Gunsmoke

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Gunsmoke last won the day on July 15 2018

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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946

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  1. Aw, now the issue has deflected (don't politicians usually do that!) to the general subject of keeping old tires in use. When I bought my 1931 Chevrolet Deluxe Coach 11 years ago as a barn/garage find, it had not run since it was somewhat rebuilt (poorly) in 1967. But it wore a brand new set of 6 Goodyear 4.75-5.00x19 tires purchased in 1967 by a PO, tires which had never seen the road (and I assumed new tubes). As a precaution, I took one of the sidemount spare wheels to the local Goodyear dealer who had only one comment "Throw them away". Non-plussed, and having carefully examined them (they were soft, no cracks, tubes held air 100%), I decided to put off the decision. Restored the car and in 2013 I got it back on the road for first time in 46 years. Have driven it ever since on the now 53 year old tires without a single issue in about 1500 miles. I keep the car out of the sun as much as possible, a real threat to rubber, and don't get the car over 35/40MPH. Now don't get me wrong, this is just my experience and does not suggest anyone should ignore the age of tires. My advice is keep an eye on and take good care of your tires regardless of their age, always be aware of where you're going and how fast, and and keep them properly inflated. Worst thing for old tires is if they are allowed to sit "flat" for a long time which causes sidewalls to crack on flat area. Happy Motoring.
  2. i think I will take the advice given and get shoes relined. Will look for a local option, have a friend (retired mechanic) who has done it years ago, may try him.
  3. Thanks for all the excellent advice. I have 8 wheel cylinders and will pick the best 4 (fronts are larger dia than rears). All are decent, and a friend and I honed them very slightly, i.e. de-glazed them. I bought NORS rubber seals/springs and new NORS boots, both in very good rubber (there are some cheapies out there!). I also have a NOS master cylinder but it is slightly oxidized and will need some minor honing, also have a new kit for it. The Master cylinder has the original style vent on top. Hope to get at this job next week, have 1/4" steel lines ready to go, and have thoroughly cleaned all the original special brass fittings. First time I have restored a hydraulic brake system, my '31 Chevrolet was so much easier, just a bunch of rods, cables and clevis pins! I also have 8 sets (16 shoes) of original brake shoes/linings, only 6 shoes are usable as is. The rest suffer from oil absorption, likely from failed wheel cylinders at some point in the past. A friend suggested putting the oily shoes in a camp fire for 2 hours and all the oil product would be burned off? Anyone ever done that? I have read some of the advice on fitting shoes to drums, clearances, etc. Again, first time for me to do a full brake job, so I expect it will take at least a month to complete.
  4. For my 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster project rebuild, I opted for a Carter YF (recommended interchange by Carbking) that I understand was original spec for 300CI Ford trucks circa 1969. It fit manifold and linkage perfectly, with exception of slight modification to carb end of linkage and very slight oblonging of mounting holes in carb base, even takes the original "helmet style" air cleaner (with a short adapter). Engine (240CI) had not been run for 40-50 years and after some cleaning up, valve work etc, ran like a charm with this setup. I bought the Carter YF on eBay as a NOS unit, circa $250. A properly restored original carb for this model would likely sell circa $2000, and not likely work as well. I still have some work to do on this engine, but plan to stay with the Carter.
  5. Thanks SP for the advice and lead to the article on fluids. Since car will likely never see rain, moisture permeation should not be an issue. However, I may decide to use the modern hoses and save the NOS for someone who wants to be "concours conscious"'! Some of the old wheel cylinder rubber boots looked like they had been badly eroded/eaten by some PO's fluid choice. But I am replacing all seals, lines and boots, and honing the cylinders/master so should be able to get a reliable system. Cheers
  6. I'm restoring a 1931 Chrysler CD8 and needed the 3 pieces of 18" flex brake hose, 2 for the front wheels and 1 to go to rear axle union. Found/bought a 3 piece repo set on ebay (Mopar-Direct, Andy B), and also found a pair of NOS hoses on ebay which I also bought (see photo of one of each). I noted that the new set was advertised as "made with modern materials". That got me thinking that there have probably been changes/improvements in materials and brake fluids over the 90 years, and that the older hoses may not stand up to modern fluids. I was advised to use Dot 1 fluid if I was going to use the 2 NOS hoses (they look more original on exposed front wheel locations and I also am using NOS rubber seals I have for the 4 wheel cylinders), and that Dot 2 might also be OK. But not to use modern Dot 3 fluid with these old rubber products (silicone content?). This is a new area of expertise for me, can someone confirm the best practice if I elect to use the NOS hoses?
  7. $0.00 would be a good deal IMHO. Unlikely anything there of "parts" value more than $200.00, so by the time someone unearths it and hauls it home and dismantles it, I'd be surprised if there is any potential to get your money back. If someone wants to make an old truck, there are lots of much better rolling chassis out there for circa $1000-$1500.
  8. I'd start with a thread chaser/die, any good machine shop should have one that size, and you appear to have 2-3 good threads to get it started. I've always been amazed at how a good die can correct such damage, and the main advantage is they do not alter pattern and avoid filing off excess material. A split die would be even better, but I doubt you would will find one that large. I had some poor/damaged threads on the ends of several of my 9/16" fine thread shock bolts. I cut a corresponding nut in half and clamped it on the threads with a vice grip (not too tight just able to turn), with bolt in my vise, and amazing how it cleaned things up. Machine shops have those long heavy duty handles to make the job easier.
  9. Appears to have mid-Twenties Bullnose Morris rad shell, the cantilevered rear spring treatment also suggest possible British roadster type chassis. Like many racers of the day, original builder may have started with an idea and built it from what was readily available or could be assembled with some basic mechanical and welding skills.. Nice project.
  10. Script looks like Jackson, but fenders not perfect match for 1913 Jackson I see on-line.
  11. Interesting gadget, I gather as the original column bushing wore and play developed at top end of column, this "exterior mount felt bushing" would tighten things up a bit. Really!! Also might be able to make steering stiffer generally. Really! Little wonder never used. Oh, and the "save on gas" by keeping you in a straighter line! Really!. I imagine Ford didn't appreciate the aftermarket company using the Ford name in its packaging. Wonder if anyone actually used this device I have never before seen? Maybe the posting recently on "death wobble' should recommend one of these as a solution. LOL
  12. It's the old "Queen Anne front" and "Mary Ann Back" adage. While no doubt the workmanship and effort is there, it remains a big misfit, 2 different styles, 2 different eras, 2 different functions (car or truck), who would ask for this? That Stude nose was never a hit in the late 40's/early 50's, still not. Thus the price!
  13. Interesting car in trees in background, looks about 1929/30, perhaps Chevrolet or Model A Ford.
  14. I cannot tell from your ask if these are (1) "sidemount hardware" (designed to secure the spare in place) or (2) a fender wheel well support bracket (designed to add extra support for the spare), or (3) part of an accessory spare wheel locking or clamping system. Picture in place would help. My Chrysler CD8 for example has twin sidemounts. The fender in addition to the wheelwell has 4 steel pieces on underside in that area to brace wheelwell to frame and accept hardware connections and locking mechanism. The side-mount hardware has the usual clamp & leather straps coming out of side of cowl, but also has a 6"clamp&wingnut on back side of wheel and a lock and bar going thru wheel spokes from outside of wheel and into a reinforced hole in wheel well. So a pic of what your part does may help. Based on 2 small holes and larger end hole, this looks like some sort of "securing" bar to receive a vertical side-mount rod or locking bolt, but purpose of 2 small holes is a mystery, and there does not appear to be any purpose to the S curved end except to perhaps insert into a locking hole. Make of Car? Why 6 of them?
  15. A wee bit of gender bias there Marty, just sayin'! But always enjoy your input to the forums.