37_Roadmaster_C

Hi Bill and welcome. I do not know about the 40 Special, but it is common for the anchor bolt to be eccentric to the mounting stud/bolt. You may find that with the nut loose it will be possible to rotate the anchor bolt and it will move side to side or sum such to allow the needed adjustment before locking it in place with the nut. Good luck and let us know.

I do not know about glass to glass bonding, but I have used several different products to bond rear view mirrors to windshields. If used as directed they work very well. Cleanliness and prep are extremely important. You might want to check with a glass shop and see what they say.

Yes @Ben Bruce aka First Born, you could do it for a lot less as you would not be paying yourself the current going rate. Now in all honesty the timing is ridiculous, but the price may not be. It really depends on the work and parts required for the rebuild. I had my 37 320 completely rebuilt including pistons, rings, valves, guides, boring, crank and cam grinding, rod modification for insert bearings and smaller things I can not remember. This was done by a retired professional engine man in my town that the best trust. The rebuild took about 3 months including the out of shop work. The final cost was around $9000 if I remember right and he did not charge normal shop rates as he worked out of his personal shop on his home property. So $10000 is not way out of line depending.....

@clipperfan, just for ease of use and to avoid mounting another switch, I would hook the blue wire to either the light or dimmer switch or even easier would be to hook it to the parking light +12 volt wire. the only drawback to the parking light connection is that the headlight covers would open even if you only had the light switch in the parking position. I don't know about you, but I almost never use parking lights only.

Actually it is Southeast of Portland just off of Hwy 97.

The video Terry posted shows one way to do it. It confirmed what I was thinking. Red to Battery Positive, Black to Chassis ground and blue to trigger the open/close. It appears that when the blue wire receives +12 volts the doors open and when the +12 volts is removed from the blue wire they close. I WOULD test this on the bench before installing just to make sure. Not being familiar with your car I will leave it to you to find a source for the +12 volts when the headlights are turned on. Good Luck with the project.

I do not know Desoto, but based on the picture it looks like a ground wire. Can you tell us where the other end of that wire goes? Depending on how that plate is mounted and what else is mounted on/in it, it could just be a ground to provide a good, constant ground to indicator lights or instruments.

Just to help a little. My 60 Electra was bought new by my grandfather in early 1960. He had seat belts installed by the dealer before he drove her home. The car is white with the red cloth interior. The seat belts are a perfect matching dark red color with chrome buckles. As for length, they are quite long. I think the front belts would touch the floor if extended all the way and unlatched.

@Skidplate, Not trying to trash your solution to a problem, BUT the physics of the circuit cannot be changed. The lower 6 volt battery WILL experience more load discharge AND the lesser discharged upper battery WILL limit the charging of the lower battery along with overcharging the upper battery. This may not be a problem for you as it is VERY dependent on how the system is used. Just my $.02 solution would be to use the 2 batteries in parallel for more reserve power and add a 6 to 12 volt converter for the 12 volt accessories. If you have a 12 volt starter, and really want to keep it, then a converter will not work and you would be forced to either convert the entire system to 12 volt or do as you have done. If you are happy with how it works then you are good to go.

@Skidplate, Do you notice any imbalance in the charge of the two batteries? The system you have drawn is very simple and would give both 6 and 12 volts to the car and accessories, but these series divided systems often suffer from battery imbalance causing premature failure of the lower 6 volt battery due to overcharge and premature failure of the upper battery due to undercharge. There is no easy way to avoid this, but it can be minimized by switching the two batteries every once in a while (4 months?) to balance them out. Another way to help the situation is to run both batteries down a bit by leaving a 12 volt accessory on until the 12 volt power drops to 10.5 or so then charge each battery separately with a good 6 volt charger until they are fully charged. This should be done every 4 months or so depending on how often the car is driven. You do not need to disconnect anything to charge the batteries, just connect the charger neg to neg and pos to pos on one battery at a time. This will help battery life a LOT! The reason for this problem is that the lower 6 volt battery is discharged with ALL loads while the upper battery is only discharged with 12 volt loads while both batteries are charged in reference to the 12 volt series string. It may not seem like a big deal, but with Optima 6 volt batteries a $225+ each, every extra year adds up 😀.

You did well! The old shop you found is a rare thing these days. Nothing beats the knowledge and skills of real world professionals!

don't worry about a 30 amp charge until you have had a chance to drive it a bit. These systems pour the coals to things at first, then calm down. Modern GM vehicles will charge at close to 100 amps for a few minutes after a cold start, then calm down. Actually be glad you CAN charge at 30 amps when needed so you don't discharge the battery driving at night with the radio playing...

@Bloo caught my mistake in flasher lettering. I edited my post to correct. Not enough coffee yet 😂.

Here it goes... Yellow - flasher main connection Normally "L" White - Park light feed from headlight switch Orange - Brake light feed from brake switch Green - Front left or right (pairs with Blue) Blue - Rear left or right (pairs with Green) Red - Front left or right (pairs with Brown) Brown - Rear left or right (pairs with red) Black - to flasher pilot connection Normally "P" Also, connect the "B or X" flasher terminal to power and make sure to ground the switch assembly I hope this helps Edit to correct my flasher terminal letters

One more helpful piece of information would be a picture of the inside switch blocks with the lever in all three positions and just for fun, also the 4 way position. We can figure it out with what you posted, but this last bit will cut the time by a factor of 10 😀.