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Bloo last won the day on August 31 2019

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  1. Dave Tachney (contact info in MCHinson's post on page 1) is widely regarded as the best source of used parts, big or small, for Buicks of the period. Bobs Automobilia is a good source of new parts to assist with a restoration, reproduction, consumables and so on. Look around on their website, it is pretty amazing what they have. French Lake Auto Parts is a recycler in Minnesota who have prewar car parts, many makes.
  2. Pushrods too long could cause the engine not to start, but shouldn't cause it to crank slow. Does this have solid lifters? If so, you shouldn't have been able to set the valve clearance if the pushrods were too long.
  3. Bloo

    Terne metal

    Terne plated steel was the default metal for gas tanks for decades.
  4. It might, but "bad" water pumps are usually worse than anything that might potentially fix. It is usually severe erosion of the packing surface combined with (perhaps more importantly) the shaft being undersize where it runs on the bushings. If the shaft can walk around there is no way to stop the gushing with packing or a seal. Packing type pumps do have to leak a little or the packing will burn up from friction and ruin the shaft. It doesn't take much.
  5. Although I would get it running first and said as much, I can't believe we are discouraging the idea of restoring this when the original poster has been warned about the time and cost of such an undertaking, and still has his mind set on doing it. Is this not a restoration site? A 1936 Buick is a WOODEN body, with a metal skin. The wood, if bad, is really a bigger problem than anything else I see here. I don't mean to be discouraging, it is certainly possible to fix. I am learning how as we speak. Where are the 1936 Buick owners? IIRC there are a few who frequent these forums.
  6. That should take you back to the pre-1910 era when things like tops, windshields, and lights were optional. The dashboard would have been... a board, in front of the driver's feet. A speedometer, if equipped, was probably screwed to the surface of the board. It may have included an odometer. Any indication of RPM would be extremely unlikely. I doubt that existed until much later. The speedometer would have been brass, as was most automotive trim until about 1913-1915. There was a company called "Neverout' that made a miniature brass light to light your dash. It looked like a sidelamp and probably burned kerosene. I imagine those came later than the speedometer, and they were never common. Quite a few cars didn't even have headlights in those days. There were hundreds of automakers before World War 1. I think it might be pretty tough to nail down who did it first.
  7. The Studebaker suspension had almost no changes after 53, and was similar back to 51 at least if not further. Steering bellcranks are often shot due to lack of maintenance. That causes huge amounts of slop. It is also a kingpin suspension, so bad kingpins are fairly common. Studebakers drive really nice when they are not all worn out.
  8. I vote it's a Renault 4CV, an early one because of all those grille bars. Maybe 1949-1950-1951.
  9. If you mean the 2 small screws, they are not the contacts. They are the trigger coil of the relay. One feeds 6 volts from the vacuum switch or carburetor switch (depending on year). The other one is the ground, and it gets ground through the charging system (maybe, depending on year). For instance on a 1937, both the 6v feed and the ground are interrupted when the engine is running. 6v is interrupted by vacuum (when running), and ground is interrupted by a contact in the voltage regulator (when charging).
  10. Bows aren't really what I was concerned about. It is tucking it at the edges. I have worked with foam stuff (if it is similar to what was available in the 80s). It was fragile compared to any normal headliner cloth. You adjust the edges by pushing the cloth in with the knife, and at the same time tugging on the outer edge. By moving both hands you can hook and unhook the cloth to adjust the tension. When you have it looking like you want, then you trim the edges close and stuff whatever is left down inside the groove. I understand that there are far fewer types of cloth available now, but in the 80s we never would have considered that stuff for a conventional headliner unless some customer was really in love with it. If the headliner tacks down to wood along the sides (like my 36) instead of tucking up under toothed strips, you can probably ignore everything I said.
  11. Also some of the later Metros may have more than one mark on the upper pulley. Older Metros have a vacuum port on the runner to #1 cylinder that if leaking will cause a miss. It was connected to the distributor on the old ones. You probably have electronic timing on that car, but your manifold might still have the port.
  12. As someone who has installed a few headliners (admittedly a long time ago), foam backed material sounds like a horrible idea. It believe it is intended for those 80s cars that had the foam-backed material glued up (and falling down 3 years later). A 1954 headliner probably has bows and toothed strips around the edge. You sort of adjust the tension as you put it up. First the seams, then the part in-between to get the curve and remove the wrinkles. There is a special tool, although a wide flat dull blade (like the wide flat knife from some turn-of-the-last-century silverware) works fine. You can adjust until you trim the edges and tuck it in. I imagine those toothed strips mangling the foam. It would probably be OK if you get it absolutely right on the first try.....
  13. RIveted ring gears are impossible to get re-riveted today. Also, as gear ratios change the pinion size has to change, and the ring gear has to get thicker or thinner. There is usually a breakover point, or ratio, in most axle designs, beyond which a different case is needed to attach the ring gear to. This is because the ring gear flange needs to have a different offset (right/left). I don't know where this change happens in the Buick axle, or if it even does, but it wouldn't surprise me. At the very least, you would want the case (still riveted to the ring gear) and the pinion. Then, you will need the tool to set the pinion depth. There is a J-681, a J-681A, and another one I forget the name of. All are for Buick, and any of the three will work (check the shop manual). I bought my j-681 on Ebay for about $200USD. Brand new tools that can do this are also available for about $500USD including the necessary adapters. Then, you will need to find a source of shims, probably from an NOS dealer (if any NOS shims exist). Otherwise, you'll have to make them. I hate to be such a downer, but I just did all this on a Pontiac with a riveted ring gear and I know exactly what you are getting into. If the whole pumpkin will fit, replace any questionable bearings and put it in. It's the best way. Really.
  14. 30x3-1/2 is not going to be a long life size no matter what you do. They never were. 3 years heavy touring sounds pretty good to me. The longest lasting are allegedly the Wards Riverside 30x3-1/2 oversize of years past. They are available in replica, but word on the street is that the new Riverside last about the same as other reproductions, except "non skid", which have an even shorter life due to less rubber on the ground. I have some new Riversides but haven't run them enough to know. I have not had any Blockley's yet, but their market is primarily vintage racing, and many of their later larger sizes are DOT approved and speed rated! You sure don't want any failures on the track. Chances are good these tires will be a cut above the other brands. They are expensive. The 30x2-1/2 is a recent addition at Blockley. I haven't heard of anyone trying them yet either. In larger sizes, Blockley are sticklers for the correct narrow dimensions (or so they claim). 30x3-1/2" clinchers made after world war one are really 31x4". You might check Blockley's actual dimensions if that matters to you. It wouldn't surprise me if these are 30x3-1/2 actual, and if so are going to look a bit narrow compared to other model T tires. I would also expect Blockley to be more concerned with good traction than tread life. As for the country of origin, I don't know. I heard a few years back that those Vietnam factories are the only ones still equipped to make clincher tires. My new riversides have "made in Vietnam" stickers on them. I would like to hear what you find out.
  15. Can you measure the wheelbase? That would be a huge clue. All 3 models are different as far as I know. Some quick (unverified) searching produced this: Special: 118 inches Century: 122 inches Roadmaster: 131 inches There are several 1936 Buick owners in here, hopefully someone can confirm.