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Bloo last won the day on August 31 2019

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  1. I wouldn't write off the Model A idea. You will probably want to budget for an overdrive (they're not cheap). Parts are easy and they are easy cars to keep running. An A with overdrive will cruise at 50. Brakes are not terrible (for the era) when set up properly. You could do worse.
  2. Where do you keep it while you are driving? This is going to be a problem in my car. I have been lugging around a big ABC Dry-Chem extinguisher because I have a few of them. It's far from ideal. Halon would be better, but there is still the issue of where to store it.
  3. That pretty much nails it. When you start changing the design, YOU become the engineer. There isn't necessarily anything wrong with that, if it gets you what you want and you are willing to put in the development time to get things working right, but from TV and other marketing people are led to believe it is easier to just bolt some random stuff on and it will make the car "better". It just isn't so.
  4. What electronic ignition does is remove the need to make tune up adjustments for long periods of time, because the dwell and timing do not change. I would not do it to the Studebaker or any other 6 volt car. My comments about my Pontiac reflect what I was thinking about during my first week with the car. I was troubleshooting a tough driveability problem and thought maybe I had found it when I saw a bunch of random flashes in the wrong places on the distributor machine. Obviously that was a problem that needed fixing, and I fixed it, but it did not help that much. I was too busy ch
  5. Also putting electronic ignition on a car to solve a problem is absolutely the wrong thing to do. Troubleshoot and fix, just as was seen in this thread. "Upgrades" done to bad running cars just add more uncertainty (and more troubleshooting time) to the mix. Fix the car first. "Upgrades", if wanted can be done later.
  6. All kidding aside, it might have. That was early in my ownership of the car, and I was pondering how I might get electronic ignition in it. I got pretty serious about investigating it when I figured out that all the brands I was looking at for points were owned by the same company and were probably supplying the same points. I have since decided that converting it was a bad idea, in part because the car is 6 volts, and in part because it destroyed a digital panel meter (volts) in a three mile drive, and then made my test equipment lock up when I tried to figure out why.
  7. What was the source of the points? My 36 Pontiac came to me several years ago with altogether the wrong points in it, causing problems, so changing them was one of the first things I did. The new ones I bought were a brand that used to be one of the most respected in the business. I saw someone online with a similar Pontiac complaining about these particular points, said he could not get them to work, firing inbeteween cylinders, etc. I noticed when I put them in that the hole that goes around the pivot was the wrong size. I didn't really see how it could work correctly like that,
  8. That yardage screams 1980s to me, and in 1984 I might have even been able to tell you what grain and color from those pics. Leather was fairly common in early 50s closed Pontiacs at a time you didn't see it in too many closed cars. It was in more deluxe models, and not completely plain like that. For what it's worth, the seams look fairly straight, and would be easy to live with for a daily driver.
  9. Some 37 have a huge copper washer at the removable bottom of the cylinder. Not sure about 36. Rubber does not sound right to me. Let us know what Bob's had to say about it.
  10. I'm not knocking Kroil (it is very good) but this is the best I have ever used. Heat makes it work even better.
  11. OOPS... My fault, I fat fingered the part number. I'll go fix it. Here ya go. :) https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-4318039AC-Penetrant/dp/B00BV4DBAU/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=mopar+rust+penetrant&link_code=qs&qid=1617886464&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-1
  12. Really? I was under the impression neither Ford nor GM sold it anymore. I asked for GM heat riser solvent at a Chevrolet/Buick dealership in the mid 1990s and was told it had been discontinued for ages. It seemed to me back when you could get all three that Chrysler's heat riser solvent worked better than Ford's or GM's anyway. Maybe just perception. I can't prove it. The Chrysler one (Mopar 4318039AC) is available on Amazon.
  13. Get some Mopar "Rust Penetrant" and spray a little on the shaft at both sides. It is really heat riser solvent from the days when heat risers were common, just renamed to "Rust Penetrant". Keep doing it before and maybe after you drive the car. Heat cycles help it penetrate. After a few days or trips like this the heat riser will probably be more receptive to unsticking. Don't force it. If eventually it moves with a little tap on the end, put more solvent on and heat cycle it one more time before you get carried away trying to free it.
  14. Look for a daub of paint on the axle shaft ends or on the bottom of the differential carrier. The mark will be rearward of the torque tube, but not quite all the way to the axle housing. If I remember correctly, plains gears are blue, standard gears are green, and mountain gears are yellow. You might just have to jack up a wheel and count turns on the harmonic balancer. Use high gear and take the spark plugs out so it turns easy. Its a two person job. Use flags made of tape to make it easy to count. Take the slack out before you start counting. I think you turn the wheel 2 turns.
  15. I wont tackle whether it dissolves or not. Just think of it as a gas tank full of rust. You know how much trouble some people have getting a car to work when a gas tank is full of rust. The threads can go on for pages. The grains of sugar turn brown and look like rust, and they clog everything. It is very hard to get rid of. It is easy to miss that it is sugar. You may have seen it before and not realized what you were looking at. To help estimate how soon the car will be working reliably again, pretend that an hour ago drug you the car out of some Oregon blackberry bus
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