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About AURktman

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  • Birthday 10/16/1973

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    Auburn, AL

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  1. AURktman

    Primer sealer

    I use epoxy primer over bare metal, then a urethane high build primer, then a urethane sealer, then my single stage urethane. I’m sure others use something different (or maybe similar) but that’s what I use.
  2. I’ve looked at it too, but I can’t justify buying a compressor that is 3x the price plus shipping for a regular compressor. I can make the regular piston compressor very quiet for less than $1000. I would pay $1000, but not $2050 including shipping.
  3. There is a company in Oregon I believe that restores them. That’s where I’m sending my booster for my 60 Bonneville when this car show season is over.
  4. A friend of mine just acquired a nearly complete and nearly rust free 1938 Desoto Deluxe Sedan S5. It has everything EXCEPT the transmission. It has the bellhousing, but he needs the transmission. I have checked Hemmings and some other places, but I figured if any place would have someone with one, it would be here. Please PM me if you have one or a lead on someone that does. Thanks! Eldon
  5. I had problems with the relay on the bottom of the steering column that controls the turn signal (different thread) and finally got the new relay installed. Works perfectly! Dash indicators, front and rear lights work, all is right in the turn signal world once again! I also adjusted the idle screw so it so it wouldn’t die at stoplights after it warmed up now that it is spring. I also swapped out the original T3 pass high beam, packaged it up, and stored it for later. New set of Wagner bulbs. Not a lot done, but it keeps the car on the road and to car shows/meets as often as possible.
  6. De Soto, it would be circled in red. It’s the area that the fenders meet the radiator support.
  7. Thanks Bill! I am absolutely torn on the notion of how to proceed on the restoration because of the history behind it. I want to repair and make it as nice as possible, but at the same time I want to keep it as original as possible because it is only original once. I'm only doing critical things to make it drivable and keep it sealed up (new weatherstripping). I had rain coming in when I go caught out in a storm on the way home from a show.
  8. I started before Christmas on the weatherstripping replacement. I started with the trunk and that went well with plenty of material to allow for trimming. Then I moved on to the roof rail weatherstrip. I aligned the new seal to the old one before I removed it. It was a little awkward to determine if everything aligned where the curved edge of the windshield met the door, but it eyeballed ok. I then removed the old one and started placing the new one in the appropriate push pin holes and that is where things went awry. The area in blue was about 1 inch too long from the molded corner at the intersection of the straight piece into the horizontal (blue area) and it was 1 inch too short from that point along the horizontal to the green area. None of the pins lined up, it was truly aggravating. What I will have to do is trim the 1 inch extra on the vertical in the rear and add it in somehow to the center horizontal section. I think a fresh tube of weatherstrip adhesive will be my best friend. Anyone else have this problem?
  9. Looks gorgeous! That is one of the large number of vehicle on my short list to own.
  10. Loving the updates! You're making more progress than I am!
  11. I'm liking this build! Can't wait to see more photos!
  12. Looking fantastic! I bet you're correct on the airflow issue. I would guess there was some recirculation of the exhaust / dirt between the bumper and body causing it to go all over the trunk.
  13. I was pretty sure of that, but the square nature of the sticker was the only factory sticker that matched in shape. I wonder if it was a decal placed by the dealership / service center that Hugh scraped off. Is there anything that went there other than the Caution sticker?