ArticiferTom

Use a mirror to view top of radiator for calcium build up on tube holes ? Can develope if sat for years evaping off . Cleaned mine with CLR and tube brush then back flushed as you thinking .

Maybe a 3" pipe cap drill and tapped for bolt or and nut . Then weld together .

Some numbers I got from George the hub maker where . puller ID 2.313 x 2.375 .007 taper per inch . 2-3/8 x 16 .

To use EZ Pass is nice . Remember you have to keep a balance in it . Which they will auto draw for your bank account or cc . Be sure to watch . Had my unit duplicate or something was paying for some one else use . it was not much and turnpike as been working to correct and see how, last three months . In mean time i keep my unit in aluminum foil per them , to prevent signal , DO NOT turn off remove battery as there is re up charge .

The book on my '31 truck list all fluids on lube charts . Calls for 160 wt ,I use 140 Staylube in my UF truck .

Use a dental pick and remove old if not same . i believe in back of nut there is a following brass washer .And your welcome glad to help ,as so many have done for me .

Here a pic of some like used in model A . also plumbing shop may sell . Used in old stoker circulators . Size half the difference of shaft OD and nut ID . This is 3/16"

Graphite square rope rings .

Talked to , he did not remove that pinion shaft with gear . However the book parts said it has pin . So that must be how it mounts . Also rear bearing is pinned also , as opposed to front and center with screws. Also rear is not poured but listed as a plug , maybe lead, taped in like modern soft plug .

My friend just rebuild his cam areas last year can check with if want . I do remember that some of the hold set screws came down from head side . He also had new fibre gears for sides of his . The machinist has the programing done and ready for next need to be made.

What size do you need , for at lest better rollers ? Have set of 19" .

In middle of Scranton at Nay-Aug Park .

Maybe 1931-33 with spare on right .

Probably a grommet . Outer four holes is where lock stanchion mounts . Nut is large wing and roller buckled strap .

In UK plate number is for live of vehicle and it's owners , my understanding .

Have a 943 J will sell .

Blue RTV embedment . Cleans off easy when changing .

Secondchancegarage.com the Key men . can make .

Yes if uniform , maybe be expansion slot . Your Book of Information should give all .

Get yourself some waterproof duck material place on . Then paint as ugly as you want with the stuff from the commercials , screen door boat .LOL . I going to try on mine some day .

Save some larger pieces of babbitt to send with . Get a BOI for your model some had offset of width in babbit edge on different cylinder number . Chrysler sixes example . Send piston pin with for them to check twist .

Just went though same trouble on 4 cyl Ply PA . Was able to leave head on and disconnect rod from bottom . Tried to do in vehicle , in end pull to do proper plastigage of all mains and rods . I would take crank out and send to shop so they can size . Just incase they vary . Polish crank before checking . I used crock-us cloth with nylon stocking to drive . You need to pull crank because of babbitt in groove blockage and squirt holes in rod s . My rod whent out because prior rebuilder never put grooves in mains to feed oil to crank joural to rods ie never got direct oil to rods lasted near two thousand miles on residual oil splash . Good Luck .

Do you have pic ? Is this 4 cyl ?

Do you have number from it ?

On my '31 with Plymouth PA type 4 cylinder . Have front engine cover off that covers cam and crank gears , also bevel gear on cam nose and vertical shaft with spiral gear for distributor to drop down in . The distributor index's a slot but gear below has more possibility with all teeth . Must be better way than fishing with magnet down distributor hole and turning and reinstalling dist. to test if near TDC #1 plug on cap .