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About DV8

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  • Birthday 05/09/1975

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  1. Well what do you know... Upon closer inspection of the dimmer switch it appears that when replacing it I accidentally "Missed" one of the blades in the connecting harness and bent it slightly out of the way. Turns out that was the easy fix. Thanks for the help as always, guys!
  2. I probably should have mentioned that I already replaced the dimmer switch and the 3 wire harness connecting it.
  3. So my high beams stopped working a while back and I'm just getting around to isolating the problem. The headlights work but when I try to switch on the high beams with the floor switch the headlights shut off and the dash indicator doesn't work as well. Can some one direct me to where the headlamp relay is located? Should I try replacing the relay or the main light switch first?
  4. Most of the stuff has been claimed. Still have the tire iron (which to the best of my knowledge is original) and the vacuum hose set.
  5. This stuff is all original (to the best of my knowledge) and came off my '65. All salvageable but I have no use for it and I'm trying to clear up some work space: 5 blade fan AC condenser Cigarette lighters Glove box map clip Washer bottle clip Tire iron Set of color coded vacuum lines Anyone wants any or all of this I'm just asking you PayPal or Venmo me the cost of shipping.
  6. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    Yeah it does. It's a little blue-ish in the photo. I see it. Pretty sure Chris sees it. AmIRight?!
  7. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    Yes, Chris. That first photo is exactly what I needed. Thanks!
  8. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    And one more query so I can get this setup properly: The stove pipe connects to the exhaust manifold at the opening that has the nipple and the clean air supply goes into the end that is about a 1/4" hole or other way around? I still have yet to find a photo of this setup correctly anywhere on the internet so if anyone has one it would help me out a lot.
  9. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    Yes, the small rubber gasket was there and practically crumbled as I pulled it away. I replaced it with the brand new one from the choke rebuild/conversion kit so that seal should be all good.
  10. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    OK so a lot of progress but still something in question. Here's what I just did: -Removed the carburetor -Cleaned all the gunk out of the exhaust channel in the manifold (There was quite a bit of gunk but very little corrosion) -Cleaned all contact surfaces with sandpaper, steel wool, carb cleaner etc. -New fiber gasket and steel plate -Remounted carb Started right up, choke opened in a few minutes and the engine runs smoother than I've ever heard it based on sound a feel. Here's my on question: After I let it warm up I still wasn't getting a vacuum reading at the choke stove pipe inlet. This time it wasn't blowing exhaust because I now have the steel plate where it should be, which is good but, still not pulling hot air from the stove pipe. Here's my thought: I didn't check it until it was warmed up and the choke was all the way open. Does that little piston valve inside the choke housing block the vacuum to the stove pipe once the choke is open? Therefore the only way to properly test the stove pipe inlet for vacuum is from a completely cold start during the first few minutes of the engine running?
  11. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    So just removing the carb, giving the underside channels a good once over with a wire brush and some carb cleaner and replacing the plates should correct it? Anything else anyone can think of?
  12. So I realized I'm supposed to follow up and post on the resolution. I was able to get a brake reaction rod in pretty good shape from Mario(?) at his Riviera boneyard in Rancho Cucominga. I used the old bushings because the kit I buy for the suspension rebuild will have a new set. So far it's working well as ever without even having anything realigned. Still planning on rebuilding the entire suspension when I have an empty weekend (or week more realistically) and about a thousand bucks.
  13. DV8

    Choke Stove Pipe

    I just got around to pulling apart my choke housing, cleaning everything and replacing a few small parts. At first I wasn't getting any vacuum at the stove pipe inlet. I poked a wire brush deep down the hole well into the carb and managed to free up quite a bit of gunk. At that point not only was I still not getting vacuum, it was slightly blowing positive air. The vacuum gage was wiggling just around zero. I'm able to get a good vacuum level everywhere else on the carb where there should be vacuum but how is it even possible that I'm getting positive air at the stove pipe inlet?