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Bloo last won the day on August 13 2022

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  1. This was advertised in Colorado about 5(?) years ago. I think I originally saw it on the Graham club website. It was also on Craigslist. Apparently it didn't go too far. The supercharged version of this is near the top of my list, so I do pay attention. They don't come up too often. There were better pics (still not great) last time around.
  2. That was one of the last uses. Before petroleum became generally available, it was used for lamp oil.
  3. I agree. How would that even work? There has to be something else going on. I don't see how. That is something that needs to be carefully measured BEFORE you put anything together. Same goes for your clutch fork angle if you have any hope of it being driveable. Still, that's a separate issue from a transmission only working in one gear. I see a Chevy bellhousing and a Buick transmission. What keeps the front transmission bearing from falling out?
  4. Hupmobile bought the dies, and had a lot of trouble getting them into production. Graham needed a new body. They made a deal to produce both at Graham if I remember correctly. Another cut up Hollywood? Keep the Riviera.
  5. I doubt it would damage anything but I don't know. There are a lot of spikes and other nastiness on the electrical system of 6v cars, but that's true of older 12 volt cars too and I don't see too many people complaining. My guess is it would work, but 6 volts is a little to close to 5 volts (usb is 5 volts) for some voltage regulators (as used in phone chargers) to work properly. Others might be fine. The voltage the phone sees might be low? Would the phone care? Somehow I doubt it. Would the battery charge extra slow or never come up all the way? Maybe. It's hard to say. EDIT: Ply33 posted while I was typing. Good point. I would NOT try this on a positive ground car.
  6. Some Buicks have the vacuum/throttle switch on the carburetor. Maybe this is one, or maybe it has the wrong carburetor and wrong switch. That should not matter if so. Don has the answer there. For the engine to crank, the little relay on the back of the starter solenoid has to have 6v power (+) on one of it's little contacts, and (-) on the other. It does not matter which is which. Look at Emtee's picture: See those 2 little screws on curved bars coming out the side of the relay? Provide (+) to one of them and (-) to the other and the engine cranks. The wire for (-) comes from the voltage regulator. It is connected to a "GRD" terminal, which is grounded only when the generator is not charging if the Buick has a 5 terminal or a 4 terminal regulator. If the Buick has a 3-terminal regulator, the (-) wire goes to the "GEN" (armature) terminal. But, the (-) side must be OK because you said: If the (-) side wasn't ok, it wouldn't have cranked. On the (+) side of things, the switch @NailheadBob linked, and the switch on the carburetor in this picture are different year versions of the same thing. This switch checks for 2 things, vacuum and throttle position. For the switch to be "ON", there has to be (1) no vacuum and (2) the throtlle must be open. If either of these is not true the starter is not cranking. One switch terminal has 6v when the ignition switch is on. The other goes to the second terminal on the starter relay to give it (+) to crank. Either there is no 6v on one of the wires, or the switch is not working. If the 6v is there, you are simply going to have to take that switch apart and clean it out.
  7. I'm not sure that will work at all. I have not used that particular unit, but I have used a lot of ignition scopes. Assuming clips that "clip around" the coil wire and #1 plug wire, you *should* be able to get a secondary pattern, using a separate 12V battery to power the scope, and not connecting any other wires to the car. EDIT: I just looked that up. This is a roll-around? Does it plug into the wall? If so you don't need a battery to get the secondary pattern. Primary pattern though? Dwell? No. Don't do it. The most likely scenario in my opinion is that it wont work and it will damage the scope. This also goes for any dwell meters that have 3 wires or more, or are digital. Ideally you need a 6v positive ground capable dwell meter if you want to set the points with a dwell meter. Many of them just don't say. The dwell meters most likely to work would have only 2 wires (so they can be hooked up either way). If there is a "set" knob that you set to a particular line on the meter scale, there is a good chance it can compensate for lower voltage. Not every dwell meter that can work on 6v uses a "set" knob, but a lot of them do. Primary patterns are overrated anyway. I am not saying they are useless, they do have merit, but are usually not necessary to find whatever problem you are chasing.
  8. Yes, after you take the spider gears out so you can slide the axles in slightly to get the clips out. Try posting in AACA Technical. https://forums.aaca.org/forum/15-technical/ A majority of the people you would want to see your thread probably don't read the CCCA forum. I imagine that is why it has taken so long to get any responses. Good luck with the project.
  9. WANTED: A pair of hood hinges for 1969-70 Ford/Mercury full size cars. These are for a 70 Marauder. A little online research leads me to believe these only fit 1970 Mercury full size (Marquis, Marauder, Colony Park, Monterey, etc.) and 1970 Ford full size (LTD, Galaxie, XL etc.). Please shoot me a PM if you have something. Thanks.
  10. He has the coil box. The "switch" on a 1913 Model 25 is a barrel shaped thing with the coil inside. That diagram is close enough, except "which post is which" will have to be sussed out. I have seen a diagram like that showing the round coilbox/switch but do not currently have a copy. Only 4 dry cells were used. EDIT: Here's the Model 35 link @TerryB posted in an earlier thread. Despite the 35 having electric starting and lights, the coilbox and magneto stuff are probably the same parts. The diagram on page 11 should get the job done *if* using a Splitdorf magneto. One confusing part is the top terminal on the coilbox/switch. It cannot possibly connect to spark plug #3. It must be engine ground, and if you really zoom in you can sort of see it. https://www.dezosmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/1913-Studebaker-Model-35.pdf ^^This. Very important.
  11. No doubt some Bosch magnetos had a "hot shot" (dry cell) option. Maybe not yours? Lots of systems did have that around 1912. The Splitdorf is a low tension magneto. I don't imagine it would be easy to cross those Splitdorf parts up with a Bosch magneto anyhow. The Spitdorf "switch" is also a coil and a few other incidentals. If your Bosch mag has an impulse coupler, you don't need batteries, only a kill switch as @playswithbrass suggested.
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