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Everything posted by 37_Roadmaster_C

  1. Good Job!!! Now the fun begins.... Don't worry to much about the strange rattles and creaks...... Oops, did not mean to get you thinking about ghosts 🤭.
  2. I am not sure how Pertronix designed their system, but I would not expect low voltage to destroy the module. I have heard of systems hooked up like you describe that had problems until the ballast resistor was bypassed. This should be clearly addressed in the Pertronix instructions. One good thing is that by ordering a new Pertronix module you will get the instructions AND have a good or spare module!!!
  3. I am not an electronic ignition fan, but I am a retired electronics technician with a lot of varied experiences..... That said I will agree with what has been said above. Any electronic ignition system can have erratic triggering, IE: Erratic ignition timing. Pertronix ignition systems have documented issues with voltage, coils and grounding. That does not mean they are bad, it just means things need to be right. As the engine was running fine and failed suddenly, I would look at things that could have suddenly changed. Bloo pointed out several first suspects. Next check the power wiring to t
  4. Sounds like an EXCELENT first pass!! You will have a very good chance of it sealing and holding. Do not be afraid of spreading the JB out wider as you continue. The more surface area you have the better the hold and seal, within reason of course. Great job!!
  5. I agree with using a cutoff wheel on a grinder or Dremel tool to cut the cable after tightly wrapping it. One question: Aren't the ends of speedo cables pressed square or have a square sleeve crimped on them? If so, how are you going to preserve the square driving end?
  6. If that job came out of a professional machine shop I would want a refund AND ask for repair money for the external damage. That finish on a brake sleeve is criminal. An apprentice machinist could do better work! OK, rant off.......
  7. Thanks again Matt........ I try to help and seem to be 50-50 with confusing things. At least I can hide my own Easter eggs...............
  8. That is the place for the crankcase vent tube, or "draft tube". It is just a tube about one inch in diameter connected to a metal box that matches the casting. I think there is a filter material in the box to keep dust and dirt out of the crankcase. It mounts with the tube down and when driving the air flow causes a slight vacuum keeps the crankcase clear of vapors and moisture. In modern engines it is done with the PCV valve and hose. PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation. If you do not have it ask on the forum or again, call Dave :). On the crack and holes... It might be helpful to get s
  9. Oops, me wrong, I went back to Matts post and looked at the picture and it is the bigger opening. Its the pits to be getting older.... As for the crack. It looks to me that your holes may not be all the way to the ends of the crack. They need to be at the ends to relieve the stresses. As far as tapping and screws it is not needed. Just plug with the JB Weld unless you are thinking of stitching the crack. If you are I will leave the research to you. It is the way to fix cracks in cast iron, but it is a bit of an art and I am most definitely not an artist...
  10. @Rock10, looking at your pictures I have questions... Was the crack welded in the past? It looks like a new crack beside an old repair. Next, are there already holes drilled or is it just an illusion in the picture? Finally, I would go after that crack a bit more with the wire wheel and possibly even a light touch with a grinding wheel to get clean metal within the crack a tiny bit. You will most likely have a working repair with the JB Weld. Make sure to work the JB down into the crack to help seal and hold it in place. On these old cars the cooling system was not pressurized so that helps a
  11. Well the first question is if you want to keep things original. As you mention a generic new tank I will assume original is not a priority to you. The cost is hard to guess until the extent of the damage is known for sure. When I decided to repair the tank on my 37 Buick I had no idea how many small pinholes would appear as the tank was cleaned and repairs started. If you have an old time radiator repair shop in your area, that would be a good place to start asking. Many old radiator repair guys also fix tanks. Now for cost.... If a generic tank will fit where you need it to, it will almost c
  12. If you are going to try JB Weld make sure you clean the patch area VERY well. I would start with a wire wheel and then a harsh solvent. One of the best for oil and grease removal is actually brake cleaner. Wheel, cleaner, wheel, cleaner and keep going until squeaky clean. Heat also helps to sweat oil out of the cast iron. You do not have to get it super hot to sweat out oils. A propane torch will work well. Another thing you should do before applying the JB Weld is to drill a small hole, 1/8-3/16 at the ends of the crack. Be careful to only drill into the water jacket. Cast iron is a bit like
  13. Ouch! I know that feeling well. The 320 in our Roadmaster had the same crack and someone had tried to weld it. Well, like a lot of cast iron welded repairs it cracked again just below the repair. That was it for that block. We got another very good block from Dave Tachney and rebuilt that one. All is good as the block from Dave came out of a 37 Roadmaster so the numbers are even right!!! That crack is common as the block tends to have casting sand and junk in the water jacket and does not drain well. If this happens in cold winter areas and no antifreeze the block splits when it freezes.
  14. See the link in @MCHinson post above!!! I knew I saw it somewhere. Thanks Matt for jumping in to help @Rock10 with this!!!
  15. @Rock10, I am not sure. Mine was already cleaned before I was aware of the service documents. I am fairly sure that without the spring and cap it should basically fall apart. I would look it over very closely. If it is firmly in place someone may have done something to hold it in place. Brazed, soldered or some such. There was an article on this somewhere on the internet. Maybe at the 37-38 Buick Club or in an old issue of the 37-38 Buick Club's: Torque Tube. Hopefully someone will remember and chime in. I found an article in the Torque Tube that has a good write up on normal operation
  16. @Rock10, That bypass was problematic on a good day. Buick had a service document that described how to remove the valve and install a fixed orifice kit. I do not remember the exact specifications, but many people have done the same thing by driving a proper sized freeze plug with a hole drilled in the plug. I am thinking the hole was 1/4 inch or a bit smaller. The goal was, as @Ben Bruce aka First Born said above, to circulate a little coolant while the engine was warming up to allow the thermostat to open properly. I would recommend that you fix the problem by doing the Buick service fix.
  17. Put a can under the hood....... Have extras, put them in the can, come up short, take some 😇.
  18. The headlights being in series would dim the headlights, but not the running lights. I would be extremely suspect of the light switch since you had it open. Like Bloo said, the internals of that switch look very much alike, but are in fact different and make a difference. I have dug out my service manual and am looking at the stock wiring diagram. There is a circuit breaker on the light switch. The first thing to check is the power to the light switch and through the breaker. There should be a wire from the amp meter to the light switch. This is the battery power to the lighting circuits. Wh
  19. I have a new temp gauge for our Roadmaster and I am sure it is the same as the Special. I will be out to the car in a day or two and will check and measure it. You may get an answer sooner, but I will check.
  20. It will need 6 volts not to burn out the gauge. It may work with 12 volts, but its life may be limited. There are small converters just for the gauges available. Others on the forum should chime in with better answers.
  21. @Bobby Rodd, I have the same question as @Rock10. With the light switch pushed all the way IN, you should have NO lights on. Buicks do not have tail and running lights without the light switch pulled out. What you describe still sounds like a ground problem with the headlight bulbs. As you have checked and rechecked that, the light switch and/or wiring seems to be the most likely problem. The way I would check this is with a jumper wire. With the light switch pushed in all the way, jump from battery positive to each lighting circuit and see how things work and if the lights are bright. I do n
  22. One thing that has not been mentioned is something binding in the engine itself. I would take out the spark plugs, disconnect the distributor wire at the coil (this is not really needed, but I like to eliminate anything sparking when I do not need it)! Next lay a towel or shop rags over the spark plug holes and then try cranking her over. If she cranks smoothly let her crank for for 15 seconds or so and then look at the towel/rags to see if anything got blown out, like water etc. If it checks out good then I think you are back to the starter or solenoid. Just thinking out loud here.....
  23. Matt has a good idea. Also the fuel line from the pump to the carb could be plugged. My next step would be to take the line from the pump to carb loose and blow through it to confirm it is clear. If clear then reconnect it to the pump and see if the pump will pump from your test can to the open end of the line. If that checks OK the problem is in the carb... Take it one step at a time! Good luck.
  24. Is the problem consistent on both the left and right sides of the car? Also, is there any issue with the tail & brake lights as this is happening?
  25. Typical high quality chrome plating on steel is a tri-plate process. First plate the steel with copper, brass works also, then plate nickle then plate chrome. The copper can be plated thicker and multiple times if needed. This is the step where show quality finishing takes place. The copper is filed, sanded, buffed and polished until no scratches, pits or other defects can be found or seen. When a perfect copper finish is obtained then the final plating of nickle and chrome are done for a show quality finish. If this process is not followed the finish is not stable and will have a much shorte
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