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Bloo last won the day on August 31 2019

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  1. Probably an AACA Forum member. It wouldn't be the first time. The moderators here are wise to this sort of crap, and usually jump all over it. One still must be vigilant. Someone will be the first target.
  2. Worthpoint is a service that archives old ebay auctions and cruddy low resolution versions of the pictures from them. If you pay them, you can see what things sold for long after they disappear off ebay. Possibly useful to some people. Not a selling platform as far as I know.
  3. I have not used my acetylene lights much, but when I did, they were super effective. As long as you have good mirrors inside, they will make electric lights of the period look like toys. I just looked and mine are plumbed in acetylene welding hose. Nothing unsafe about that. It is made for the purpose.
  4. The lights on the car in the black and white picture do appear to be acetylene. They look bigger than typical sidelights, but much smaller than car headlights. I wonder if they could be motortcycle headlights?
  5. The situation outlined in the original post is a classic scam. A hallmark of it is someone telling you he knows who has it, please call my friend at (xxx) xxx-xxxx or whatever. Wanting Western Union or some other transfer service that has no recourse is another. Having a payment address in a location that is not the same as the parts is something that comes up time and time again. The number of excuses that have to be made up to justify that last one must be huge. Another common thing said is "I'm working on an Oil Rig, and the parts are at home so I can't take more pictures", thou
  6. Obviously I missed something. Is there another thread? That could be on motorcycles. The headlights-as-an-option idea was a bit earlier on cars, it was pretty much standard equipment by 1913. In fact, by 1913 quite a few cars had electric lights. My 1913 Studebaker 25 has acetylene headlights and a Prestolite tank. Bigger Studebakers already had electric lights in 1913 as did many other cars. By 1914, acetylene lights were pretty much extinct on cars, though some trucks had them through 1921 or so. What is a 1914 Princess? SIdelamps are a
  7. I am a former 53 Chevy sedan (with original equipment visor) owner. I can't answer but I do have some thoughts and know what I would do next. Regarding the hardtop visor, it is WIDER than your car? How can that be? I can imagine a Pontiac being wider than a Chevy, but not the other way around. GM reused some stampings and bodies across divisions, but there are only about 3 different "sizes" of GM car. In 1940 for instance, Pontiac offered all three. Your roof looks exactly like a 53 Chevy hardtop to me. I would be willing to bet it is the same stamping, and anyway Chevy
  8. Vacuum advance is used because at part throttle the mixture in the cylinders is less dense and burns slower. Therefore, with mechanical advance only, the pressure from the fire occurs late after the piston is already going down. You can get away with only mechanical advance, and many cars have (like some versions of the rear-engine Volkswagen Beetle), but it is not ideal. Since the fire occurs late, some of the energy is wasted. It reduces fuel economy and part-throttle throttle response. It also puts more heat into the exhaust than necessary, because quite a bit of the fuel is still burning w
  9. To get a grasp on this, centrifugal advance and vacuum advance need to be thought of separately. Also, any Ford or Holley Loadomatic (venturi vacuum) systems as used on some specific Fords in the 40s-50s-60s need to be left completely out of the discussion, and have their own separate discussion. Otherwise the water gets too muddy. To get the most power out of an engine, you must light the fire while the piston is still on it's way up. This is because the fire takes a little while to get going, and you want the maximum push to take place just past top dead center. Light it too earl
  10. You might consider Cunifer, as it looks fairly similar to copper. Copper is not a terrific idea for fuel lines as it work hardens and may crack, although it was often used in the early days.
  11. I am not convinced putting the sending unit on the side is a terrible design. Ford got away with it for decades (Chrysler too IIRC) using a locking ring and a square cut o ring. They still leak when the sender is up on top. The gas sloshes all over when you drive, comes out the bad seal on top, and the whole car stinks like gas. It's just a lot harder to see where it is coming from. By the time you get the tank down, the gas will have evaporated. Hopefully there's a tell-tale stain or something. It is also hard to tell whether your repair really worked. I hope
  12. Does this mean the sills were still wood (and subject to rot) or just the floorboards? If the sills still were wood, how is replacement done? Is the rest of the steel structure stout enough that you can just lift the whole body up from the door holes or something like that?
  13. That is a "threaded sleeve" fitting. They are available at Blackhawk Supply online.
  14. Does this have only one small wire connected to the coil and an armored cable going to the key switch? If so, the whole point is to prevent you from jumping it. Here's how you jump it. Get another 6 volt ignition coil off some other car (or from NAPA) that has 2 terminals. Any modern one will, as the one for the armored cable setup is no longer made. Bolt it to the engine close to the other coil. Hook the small distributor wire to the (-) terminal on the coil. Plug the coil wire in the top, and run 6 volts to the (+) terminal. Best to rig yourself up a temporary switch for the 6 vo
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