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Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on August 31 2019

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  1. IIRC the last 2 years of Studebaker used McKinnon engines, which were Canadian made industrial Chevrolets. 194, 230 and 283. Before that, it was all Studebaker built engines.
  2. Typically no, but a good alignment specialist will know what to do. The main issue is toe in. Oversimplifying a bit, toe in is used to compensate for the drag/friction of the tires. If the tires are toed out, the car will be unstable, wanting to dart all over the place. As speed increases, so does drag and this loads up the suspension making the tires tend to toe out. The factory toe in spec will be such that when the suspension is loaded up at speed, the tires will be going straight, or still a tiny bit toed in. They should stay straight or toed in under braking too. There is rubb
  3. One side will read battery voltage (measured to ground). That is normal. The other side should make some voltage when the generator spins up (measured to ground). If it won't, the generator isn't working. When the generator makes a enough voltage, the cutout should snap down and connect the two together. A fast idle or a little more should do it no matter what. If the generator will make some voltage revved up, but the cutout is not kicking in, look for trouble with the cutout. Once the two are connected, then the voltage will rise to something above battery
  4. Headlamps, prefocused (with the ring so you don't have to adjust focus when you change a bulb) and manual focus (bayonet sockets that you focus mechanically) both are focused lamps. The reflector is designed around a small point of light. In many old designs that had v-shaped filaments the "hot spot" is effectively a sphere. In newer designs, usually the filament is straight and there is a tiny cylindrical shaped light source. Usually the cylinder of light is placed front to rear in European-influenced designs, and side to side in American influenced designs.
  5. It isn't that simple but..... Assuming a car with a distributor..... In general a higher resistance coil draws less electrical current and charges the magnetic field in the coil slower. A lower resistance coil draws more current and charges the magnetic field faster. In general, a coil's design is a dance between charging the magnetic field fast enough so there is a spark for the next cylinder at maximum RPM, yet not drawing so much electrical current that the points burn right away. Most (probably over 90 percent) of 6 volt coils have about 1.5
  6. ....And in 1975 the Urbacar. I might still do it... Never too late....
  7. Bloo

    old oil

    Submerge it in a bucket of diesel and come back in a few weeks?
  8. Craig Gillingham nailed it as close as you will get without reading the data plate (or the emblems on the side if they are still there. It is an R-series International. They start at R-110, a half ton pickup, and get steadily bigger from there. R-160 is about 2 tons or so, and probably about right for a school bus. Postwar, International's first trucks, K or maybe KA series (the details escape me right now) looked more or less prewar. In 1950 the L series came along. It looks like this: Internationals were more by series than by year, and the L s
  9. Yes to all of that. The flare nut wrench might also be called a tubing wrench. Six point sockets and 12 point sockets. 12 point sockets are used for rounding off nuts. Nobody knows why they are still made. Tool kits usually come with an abundance of them. 6 point sockets are used for taking things apart.
  10. I had 2 boosters done there last year. Highly recommended.
  11. Any good quality wheel bearing grease will be fine. I like Redline CV-2, it is synthetic and very low friction. You probably shouldn't pack the hubs, but do coat the inside of the hub and the bearing cap with grease so they can't rust.
  12. I'll be really surprised if that Delco one doesn't work. If it doesn't, I'll bet it can be made to work without too much trouble.
  13. Use whatever you want but change it often. When the corrosion protection runs out, things get bad rather quickly. On those GM problem cars the factory said 5 years, and it was just too long. It wouldn't surprise me if the recommendation could be traced to some US emission regulations (which often specify minimum maintenance periods) rather than engineering, but I don't know. Those same GM cars used an intake gasket type that also failed spectacularly on iron engine Fords that used the old coolant formulation. I have been using the pink stuff and similar "modern" formula
  14. I would use only what the rebuilder recommended. In 1957, Type F did not exist yet, Type A was used. Dex/Merc older versions (2, 3, maybe others) are the successor to Type A. In 1963 (IIRC) Ford introduced their own fluid type, and recommended using it retroactively all the way back to their earliest automatic. I have seen at least one case where that did not work out well at all and the transmission had to be changed back (to Dex II or III as a Type A substitute). While I doubt a little mixed in would make any difference, I wouldn't use it. I found these transmissions
  15. At a stoplight, if you are in a hurry to get into gear, push the clutch in and "touch" second or third gear before going for first. That will stop first gear, and so no grinding. You can go all the way into another gear instead of touching it if you want, and it still works, but it is not necessary to go all the way in.
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