Jump to content

ArticiferTom

Members
  • Content Count

    1,114
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    Sorry just went back and looked at your photo again . the level I see on top half of steering wheel is hand throttle . That is the linkage you see moving . You must have a broke or short level I can not see in pic above . Should be on lower half . and have four positions talked about . You have wiring to ground issues . As my early post said you need to get a jumper wire attach it to a inline fuse with small 5 a fuse . The touch it from power number 1 terminal to others to see if lights work or fuse blows , note both back here .
  2. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    I do not know what button you are turning .The level should have four dent positions , it will go to in a short span of one quarter turn . They are Parking , Off , Low ,and High beam . The center button is horn . If you are pushing horn button and blowing fuse with out a beep . Look at a miss wire on it . The button puts wire going up tube to ground . Disconnect it at bottom and try again ,then make sure it is hooked to correct wire below .
  3. I found 55mm square to be equal to #1 AWG . Bigger would not hurt , other please chime in .
  4. That's good . Your numbers all seem fine . You don't by chance use hearing aids , that could have skewed your hearing ? Another thought was the insulation wrap you just added . Manifold maybe causing over heat of valve area . As it swells from heat maybe affecting . I would remove from manifold and just leave on pipe until fuel pumps repositioned .
  5. Fuel pump would leak to engine pan as diaphragm is open to atmosphere . Vacuum will help diagnose too .
  6. How is with hand crank ? With out plugs should move easily . I do not think would force with 12 volts . Could damage something just out of alignment .
  7. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    Can you attach your pic . The one above I believe is a miss print , although it is hard to read for me . The taillight wire comes off last terminal #5, pos 6 . The brake light comes off terminal #1, pos1 going to master cylinder sw or foot lever switch , then to tail light . The fuel gauge gets it power from ignition sw ; through gauge to sender at tank . At tank it goes through a variable resistant s of the float to ground . Peg means it is grounded ,I believe . Lift wire at back and see if it changes .
  8. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    It looks good . Cleaner than most . I see some wires are grouped under a single stac-on terminal end . So they will be head light Hi and Low beam ,left and right hooked together . Lift wires one at a time and test with jumper . Careful term 1and 2 maybe hot . there are tiny number on bottom edge that match to the drawing , 1-6 . Something does not look right on where your wires are termed . You need to make a diagram of how they are . And test to make sure what they go to . Do not assume colors are correct . Also , SHOULD of said first the TERMINAL number are not in order on sw
  9. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    Yes , it is to turn on the headlights low and high beam . It also serves as a terminal point for the horn wire going up the tube to the one from the horn . You can see from may pic . These do wear out inside and a rarely available so most clean and or rebuild them . Remove wires and test with a FUSED jumper, each out going wire . You most likely have a ground in one and since it in one position maybe parking lights . These switches get lots of oil from steering box on them . But should not cause a short . Can we get a pic of steerring box area to evaluate .
  10. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    Thanks, keiser 31 was not sure on that . Mar's do not confuse Clum with column . Clum is the maker of the switch at the end of the steering column . Easy to remove . It is where all the wires are attached .
  11. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    They operate the clum switch at the bottom end of steering column in engine bay . Show us a pic of that . There should be two levers at top . One is throttle which also has linkage to bottom . Other is light switch ,that has 1/4" dia. tube to bottom throught clum switch . There is a gland nut down there that you loosen to remove switch and allows rod to slid up .
  12. ArticiferTom

    Clum switch

    Should be four positions from left to right . High beam with tl. , low beam with tl . off ,and parking light with tl . Straight down is used as off . There are some variation out there pics would help also number off switch when removed . I would mark and remove all wire and test individually with a fused jumper . to verify all are operational with out shorts or grounds . Each light will have it's own wire and so will high low . Remember hot wire from horn and grounds through button to sound . And hot from amp gauge .
  13. Sorry about that . If you pm me the measurement. I will get you a part number . Then you can ebay or work from there .
  14. Measure your recessed opening . Go to NAPA site ,search thermostat , pick non fitted . My BOI says to start opening at 140 degrees .finish 180 . Pick opening start 140 .search , then diameters will be listed . easy peesy .
  15. It goes in top of head ,where fitting of radiator hose mounts . I believe modern ones are available to fit .
  16. Where bypass water come through . Hole size reduced at pump . See pic above . There maybe some machining or casting access done through it also .
  17. I believe www.Customhubpullers.com . should get you him .
  18. I agree , probably some kind of topping material . I think pin stripe is the hem seam of stitching .
  19. Ed is not that for camber . Our does it do both . I thought you measure it on the king pin ? i only ever checked toe on my old truck and when rough aligning repair work . Did that with tape measure front and back of tires .
  20. The wedges are the "caster wedges" On trucks they may go either way . The objective is to have the spec'ed caster when operating the most . Usually 1-3 degrees . positive ( leaning back at top) . Easy to measure with cheap inclinometer from Habor or tool shop store . The springs them self cause caster by the height of shackles and arch . On trucks that hauling heavy loads the caster empty, maybe set negative with a wedge and when loaded go positive . When handling needs to be it's best . I would measure an decide based on that and weight your not going to be carrying . You probably do
  21. No thats from my truck . Had off to free lock . And send clamp out to have copies made few years ago . All are sold . i will gladly trace bend piece for you and mail ,send me pm with post address .
  22. First you may want to take them apart and clean rust and dirt from . This sometimes cause a flating of arch . also swap a couple side to side may bring to a equal level . Check your shackles also . Others have had different wrong sized one put on because that all that could be found . Chet on 28-29 Q forum site has write up on getting his proper and having new made .
×
×
  • Create New...