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About 37_Roadmaster_C

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/18/1964

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  • Location:
    Central Washington State, USA
  • Interests:
    Electronics, amature radio, antique cars, metal working (machining), cats and family

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  1. 37_Roadmaster_C


    JFranklin has one way to get the part required. Another way is to look at an electronic parts supplier. My favorite is Mouser Electronics www.mouser.com or Digi Key www.digikey.com . Either one will have a suitable diode for less than $10 and they will sell to anyone. I know Mouser has no minimum but I am not 100% sure about Digi Key. I used both suppliers when I had my industrial electronic design and service business. There are many things to consider when sourcing components, but for this application the important ones are current (amps) and Peak Inverse Voltage. I would want amps to be 30 or more and peak inverse voltage to be 100 or more for this use. Added: I checked both for part numbers and stock and only found parts that are not real obvious about how to use. Sorry.
  2. 37_Roadmaster_C


    I hate to be a party pooper, but if those diodes are indeed in parallel they will NOT work as a single 20 amp diode. The reason is that no two diodes are exactly the same in regard to breakdown voltage. Because of this the diode with the lower breakdown will try to carry ALL the current and will fail because it is over its ratings. It may seem that the diodes are "close enough" to being balanced, but in electronic terms if the diodes are out of balance by even .001 volt or less that will cause the above failure. In the rare cases where diodes are used in parallel there are series balancing resistors that take the abuse and allow parallel operation.
  3. My 60 Electra was bought new by my grandparents. Long after grandfather passed my grandmother drove the car and religiously had the speed buzzer set for the speed limit on the highway she lived on. She did not drive much when she got over 80 in 1979 so my father started driving the car from time to time just to keep it moving and reliable. I would ride into town with him just to ride in the car. Now dad tended to use speed limits as a "Recommended Speed" and often viewed it as a low recommendation... The one thing I will remember forever is how when that "damn thing" would buzz, dad would actually hit the dash with a sliding motion to the speed buzzer setting wheel and actually spin the adjustment all the way to the high end, often with only one hit!! One of these days I will get the car on the road again and set the buzzer low enough to buzz when I take dad to town. I can hear the profanity already .
  4. Greg, 61polara has it right. Another thing that affects the way it works is how much of the capillary is in the airflow. The more that is directly in the airflow the more sensitive it is and therefore holds the temperature more constant.
  5. The polarity of the coil may or may not have a real effect on performance of the engine. I am not a expert and do not dispute the findings of those above that have had real world findings. I only want to point out that sparkplug polarity is ignored in several current or slightly older designs. Look at the GM coilpack operation as used in many V6 and V8 models. That design has sparkplugs connected to both ends of the coil that fire at the same time. With this design, one plug is firing center to ring while the other one is firing ring to center. These engines seem to run very well on all cylinders, not just half of them. Just something to think about........
  6. Hi Dave, I have no help on the port size, but have a possible help for the sleeving of the cylinder. I sent my brake cylinders to Apple Hydraulics in New York. As they are close to you and they have a very quick turn around, you may be able to kill two birds with one stone and be closer to finished with one removal. Just my thoughts. Robin
  7. You said the engine was rebuilt. With this in mind are you shure the flywheel was installed in the correct position? The flywheel CAN be bolted on in the wrong rotational place. Buick engineers kinda goofed by not making the bolt holes line up in only one position. Just a thought.
  8. Hi David, The above answers are dead on. If I understand your first post corectly the firewall plate is missing. The plate I am refering to is on the passenger side of the car on the firewall in the engine compartment. My 37 Roadmaster has the same issue. When the add-on heater was installed one of the holes for the heater pipes was drilled through the ID plate was destroyed and removed. Fortunatly for me Washington state used the engine number on the title. My car also has the frame tag that Matt refered to inb his first answer. If the price is right buy the car and get a notarized bill of sale and go to your licensing office and move forward from there.
  9. Hi Broken You have now joined the exclusive club for those of us that have to much technical experience and way to much time on our hands........ Also, Thanks Joe. That schematic will be very helpful to those of us that want to find the real answer for GM alternator failures .
  10. Hi Mike, I know nothing specific about Durant, but I would look things over with a critical eye. Depending on how the differential is built the gasket question you pose might have more importance than just leaking gear oil. It is possible that the gasket thickness may effect the preload on the bearings. It is probably unlikely, but I am having that exact problem with a modern (1996) GMC differential. Just look things over with the question in mind... Would spacing of the two halves effect the pressures on any of the parts? The only other thing I would be careful about is WHO I let work on my car. If someone takes it apart, they should be able to reassemble it properly. If they cannot then they are a hazard to your classic.... Robin
  11. Ihad the water pump on my 37 Roadmaster rebuilt by the Flying Duchman and will highly recomend them. The work was flawless and part of their services is to throughly clean the parts and repaint the housings. When it was shiped back it looked and worked like a new pump. I do not remember the cost exactly, but $150.00 rings bells. I have no regrets with the work and price.
  12. If the origional Carters only need a rebuild then they are by far the best answer. The Carters are not fancy nor do they have a spiffy name, but they are dependable, reliable and stock equipment. Why would you think needing a rebuild would make the stock carbs garbage? I'm sorry, but I just do not understand that thinking. Your car, your carbs and your decision. If you do replace the Carters, treat them kindly as someone will buy them to make a modified car stock again.
  13. That looks like exceptional quality work. Just a tidbit of information for those who may want it.... Veradale is an old name for a community just east of Spokane Washington. Now it is part of Spokane Valley Washington. The area is the largest metro in Eastern Washington. Just a FYI....
  14. Loren, I gave you a like for the factory name