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ArticiferTom

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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. Great to hear you got the car out . I assume you got brakes a straighten out and working well . Not sure on crank never dealt with that .
  2. The correct puller , I fear would put to much pressure on fragile fractured composite . A homemade of same design, further damaged mine . So decide to drill as others have . Worked easy . I do like your pic of push rod ends . Had to use the nut and various washers to protect threads and give push surface . In background of my pic you see another wheel with whole center broke out and metal inside sawed to split . It was donor steering unit so was not trying to save . Had I used drill tap . I think I may had been able to save . Is was fairly rusted on though .
  3. I actually pulled the whole gear box through cowl . But require removing clutch pedal and floor and brake master party and a little religion . If was to do over and did not have engine pans in . Would drill and tap to pull while in vehicle . You could draw column only out . But require splitting gear box in place no so good for reinstall . See PS on above post
  4. Thanks . I meant the second rod is over the first and on my truck controls the throttle . I attach some pics of my pulling . You can see how broke my wheel was . Drilled 1" deep blind 1/4 x 20 tapped holes . Used simple puller came right off . The Q-bond comes with black and grey powder . I first glue tight cracks . The super glue sucked right in . Then did cracks , building a little at time . Decide to stop short of top for effect to show original patina . The wheel is solid now . The build up goes quick, as glue sets in 5 to 7 seconds . Add powder using fine tools and drip glue on wait 10 s
  5. Can not tell if you have an outer wire tube . If so need to release it at bottom also . Note wheel maybe be on harder than you think . Found it easier to drill and tap steering wheel for modern puller . The pulling on the plastic fractored the wheel . I repair nicely with Q-bond system .
  6. I believe the prior install was to prevent static discharge to the vehicles electronics .😄
  7. Sorry to here that . Hopefully others will have some pics and be able to help .
  8. Should have letters same size ,i believe . Here is pic of '32 F-10 .
  9. Look at ebay " vintage fuel pump BC " . you will see at least two BC which looks to be associated in late models with Airtex . But there are two different style arms one AC type lever the other spring plunger type . Also under filter bowl glass remove brass screen, may show a casting or model number .
  10. Did you check all over that fuel pump for numbers ,letters or date codes . May not be AC to hard to see in pic . Check angle edge above mounting flange to engine for etched numbers (not stamped ) . Can be hard to read .
  11. Pics and numbers would be a help . there was a thread this Winter with a few mopar rad's for sale .
  12. Some on here was just looking for one . is it 4 or 6 cyl .
  13. I would go to opposite side, that is never seen . Cut hole , than make gasket and cover for it like modern tank . This will give cleaning and inspection access also .
  14. Yes , May even get a C- clamp in fill hole, use curve blocking on outside and tighten .
  15. Remember any heat you applied may effect the terme finish of the tank , the lead in it could be damaged . Maybe a hook shape to massage it out . Also be careful of the baffles .
  16. Probably NPT maybe 1/4" with inverted flare opposite .
  17. No, ( A. ) your spelling is off . Add a "K" and change "E" . That's the ones your talk'in about ! 🤪
  18. If you have any build cards would say . Dodge from 31 had Goodyear's .
  19. Not only Dodge but all pre war car fan blades. My Pontiac threw a blade 35 years ago but only bent radiator fins. A pinto fan fit perfect just needed to have two holes drilled to match the three bolt hub. This should be posted somewhere so all pre war drivers will know to check their fans. Copy of that post . Quote Report
  20. I finial found that thread again, reading over it . I gave incorrect info . the Pinto fan was for a Pontiac . The Chrysler used a 1950's Chrysler fan . Ebay shows a couple different types of those . No other specifics where given . There where some measurement on the fans . Will have to try and get some from my Dodge to cross . Hope someone come thur with exact info ,too .
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