Bloo

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Bloo last won the day on August 31 2019

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  1. Frank: I read that the same way you did and could not imagine how it could even be, but like you... I've seen things. RandallMac: I am not sure how your light sockets are built on that 66, but on some GM cars (and some others) they permanently crimp the socket base to the reflector and after decades it loses contact. You can have no ground when it looks fine. If that is the trouble, the best way to fix it forever is to solder a wire to the socket and run it to a good ground. I have also seen people who do not know how to solder successfully fix that problem by using a fuel line hose clamp to attach the ground wire to the socket.
  2. Probably took some kind of impossible to get tires. Maybe single tube.
  3. The signal circuit is the same as Mopar. Look for a bulb with a sagging filament that is touching another filament. Check all 4 corners. Make sure all brake/signal/tail/park lights have a good ground. Good luck. Let us know what you find out.
  4. Look for a bad connection somewhere between the cutout (or regulator), which is the "hottest" point in the car. and the headlight switch or ignition switch. I cant really call it any closer than that without a wiring diagram. What I suspect is happening is the lights are drawing the voltage down (because of a bad connection), and anything that comes after (like the ignition switch) is also getting low voltage. It is also possible that your charging system is just not keeping up. It should manage the headlights ok, I would have my doubts about the Trippe's. I think they're 25 watt bulbs, so the pair probably draws over 7 amps all by themselves. Check the voltage at the ignition coil, and then switch the headlights on and see how much it changes. Preferably do it with the engine spinning fast enough that the generator is cut in.
  5. Consider getting the springs re-arched. Look where the ends of the leaves contact the next leaf. If it has worn the next upper leaf thinner, that permanently changes the spring rate, and you might as well replace them. Usually happens at super high miles. If they're ok, take em to a spring shop....
  6. Those valves were common on cars of the era, as many of them just had a heater hanging under the dash with some little doors on front. The only control was for the fan motor. Without the valve the core would be hot all the time. Cevensky, I don't know what the underseat heaters used originally, but if you can't find any kind of mechanical slider or pull cable for heat, then it probably had one of those valves like neil morse pictured. On older Pontiacs, like my 36 (if it had a heater), the valve and the hose connection are in a goofy adapter at the back of the head, sharing the hole with the temperature sender. It wouldn't surprise me if they kept doing it this way. You can sort of see it here.
  7. It will need to be resistant to gasoline for sure, and now ethanol too. Choose carefully. I have seen a 37 Buick fuel pump diaphragm that was made of several layers of doped cloth. The modern gas washed the doping right out, and it leaked like crazy through the cloth. It is not unreasonable to think that if the original material was used today in your switch, the vapors might attack and damage it. Maybe something made with flourolastomer might be appropriate? EDIT: Some common materials did not do so well with 10% ethanol. https://www.hindawi.com/journals/jfu/2014/429608/
  8. VRD-4001-B Late 1938 Packard 1601, 1A, 2 1939 Packard 1700 1939 Packard 1701, 1A, 2 http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:ang0ed5fpPoJ:restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf%3Fn%3D5213+&cd=11&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us VRR-4002-A 1937 Plymouth P4 (except export). http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:svHdLqiWsn0J:restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf%3Fn%3D3649+&cd=15&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
  9. Are you sure about that? Wikipedia doesn't think so. Of course they could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I saw some mistakes on their Ford transmission fluid page. But then this part is a bit contradictory.. Then there is Dexron HP about which they said: And also Dexron ULV: There are also 2 Mobil 1 products labeled Dexron, "black label" and "blue label" nothing said about backward compatibility there except they seem to be special purpose fluids. Also listed was Dexron III (K), a fluid for manual transmissions only.
  10. That's true as far as I know. Thats a tough one. Dexron was the replacement for type A, and was backward compatible. Anything made now to be compatible with Dexron II or Dexron III or Mercon should be compatible. Unfortunately there are fluids now that are NOT backward compatible, but do have "Dexron" in the name. I don't remember at what version compatibility broke. There is a little truth in that. Ford automatics originally took Type A. In 1963, Ford introduced their own unique fluid (type F). It was a less slippery fluid, closer to plain oil. Ford then recommended it be used in all of their automatics back to the beginning. Back in my gas station days I heard that it was because 1963 and later Fords used asbestos linings on the bands and clutches, and needed something less slick than type A. Transmissions I have torn down seem to support this view, but I cant prove it so YMMV. My 1961 Ford which originally specified type A had brass/bronze linings in the clutches and some sort of phenolic paper lining on the bands. My 1961 Ford had all sorts of transmission trouble and several failures, a lot of it related to sticking valves. I was using type F in it per Ford's recommendation. Family friends of ours had a 1954 Ford with a Ford-o-Matic that they had bought brand new. In the late 80s (at about 40,000 miles) they changed the fluid using type F. The transmission never worked properly again until they drained the new type F back out and put Dexron III (Mercon) in. If it were me I would not use type F in anything that did not absolutely require it, and that means Ford transmissions made from about 1963-1974 which have never been overhauled using more modern linings. The Dynaflow, which relies more on torque converter action rather than clutches and bands for "shifting" Might not know the difference. I still wouldn't do it.
  11. Bloo

    Old tools

    Nice! What sizes of tubing can you make raised beads on?
  12. That I can deal with (with a gas analyzer). I am running a "taxicab" metering rod (2 steps lean) in the 36 Pontiac and would try another step leaner if the parts existed. This is with 10% ethanol fuel and I am only 780 feet above sea level. It runs great. The leaner I can get it here at 780 feet and still run good, the less trouble I figure I will have with the continental divide.... It really surprises me how little trouble I have seen with mixture strength when the fuel (10% Ethanol) is "leaner" so to speak. It is the boiling issues mainly that I have never seen addressed. Some cars were always prone to vapor lock and/or percolation in hot weather. It was a frustrating problem to deal with back then, and It seems today nobody even tries, they just blame it on the fuel.
  13. There is nothing, I repeat nothing, more reliable and better than a mechanical fuel pump, metal lines, and a sock filter in the tank... IF you can get it to work. I have been down the electric fuel pump avenue in just about every way possible, and I now avoid it like the plague. IF you are going to do it, the best setup I know of is the one often advocated here that has a switch and is only used for priming. I won't comment on other early systems like pressurized fuel tanks, vacuum tanks, etc.... except to say that there are even more possible pitfalls with a conversion. People like to blame all the troubles on modern gas, and the boiling point of ethanol. I doubt it. Yes, today's ethanol-laced gas is crap. It rusts fuel tanks and eats fuel hoses and carburetor parts, But does it boil easier? In the 1980s, due to limits on tetraethyl lead, gas was expected to have about 8-10 percent octane boost package consisting of some combination of Ethanol, Methanol, and MTBE. Methanol and MTBE both boil at an even lower temperature than Ethanol. The oil companies adjusted their "target" for reid vapor pressure according to the season. They adjusted for the season in the 50s, 60s, and 70s too. They probably still do today. The 1920s are an anomaly, as gasoline was full of heavier portions (basically kerosene) because the popularity of the car was exploding and the refineries couldn't keep up. Until I hear a Petroleum Engineer, one who works with Gasoline, (do we have any in here?) say that the target reid vapor pressure has changed significantly since the 1980s (has it?), I am not going to blame the gas.
  14. Look for something loose/worn in the suspension or steering allowing that wheel to pull back into toe out under braking load. Scrutinize the GOOD side brake also, maybe it is the defective one (rather than the one that seems to grab). Look for a ridge on the inside edge of the contact surface of the drum. Were they turned? Sometimes the new linings will have a nice square edge, but the old worn linings were less square at the edge. Filing a slight bevel along the edges of the new shoes can fix it.
  15. Parking lights. If there was no signal light originally, here are 3 possible ways: 1) Put a bigger brighter bulb in the socket for the signal and lose the parking light altogether. 2) Change the wafer in the socket to a 2-contact wafer (not always possible as there needs to be some kind of a slot to keep the wafer aligned). You then use a dual-filament stop/tail bulb. It has to have the socket locking pins directly across from each other (bulbs like this DO exist in 6 volt). Or you can grind the high pin off of a bulb with the offset pins. Either way you have to pay attention to which way the bulb goes in. 3) Change the whole socket to an 1157 style stop/tail light socket, then use a 6 volt stop/tail bulb with offset pins.