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Everything posted by Bloo

  1. An Olds of that era with no hydramatic is really uncommon. You'll probably never see another one.
  2. Put some more oil in, quick! 🤪
  3. Evaporust is *NOT* phosphoric acid. I see this come up again and again in the forum. I have probably seen and used every new "miracle" phosphoric acid rust remover to come down the pike in the last 40 or more years, and their characteristics are all similar. Evaporust is *NOT* the same. There are some pretty glaring differences. All of these phosphoric acid cures will eventually stop eating rust and form a hard black skin over the top. They advertise this as "rust conversion" but if you break through it, there is still rust under there. Removing rust always involves multiple cleanings with a wire brush or whatever and will never quite get to the bottom of all the pits thanks to this skinning behavior. Unlike phosphoric acid, Evaporust is not really suitable for parts that cannot be immersed. You can try to soak paper towels with it and wrap in plastic, or even arrange a drip. It is extremely slow, fiddly and does not work very well. They may even have a product for this type of use, but I would be skeptical. If you can immerse the part in Evaporust, the rust turns to a black powder and falls into the bottom of the vat. It WILL get all the way to the bottom of the pits. It will get there a lot faster if you take the part out now and then rinse any of that loose black powder off that may be slowing things down. Either way, the reaction will continue until all the rust is gone. It works faster when warmer, and if it gets too cool the reaction temporarily stops. You want this stuff in a warm room. If you leave the part in "too long", or intentionally leave it in a long time to insure you got all the way to the bottom of every pit, the part will turn black. This is harmless, and does not resemble the crust from phosphoric acid. Most will wash off, but what remains will resemble discoloration from heat or gun bluing. The black powder falling off of a part in Evaporust most closely resembles what happens in an electrolytic derusting vat. Electrolytic derusting is much cheaper, and therefore doable on a larger scale. The downside is that there is somewhat of a "line of sight" problem, and areas that are farther away from the electrodes may not get completely done. For instance, the internal ares of a rusty door or trunk latch mechanism might not ever get completely done. Evaporust has no such limitation but is expensive, so better for smaller projects. FInally, phosphoric acid burns your hands, while Evaporust is watery and sticky. Phosphoric acid fumes are acid fumes, while Evaporust fumes are not very strong and are sickly sweet. If Evaporust is related to any old time method, then it must be related to molasses. It resembles sugar more than anything else. It turns to a nasty sticky goo if it dries, but washes off because it is soluble in water. When my vat leaked a little the ants went crazy for it at first, and then decided they didn't like it.
  4. T5s shift like butter. It just might be the smoothest transmission ever. Most of those issues sound like clutch problems, and I would be very hesitant to blame the T5 for any of this unless it is really old and worn out. Are you sure it is a T5? I would check the fluid. Most of them take automatic transmission fluid (ATF), not gear oil, or motor oil, or synchromesh oil like most other manuals. Check the tag on it and look on the Internet. The piece if info you are looking for is if it is "World Class" or "Non World Class". Yes that is real terminology from the manufacturer. "World Class" takes ATF, "Non World Class" is a far less refined transmission and takes more normal oil, probably synchromesh oil would do well in one of those. With that out of the way, let's get back to the real problem, the clutch. A properly engineered clutch in anything remotely modern should not feel like that. It should seem to go "over center" with the pedal partway down and then get easier. This action might come from a diaphragm-type clutch pressure plate, as seen in older GM cars and basically everything modern, or it might come from an "over center spring" in the clutch linkage that helps you push after the pedal gets down a certain amount. The linkage might also be designed to go over center. The spring probably would have been used with a "Borg and Beck" style clutch with coil springs in the pressure plate. The early Mustang's original clutch was probably like that. There could be missing parts, or the conversion could have been done wrong. The clutch fork must run at a reasonable angle for one thing, or there is a bunch of lost motion. Then there are the leverage ratios and angles of any other arms in the linkage. Or, they could have put in a hydraulic clutch. That has nothing to do with the brakes except that it has a couple of brake-like cylinders that have a reservoir and use brake fluid like brakes. If they did that they may have not got all the air out when they bled it. Or, they might have got the leverage ratio wrong somehow where they connected it to the clutch pedal. Another thing that could have happened is if they put some kind of high performance or racing clutch in there. It's pretty likely they did if the engine is hopped up. To handle more torque requires more spring pressure, and the pedal can be very uncomfortable. Unfortunately, the most likely scenario is that it is a hack job. People like to put all this stuff on like disc brakes, different transmission etc., but wont read the books and do the math to figure out how to make those things work right. Then they get mad and put the car up for sale. Mushy disc brakes are another common thing. On a car as common as an early Mustang, parts are probably available to make the conversions you mentioned work right, although it is also likely much of it would need to be redone or replaced.
  5. Oops I don't know how I missed this, sorry. Most of it was recycled from the old sockets. I dunked the springs in evaporust and then zinc plated them. The small parts and supplies I did use all came from Rhode Island Wire. I don't recall if I got new fiber discs, and I am not sure if they had them for double contact. They did have contacts, and I ordered some but don't recall if I used them. I may have used them on one socket. Theirs have a hollow hole to solder the wire into, while the salvaged originals resemble tacks, but are made of brass. https://www.riwire.com/
  6. Do any cam timing specs exist for this car? On most old cars, the overlap is almost centered at TDC. You can count the number of teeth on the crank gear, divide 360 degrees by the number of teeth to see how many crankshaft degrees equals a tooth. Then, watch with a borescope if it is the only way to see, or through the lifter access if that is practical. Knowing how many degrees a tooth is, and that on nearly all these old flatheads the overlap center is within a very few degrees of TDC, the error should glare at you.... if it exists.
  7. All this obsession over date codes is a recent thing, driven by the Internet for who knows who's benefit. It certainly is not in our best interest to promote it, as supplies of authentic tires are spotty at best. It may not be possible to buy correct tires with a current date code. A tire needs to hold air on the show field even if it won't be driven on the street. More and more tire repair facilities now have a 7 year cutoff, or some similar policy and will refuse to work on a tire based on it's date code. I often see people telling themselves in here that bias ply tires don't rot nearly so fast. I doubt you could convince the guy at the tire shop of that, even if it were true. He has probably never seen a bias ply tire. That is not a slam against the tire guy. He is expected to be an expert in the things he actually works on, and bias ply tires are not one of those things. They were trailing edge technology 40 years ago. The best thing you could do at this point is figure out which tire shop in your area doesn't look too close and give them all your business. You never know when you might need them. I can see the day not too long in the future when every enthusiast will have to find room for an old Coats 40-40a and an enormous service station sized air compressor. That is not a trivial commitment. Now it may sound like I am advocating driving around on old rotten tires. I am not. I am getting a little nervous at the 7 year point. Some common sense should be applied here. Before the date code obsession nobody I know would have advocated driving around on 20 year old tires or even 15. Still storage conditions make a huge difference and that has not changed. The overwhelming majority of tire failures are due to under-inflation and overloading. That has not changed either and is not likely to change. Under-inflation and overloading are almost exactly the same thing because the maximum load a tire can carry is tied directly to it's pressure. At the end of the day, people are lazy and checking your tire pressure all the time is inconvenient and almost no one does it. I do it, but not as often as I probably should, so I am guilty too. With this new date code obsession, people have a code they can check once and call it done. They don't have to think about it anymore. People love that and tell all their friends. Tires will continue to catastrophically fail for the same reasons they always did. Under-inflation and overloading will remain stuck firmly at the top of the list without even a close runner up. TPMS systems, on the other hand, might actually do some good.
  8. Has soaking it in Evaporust been tried? Question for @carbking , does any reasonably good aftermarket, more or less properly fitting carb option exist for these engines?
  9. It's nice, isn't it, when they don't put the valve in the lid.
  10. It is supposed to put an end to the coating issue. Gm thought so. They got away with it for 70-80k miles and then they all sunk. I have not heard until today of coating a nitrophyl float, but I would be strongly inclined to take Carbking's advice about that if I were to use one. Regardless, it should be OK for quite a while.
  11. Does anyone in here have a 1937 or 38 "80" or "90" with a Bob's front rubber mat? If so, I would love it if you could take some measurements for me. If you measure across the ribbed area only, from one side of the car to the other, about as far back as the shifter is, how wide is that? Is the shifter hole in the exact middle (I doubt it). For instance, if you measure from the shift tower to the edge of the ribbing only (not clear to the edge of the mat), is it the same on the right as the left? How wide is the transmission hump? Thanks!
  12. That's it. And what a pain to install because of that neck. It's almost unbelievable. I don't know if the fill tube is longer, it wouldn't surprise me, but the tail lights might be a red herring. That was a mid year 36 change on the US models. If you see a US 36 Pontiac with round taillights like mine, it's late 36. I would be curious to know if it was different in Canada.
  13. Nitrophyl floats caused so many unnecessary carb failures in the 80s and 90s I refuse to use it. Is it better than cork? Maybe. It's not as good as brass. I shouldn't complain. I made a lot of money fixing those. Still, the failures were pervasive and unnecessary. It's something that never should have happened, like plastic radiators, and plastic timing chain sets. If you are using cork (or Nitrophyl for that matter, but Nitrophyl isn't supposed to require sealing), be sure and take Carbking's advice on how to seal it, and do not skip the step with either material. The original sealer for cork was shellac, and the solvent for shellac is Alcohol, Ethanol for example. That is why the floats no longer look sealed, the shellac is long gone. That means you cannot use a period method to seal the float. If Nitrophyl and cork are the choices I'll stick with cork. Is a conversion to brass out of question for this carb? The buoyancy is a little different, so there is always a dance getting the float level right. In my opinion, nothing is more reliable.
  14. Sorry to say it is probably ruined. Don't give up yet. Take it out and disassemble it if it will still disassemble. Inspect all the parts and see how bad it is. There is a chance for recovery. Small, but there's a chance. Alternatively contact the guy you got the cover from and see if he has the rest of the transmission. I am assuming it's another 38 Pontiac transmission. If the cover came from a Buick or an Olds or something I would hold off on that.
  15. I would try to keep the pickup in the sender if possible. The bracket riveted to the top of your old sender might prove useful. The old pickup tube is probably cracked (look closely). It is just copper tubing, and I duplicated it in copper tubing, but would use CuNiFer brake tubing if I were doing it again, as it does not work harden and crack. If your sender is the same as mine (US Pontiac), the fitting is "Threaded Sleeve" and the one on the sender is impossible to get. You would need to recycle that or dremel the other half of it (the sleeve nut) off of the gas line on the car and use hose. Either way be sure to add a ground wire or strap from the sender over to the frame. I see the Drake unit has one pre-attached. Chevrolet tanks probably have the pickup in the tank rather than the sender.
  16. I think its a 1941 or 42 Chevrolet <snip> EDIT: I stand corrected, see below.
  17. Not repairable? I imagine a majority of them are seized and rusted. Mine was all of that, and bent too, not to mention the electrical problems. After all it had a lot of time to rust. If any of these survived into the modern era mostly intact then ethanol probably got them. Ethanol holds water and causes rust. Worse, the dreaded previous owner took the tank out had it boiled out, painted it, and then put this back in LOL. Gee, I wonder why the gas gauge didn't work? I imagine if it really is too far gone, you will have to buy another rusty shot one somewhere and send that out. There is a company that will make you a tank from scratch. Maybe someone in here knows the name. I don't. I have never had to resort to that yet. My tank has flat sides unlike a lot of GM tanks of the era. I might look into a 1935 or 1936 Chevrolet tank and see if you could modify it to fit. Bob's Automobilia has a universal Buick sending unit that you might be able to modify enough to work. I was overhauling a 37 Buick sender for a friend at the same time I did mine, and I know the 37 Buick stock sending unit is different than my 36 Pontiac even though it is made of a lot of the same parts. It is opposite direction (float and pickup go the other way) and the tank depth is radically different. I think the universal Buick thing might be an uphill battle to modify to get working in the 36 Pontiac tank, but it might be possible. It electrically matches. It lacks a brake as far as I know so I would expect the gauge to wave a lot.
  18. Bloo

    30. Cf packing nut

    Is this a water pump? If so, yes. In that case don't make it stop leaking completely, it should stay a little damp below there but not leak very much at all. If you seal it 100% the packing and shaft will burn up. The nut shouldn't be bottomed. It should adjust.
  19. While I do believe you should rebuild the oil pump, I wouldn't get too wound up about oil pressure until you get the heating problem solved. As long as there is SOME oil pressure with the engine revved up you should be fine. The engine is unloaded. No oil pressure at idle is annoying, but might not necessarily indicate a problem. You mentioned 20w50 oil earlier. If you have not done that yet, do it. I doubt the cooler could improve anything, and if the gauge was between it and the oil pump it would just give you a false sense of security. I spent last night staring at your pictures trying to figure out the coolant flow. I think it goes something like this, so correct me if I am wrong. From heads, both sides, through individual upper hoses to the radiator top tank. From the bottom of the radiator through ONE lower hose to the pump. From the pump, flow splits and goes 1) to the passenger side cylinder block and 2) through a passage in the aluminum crankcase (really?!) through a little elbow and into the drivers side cylinder block. No bypass passages, no thermostats, no heaters. On some cars it is possible to get head gaskets in wrong, but these as you have noted are symmetrical and comparing the pictures of your gaskets to the picture of @AB-Buff 's car with the heads off, there is no difference in water passages or steam holes through the gaskets. I gather @AB-Buff 's car is cooling correctly, is that right? I was wondering as @AB-Buff did if there could be some restriction in that passage or elbow. The 300+ degrees coming out of the left upper water neck strikes me as more wrong than anything else I have seen here, but I am down to wild guesses at this point. Did the water neck on the other side also hit 300+ degrees that fast? I can't wait to find out what the news is about the radiator. You already had it recored didn't you? I have almost zero experience with those infrared temp guns, as they did not come along until about the same time I got out of the car business. but it looks like the radiator COOLS fine to me. I am less sure about flow. You mentioned that it will push water out with the radiator cap off. I am guessing that since this had a packing type water pump originally that it is a non-pressurized system. Is that right? In my opinion there is no way it could be normal on a non-pressurized system for the water pump to deliver more flow than the radiator core could deal with by gravity alone. I am assuming it was liquid coming out and not a bunch of foam. I would check that fuel pump pressure deadheaded into the gauge while you are waiting. If the fuel pump is delivering more pressure than @carbking says the carb can handle, the sooner you figure that out the better. I also can't help wondering if the carb could be super lean on one barrel. Does it feed one half of the engine with one barrel or is there an open plenum somewhere? Is there a balance passage between the two sides? I'm still wondering if the neck hit 300+ degrees right away on the passenger side like it did on the left. Good luck, and let us know what you find out.
  20. I had to rebuild mine. It was a bit of work. Nice having a gas gauge though. Bob's Automobilia (Buick Parts) has sealed cork floats. You'll probably need a couple of those once the sending unit works. There must be someone who rebuilds these professionally but I don't know who it is.
  21. I might be wrong, as my memory isn't what it used to be, but I don't think Chrysler's gear reduction starter with it's distinctive sound existed yet in 1957, and if it did we probably wouldn't be talking about dragging until a very high mileage. I would expect an Autolite starter, and a solenoid relay that looks much like a Ford one, but with different internal wiring. The most common reason for a dragging starter is worn out bushings allowing the armature to drag. You can usually see tell-tale marks on the armature and pole pieces inside. Since the mileage is low that seems unlikely. Another possibility is the bushings are too tight, but that too is unlikely. They are probably oilite and could use a drop or two of oil after all these years. I would bet on dirty or corroded connections somewhere rather than the starter itself. When it is straining to crank, pay attention to the cables, battery posts, solenoid relay etc., and see if something is getting hot.
  22. Since the subject of gear ratio has come up, I would point out that the coarseness of the gears has no effect on that. You must count the teeth and divide. Also, how to count the teeth on the gear inside the transmission is not obvious. You must count the ends of the teeth as they fall of the edge of the gear. If you count the number of teeth across the face of the gear, it will be wrong almost every time.
  23. Yes, its a Pontiac engine. I'll guess 1954 because it appears to have a 2 barrel carburetor (does it?), but that would only be conclusive for the manifolds.
  24. You have solved it! Look closely at those to get an idea which way it is going to turn. Assuming the top covers all have that gear pointing the same way and engaging at the same spot on the internal transmission gear, you have one internal transmission gear for each direction of rotation! You may need more than the correct outer gear. Again, assuming the same engagement point, if that was turning backwards, it is still going to turn backwards with a gear of the correct pitch. If that is the case, both gears will need to be changed.
  25. Retarded timing will definitely cause hot running. There is more cylinder wall exposed while the fire is still burning, and it also puts more heat in the exhaust manifolds. If you think there is any possibility it is retarded, I would address that first. I doubt it's the oil pump.
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