ArticiferTom

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About ArticiferTom

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/17/1956

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    N.E.Pa.
  • Interests:
    Dodge UF-10
    Civil War Artillery

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  1. A little confused . Is the venturi out ? It has a brass rivet in side thur casting . Then must be pulled out not pressed . A pic will help .
  2. Can you post better pic of lock up at split . Is it hinged or separate . Also your location ,maybe a loaner can be had .
  3. I'm going with mid to latter 30's . headlights on fenders , Door lock s in window profile ?? Tires , headlight and roof make it seem earlier ,though .
  4. You may be miss reading the lower N as the beginning of a word . If the cap was rolled other way . It is last letter of the word . It could be second or first word .
  5. I have another thats 2-1/2 x 24or6 tpi , I think Ford .
  6. GGoing good ! How do you put beads in tube tires? Some just bubble balance and edge spin to make sure even set to rim to wheel . Your oil pressures look ok . What weight oil ? Some use 10-30 , I like 15-40 , and others use straight weights . Lots of opinions on that subject . Most will run a detergent if motor was rebuild and it has been used . Just change more often . Assume you have no filter .
  7. I have one for my Dodge 2-3/8 x 16 tpi . Your welcome to use it , In Drums Pa . A search in this forum should bring up the often posted list of sizes and # 's .
  8. What the business name on side ? Would be great to see if still around .
  9. Great x 3 ! Well your way ahead if you drive it already . Do not be detered with 6 volt . It was done to keep cost down in it's day . When it comes to wire size just double for six volt . Do not know if it is pos or neg ground . That can get a little more confusing . Also as six volt needs larger wires ,it needs CLEANER connection, that are tight . Most problems occur there . Enjoy .
  10. Do a search in Tech . on freeing seized engine at very lest mmo or other in cylinders and pre-pressurize oil system even with a hand suction pump will get something in bearing . May want to drop pan first if it did not have oil in , or has water in it is a rebuild . TAKE it slow ,ask for help when needed , hate to see a vintage old engine go to waste .
  11. Is a tenon cutter but more likely for wheel spokes . They started with a cone cutter to center and finished with tenon cutter . it cut against to grain to make spoke to length after being driven to hub .
  12. Yeah , 31plymouth the cone i have is from a DRT maybe 181 model it is number 58A-34 . They all look to be the same . Where are the slots you see ? I wonder if number diff as to do with vacuum release strength of spring inside cone or something . If your interested in trading one of your 38's for a 34 . Since you say from 209's .
  13. Hello BB and all , man time flies . Well after my initial start up .by enlarging jet hole only . And the problem BB and Broker-Len had with fuel consumption ie running maybe rich . I decided to finish the idle tube mod to spec by reducing the economizer jet down two drill sizes . The carb had to come off anyway ,as i had noted intake and exhaust leaks at manifold . So had to order gaskets and then hand planed manifolds to within 20thou . A warp was most of my leak . Also added ferrules to exhaust tubes . Next was the leak at the exhaust pipe ,then at the clamps . I never had a tailpipe . Muffler had turn down on exit just behind cab . So decided to hand bend tailpipe and fab OEM tailpipe hanger . Finished that and was hating to take carb idle tube out again since it needed to be sealed with Seal-all every time . So new plan envolved something to fix that . So first reduced constricted area ,(economizer) which stretched length a tenth inch . Before cutting found out by dry fitting , was never going to work . A inspection with 10x eye loop show where it was drilled out and not straight either . Solution , mill to 1/4" and install with o-rings . beautiful . Seals and removable . Back together and weather turns cold till now . So Sunday started . And it was harder starting . probability because of leaner . Full choke barely helped . Why ? Because same gypsy removed the choke system components . All was left is sliding new solid cone . So once it was warmed test ride was good . Ran quieter , because of exhaust repairs and carb preformed as good as my Zenith . Maybe nicer on acceleration . Next job ,after a few honey due projects is modify standpipe and install missing choke system ie two springs , brass sleeves and ring ,cone with vacuum internal release , and standpipe chimney slide shut off . Got these parts off ebay parts carb DRT181 , I think . I'll keep you posted . Anyone have a choke cone from 209 , would be interested if there are numbers on it . Number mine is little different then spec . sheet ? What a project ,err . Nice to be retired and quarantined .
  14. Your getting there . Better put a nylon stocking in or filter on top radaitor pipe before starting . Do not want a block their . Also will clean a lot when it starts running .