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37_Roadmaster_C

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About 37_Roadmaster_C

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  • Birthday 01/18/1964

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  • City, State, Country
    Central Washington State, USA

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  1. It is possible that the cam could cause the noise, but not likely. The noise could be coming from a lifter but the normal result of that type of problem is rocker noise from a loosely adjusted valve. These engines have solid lifters so any misadjustment of the valves could transfer noise lower in the block, but it is not a normal event. Now you said something in your last post that may be very relevant... You imply that the noise is more prominent on the cam side of the engine. This makes me rethink things a bit. I would think that a rod knock would be virtually the same from
  2. Hi Robby, I do not have any pictures as I went for the machined and insert bearings right away. As said above the shims are between your red lines in the picture. You are on the right track to figure this out. You have eliminated fuel pump, water pump, generator and belt. Great start!! Next do the cylinder by cylinder test as outlined above. My Buick is a 320 Roadmaster so I do not know what kind of issues you will bump into if you need to remove the oil pan. There are several 1940ish Special owners on this forum. If you get to the "remove the oil pan" step you might want to start a new
  3. I am having a hard time hearing the sound you hear. I do think I may hear a low volume, steady tapping sound. Now for the thoughts... It does not seem loud enough or low (think bass drum) enough to be a crank related sound. It could be a lifter/valve noise. Check valve adjustment. It could be a fuel pump rod tap. Check with a stethoscope or dowel rod to see if you can localize the noise to the fuel pump area. The last thought is a rod/wrist pin tap or possibly a piston skirt slap. You can check rod bearing and crank main bearing clearance with plastigauge with the oil pan removed. When remov
  4. The above recommendations for testing are spot on EXCEPT do NOT connect power to the distributor!! One other test that has not been mentioned is to test the ignition circuit to make sure there is not a bad connection or switch in that circuit. There are two ways to test that circuit. The first is with a test light. Disconnect the coil wire to the distributor cap. This is for safety while making the test. Connect the test light between the ignition terminal of the coil and ground. You should have a steady light when the ignition switch is turned on. Now turn the motor over manually and watch t
  5. Typical 6 volt starters turn the engine slowly. If you used 12 volts, it will turn the motor over at least twice as fast and possibly more. This is just the way it is. Check all cable connections and make sure they are all clean and tight. Do not forget the ground cable and any bonding cables between the frame and the motor block. If you have replaced either or both of the battery cables the regular parts house cables are way to small as they are for modern 12 volt systems. Having cables made by a GOOD battery store or doing it yourself using 2/0 or bigger welding cable will make a huge differ
  6. @edinmass, I just looked at the box pictures you posted. All I can say is WOW!!! Absolutely beautiful work!! It is a shame that after all the engineering and proof work, the bearings are now out of production. This must be heartbreaking. It is people like you that keep the hobby alive. Please keep it going!!!!
  7. I have never encountered a 'Acme thread and nut' steering system, but I have many acme precision systems on my machine tools (lathes and mill). I tend to agree with you as the acme threads are a square profile and offer much more resistance to movement. One question about this type of steering system... When you leave a turn, do the wheels return to strait if you release the steering wheel? I think that would tell a lot about being able to move things by hand.
  8. You are correct about mechanical disadvantage, however with the wheels off the ground, I have not found a vehicle yet that you can not move the spindles (wheels) lock to lock by hand. Sometimes it takes an effort to get them moving, but they will move.
  9. Try putting a couple of cookie pans loaded with liquid dish soap under the tires. Then try to turn the steering wheel. If it turns relatively freely the issue is the tire, if not then the steering assembly. I am betting on the tires gripping the road very well. We have a 46 Chevrolet flatbed on our ranch. That truck is almost impossible to turn if there is no forward or reverse motion to the truck. Let us know as we are all curious to hear the findings.
  10. I understand the reason, BUT I would still wear the boots and put socks OVER the boots 😁....
  11. One other detail... On my 37 Roadmaster Phaeton the original glass was clear laminated, like a modern windshield glass. I do not think it really matters as both laminated and tempered are safety rated. The difference being that tempered will break into small squares if broken while laminated will just crack, but hold together. My glass guy custom cut laminated replacements patterned from the originals.
  12. Hi Nick, I see no problem with the oil your rebuilder recommended. I would highly encourage you to use the same oil in all of your older cars. This is just for simplicity and ease of maintenance. I do not like synthetics in my older engines, but in fairness, this is just a personal feeling with absolutely NO real reason. I do know that synthetic gear oils will leak much worse than their non-synthetic equivalents, in transmissions and differentials. They can also cause trouble with syncromesh operation in some transmissions. The reason for this, I have been told by old time transmission re
  13. My only experience with Bijur lubricating systems and fittings is from a machine tool standpoint not automotive. Current Bijur fittings, that have an internal check valve, have an arrow clearly stamped on the fitting body showing direction of flow. If your fittings have a spring, internal to the fitting, they are almost sure to be a check fitting. Current Bijur check fittings have a spring tensioned ball check. In this case the end with the spring is the outlet. There are many reasons for a check fitting, but the most obvious is to stop any oil from the joint from being pushed back into the li
  14. This depends on if you are viewing the leak from the front or rear of the car 🤭. In any case the car looks great!!!
  15. Please give us a more detailed description of the failure. For example: the gauge reads correctly when the tank is between 1/4 and empty. When over 1/4 full the gauge reads xxxx (full or empty). 1930's GM gauges read full when the tank sender wire is open and empty when the tank sender wire is shorted to ground. A full description will tell us what is happening electrically.
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