• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

19 Good

About JanZverina

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    San Diego CA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks all for your advice and expertise -- very much appreciated! I had some time to fiddle around with with this yesterday and it looks like it was a stuck float. I poured in some fresh gas and gently tapped the rear of the carb on both sides. Ran it on the fast cam and let it fully warm up to normal idle. I also pinched the inlet hose a couple times. It took longer than I expected for the stutter to happen but I could feel the fuel surge. I'll keep an eye on things going forward. Thanks again!
  2. Last weekend (June 1/2) I took my '63 out for a spin after letting it sit about 4 weeks (bad me), and it had trouble keeping the choke operating in the cold position, where the front butterfly is open about 1/8th inch or so (this is San Diego). It was also hard starting after a partial refuel and running some errands. Yesterday it started on the fast idle cam fairly quickly but a n initial check under the hood showed the carb and surrounding manifold to be pretty wet with gas. I shut it down and let it sit for a few hours before mopping things up. No fuel line/hose leaks that I could see, and I'm also going to check if the plugs were fouled. The carb was completely rebuilt about two years ago by a rebuilding service recommended by BCA and has worked fine other than needing a small needle adjustment early on. Any ideas as to what I should start checking for from any experts out there? Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi Rich, You'll note from the engine pix I recently sent you of my Teal Mist/White Leather '63 that I upgraded to a 1967 style dual master cylinder but kept the drum brakes all around. It's not on your side of the country, but I had the factory booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey at https://www.yelp.com/biz/power-brake-booster-exchange-portland They are highly recommended. It's important that you have him send you that correct square cut O-ring as mentioned earlier in this thread.
  4. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mastercraft-tires?N=4294879428 Pick the size closest to what you want. I have them on my '63 Riv and they're just fine and worth every dollar. Order 5 and be done with it.
  5. Does anyone know if the silver-only tri-shield centers for the standard wheel covers are being reproduced, or if anyone has a good set of four for sale? Thanks!
  6. Hi Terry, Please post this in the Riviera Owners Association section of this forum. You'll get some immediate answers.
  7. Some interesting comments... https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2019/02/buy-drive-burn-classic-luxury-coupes-from-1963/#more-1659682
  8. I had the same issue with a new Delco voltage regulator so it isn't always corrosion.
  9. I think we may have covered all the major food and drink groups! Anyone know of a Riviera brand refrigerator or cupboard?
  10. Being a first-gen Riv owner I don't usually weigh in on later Rivs, but kudos to Vanguard for the video and all the photos. No doubt it's a nice example. But as far as I know, GS or not, the 71s and 72s are those that typically bring the higher $$ in such condition (not $80K). I compare this to cars in my other vintage world, where the Series 1 E-type Jaguars trump the Series 2 and Series 3 models all day long. IMO, someone poured a lots of $$ into getting Riv up to this level, and is now seeking a return on his/her investment, which is their prerogative. But there's a a saying in the vintage car world that says one did not over pay - they just bought too early. Still, at $80K, that wait from "too early" may be a long time in coming . AFAIK, the 73's fat front bumper is a negative given the much more pure lines of the 71 or 72. Just my 2c.
  11. Thanks, Ed. That's what I don't quite understand unless it has to do w/ride height, which has to be nominal given the delta in the two PSI levels.
  12. For a novice to the vintage car world, the best advice I can offer is this: BRING ALONG A GOOD MECHANIC AND MAKE IT WORTH HIS TIME & EFFORT. Have him also check for rust and corrosion. If you pay him $100-$200 for his time but he says look at another car, consider that a great investment. You just saved yourself thousands, if not more!
  13. Let me throw out one more question to all of you gents. Since I lowered my tire pressure to 24 psi from ~32 with good results in rise, would that drop affect the front end alignment? My alignment guy offers a no-charge follow-up so that's not an issue. As JohnRex suggests, should I also have him add some positive caster with the radials now set at 24 psi? I apologize for not being fully up to snuff on this subject.
  14. Hi jframe, I'll leave it to the members who are more knowledgeable than myself to respond, but as far as I know, lower than recommended PSIs on radials will shorten tire life. But with most vintage cars, it's not miles but time that dictates the life of a tire.
  15. Thanks everyone for your input - all very interesting and full of useful tips. This weekend I lowered the TPs to 24 PSI front/ 26 rear. It made a pretty substantial difference in both ride smoothness and whatever steering feel large cars had half a century ago. I guess I always thought radial tires should be run at higher PSIs. Rodney, I can believe that new seat cushions definitely factor into the rise/comfort equation. That's on my list. The next big project is door skins off to chase some window rattles and make sure everything is good before I install a full rubber kit for the front and rear side glass including vent window seals, fuzzies, and everything else. Got them from Rubber the Right Way which is only a couple miles for me, but as mentioned elsewhere on this forum they also source from Steele and SoffSeal. Will take some pix when that project gets underway. Thanks again - the participation on this forum is outstanding!