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Gunsmoke

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Gunsmoke last won the day on July 15 2018

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About Gunsmoke

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  • Birthday 03/15/1946

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  1. Rolling chassis is pretty much finished, all rebuilt wheel bearings, rebuilt brakes all around, relined gas tank/new lines, refurbished shocks, springs and have wheels sandblasted and primed. Body rebuild is due back here first week of November to set back on chassis, to be followed by fitting of gauges, seats, interior panels, windshield etc. Once fully reassembled, I'll take for a spin or 2 to check out roadability, and then disassemble for final paint. I'll post some further photos in a few days, stay tuned.
  2. tj1107 Send me a PM indicating just what you want. I have the steering wheel, and the set of control rods shown (one lever is broken at tip), horn button etc, and also the column, shaft and steering box. May also have a clum switch for end of rods. I think $150 plus shipping is fair. Let me know if you want it all and send me your zip code so I can get you a shipping quote.
  3. I have a spare gasoline gauge, water temp gauge (missing bulb at engine end) oil pressure gauge and speedometer for 1931 Chrysler CD8, all with curved glass lenses (some earlier versions had flat glass). I think all are same as for 1932 except speedometer has drum style dial versus hand style used in 1932. The oil pressure gauge shown has 2" bezel with curved glass lens, but internals appear to be from an earlier Chrysler. If interested send me a PM.
  4. A great find, a rare very desirable truck, might look even better if it had a tow hoist originally and one could be reinstalled. I think $10K is low, but as stated, you need at least 2 interested buyers to get top dollar. I would be surprised if some Ford dealership that also focuses on service is not keen on buying it.
  5. Viv wrote "31 Chev had side lights on the crown of the front fenders". No, 1931 standard Chevrolet Independence models had parking lights in the headlights (a 2 bulb system), and Deluxe models had cowl mounted parking lights and a single bulb in headlight buckets. Note Deluxe models also had twin side-mounts and a full length rear bumper. The rad shell grill was not standard on Deluxe models, but only on sport models as standard equipment, but later an accessory which could be added to any 1931 model.
  6. Most likely a car club, thus the CC, could be a specific area club (Skokie Car Club), or a local one model club(Studebaker Car Club) etc.
  7. What do you mean with...cooked the shoes/linings .. The brake linings were in excellent condition (good thickness, even wear, all rivets good etc), but were contaminated to varying degrees with oil of some type, possibly either rear differential oil, or brake fluid from leaking wheel cylinders. Initial plan was to replace them, but several on this site suggested soaking them a few hours in lacquer thinner, and after wiping and drying, "cooking" them in an oven at 400-600 degrees for about 1 hour to burn off any remaining oil/petroleum residue. Seemed to work.
  8. Not sure why an acorn nut is being used? A plain hex nut would give better clearance.
  9. Eric Davidson, the subject of the original posting is legendary around here (Halifax Nova Scotia, Canada) among the old car guys. I've been told he was so familiar with the shapes of cars back in the 40's and 50's that he could walk up to any make and with a few feels with his hand could tell make and year. I was told by an older gent I know that he went to visit Eric at his house and Eric's wife said he was down in the basement assembling a Rolls Royce engine. When the guy walked down the steps he realized Eric was working in the pitch dark. Eric heard him on the steps and supposedly said, th
  10. Axle nut is 3/4x16 castle type. I have a spare if you need one.
  11. Regarding plywood floor boards in general, they should be made so that the grain goes from side to side (frame rail to frame rail) rather than lengthwise (fore and aft). Plywood is much stronger and less likely to flex in the direction of the grain. Like any composite material, the strongest and most stressed layer are the 2 outer skins, so always consider that and direction of grain in making pieces. Just a suggestion for future floor makers.
  12. I have a NOS Dodge Brothers, Six Cylinder, 140 Series, Operation and Care book, 72 pages, first edition, first reprint, mint condition, was purchased at Hershey in early 60's, never used. Can anyone tell me what years and/or models it would be helpful for, i.e. 1928, 1929 etc and specifically if it would cover the 1928 Victory Six models? BTW, asking $50 plus shipping. Thanks
  13. According to the pre 1934 Chrysler master parts list there are at least 12 different radiator shells for Chrysler cars between 1931 and 1933, including difference for 6 cyl versus 8 cyl, Chrysler versus imperial etc. So as suggested, a serial # or picture may help narrow down what might work. While the shells in many cases look very similar, the differences are subtle but problematic for rad neck fit, hood fit, fender fit etc.
  14. Somewhat related experience to share. When restoring my 1931 CD8 Chrysler I needed a good 8cyl block and head etc. Although the Dodge DC8/DG8 and 3 series CD8's used virtually same engines except for piston size (4 versions from 2&7/8 dia to 3.25" dia), I was told heads were interchangeable. I eventually found a good CD8 block (3" pistons) and CD8 head (3" pistons). Head fit block perfectly, and I had a NOS head gasket I had purchased. While bolt pattern, head dimensions, etc was identical when I bolted everything up tight and filled with coolant, could not seal properly. Took back apart t
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