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ArticiferTom

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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. Yes , those Mopars look correct , but to nice of units to part out . If you find any similar damaged units ,let me know . Thanks .
  2. Go to a site called Kelly Blue Book , WWW. KBB.com . You can plug in infor for current valves in your area .
  3. I guess with all that detailed work if their , where any frame numbers , you would have found them . I know i had you looking previously . Great Work , well above what i would have even considered doing .
  4. Leomara , If your talking about mine just above no it is a Dodge diamond style . Same as DC8 . Core is fine . The bottom was left sit in mud and rusted support off bottom and started up sides this eroded tank bottom gaping hole and outlet is poor . Tank could maybe be pieced back but support would be to much work at this point . I have a later style in truck . But ,it is one thing would like to get back to more original , not necessary pretty . Thanks .
  5. Looking for a lower tank and soldered on side mounts from '30 - 32 Mopars for my Dodge PU . Similar to Ply PA in pic . Here is pic of mine .
  6. Any nos will probably have poor rubber ,from aging . Go to local hydraulic hose build shop with example in hand . Should be able to reproduce .
  7. Do not know what came from . But Free ,for cost of shipping and promise of donation to forum .
  8. Here is pic of Stay-Lube bottle . Made of mineral oil , GLI3and 4 , Not corrosive to coppers . Been doing since 1933 . Also pic of my trucks that uses a car chassis 's lube chart note weight and quantities for rear end same on trans .
  9. Are you taking back to horse drawn or on the Dodge chassis ? Maybe some one in Amish country could shed light . This seems like typical buggy design still built today .
  10. The 600 steam oil seems a little heavy to me . I do not know when WPC made change of trans style but . my 31 Dodge calls for 160 wt . 140 is a common and what I us in both locations . You can get on line or NAPA with a pump for bottle .
  11. On rear , fill to a little below bottom of hole . Should show on end of finger when dipped . On steering fill to hole . Not very critical if a little over .
  12. See if Remflex Gasketing make one there all graphite , thick units should easily handle that difference .
  13. Grease should probably be NGLI "OO" grease . Called double ott or corn-head . Is more fluid then number two or one chassis grease . After changing or verifying grease , then do adjusting based on type of box . BOI should guide you . Lots of good help doing a search on here . Start in Dodge threads , then Tech threads . Most cars used same in 20, 30's .
  14. What you gasketing ? Center can be thicker . Also are ends ferrules ?
  15. The bushing are standard sizes and will need to be pressed in . The DBC web site as all the info for leaf springs and the hangers .
  16. Go on E-bay , Search " vintage ink cans " . There is a nice GEM brand for under 10 shipped . .
  17. Forget Freund , just tried to find on there web site . They where merged to Berlin Co and sold off can making equipment division . Machinery listed for sale . Sorry ...
  18. Freund Container and Supply Co . has cans that are similar , cheap . You need to add connector to bottom and a vented lid . Some time eBay has ink cans antiques that match also . Just watch lid sizes .
  19. Yes , I had send mine to caster and made a few repos a few years ago . All where sold . I think some else had some last year , done in brass still for sale . Do search in FS forum .
  20. Yes rear has a bushing .It was different design with grease channels . I did not replace was ok . Gland is in front of that . You can't real see it ,here but there are some shims and slingers ,also simple impeller .
  21. Actual it was not . The back bearing and packing where keeping to a weep . I only notice after adjusting belt working on generator . Of coarse this was when i was a very newb to prewar cars and this vehicle .I was shocked to see it worn thur the bushing to the steel . The po just cranked the nut and adjustment tighter , I guess . I use marine / farm wheel grease and square shaped gland packing rope . I use the semi fluid grease in front bearing as opposed to oil only because bearing was over cut to press in to eliminate reaming . I was able to use sealant on front portion where lip is
  22. I use the Marine Stabile on non-E . Been keeping my tank rust free . Tank was stripped bare and had baffles and pic-up tube work done . This on top of replacing top that rust out from PO and coating he put in . The vapor -off tech seem to work so far .
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