post I blocked the return line and the stumble disappeared. I can turn this effect on and off by adjusting this clamp on the return line. When blocking the return line completely, my fuel pump becomes noisy.
  2. Ed, shop manual states max 1/2“ of shims. Over this point you are going to run out off thread on the bolts, or you need longer bolts. Frank
  3. I adjusted the upper control arm one turn out off center (to move the upper arm backwards). I guess a single turn was not enough. Unfortunately it is not possible to adjust this again while the care is already on the lift in the alignment shop. I would not go the way with pulling the lower control arm forwards by the reaction rod. As sayed before in this thread, our Rivieras are cruisers, not made to race on the Nuerburgring 😉 So far I am happy with the result as it is for now. It drives much better then before with its -1* caster. The car runs straight and t
  4. Have been at the wheel alignment shop today. we tried to get as much positve caster as possible. it was not possible to gain more than +1degree both sides without exceeding max. Shimming spec. the car is sitting lower in the front at driver side. I guess the spring was sacking over time. I donˋt know what the previous drivers weight was 🤔😉 may need to shim the front spring as well some time.... By chance I researched this nice alignment shop with a very good modern optical and mechanical equipment. It is transportabel and used on race tracks. The shop is spe
  5. Hi Riviera Folks, does anybody have a specification (Dimensions) of the front alignment hight tool? Thank you frank
  6. Hallo Eric, ich stand vor dem gleichen Problem und habe meinen centerlink auch in die USA geschickt für die Überholung. Mit Versandkosten und Zoll hat das etwas über 500 € gekostet. Für die Zeit der Überholung hat mir freundlicherweise jemand einen centerlink ausgeliehen, so dass ich das fahrzeug in der Werkstatt während der Restauration rangieren konnte. ich hatte das seinerzeit in 2015 über CARS Inc. abgewickelt. 292€ plus Versand hat es 360$ gekostet. Hier dann nochmal 75€ einfuhrzoll. Das einsenden in die USA hat mich auch nochmal ca. 50€ gekostet, war aber mit eine
  7. I did a Full conversion from Pertronix I to III with a new coil, Spark wires and a power Relais and the old madam fired up right at the first key turn. Needed the installation of a diode at the voltage regulator because the engine keeps on running with ignition key turned off. After a small adjustment of the ignition timing, engine has a smooth idle. I think I Need to check my vacuum advance as there is always a stumble/hesitation when accelarating. But that could have several other reasons (carb power valve?). I had the carb off and redone 3 years ago, but suddenly it Starts
  8. Thank you for your comments. I will bypass the resistance-wire from the key switch to the coil. thank you, Frank
  9. Hello 1st. Gen Riviera owners with Pertronix conversion, I would like to follow up on this old Thread, because I have an issue with my Pertronix 1181 System. I did some electric work on my headlights (added a relay for high and low beam) but suddenly my 1963 Riviera does not fire up anymore. In the Moment I assume I killed the ignitor Module by having ingnition on to long without engine running. Digging through the installation instruction, I read the balast resistor is not needed if a 1.5 Ohm coil is installed. I‘m measuring 5.8 volts on the positive
  10. This seems to be a 1.9l CIH. I4, 90 horsepower 4 speed manual transmission Opel Rekord C build between 1967 to 1972. Ther was no GT version available, looks like a self made creation. The car has an Austrian country sticker on the back. This vehicle Typ Assembly was Continued in Brasil, when production was changed over to the „D“ model in 1972/73. in Rüsselsheim. Regards from Germany Frank
  11. Battery charged electric cars will just be a bridge technology or mainly used inner city for little distances. Overland travel will need the development of new technologies, like hydrogens. I‘m scared that the environmental damage caused by exploring resources needed to build batteries will be much worse than the desasters Caused by sinking oil ships and leacky oil platforms. I will not like to think to much about the environmental pollution by old batteries or the recycling of millions of this batteries, which will reach end of life in only a few years.... there is no industry for
  12. Radiator is out for re-coring. There is still not plenty of room between engine block , K-Member and Engine Mounts. It seems impossible to get the tubes through this bottle neck with the pre-bendings. I'm thinking about cutting out a section of the steel piping and replacing a portion with flexible Hydraulik rubber hose. That makes it easier to assemble. Does somebody know what the pressure of the ATF oil could be at a maximum flowing through the cooling lines ? Would a low pressure hose be suffcient ? ATF Fluid is a challenge for must rubber hoses. Need t
  13. Hello Rob, found this thread through the search. I'm just going to assemble new lines, but it seems they will not fit at all. I know it's Long time ago when you did this. but did you take some Pictures ? I guess you have installed the lines during frame off resto ? Want to install new lines on my running car but ith seems there is no way to get new lines in with the Engine and transmission installed in the vehicle. What do you think ? Frank
  14. Just to complete this thread, column installation is finished. It just needed to add a single ball to the upper bearing. With plenty of luck I found that ball in the column in accident. With that missing ball installed, the bearing is free of lash. lower bearing was cleaned and new lubrication applied. The steering coupling was replaced by a repair kit from Cars Inc. I did set back the steering wheel to the original center position as marked. I need an wheel alignment, because I did replace the A-arm bushings and upper ball Joints. Now the st
  15. Hi Ed, can you please explain where you drill that hole without creating a leackage. Could you show a picture please. I want to Unterstand this idea, because I‘m just in the process to installing a new radiator and fan shroud and want to avoid overheating in warming up phase due to air trapped in the system and thermostate does not open due to the air. I made that experience on other cars. Thank you regards Frank
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