Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. You might have to.....
  2. Maybe the lift is specified at the valve and you need to multiply by the rocker ratio?
  3. I must be missing something. On the Cadillac what fires the other 4 cylinders? On the Lincoln, if there are 2 sets of points, and 2 coils, a single condenser would need to be in parallel with the points. How can it be in parallel with both sets of points? Both coils would fire at once. There are 2 setups I am familiar with. On one of them, there are 2 sets of points, 2 coils, 2 condensers, and it is essentially 2 separate ignition systems. one set of points fires every other cylinder. In this way, coil charging time is doubled. On the other type, the type popular in the musclecar era for v8 engines, one set of points does the opening, the other set does the closing. There is one condenser, and one coil. This is essentially the same as a single point system, but allows more charging time for the coil (but probably not double). If the size of the condenser (in microfarads) is wrong, metal will transfer from one point to another leaving a "mountain". Which point the mountain is on tells you whether the condenser should be bigger or smaller.
  4. This was just posted on the VCCA Forums: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/422850/hampton-coach-lebaron-bonney-is-gone.html#Post422850
  5. I suspect the worm needs the EP protection even worse than the hypoid does, it just can't have any because of the brass. I don't know what the best answer is but this thread has some good ideas. It has been an interesting read. Plain bevel gears or spiral bevel gears are the ones that do not typically need EP oil. The driveshaft comes in at the axle centerline on these. They can have EP oil as long as there are no brass parts inside. The viscosity scales are not the same. SAE numbers are ranges. SAE gear oil ranges are completely different than SAE motor oil ranges. ISO is more specific about viscosity. 600w is neither. It is a brand of steam oil, and is available in a couple of different viscosities.
  6. Fabric wrapped belts are still made for industrial and implement use. Bando Power King belts even have marks that look like they could have come from the old days, if you daub a little flat black paint over the most modern looking parts. Not absolutely authentic of course, but it sure doesn't stick out like a modern automotive belt.
  7. Other members may be able to give you a chemical analysis of what happened. I can't do that, but I can tell you that brake fluid basically destroys anything it touches. It does clean up with water. When some gets spilled, the best thing you can do is flush with massive amounts of water, and as soon as possible. Seconds count for paint. The thing you have to be careful of is not to get any water inside of the system. For instance, if you are flushing around a master cylinder, make sure no water can get in through the cap or vent hole. As I understand it, brake fluid will attract water, and when it mixes with water it becomes very corrosive to iron/steel, and possibly other metals.
  8. Pushing (or pulling) on the dent in the exact opposite direction it was hit will make a lot of it come out. The closer you can get to exactly reversing the force that made the dent, the more will come out. It may be worth doing before disassembly if parts underneath are bent. Hopefully someone in the forum will have parts. If not, CTC auto ranch in Texas (I have never dealt with them, so no experience there) is showing this Century parts car. LF fender looks good. http://www.ctcautoranch.com/Parts Cars/Buick/1958 and Back/1958 and Back/1956 Buick Century Parts Car 2/1956 Buick Century Parts Car 2.html
  9. Crap. That sucks. Not uncommon out here in Eastern WA. I have had a bunch of near misses this year. I can tell by looking the damage isn't that bad. Don't let the insurance bully you. If at all possible get them to pay you for the damage so that the title never changes hands (instead of buying it back). Whatever happens, its your car, not theirs. I would start fixing just as soon as the insurance adjuster is done looking. Whatever you do, make it drivable soon even if it isn't pretty. Don't fall into the trap of having to put it back perfect if the money isn't there. Maybe the fender wont match. Maybe it will be pink or something. Don't worry about it. Get it back on the road.
  10. I like seeing them too. I find Russian and eastern bloc cars really interesting because we never saw them here in the US back in the day. I think a few of them may have had distributors in the US (NewYork or LA) prior to 1962 or so, but few were sold.
  11. To satisfy my own curiosity, what year was the one that didn't fit?
  12. Bloo

    coling

    It most likely does not use seals at all on the rear of the engine or the front of the transmission, it is too old for that. I would ask over here: https://vccachat.org/ The engine probably uses some kind of arrangement with a slinger, a tube, and a check ball. The transmission probably uses a spiral groove on the input shaft, and a drain hole through the front gasket back into the transmission. Those guys will know for sure where to look, and probably how to fix it when you figure out what is leaking.