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Bloo last won the day on November 21 2017

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  1. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    Interestingly when I was looking for pictures, initially all the ones I could find with the round emblem on the body line were Australian Chrysler Valiants, listed by series rather than year. One of those Australian cars said it was a 1962, had grille like a USA 1960 model, and the round side emblem (as in 1961 USA), and the "cats eye" taillights used on 1960-61 USA Valiants. (1962 USA Valiants had round taillights down lower, and a different grille). The Dodge version up here in the USA was called a "Lancer", and had a completely different looking front end, and round taillights up in the fins. The side trim was different too, and Colorspace's picture confirms it is not one of those. Another couple of interesting facts. "Valiant" was it's own marque (not Plymouth) in the USA in 1960 (only). Also there was a DeSoto variant in South Africa!
  2. Bloo

    Vinyl Top Material

    You might be able to get a shop to make you one from yardage? Keyston Bros. list "Elk" grain Landau Topping (Vinyl top material) in "Dark Royal Blue Metallic". I think they are wholesale only, but you would need to ask. Even if you couldn't buy directly any upholstery or auto trim shop ought to be able to get it. lists "Light Sapphire Blue" landau topping, also in "Elk" grain, and have it available for purchase online. Miami Corp list both of those, plus a "Medium Dark Royal Blue Metallic" in "Elk" and "Dark Adriatic Blue" in "Tuxedo" grain. I am not sure if any of these would meet your needs. Elk is a large coarse leather-look grain. Tuxedo is a small boxy grain that might remind you of a screen door. Acme Headliner traditionally had vinyl tops already made, but do not list anything on their website, it just says to contact them, so there is no way to tell if they have anything in blue. It might be worth a phone call. If you need absolutely authentic color and pattern (for a restoration) you might check with SMS auto fabrics and see if they have anything. "Correct" materials are their specialty. TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/ELK.aspx TOP FABRICS/LANDAU TOPPING/TUXEDO.aspx
  3. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline. Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...
  4. Bloo

    Help with card ID (1960s British?)

    I think its a 1962 Plymouth Valiant V-200.
  5. Bloo

    How old is this?

    "Harmful if swallowed" was already a thing in the early 70s though. Today the warning would go on for at least a couple of paragraphs. That label screams 1980s to me.
  6. Leonard Evans Chrysler-Plymouth, Wenatchee WA, since about 1963. I couldn't find an early picture. Outside of the addition of some blue awnings, it looks very much like it did in the 60s and 70s. They dropped Chrysler in the late 70s, became a used car dealership, picked up Hyundai for a while in the 80s or 90s, dropped Hyundai and today are selling used cars again. The building is still the same blue and white it was decades ago. Those are even the same signs. The one on the left used to have another divider and had "Chrysler" and "Plymouth" where it says cars now. To this day, I see diecast license frames like this on late model cars. They even use same font as the ones from the 60s, the main difference being that these have painted lettering and the old ones were reflectorized.
  7. As I understand it Brad Penn oil comes from the source that Kendall did back when it was green.
  8. Bloo

    Richard Quinn

    Cormorants? Aren't they in league with Packard? I sense a bit of rivalry here. Maybe even fowl play.
  9. Bloo

    Richard Quinn

    Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
  10. Bloo

    What It Is?

    I think it's a 1936 Graham. Yes, I know those are the same body stampings as a 1936 Reo. The trim on the side of the hood looks more like Graham to me, but the picture is to blurry to be conclusive. The trim on the trunk lid however, points to Graham. 1936 Reo: 1936 Graham:
  11. Bloo

    Old brass oil line fittings.

    You would need to cut the old sleeve nut off (split it somehow) to replace it while losing a minimum amount of tubing. In THEORY you would then need to cut just a little tubing off to give the new sleeve nut a full-diameter spot to dig into. It wouldn't take much. Maybe 1/4' or probably even less depending on tubing size. I seem to remember once getting away without cutting any tubing off on some project years ago, and getting away with it, letting the new nut compress into the old groove. I am not recommending that if there's another easy option. It might work in a pinch. On the other hand, the tubing might be collapsed too much. No problem using old fittings (female) if the threads are good. I would prefer it. The sleeve nuts you pretty much have to destroy to remove without mangling the tubing. You should be able to disconnect and reconnect lines as much as you want, the sleeve nuts just stay with the tubing. Did you say temperature gauge? I have mainly seen these on vacuum lines and fuel lines. Maybe an oil pressure gauge.
  12. Bloo

    New trimmer in the works

    Pedal all the way back is a brake. As you tip it forward slightly it should be in neutral and you should be able to turn the balance wheel easliy. You can try this with the motor off. The clutch motor has a couple of adjustments. I can't remember what they do anymore. Too long ago. The Internet probably knows.... It may be possible to make it a little better, but clutch motors are just not controllable until you have been using one for a while. Stitch.... Stitch... BRAPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!! is just what happens when you are a beginner. Do this: Make a nice long scrap, long enough to go for a foot or two if it runs away. Put it in the machine, start the stitch by hand with the balance wheel. Move the pedal forward very slowly and listen. Listen for fssshhhhhhhhhhhh.... just hold it there for a second... fshhhhhhhhhhhhh.... maybe the balance wheel starts to move a little and make a stitch. Back off slightly. fshhhhhhhhhhhhhhh... fshhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..... Try to make one stitch at a time. Keep your fingers back. Ok, it's probably gonna run away. Keep trying. You can go back and forth on that long scrap many times. More than anything listen to the motor. If you can get it to slip at all, you will get at least a partial second of that fssssssssshhhh noise, and maybe hear the motor slow a little. Practice finding that magic spot. Practice backing off ever so slightly when the first stitch goes through.
  13. Bloo

    New trimmer in the works

    More Practice! I assume this has a clutch motor. Running one of these is an acquired skill, and it takes a while. Clutch motors come in either 1/3 or 1/2 horsepower, and in my opinion that makes no real difference for upholstery or auto trim work. 1/2 horsepower is the common standard on a walking foot machine. They also come in 1725 RPM and 3450 RPM (assuming you live in the land of 60 HZ electricity). Always get 1725. It is a little easier to control, and the situations where you would want to go full speed with a 3450 RPM motor are very few. You may never even encounter it. Some machines can't even do it. I think any change you get from a pulley is going to be minimal fine tuning. You would have to calculate it out and see how much could be gained. I have never heard of anyone in an upholstery or trim shop bothering to do this on a machine that is already set up and running. There are "servo motors" available now that allow just about anyone to sit down at the machine and effectively control the speed. That might be a possibility.
  14. Bloo

    Battery cable terminal problem 6v

    I'll bet it's brass. 70sWagoneers says he soldered it (good plan IMHO). That doesn't work with the mystery metal. Assuming the terminal is on right side up (sure looks like it to me), get a terminal cleaner like one of these and go after it slowly and carefully. Note the actual blades on these, as opposed to the commonly seen wire brush. Just hog it out enough to barely fit down level with the top of the post.
  15. Bloo

    '51 Super's frozen heat riser

    But that isn't going to work on most inline engines! Inline engine heat risers typically redirect flow up inside the intake/exhaust assembly, and the exhaust goes out the same hole whether hot or cold. That trick works fine on V8s though.