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About 37_Roadmaster_C

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/18/1964

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  • Location:
    Central Washington State, USA
  • Interests:
    Electronics, amature radio, antique cars, metal working (machining), cats and family

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  1. I do not need the instructions, but I tried to enlarge it for reading and I had the same issue as @23hack. The posted image is just a tiny bit to low in resolution to enlarge. If @Tinindian would be so nice as to repost the images with a slightly higher resolution or better yet post a link to high resolution images it would be a big help. I know that not everybody has the resources to do what I mentioned, but email works also for exchanging images with individual members. Not being snarky, just pointing out some options 😉.
  2. I have no experience with vacuum cylinders, but I would try graphite impregnated cotton "pump packing". It is available in many sizes and is square or round. I would use square and plan on cutting it for "Chevron" alignment. That may not be needed, but it may help a lot with vacuum sealing. The packing material would be available at any motor/pump repair shop. Hope this helps.
  3. This post made me want to add to my earlier post.... Like @MikeC5 said, there are other variables in torque values. Torque on a nut or bolt is really a way to set constant clamping pressure on an assembly. To get a repeatable clamping pressure you need equil torque pressure from the fasteners. The only way to do this is to have known and repeatable values for all variables that effect clamping pressure. With this in mind, all nuts, bolts, studs and threaded holes should be clean and lightly lubricated. The fasteners should be free of any resistance to tightening. IE, be able to finger tighten until the nut/bolt contacts the part to be clamped. The surface that the bolt/nut contacts must also be clean and lightly lubricated so friction is at a minimum. With this in mind, any friction locking method, Nylock or interference thread or similar will cause false torque and therefore improper clamping forces if torque is the method used. In the rare event a locking fastener is used in a torque tightening method it is absolutely mandatory to use NEW factory fasteners. This is the only way to have a known variable resistance to start with because once used the interference is less than it was when new. Torque is just a measurement of friction and resistance. This is why everything must be smooth and fresh and clean to allow consistency.
  4. A lot of torque specs show a range like 40-45. Torque to the lower spec and then tighten if needed to allow the lock wire/carter pin to be installed. I also agree never loosen always tighten to fit. Once a bearing cap, rod or main, is tightened the bearing can be very slightly deformed. In this case loosening the nut/bolt can allow the bearing shell to move slightly. I do not know if this is an issue, but it just seems wrong. Slightly tighter aligns the lock hole and does not allow for bearing movement. Just my $.02 and maybe not worth that .
  5. @c49er Would you please explain why DOT5 fluid CANNOT be used with ABS brake systems. I know and understand that DOT5 fluid cannot be mixed with older fluids, but I have never heard not to use DOT5 with ABS. I am not being critical, I just want to learn why .
  6. I find it sad to see rare and restorable cars turned into something they never were. With that said, the car is the owners and the owner has every right to turn it into a Hot Rod or a flower pot if they wish. What really is a shame is that there are many old cars that are truly not restorable and could be turned into just as nice a Hot Rod with the same amount of work and time invested without destroying a piece of our history. Hot Rodders drive in a different race than us Stockers for the most part, but "To each their own."). Drive safe in either case !!!
  7. Hi Drew, No first hand experience, but I would put one from the block to the body at a minimum. One from the block to the frame would not hurt either.
  8. Damn, I didn't know Harley made cars...
  9. 37_Roadmaster_C


    JFranklin has one way to get the part required. Another way is to look at an electronic parts supplier. My favorite is Mouser Electronics www.mouser.com or Digi Key www.digikey.com . Either one will have a suitable diode for less than $10 and they will sell to anyone. I know Mouser has no minimum but I am not 100% sure about Digi Key. I used both suppliers when I had my industrial electronic design and service business. There are many things to consider when sourcing components, but for this application the important ones are current (amps) and Peak Inverse Voltage. I would want amps to be 30 or more and peak inverse voltage to be 100 or more for this use. Added: I checked both for part numbers and stock and only found parts that are not real obvious about how to use. Sorry.
  10. 37_Roadmaster_C


    I hate to be a party pooper, but if those diodes are indeed in parallel they will NOT work as a single 20 amp diode. The reason is that no two diodes are exactly the same in regard to breakdown voltage. Because of this the diode with the lower breakdown will try to carry ALL the current and will fail because it is over its ratings. It may seem that the diodes are "close enough" to being balanced, but in electronic terms if the diodes are out of balance by even .001 volt or less that will cause the above failure. In the rare cases where diodes are used in parallel there are series balancing resistors that take the abuse and allow parallel operation.
  11. My 60 Electra was bought new by my grandparents. Long after grandfather passed my grandmother drove the car and religiously had the speed buzzer set for the speed limit on the highway she lived on. She did not drive much when she got over 80 in 1979 so my father started driving the car from time to time just to keep it moving and reliable. I would ride into town with him just to ride in the car. Now dad tended to use speed limits as a "Recommended Speed" and often viewed it as a low recommendation... The one thing I will remember forever is how when that "damn thing" would buzz, dad would actually hit the dash with a sliding motion to the speed buzzer setting wheel and actually spin the adjustment all the way to the high end, often with only one hit!! One of these days I will get the car on the road again and set the buzzer low enough to buzz when I take dad to town. I can hear the profanity already .
  12. Greg, 61polara has it right. Another thing that affects the way it works is how much of the capillary is in the airflow. The more that is directly in the airflow the more sensitive it is and therefore holds the temperature more constant.
  13. The polarity of the coil may or may not have a real effect on performance of the engine. I am not a expert and do not dispute the findings of those above that have had real world findings. I only want to point out that sparkplug polarity is ignored in several current or slightly older designs. Look at the GM coilpack operation as used in many V6 and V8 models. That design has sparkplugs connected to both ends of the coil that fire at the same time. With this design, one plug is firing center to ring while the other one is firing ring to center. These engines seem to run very well on all cylinders, not just half of them. Just something to think about........
  14. Hi Dave, I have no help on the port size, but have a possible help for the sleeving of the cylinder. I sent my brake cylinders to Apple Hydraulics in New York. As they are close to you and they have a very quick turn around, you may be able to kill two birds with one stone and be closer to finished with one removal. Just my thoughts. Robin