Gunsmoke

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Gunsmoke last won the day on July 15 2018

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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946

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  1. I have a spare good 1931 CD8 Speedometer, paid US$250 for it, may be same as you're looking for. Let me know if interested. I also have a good intake and exhaust manifold from a 1930 Dodge DC8, as far as I can see, same setup as Chrysler 8's (in fact I had it on my Chrysler until I found a correct one., has butterfly gate valve etc. Heavy item to ship? Intake is stamped Dodge Brothers.
  2. hmmm....I am restoring a '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster (8 cyl car), and while I don't know just how much of the specs are the same here goes. (1)The CD8 had adjustable steering 80 years before it became common on modern cars! It has a 3 position adjustment bracket for steering column, hidden up behind the dash as shown in photo allowing height/angle to be changed as desired. On the CD8's, the steering box (shown) is not bolted directly to the frame but rather fits into a clamp style bracket (photo showing red rag in hole) that allows steering column to be easily moved up and down, thereby allowing clearance between steering wheel and seat to accomodate "fat" people!! LOL. Actually it is not fat people so much as long legged people who typically have their knees hitting the steering wheel. (2) If your car does not have these features, and like the CD8 the bench seat is not adjustable, moving the wheel forward (shortening the column) will make things worse as it will put the wheel even closer to the seat. (3). What I have seen others do in mild "hot-rodding" is change the angle of the steering column (usually they want to make it lower). This can be done by modifying the dash column bracket to raise steering wheel to desired location, and "oblonging' the bolt holes for the steering box to allow it to rotate upwards 5 degrees or so. Not an easy fix, but...... So there are some options, if your car is not fitted with the adjustment common to mine.
  3. From an anthropomorphics point of view (now there's a big word), settling into the Roadster seat is easier without the running board. The tall door clearance on the sedans and theeir high seat, made the RB necessary/usable and practical. The folding top (when up) on a Roadster is very low, and so you need to crouch down when using the RB as your launch point. The pictured Imperial roadster avoids this by allowing the person to get very close to the seat and simply sit down and swing your feet into the footwell, much like a modern sports car. Anyway, I'm still on the fence on the RB's, but do plan to drop the chassis 2". I've also considered a custom "step plate"' on each side although that will interfer with the "get close and sit" objective.
  4. I have 3 spare distributors with clips, bought them for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 project. I have a Solar Spark unit on car, other 3 are Delco Remy. All use these same clips, measure about 1.25". What car are you using them on? If you want one, $5, pair for $10, plus shipping, a guy has to make a living!! Would also part with one of the distributors if you need one, 2 are dual points, one is single points. I'm using a single points unit in my car. Send me a PM if interested.
  5. Thanks for comments, making a decision on running boards is well down the road, one of the factors being I only have one original RB for driver's side (with the built-in ribs it would be tough to replicate a 2nd one. If I go without RB's, plan would be to make a 3rd bracket for very rear of front fender, and modify the back end of fender to curve more gracefully in towards body. Also would be modifying the side apron. Might also make a bracket for lead edge of rear fender. I've seen some '31's done this way, in particular Imperial Roadsters such as this picture below. Anyway, for now, it is just a possibility. As for the drop, I plan this week to test fit everything and measure all the clearances and ride height, thinking a 2" drop will be final fix! Spoke to spring shop today, only aboput $100Can for re-arcing both fronts (about $70USD). They have about 3" arc now, shop said they could take it all out if desired. Then a simple drilled block and castor shim for rear. While I agree illlustration looks perhaps a bit too low, clearly the illustrators/designers were going for a low rakish look.
  6. I enclose an illustration from 1931 advertizing for the Chrysler CD8 Roadster, indicating what I figure the designers and the company wanted the stance to look like, at least from a marketing point. The body lies very low, with fender lips overlaping the tires, and running board perhaps 10" above ground level. I also include a contemporary factory photo showing the car riding much higher, running board perhaps 15" above ground, likely due to the engineers sorting out need for lots of suspension clearance for the rough roads of the day, etc. I would like to lower the body somewhat as I move forward with the rebuild, perhaps 1.5"-2" if doable. Plan would be to place blocks between rear axle and springs to lower rear, and to de-arc the front springs by same amount. Blocks in rear would be tapered to ensure correct angle is maintained for rearend in relation to rest of drivetrain. I have everything off chassis at the moment so anything is doable. I am considering deleting the need for running boards for a more stylish look, something that some custom coachbuilders of the day did. Any thoughts?
  7. I have the rearend out of my CD8 Roadster project at this very moment and have been pondering carrying out all these same rebuilds, seals, wheel cylinders, vent etc. So this post is timely and helpful, also provides sources for the bits. Thanks for posting.
  8. After doing a test start on my '31 Chrysler CD8 engine, I've pulled it from the car and sent chassis for sandblasting. Chassis is very solid, straight, with some pitting in a few spots, will paint this week. Pulled off wheels & brake drums, and all miscellaneous brackets, lines etc. Next come axle assemblies, but will need some heat, all the U-bolt nuts are seized solidly after 90 years. I also got the bumpers sandblasted and epoxy primed. They were pretty rusty and bent, I'm undecided if I will eventually chrome them or finish in some other way. Steering box is excellent, no play and clum switch is perfect. When you disassemble a car like this you need a whole warehouse just to store the 1000's of parts.
  9. Thanks Spinney, that post is very helpful. I will plan to carefully disassemble one and see what's what. They may just need a refresh and some new fluid.
  10. Hope you catch the bug real bad!!! Never too late in my experience, remember, some of it is your natural instincts, some of it nurture, and sounds like your good friend is paying it forward.
  11. 1912 Staver, we need to be careful not to compare careers with hobbies. Just what type of work/career might at the moment be more financially rewarding does not mean it will be something a person can develop a passion for. A passion for most people is something they draw a great deal of personal satisfaction from. Some business career people may love their work, but I suspect most don't. Same for mechanics, some likely love their work while for others it's just a job. So career and hobby are not usually connected. While there are a few lucky golfers who can do it for a living, for most it is just as a hobby. So as I have said earlier, let's not spin our wheels trying to connect things that don't connect. One thing I will agree on is that the new generation coming along who have a new body of passion (for video games, electronics, Artificial intelligence, instant gratification, etc) may never find themselves in the social environnment or have the patience where the "old car hobby" will rub off on them. Their loss!
  12. I'm afraid MRCVS that you may have bitten off more than all of us can chew. As a starter, current research studies generally conclude that normal human development ultimately evolves from about a 50/50 split between nature and nurture. Our individual DNA contributes to our strengths or weaknesses, and our social/familial environment does as well. So when it comes to a singular interest like "working on or liking old cars", lets assume it is a 50/50 thing. People in my experience who participate are firstly typically "hands-on" types, those who love to use their hands to do things, same types who like to build stuff, take stuff apart, and have an inherent mix of curosity and patience, and also like history. Much of that comes from your DNA. Secondly many come from familial or social situations where there were role models or others who did similar work and they "caught the bug" from watching with "natural amazement" as a mentor accomplished something most people could not. In my own example, I was always a curious and hands-on type from early childhood (building models, making puzzles, taking things apart). Did well in school, university, etc, but always had an interest in old cars? Why? Well my Dad was a mechanic and for many years I watched or was aware of his interest in cars and his ability to make them run (but he was not interested in owning a very old car). During the 1950's and 60', that appeared to me to be a task anyone with patience and hands-on skills could do. While I tinkered with my cars all along during my working career (change the oil, fix small stuff etc), I did not have the time to get into the old car hobby until I retired in 2007. In the past 10 years I have restored one car and am in the middle of another. I suspect every member of AACA has a unique personal story about how they arrived where we all are. While their sense of the mix of nature/nurture may not be 50/50, on balance I would expect the aggregate of all life stories will end there. Yes, financial freedom may make it easier for some, but I know people who never had a "pot to @#%$ in or window to through it through", who got involved in old cars at 16 or 17 and have made a lifetime hobby of it. And I know wealthy buggers who started in their 40's who are more passionate about the hobby than anyone. So my advice MRCVS is to not spend too much time trying to connect dots that are at best likely to be unconnectable. Why you or anyone else has arrived just where you are today is a mix of many many factors, and deciding which 1 or 2 has had the most impact is likely a fools game. ENJOY
  13. These are the 4 Delco Lovejoy Duodraulic shocks from my '31 Chrysler CD8 project. Units have been sandblasted and lever arms are free to turn, some have typical shock resistance, others have little resistance. I've previously rebuilt similar single acting ones for my '31 Chevrolet but am not familiar with these double acting units. They have 2 large screws which I assume access the control "valves" for each piston. Also a small screw I assume is for filling with fluid. Also a large "allen" style end cap. There is also a steel plate affixed with 4 small screws to access end of lever arm shaft (for pressing it our?). Anyone have any info on rebuilding these, know of a source for gaskets/seals/valves etc. Hope to do the rebuild myself if doable. Thanks.
  14. I plan to contach the Hirsch people on Monday and see if they have something close. Unfortunately their on-line site does not show color chips for the wide range of engine enamels they have.