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ArticiferTom

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About ArticiferTom

  • Rank
    1k+ Senior Member
  • Birthday 05/17/1956

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    N.E.Pa.
  • Interests:
    Dodge UF-10
    Civil War Artillery

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  1. Go find your local re-enactment group and buy there wall tent or replace there aged / seasoned one for them . It will give you some nice duck natural material . Also look at there old gum blankets and painted straps .
  2. Block looks good must be Riverview 😉. Nice work .
  3. The long rod tie across behind tires ,has the tie rod ends . They screw in and out to adjust . Measure up from flat level surface about mid tire height in front and back . Should be between 1/16" - 1/8" toed in , front . You may find you only need to loosen both rod , jam nuts . As most had one right and one left hand threaded . So just turning rod like a turnbuckle . will move it . Spec will be in your manual . My '31 is spec i gave you and pretty much general rule .
  4. Yes, Do a search for Clum Switch wiring . Depends on your switch number . Do in DB section first . Most near same . First test wire most are bad that's why there disconnected . They get twisted to and fo in column and wear thur . It should ground only when button pushed . So ground while turning wheel . It is replaceable . It will hook to terminal that is not number 1 (main power ) but returns from horn . Good luck .
  5. Thanks Don and Dave . At moment I am not having to do any thing . Per write up in Tech forum . was able to reduce slack back to it's manageable 3/4" from 4-1/2 " . The problem was feeling the adjustment . By disconnecting the drag link from pitman , was able to feel each adjustment in pitman movement . and wheel . So work it out . I will in future be chasing down one because it is worn equal in worm mesh . I also found a number on casting . Do not know if you have them on yours , curious .. C18358 or B ,not sure on end ,was using mirror .
  6. Found some spare parts if needed . Also got adjustment made . Found disconnecting the drag link from pitman . That and loosening all adjustments made redo much easier .
  7. Look at George's site www.customhubpullers.com ,he makes the best .
  8. There is no rubber in mine . but front attachment is brass bush . You may need one cut, mine was fine and got other good one from used spring assembly . I bought for broken main, replacement . The shackles are harder to come by pic up some used to replace a bad housing . The wearable part the pins are sold on W>O>K> club site . Also Filling Station sell some sizes and springs . Bolts Are on ebay Thompson products .
  9. Getting ready to remove to repair mine in UF truck these are crosses I know of . Want to be ready if needed . Thanks all . May even just put a good one on and spare mine . Thanks Tom
  10. I am doing my '31 Dodge UF10 with Warner steering box . Have BOI and jacked up truck and freed dash bracket . But can not get a lose feel on column adjustment . Do i need to loosen the other two adjustments first ?? Others a little easier . But my adjustment gave no improvement , maybe worst . Anyone have spare parts or box if needed ?
  11. My mistake . That was to total remove the springs . Just did my Dodge 31 last month . Check the front rod pin for correct tension . Found all my components over tightened .
  12. You have it right . Jack stands , Diff floor jack , Loosen ALL points , then remove rear shackles . Remove front bolt/rod ,then place jack under spring and loosen off .
  13. Looks good . I favor oil on springs . Having just redone mine and pre 27 Mechanic's Manual says every 2000miles oil. The bolts your dealing with are the spring leaf center pin , 7/16" x 24 tpi fine thread . These are ready available in US at NAPA type stores . The cross bolts are 7/16 x 18 standard x 3" . All bolts are installed the where cut flush with bolt cutters . Hence your snarly end , then penned to prevent loosening .
  14. Sorry , never had them on when I got them for the drums .
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