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ArticiferTom

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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. Here is a pic . Not sure if matches . But note number 5 relief hole .
  2. Do you have book Of Information for it with diagrams ?
  3. My truck system was dried out and rusted like yours ended up doing all . Plus last was that tiny compensating hole . Could not even see it, had to drill clear with number bit .
  4. Only other is compensating hole leading down in MC . Not allowing fluid to refill after pump, of pedal . This is smaller of two holes to refill chamber .
  5. There is hoses on all lines . When one dries out usually all do . Rear are on same one at axle .
  6. Collapsed flex hoses maybe problem . Disconnect at head of each to check flow .
  7. Check the back for API label if it list any letter sets starting in S . that means gas , C is diesel . Rotella T3and T4 should have SN rating . https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/718f5851-4880-43db-95a1-bbf45aeaca8f.pdf.
  8. Might the chlorine be a little to corrosive if it gets damp ? I would use bait boxes first . but usually avoid because of local cats . Just keep traps with peanut butter around . .
  9. A ceiling fan running all the time . it mixes temperature and humidity to it's lowest state in that environment . Lessens condensation . I use electric for heat to help keep air dry .
  10. Not exactly sure on '33's but Radiators prior years are non -pressurized system . That seal is on cap to keep fluid from getting on surround and hood . If you look you will probably see over flow tube is below cap seal . As opposed to modern ones between seal and top cap with it's spring pressure regulator . Most of time systems are just over filled if water is not coming boiling out . The level is between top of core and cap . You may have a metal deflector in yours to prevent rush from engine splashing . If you have it just coming over that low spot on mine it works good . If boiling is
  11. Ride'n home from the car show today in N>E>Pa . Cloudy but pretty .
  12. My BOI describes installing universal joint flange on to pinion splines until it's rear face ,contacts bearings front face . The universal joint flange is then locked rigidly in place by the nut on the front end . Since Broker found his finger tight and I found mine loosen, with the weight of my 3/4" breaker bar and socket ,just touching it . It does not need much more then , firmly , or a touch ,a skoch , finger weight .LOL.
  13. I would say it looks good too . Probably why they look a lot like Dodges . The Dodge trucks of that era where build by Graham Brothers co . The brothers left that company to WPC and formed up with Paige .
  14. Thanks , No I have my original on the truck with a modern core 1980's but together with original tanks and shroud . Just looking for someone sitting on some wall art , bad core radiator to use s a donor . As you see from pic this radiator rusted out the steel on bottom and damaged some of tank . But top was above ground and protected by the shell which is not pictured . It appears very salvageable .
  15. Looking to resurrect this original Fedders radiator , for my Dodge UF . Believe most shrouds of 30- 31 -32 Mopars to be similar . This is not the shell but part of radiator .
  16. No , not that easy . The '31 4 cylinders did not have . I have also seen taps in side corner driver side . Mine they used old coolant siphon hole cap and brazed in tap . On in side brazed tap in elbow reduction pipe from bottom radiator to water pump inlet .
  17. No , meesies up here Bhigdog . But three weeks ago , the wife caught 5 snakes, on the front porch and myself two in house in one day . How do they know when it is time to come in . Cats enjoys snakes more , not as fast I guess .
  18. Yes , Henry and my horns and seen a few others are the same .That pancake horn on earlier cars was mounted out on headlight bar . My bar still carries mount holes from production . They where moved inside, assume did not handle weather well out there . And latter used bugle style horns . The oil filters maybe found factory on larger cwt trucks . Dave may chime in knowing more on 3/4 , 1 tonners .
  19. Dried out or unpainted wheels need raw linseed oil . The boiled will harden and seal pores . You need to continually add raw until will not absorb any more . That should swell wood best it will get for years . unless baked out in sun . It is also going to darken color , but can be painted over with oil based paint .
  20. Fused base on wire size . my truck with one horn is 20 amp . Did have trouble with horn internal at one time . Solder joint loss and would ground out .
  21. On the drain . They would probable want just a grease trap if you bring it out to surface and not dump in storm sewer with you probable do not have . And the floor thickness is not for the weight of lift and load . It is for holding the anchors . I would do minimum 6 " pad in those areas . The drilling and driving anchors will be much easier and allow for opp's . I know this because ,I help a friend cut holes next to his leg where driving anchors broke bottom out. We then hand tunneled over to nut /bolt a plate . And patch floor . Next time he would do nothing less then 8" . Of
  22. Go find your local re-enactment group and buy there wall tent or replace there aged / seasoned one for them . It will give you some nice duck natural material . Also look at there old gum blankets and painted straps .
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