Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Bloo

    28 olds coupe

    IMHO if you need to ask that, don't take it all apart. Too many people never get done. It also puts off the driving the car for years. Put some oil or diesel in the spark plug holes (squirt it over toward the actual cylinders) and let that soak for now. Get the factory lubrication chart and lubricate EVERYTHING, every single bearing, bushing and gearbox. Change the fluids. Change hoses, belts, rubber parts, wiring as necessary, etc. Drop the oil pan and clean it out. Service the brakes. Clean out the gas tank. Rebuild the carburetor. That all takes longer than you would think. I am assuming the body isn't falling apart. Old bodies like this are made of wood and skinned in steel. If the body wood is bad you may need to take it all apart. If you DO decide to completely restore it, there is plenty of good advice and encouragement for that here too. Welcome to the forum!
  2. Bloo

    1949 Buick Road Master model 70 starter issue?

    I agree with old-tank. Refresh the marks. I would get a paint pen in white or some bright color and mark them.
  3. Bloo

    Headlights

    Are you sure the low beams aren't burned out? They do use a separate filament for low beam, so the fact that all four come on on high does not necessarily mean the bulbs are good. If it isn't the bulbs, the next most likely thing is the dimmer switch (on the floor). If it isn't the bulbs or the dimmer switch, then the wiring has to be broken somewhere between the dimmer switch and the front of the car. In that case, I would look around the bulkhead connector at the firewall.
  4. That part cannot be repeated enough. It is just as valid when floating gears or double clutching as it is in the technique PFitz described. Shifting out of a gear, and shifting into the next gear are two distinct motions.
  5. Because the gears grind!. There are actually at least 2 kinds of crash boxes. One kind actually slides the gears, and when shifting the drive teeth of the gears actually crash into each other and grind. The other type is called a "dog box" (still used today in racing). The dog box has some alternating teeth "dogs" on the edge of the gear (not the drive teeth) that engage when the gear is shifted in. These grind just like sliding gears if the RPMs do not match when the gear is shifted.
  6. That technique is called "floating" the gears, and is used mainly on crashboxes. Once moving, you don't use the clutch much if at all. Double clutching, on the other hand, can be used with either a crashbox or a synchronized transmission. The technique is a little different with synchros, but the theory is exactly the same. If you do it right, the next gear will just slip in with no effort at all because the synchro isn't doing anything. The synchro doesn't even need to work.
  7. That sounds to me almost like a technique used on synchronized transmissions, not crashboxes. Most older synchronized transmissions have an unsynchronized first gear (and also reverse). Typically on really old cars you did not leave the car in gear at a stoplight. The throwout bearing in the clutch was only intended for intermittent use, and may not have been a bearing at all. Starting out from a stoplight you need to depress the clutch, and then wait until the clutch disc and all the stuff in the transmission stops spinning before you can put the transmission in low gear. Waiting for it to stop can seem like an eternity at a stoplight in modern traffic. An alternate method is to "touch" some synchronized gear like second or third. You don't have to put it all the way in gear (but you can if you want). Touching the synchro stops the rotating parts and then you can go right into low. Touching a synchro doesn't abuse it, but it does use it. On cars where second is the first to wear out I usually touch high.
  8. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    Interestingly when I was looking for pictures, initially all the ones I could find with the round emblem on the body line were Australian Chrysler Valiants, listed by series rather than year. One of those Australian cars said it was a 1962, had grille like a USA 1960 model, and the round side emblem (as in 1961 USA), and the "cats eye" taillights used on 1960-61 USA Valiants. (1962 USA Valiants had round taillights down lower, and a different grille). The Dodge version up here in the USA was called a "Lancer", and had a completely different looking front end, and round taillights up in the fins. The side trim was different too, and Colorspace's picture confirms it is not one of those. Another couple of interesting facts. "Valiant" was it's own marque (not Plymouth) in the USA in 1960 (only). Also there was a DeSoto variant in South Africa!
  9. Bloo

    Vinyl Top Material

    You might be able to get a shop to make you one from yardage? Keyston Bros. list "Elk" grain Landau Topping (Vinyl top material) in "Dark Royal Blue Metallic". I think they are wholesale only, but you would need to ask. Even if you couldn't buy directly any upholstery or auto trim shop ought to be able to get it. UpholsterySupplyOnline.com lists "Light Sapphire Blue" landau topping, also in "Elk" grain, and have it available for purchase online. Miami Corp list both of those, plus a "Medium Dark Royal Blue Metallic" in "Elk" and "Dark Adriatic Blue" in "Tuxedo" grain. I am not sure if any of these would meet your needs. Elk is a large coarse leather-look grain. Tuxedo is a small boxy grain that might remind you of a screen door. Acme Headliner traditionally had vinyl tops already made, but do not list anything on their website, it just says to contact them, so there is no way to tell if they have anything in blue. It might be worth a phone call. If you need absolutely authentic color and pattern (for a restoration) you might check with SMS auto fabrics and see if they have anything. "Correct" materials are their specialty. https://keystonbros.com/elk-dark-royal-blue-met-landau-topping.html https://upholsterysupplyonline.com/categories/Vinly-Top-Materials-%2d--Landau-Tops-Vinyls/ https://www.miamicorp.com/products/AUTO TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/ELK.aspx https://www.miamicorp.com/products/AUTO TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/TUXEDO.aspx http://www.acmeautoheadlining.com/ https://smsautofabrics.com/
  10. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline. Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...
  11. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    I think its a 1962 Plymouth Valiant V-200.
  12. Bloo

    How old is this?

    "Harmful if swallowed" was already a thing in the early 70s though. Today the warning would go on for at least a couple of paragraphs. That label screams 1980s to me.
  13. Leonard Evans Chrysler-Plymouth, Wenatchee WA, since about 1963. I couldn't find an early picture. Outside of the addition of some blue awnings, it looks very much like it did in the 60s and 70s. They dropped Chrysler in the late 70s, became a used car dealership, picked up Hyundai for a while in the 80s or 90s, dropped Hyundai and today are selling used cars again. The building is still the same blue and white it was decades ago. Those are even the same signs. The one on the left used to have another divider and had "Chrysler" and "Plymouth" where it says cars now. To this day, I see diecast license frames like this on late model cars. They even use same font as the ones from the 60s, the main difference being that these have painted lettering and the old ones were reflectorized.
  14. As I understand it Brad Penn oil comes from the source that Kendall did back when it was green.
  15. Bloo

    Richard Quinn

    Cormorants? Aren't they in league with Packard? I sense a bit of rivalry here. Maybe even fowl play.