37_Roadmaster_C

I agree with you. but these are the times we live in. Repair of custom electronic devices is very hard to do and it is only going to get worse. As said above, parts become obsolete or are custom and not available to the public not to mention that schematics, layout diagrams and anything else a tech would need are not available. This is just another way to limit the lifespan of a product WITHOUT doing it directly. OK, rant off......

@Jack Bennett, That rig looks GREAT. Do what YOU want and enjoy your ride! I just don't know about those WW tires.....they seem to clash with the green spokes..... kidding 😇.

It matters! I am not sure on the 55 but on the 37 the one facing the front of the car goes to intake manafold vacuum port and the one facing the firewall goes to the wiper switch/valve.

The real point here is that NEITHER is BETTER. Both work equally well as designed IF they are properly maintained. Now what do all of you say about systems like the older vehicles that have NO BATTERY systems at all? Should they be randomly converted to 6 volt? 12 volt? 24 volt? 48 volt? 8 volt, blah blah blah or should they all be scrapped because they do not have the BEST voltage system... OK, I'm gone from this thread!

This has gone so far OFF TOPIC that it is not even funny. If the OP is not disgusted with where actual answers to their post went they should be!! @Peter Gariepy, if any thread needs locking this is an outstanding example. It is now in your ballpark....

@1939_Buick, My 37 Roadmaster 320 has a compound pump.

Price, Quality, Time.... Pick two!!!

The materials alone for my 37 Buick Roadmaster Phaeton, including all leather seats, door panels, kick panels, full convertible top and padding and front and rear carpet and padding was just north of $25K. I do not have a separate labor cost as the work was included in more big invoices. Very expensive, but looks fantastic!!!

Another good supplier is Rhode Island Wire.

You will need to ask the supplier to make sure. The harness for my 37 Buick came from YNZ and included everything except the battery cables and they were available for an extra cost as was the turn signal switch and modified wiring which I did buy.

With the speedometer having been locked up I would suspect that the square drive inside the speedometer gear in the transmission could have been rounded out or like you mentioned, the cable core may be short.

They may not be exactly the same, but they look outstanding and they sent a proof to approve. If it was not acceptable Bob could have had them edit and send another proof. The great thing about this method is that it is just a specialized color printer with the proper inks. The work is in the design on the computer. If you do not like something it is as simple as editing a drawing. In any case. $26 for the materials and the time is a great value. Looks GREAT!!

@hook I agree with you and would hope that our members would refrain from the endless rants on things like "single chamber master cylinders". I suppose I am dreaming, but if it saved one person or one car it would be worth it.

This was an interesting thread. I had never heard of a fuemer, but understand what the engineers were thinking in the 20's. Thanks for the education. This thread also makes me wonder what the members here would think about a "Safety Forum" where things like this could be reposted to. There have been many things from the past that have proven hazardous or become unsafe with modern applications. It may be nice if there was a place for new owners as well as us antique antique owners to gain a bit of knowledge to keep out hobby safer.

I have helped @Bloo with his SA-25, but I do not remember anything about the internal wiring of the switch or Splitdorf magneto. My part was mostly to help with a modern battery pack. In any case, Bloo hit the main point, the Splitdorf requires "external" power to provide spark. This power comes from the internal low tension magneto coils and magnets in conjunction with the external coil and condenser in the switch OR an external battery. In 1912 the battery was a disposable alkaline battery which was used for starting as the low tension magneto was very poor at hand cranking speed while the battery allowed a full hot spark while cranking. Once started the switch was turned to Mag and all was good. To stop the engine you disconected the battery or coil/condenser by placing the switch in the middle position. Another thing about this car was the Acetylene hot shot starter (my name for it). Bloo can tell you more as the car has not had this since I helped him get it going again 15+ years ago.