OldGerman

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About OldGerman

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  • Birthday 02/10/1968

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Esslingen a.N. , Germany
  • Interests:
    ROA#15927

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  1. Hello 1st. Gen Riviera owners with Pertronix conversion, I would like to follow up on this old Thread, because I have an issue with my Pertronix 1181 System. I did some electric work on my headlights (added a relay for high and low beam) but suddenly my 1963 Riviera does not fire up anymore. In the Moment I assume I killed the ignitor Module by having ingnition on to long without engine running. Digging through the installation instruction, I read the balast resistor is not needed if a 1.5 Ohm coil is installed. I‘m measuring 5.8 volts on the positive wire at the coil. So there must be a resistor installed somewhere, but I can not find it in the engine compartment. Does anybody know, wehre Buick hides the resistor? I want to bypass the resistor when installing a new Pertronix Module, but need to know where it is located. thank you for your help. Frank
  2. This seems to be a 1.9l CIH. I4, 90 horsepower 4 speed manual transmission Opel Rekord C build between 1967 to 1972. Ther was no GT version available, looks like a self made creation. The car has an Austrian country sticker on the back. This vehicle Typ Assembly was Continued in Brasil, when production was changed over to the „D“ model in 1972/73. in Rüsselsheim. Regards from Germany Frank
  3. Battery charged electric cars will just be a bridge technology or mainly used inner city for little distances. Overland travel will need the development of new technologies, like hydrogens. I‘m scared that the environmental damage caused by exploring resources needed to build batteries will be much worse than the desasters Caused by sinking oil ships and leacky oil platforms. I will not like to think to much about the environmental pollution by old batteries or the recycling of millions of this batteries, which will reach end of life in only a few years.... there is no industry for that. Most likely this batteries will end up in China or somewhere else where nobody cares about environmental protection. driving your 50 + year old Riviera is the best way to behave sustained. Frank
  4. Radiator is out for re-coring. There is still not plenty of room between engine block , K-Member and Engine Mounts. It seems impossible to get the tubes through this bottle neck with the pre-bendings. I'm thinking about cutting out a section of the steel piping and replacing a portion with flexible Hydraulik rubber hose. That makes it easier to assemble. Does somebody know what the pressure of the ATF oil could be at a maximum flowing through the cooling lines ? Would a low pressure hose be suffcient ? ATF Fluid is a challenge for must rubber hoses. Need to find a compatible material wiht 3/8" / 9.5mm ID. Frank
  5. Hello Rob, found this thread through the search. I'm just going to assemble new lines, but it seems they will not fit at all. I know it's Long time ago when you did this. but did you take some Pictures ? I guess you have installed the lines during frame off resto ? Want to install new lines on my running car but ith seems there is no way to get new lines in with the Engine and transmission installed in the vehicle. What do you think ? Frank
  6. Just to complete this thread, column installation is finished. It just needed to add a single ball to the upper bearing. With plenty of luck I found that ball in the column in accident. With that missing ball installed, the bearing is free of lash. lower bearing was cleaned and new lubrication applied. The steering coupling was replaced by a repair kit from Cars Inc. I did set back the steering wheel to the original center position as marked. I need an wheel alignment, because I did replace the A-arm bushings and upper ball Joints. Now the steering feels thight again.
  7. Hi Ed, can you please explain where you drill that hole without creating a leackage. Could you show a picture please. I want to Unterstand this idea, because I‘m just in the process to installing a new radiator and fan shroud and want to avoid overheating in warming up phase due to air trapped in the system and thermostate does not open due to the air. I made that experience on other cars. Thank you regards Frank
  8. Does anybody know what the exact production numbers were in 64 & 65 ? Close to 40.000 or far away ?
  9. Made the rebuild today with the fix kit supplied by CARS. Made my own ground wire.
  10. Thank you Bob, no hurry ! This is not an important item. Up to now I was able to operate the car without the owners manual. Frank
  11. Hello Zimmer63, you are correct, the cable attaches to the door actuating lever. From there a small stiff rod connects to the heater valve actuating lever. I found a picture, but it is not that good to see the details. Maybe somebody else has made a closer picture. My heater valve is currently out for repair and I temporarely swept in a plastic VW valve (Golf, Polo, Jetta). I did not connect it to the rod. I need to open the hood to adjust. Frank
  12. Hello Bill, Tom, I will check out ebay USA and will simply provide an adress in USA as mentioned above, if international shipping is not listed. I guess books , brochures and literature has a different shipping rates rather than hardware in a box . should be much less expensive. Frank
  13. Bill, Thank you . That is interesting. This links did not Show up on my search. I Need to change setting in my ipad I guess. I will follow up. Frank
  14. Hi Bill, Thank you, i do have the Shop Service manual about chassis and Body. That is a big help.! yes I tried eBay. All online Shops are loacated in USA. cost is about 25 to 40 $, plus shipping. I could provide an address from a friend in Michigan and pick it up myself on my next visit in September. Frank