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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. The 2 - 3/8 one is cut about 2.313 to 2.375 with .007 tapper / in .
  2. I used blue RTV on my pitted radiator connections . Seals well and still will come off fairly easy . Sealed with even two wire prewar clamps .
  3. Try over at 28Q29U Plymouth site of Chet's . Lots of model specific info there .
  4. It may take a little more . My truck small UF takes 3 -1/4 pints . Fill to bottom of hole . I personally go 1/4" less . Remember your filling the bottom of taper on axle also . i also use 140 wt book states 160 wt . just looked up other DB/GB trucks that take up to 6 quarts .Also of 600w Mobiloil C or equivalent . Sorry not a very direct answer . just show could be anything . The common is bottom of hole for level to keep it out of wheel bearings .
  5. Simple Green or maybe Purple Power or even Dawn . Any should work if not over foaming . Certainly none of products should have ill effects on your cooling system , all are mild .
  6. The evaporust will be of little good since you already oiled the rust . You will first need to remove oils so it can work .
  7. What brand carb and last rebuild ?
  8. Tractor Supply's has it . Double Ott lube is in soft bottle pointed end , squeeze in . Also sold by Rotary on ebay or some lawn tractor shops is used in the rear transmissions.
  9. It's a beauty .. Your location will help . reading and do search on wanted subject, in restoration section , will yield lots of info for you . Make sure to get some fresh oil pressurized in the system before cranking .And draw your fuel from a remote test tank . 100 0/0 of old tanks are rusty . These are some of the tips you well find . Good luck and ask as many question as needed .
  10. AH ! The Terminator engine . Someday it willll,be back ...
  11. Great to hear you got the car out . I assume you got brakes a straighten out and working well . Not sure on crank never dealt with that .
  12. The correct puller , I fear would put to much pressure on fragile fractured composite . A homemade of same design, further damaged mine . So decide to drill as others have . Worked easy . I do like your pic of push rod ends . Had to use the nut and various washers to protect threads and give push surface . In background of my pic you see another wheel with whole center broke out and metal inside sawed to split . It was donor steering unit so was not trying to save . Had I used drill tap . I think I may had been able to save . Is was fairly rusted on though .
  13. I actually pulled the whole gear box through cowl . But require removing clutch pedal and floor and brake master party and a little religion . If was to do over and did not have engine pans in . Would drill and tap to pull while in vehicle . You could draw column only out . But require splitting gear box in place no so good for reinstall . See PS on above post
  14. Thanks . I meant the second rod is over the first and on my truck controls the throttle . I attach some pics of my pulling . You can see how broke my wheel was . Drilled 1" deep blind 1/4 x 20 tapped holes . Used simple puller came right off . The Q-bond comes with black and grey powder . I first glue tight cracks . The super glue sucked right in . Then did cracks , building a little at time . Decide to stop short of top for effect to show original patina . The wheel is solid now . The build up goes quick, as glue sets in 5 to 7 seconds . Add powder using fine tools and drip glue on wait 10 s
  15. Can not tell if you have an outer wire tube . If so need to release it at bottom also . Note wheel maybe be on harder than you think . Found it easier to drill and tap steering wheel for modern puller . The pulling on the plastic fractored the wheel . I repair nicely with Q-bond system .
  16. I believe the prior install was to prevent static discharge to the vehicles electronics .😄
  17. Sorry to here that . Hopefully others will have some pics and be able to help .
  18. Should have letters same size ,i believe . Here is pic of '32 F-10 .
  19. Look at ebay " vintage fuel pump BC " . you will see at least two BC which looks to be associated in late models with Airtex . But there are two different style arms one AC type lever the other spring plunger type . Also under filter bowl glass remove brass screen, may show a casting or model number .
  20. Did you check all over that fuel pump for numbers ,letters or date codes . May not be AC to hard to see in pic . Check angle edge above mounting flange to engine for etched numbers (not stamped ) . Can be hard to read .
  21. Pics and numbers would be a help . there was a thread this Winter with a few mopar rad's for sale .
  22. Some on here was just looking for one . is it 4 or 6 cyl .
  23. I would go to opposite side, that is never seen . Cut hole , than make gasket and cover for it like modern tank . This will give cleaning and inspection access also .
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