Joao46

It’s 2-3/4”.

I think it really depends on the vehicle’s weight. I have driven on the highway for many hours with lower pressures and had no problem. It weighs 1800 lb. Here is a factory tire placard.

Please send photo and asking price if to have a brake shoe return spring for a 1931 Chrysler Imperial or similar.

Need 2 Rear threaded dust caps, 2-3/4 “ OD.

CG has a 3 bolt cover.

My 65 Karmann Ghia recommended less than 20 psi on the front tires and it had bias ply tires from the factory. I don’t think it was meant to have ‘no less the 30’ on its front tires. Even if radials.

Thanks. Actually I removed the plate that the valve is mounted on from the manifold and it was missing. So that’s that. It looks like from the design that the valve is only used to redirect exhaust to the bottom of the intake when closed. When open it does not seem to do anything as it is parallel to the exhaust flow so if it’s missing there should be no effect.

So one last question, should I also replace the original female tee and 90 degree fittings?

Hi folks! Does anyone have pictures of what a 1931 Chrysler Imperial manifold heater control valve looks like? My vehicle is missing it and I doubt I’ll ever find one, so I’m trying to decide if I even need it to be present. It is manually activated from the dash and according to the owners manual it’s only to be used in winter. Since this car is only used in warm weather, I’ll never use it but I’d like to know how it works to determine if it still needs to be present to block exhaust from heating the carb when it’s ‘off’. thanks !

I’ve just tried a double flare line with a modern SAE nut on the old fitting and at least half of all the threads on the nut engaged. The difference in thickness of the flare from single to double is not that much. Could it be a Franklin issue and not a Chrysler issue?

Thanks. Why anneal it? Has anyone ever used double flares in cars originally using single flares and had problems with not enough thread engagements?

Hi folks. Ive see discussions on galvanic corrosion on wheel cylinders resleeved with stainless and pistons made of aluminum. I just had mine sleeved with brass and the pistons made from stainless. They are all assembled and ready to go but they used brake fluid as assembly lube. Would it be advisable to disassemble, wipe off the brake fluid and coat the sleeves with brake assembly grease before reassembly? If so, wouldn’t the assembly grease, which has silicone, cause problems with the Dot 3 fluid in the same way that Dot3 is not compatible with Dot 5, which is silicone based? So if it turns out it’s recommended to use assembly grease, any recommendations of brand? Thanks!

Hello. I’ve replaced brake hoses on my 31 Chrysler and found that although the metal lines are modern , some connections are single flared and some double flared. Were single flares common in pre war cars? For safety, I’m thinking of making all connections double flare. Any thoughts?

If they need replacement, what grade should I use

Hi Folks! I just had my wheel cylinders rebuilt. They will use the original bolts to mount them to the backing plate. Should I reuse them and of not , what grade should I use?