ArticiferTom

Looking to resurrect this original Fedders radiator , for my Dodge UF . Believe most shrouds of 30- 31 -32 Mopars to be similar . This is not the shell but part of radiator .

No , not that easy . The '31 4 cylinders did not have . I have also seen taps in side corner driver side . Mine they used old coolant siphon hole cap and brazed in tap . On in side brazed tap in elbow reduction pipe from bottom radiator to water pump inlet .

No , meesies up here Bhigdog . But three weeks ago , the wife caught 5 snakes, on the front porch and myself two in house in one day . How do they know when it is time to come in . Cats enjoys snakes more , not as fast I guess .

Yes , Henry and my horns and seen a few others are the same .That pancake horn on earlier cars was mounted out on headlight bar . My bar still carries mount holes from production . They where moved inside, assume did not handle weather well out there . And latter used bugle style horns . The oil filters maybe found factory on larger cwt trucks . Dave may chime in knowing more on 3/4 , 1 tonners .

Any help .

Dried out or unpainted wheels need raw linseed oil . The boiled will harden and seal pores . You need to continually add raw until will not absorb any more . That should swell wood best it will get for years . unless baked out in sun . It is also going to darken color , but can be painted over with oil based paint .

Fused base on wire size . my truck with one horn is 20 amp . Did have trouble with horn internal at one time . Solder joint loss and would ground out .

On the drain . They would probable want just a grease trap if you bring it out to surface and not dump in storm sewer with you probable do not have . And the floor thickness is not for the weight of lift and load . It is for holding the anchors . I would do minimum 6 " pad in those areas . The drilling and driving anchors will be much easier and allow for opp's . I know this because ,I help a friend cut holes next to his leg where driving anchors broke bottom out. We then hand tunneled over to nut /bolt a plate . And patch floor . Next time he would do nothing less then 8" . Of

No floor drains ???.

Go find your local re-enactment group and buy there wall tent or replace there aged / seasoned one for them . It will give you some nice duck natural material . Also look at there old gum blankets and painted straps .

Block looks good must be Riverview 😉. Nice work .

The long rod tie across behind tires ,has the tie rod ends . They screw in and out to adjust . Measure up from flat level surface about mid tire height in front and back . Should be between 1/16" - 1/8" toed in , front . You may find you only need to loosen both rod , jam nuts . As most had one right and one left hand threaded . So just turning rod like a turnbuckle . will move it . Spec will be in your manual . My '31 is spec i gave you and pretty much general rule .

Yes, Do a search for Clum Switch wiring . Depends on your switch number . Do in DB section first . Most near same . First test wire most are bad that's why there disconnected . They get twisted to and fo in column and wear thur . It should ground only when button pushed . So ground while turning wheel . It is replaceable . It will hook to terminal that is not number 1 (main power ) but returns from horn . Good luck .

Thanks Don and Dave . At moment I am not having to do any thing . Per write up in Tech forum . was able to reduce slack back to it's manageable 3/4" from 4-1/2 " . The problem was feeling the adjustment . By disconnecting the drag link from pitman , was able to feel each adjustment in pitman movement . and wheel . So work it out . I will in future be chasing down one because it is worn equal in worm mesh . I also found a number on casting . Do not know if you have them on yours , curious .. C18358 or B ,not sure on end ,was using mirror .

Found some spare parts if needed . Also got adjustment made . Found disconnecting the drag link from pitman . That and loosening all adjustments made redo much easier .

Look at George's site www.customhubpullers.com ,he makes the best .

There is no rubber in mine . but front attachment is brass bush . You may need one cut, mine was fine and got other good one from used spring assembly . I bought for broken main, replacement . The shackles are harder to come by pic up some used to replace a bad housing . The wearable part the pins are sold on W>O>K> club site . Also Filling Station sell some sizes and springs . Bolts Are on ebay Thompson products .

Getting ready to remove to repair mine in UF truck these are crosses I know of . Want to be ready if needed . Thanks all . May even just put a good one on and spare mine . Thanks Tom

I am doing my '31 Dodge UF10 with Warner steering box . Have BOI and jacked up truck and freed dash bracket . But can not get a lose feel on column adjustment . Do i need to loosen the other two adjustments first ?? Others a little easier . But my adjustment gave no improvement , maybe worst . Anyone have spare parts or box if needed ?

My mistake . That was to total remove the springs . Just did my Dodge 31 last month . Check the front rod pin for correct tension . Found all my components over tightened .

You have it right . Jack stands , Diff floor jack , Loosen ALL points , then remove rear shackles . Remove front bolt/rod ,then place jack under spring and loosen off .

Looks good . I favor oil on springs . Having just redone mine and pre 27 Mechanic's Manual says every 2000miles oil. The bolts your dealing with are the spring leaf center pin , 7/16" x 24 tpi fine thread . These are ready available in US at NAPA type stores . The cross bolts are 7/16 x 18 standard x 3" . All bolts are installed the where cut flush with bolt cutters . Hence your snarly end , then penned to prevent loosening .

Sorry , never had them on when I got them for the drums .

With that slide hammer could it also remove the inner seals ?

Sold !! Thanks All