Axial_Flow

I couldn't help but think, for 75K, where is the rest of the car? 🙄

Hello, I am looking for the elbow fitting for the intake manifold drain line. I believe this elbow is also a check valve. Mine is just a plain fitting. This is for a 1931 DB DG. Ignore the missing heat valve pictured below. Thank you

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1935-studebaker-commander/ Looks to be a great driver. See auction listing for all the details.

End of March update After spending too much time over thinking the oil pump timing, I got to a point where I felt I had it under control. The part that kept throwing me off was the service manual says to time up the oil pump on top dead center compression for #1 cylinder. The distributor rotor position was past the #1 cylinder terminal and heading towards the next cylinder, but this is normal operation as #1 cylinder fires well before TDC. Once I backed up crankshaft and aligned it to the firing timing (mark) position, the rotor was more or less aligned to the #1 cylinder terminal. I can finally put that to bed and finish the oil pump install. Nothing abnormal about installing the pump and pick-up. I replaced some of the hardware I wasn't happy with and found the perfect cotter pin to secure the float pick-up tube. With everything in order I was ready to install my newly painted oil pan. I used Bill Hirsch paint and I was happy with how it turned out. For the gasket, I used Permatex to glue the gasket onto the pan and applied a light coat of grease on the top surface of the gasket. My intent is the next time I need to drop the pan, the gasket will stay with the pan and I should be able to reuse the gasket, or at least the gasket won't stick to the engine. Also, a note for others, the crankshaft must be in a certain position to be able to remove and install the pan. The counter weights need to be "out of the way" to allow the pan to clear the underside of the engine. I also changed the engine oil filter. Nothing crazy exciting, pretty standard partial flow filter element. I do intend on doing another oil change in probably 500 miles or so to flush anything out. I will most likely use Shell 15w-40 'diesel' oil for the first oil refill. I have a few items I want to do before attempting to start the engine. Clean oil pressure regulating valve Reinstall rear tappet cover & road draft tube Clean and gap points & reinstall distributor I did note that the upper distributor bushing must be worn because I can cause the points to open if I push on the shaft. Need to look at that later. I also want to test the vacuum advance. Test oil pressure with all spark plugs out and cranking with starter Compression test to verify no stuck valves or other issues If all that checks out, I'll probably connect a remote fuel tank (boat tank) and use an electric fuel pump and see if I can start the engine. I plan on videoing that when the time comes. I also learned something new about this car, I found out that the panels just below the hood/above the fenders are removable and help provide better access to the engine. Nice to know Pictures from the activities above

Seldom seen car in nice condition. A few items that jump out for me. Wrong headlamps Vacuum fuel pump disconnected, assuming an electric pump is in use. Carburetor preheat pipe is missing, surprised if the engine runs well without this.

Looks like it has an alternator, possibility a 10SI? Would also have to assume it has been converted to 12 volts.

Certainly not the first, but Oakland also had 4 wheel mechanical brakes as well.

No experience with the Bill Hirsch tank liner, but I have used the POR-15 tank liner. Its been close to 20 years in my `27 Chevy and still going strong.

Appears to be sold. Looked like a solid, not messed with car. Having driven both Ford & Chevrolet of this era, I do prefer the Chevrolet.

I’m in need of some help. I am getting hung up on installing the oil pump and timing it correctly. I have the service manual and by advice of this forum in another post (Gary) I only focused on the text. I am fairly sure I got it right assuming my cap wired correctly per the firing order. I got the tongue of the oil pump close to parallel with the cam, with the smaller offset portion of the coupling opposite of the cam. My rotor ends up in this position which more or less aligns with #1 cylinder spark plug wire. Can anyone who owns a President with autolite distributor confirm this is correct? Thank you

I am wondering what others are using for "modern" spark plugs. My car currently has Champion D16 spark plugs. I am thinking about changing to AC C87s, please comment or opine.

The R2 models are supercharged. Not sure this is what you were implying, but thought I would comment none the less. I used to hear on the SDC forum "there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Avanti"

I would love to someday own an early example of a Caddy V8 (is this still consider early?) Too bad this example is so far away. Question about the air filters, are they factory or an add on item?

Short update I got the oil pan all cleaned up without removing the rear baffle section. I used a combination of hot water pressure washer, brake clean & compressed air. The only problem is it took off most of the paint on the outside. I decided to remove the remaining paint and get it prepped for paint. Does anyone have a recommendation for paint that would match the original paint on the engine? At least one Studebaker parts vendor lists paint and so does Bill Hirsch. Or if someone has a modern paint code, that would work too. The oil pump is all cleaned up and ready to go back on. Strainer is also all clean ready to go back on as well. I did find a problem with my intake manifold, it appears to have a large crack. The crack is in the area of the preheat section and I don’t think it will cause an issue like a vacuum leak. My heat riser valve is missing some parts and could be in the off position, so exhaust may not even leak from the crack. Until the engine is running, I won’t know if the crack is a problem. All for now

It would be great if this car was equipped with Over-Drive (OD), however I do not see any signs that it does. The 226 six is a great engine regardless.