Jump to content

37_Roadmaster_C

Members
  • Content Count

    409
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

152 Excellent

About 37_Roadmaster_C

Recent Profile Visitors

1,006 profile views
  1. I am one of those purists, but.... When you upgrade as you mention you have just created a one off unique car. This may be OK or not... If the upgrade fails on the road you will not be able to band aid fix it to get you home with a few low cost spare parts and a minimal tool kit. Just my $.02. Your car so it is your choice.....
  2. Most everything has already been said. One other possibility is a bad battery. It is possible that the internal connection to the positive post is bad. Best test for this is to try a known good battery if you can.
  3. @Matt Harwood, You did very well. The best thing to do to assist with machining, grinding or shaping any rubber part is to chill it first! At the very least put it in the freezer overnight and then work quickly. You may need to refreeze if it needs a lot of material removed. If you really need to do precision work or many parts liquid nitrogen is your best friend. It is very quick to cool and easy to use. JUST BE VERY CAREFUL!!! Liquid nitrogen is very unforgiving if it spills or splashes. Gloves and face shield is a must for safety.
  4. Bill. What type of wheel spacer did Rob use? Was it a single disk or individual spacers on each wheel stud? This seems very strange unless the lug nuts loosened some way....
  5. I think @Frank DuValhas a very good suggestion. Old brake master cylinders reservoirs are open to the atmosphere. The Dot 3 brake fluids commonly used in those systems attract water out of the air like a sponge! When you get water in Dot 3 fluid you now have a BIG problem! The water will rust brake lines and cylinders and will definitely cause corrosion to dissimilar metal parts, just like on boats. The way I have solved this issue is like Frank did. I cleaned the systems thoroughly then used Dot 5 silicon fluid. The Dot 5 fluid will not absorb water and works great. One thing about the Dot 5
  6. @ghaskett, Please post a picture of the broken resister, both sides. Your description is throwing me a bit (it happens with age). If the heater blower speeds work ok the broken ceramic is not a problem. Many large power resistors of the past were wound on ceramic cores so they could handle the heat generated. Unfortunately, ceramic is somewhat fragile. Not like glass or crystal, but still breakable. The good thing is that the ceramic is only for holding the resistance element. It has no electrical properties except insulation. There are newer resistors that could replace the one you have, bu
  7. Definitely aftermarket. Common switches added were a starter button, fog/driving lights, heater fan and probably others....
  8. Great Job!!! The more I follow this thread the more I am glad I have a machine shop in my old garage and know how to use it 😂!!! One of these days I will be working on my 60 and this will be the go to bible for the upkeep!!! I should only have to do half the work as mine is a family car with just over 70K known to be original! I also will not be attempting the AC install...that is just to much work for me. You are going to have a wonderful car when you are done. It will be like driving on a cloud and cool in the hot Texas summers!
  9. A very basic way to turn the crank is to put the car in the highest gear and rock it by hand. The crank will turn. You may have to juggle back and forth a bit to get to a high lobe, but you can do it.
  10. @NCCT, Please follow up on this when you get things working properly. As said above, it is virtually impossible for an ammeter to do what you describe. I am sure you are going to find more wrong as you continue forward with this repair. It will be very interesting to hear what you find. To prove or disprove what you have found, please make the following test... With ALL wires disconnected from the ammeter make the following resistance measurements: Measure resistance (ohms) between the two ammeter terminals, Then reverse the test meter leads and repeat the measurement. Please post your find
  11. As said above. Buy a set of R134a adapters and you are back in business. The only other thing you will need is a pressure chart for T134a. Pressure is pressure. Just ignore the fancy color coded gauge sections and read the pressure in psi then use the chart. Also, Joe is 100% correct. The pressure will vary as the system works. Many things effect system pressures and clutch cycling. However, if it is cycling like you describe, you are low on freon! I would wait for a warmer day, say 80+ and then add freon slowly until it keeps running and the gauge is in the green. Another thing you should do
  12. I feel sorry for the buyers that are looking for the "old junk" that I had/have. I gave up on fleebay and their idiotic way of doing things. Twenty years ago it was a very viable platform to buy OR sell on with a very large audience. Now, between them and PayPal and their combined fee gouging it is more profitable for me to simply haul it to the dump or scrapper. It is sad, but cost vs cash always goes to lower net cost and that means the dump in most cases. Very sad times.........
  13. @2carb40, If that location is not in an exhaust crossover point then any high temp loktite will most likely work just fine. The high temp products are rated for applications up to 450 F. A normal intake should not get that hot. In any case, even if it did release it would still be very sticky and be unlikely to actually loosen. Other options would be to stake the side with a punch point, use a HIGH temp epoxy or last case, drill and pin the thread edge with a pin or thread the pin hole and use a set screw. I would just use red loktite and install the carb 😀.
  14. While you are measuring, also measure the current at the battery. This way we will know the total current available (at generator) and the current going into or out of the battery. With these numbers we will have a much better picture of what may be happening. Also, with a generator charging system, rpm is a very big part of the picture. Repeat all measurements at various engine rpm. Of the most important are the rpm where the charge current at the generator is the highest and at an estimated average driving rpm. The driving rpm is the hardest to estimate AND the most important, unfortunate
×
×
  • Create New...