Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Hmmm... Maybe it does still exist. I thought I heard it was discontinued, but I just found a company in France(?) still listing it. Ceteor SOS 6V-850CA, 857 Euros (about $960 USD, and then you would have astronomical shipping costs, unless you happen to live in Europe). http://www.batteriediscount.com/booster/1307-batterie-6v-850a-pour-booster.html
  2. I'm not commenting on whether you should do it or not, but here in Washington State nobody would know or care. It is illegal here for a professional shop to do it for you. Last I heard, people who want or need that drive across the border to Idaho. Years ago it would have had to pass a tailpipe test in the past if it was registered in certain counties. Nobody would even look at the exhaust unless it leaked so air so badly that the test station couldn't get a clean sample. There was an upper limit for CO+C02, and that is how they determined the exhaust was diluted. In that case you would fail until you fixed the leak. Passing a tailpipe test with a mechanically solid well tuned car was almost never a problem here.
  3. Have a look at this.. https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/427114/re-fellow-old-car-guy-needs-help.html#Post427114 It isn't my thread, but if you are not registered over there, I would be happy to forward any message. Shoot me a PM.
  4. Do you have any idea how it came to be on a newer chassis? Was this a whole finished car that ran st some point in history, or is it just sitting on that 1920 chassis?
  5. If it just wore a groove in the yoke where the seal rides (and that's the only thing wrong), go to a bearing store with the yoke in your hand and ask if they have a "speedi-sleeve" to fit your current yoke.
  6. Don't hone them enough to require that! Honing too much is just asking for a leak. You can't really fix the pits anyway, they're too deep. Just knock down the rust and crud that sticks up higher than the bore diameter. Forget the low spots other than to clean all the crud out . The worst rust damage will be in areas the seal does not normally travel. If you had a bad bore, watch closely for leaks, then go back and look again after driving a couple of days. If it doesn't hold, you need a sleeve.
  7. I wouldn't change the shoes unless theres something wrong, mainly because you would have to arc grind them, and that probably means sending them out somewhere. I'm not surprised the master cylinder failed. That often happens when the pedal goes low for any reason, as the seal may get dragged across some rust it wouldn't normally contact. I try to avoid doing that, but more often than not it still happens. I had to make a tool to fix that DeSoto I mentioned earlier. It was years before the Internet. In those days you just had to ask all the people you know in the business. I couldn't locate one so I threw something together to get the job done. It is amazing how badly eaten up a master cylinder can be, and still seal up and work fine for years with a light honing and some new rubber. These days I would probably just get it sleeved if it is pitted.
  8. It's not blasphemy, and theres no theoretical reason it couldn't work, it's just that the odds are bad. I'm glad it worked out for you. A long time ago I screwed around with 55 DeSoto for about a month thinking I could do that. I was a gas station monkey in those days, and it did at least provide a few weeks of entertainment for a gray-haired coworker who had told me what needed to happen before I even had the drums off. It's not a performance I am looking to repeat. The difference is astounding when you finally get it right.
  9. Do your weights go on the right way in either hole? Both holes look offset the same way, suggesting one of them might be for reverse rotation rather than limit. Is that an optical illusion?
  10. They don't exist. They did exist a few years ago, but the price was astronomical. I have considered building my own out of a 6v Optima and a trickle charger, but I never get around to it. I suppose a dead battery is what it will take. I haven't had one in years.
  11. It isn't impossible, but probably BOTH gears, the one on the cable end and the on the transmission shaft are wrong. On some cars this is possible, and I suspect it happened with yours. Lets say, for the sake of argument, that the speedometer exits on the driver's side (left, USA) of the car. If the gear engages below the centerline of the output shaft, the teeth have to lean one way, and if it engages above the shaft, the teeth have to lean the other way. If the speedometer exits the transmission on the passenger side, then the gears for below the shaft become the ones for above the shaft, and vice versa. Get this backwards, and the speedometer goes backwards. Try to mix half and half, and it just shears all the teeth off. On a normal speedometer with a needle, and zero at the left, and a hundred and something at the right, the needle goes clockwise. The cable has to turn the same direction as the needle will. It is the only way a speedometer works. Viewed from the back of the speedometer, you have to turn the speedometer shaft counterclockwise. Viewing the cable from the speedometer end, thats clockwise. Viewing the cable at the opposite end, the end that hooks to the transmission, thats counterclockwise. Turning around and looking at the speedometer output on the transmission, thats clockwise. Try spinning your redline speedometer from the back. If counterclockwise from the back makes it rise, It is like a speedometer with a needle. If it is opposite, just reverse everything in the paragraph above. Look at the cable with it disconnected at the speedometer end. I'll bet it is going the wrong way. I think it is time for some part number research and a couple of new gears.