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37_Roadmaster_C

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Everything posted by 37_Roadmaster_C

  1. Another thing to be careful of is some condensers can be misrepresented. Heavy Duty is sometimes based on the physical size of the unit. While not always, physical size can relate to the capacitance value in microfarads. The value of the condenser in microfarads is VERY important. It varies with the coil type and construction and if wrong will cause the points to erode quickly. I can never remember which way it works, but depending on if the value is hi or low will determine which point builds up and which one pits. As said above, if the condenser is working and the points are wearing well there is NOTHING to gain in performance or reliability by changing good parts. Just my $.02.....
  2. I really like this thread. I am learning about a whole lot of things that will help me as I begin to get my 60 back on the road. Bill, where did you get the replacement tank from?
  3. There are several options for replacing that regulator. The original regulator has 5 terminals and was only used for a few years. The replacements did not have the auto start lockout, but did have a way around that. Unfortunately, I do not know the specifics. Others here do and I am sure they will chime in soon.
  4. That type of response tells me that they are selling a problem child and know it!! Take the pass and look for a better option.
  5. Just a quick note about the test @Matt Harwood is talking about... If the cutout relay in the voltage regulator is not energizing, the full field test Matt describes will not work. The reason is that if the cutout relay is not energized the armature of the generator is not connected to the rest of the electrical system and therefore the amp meter will not show the charge even if the generator is working just fine. The next test should be to measure the voltage from the armature terminal (the large terminal) of the generator to the case of the generator with the field terminal grounded and the engine running above an idle. It should be over 6 volts. If it is then the voltage regulator or a connection is bad. Let us know what you find. Also, NEVER assume that because a part is new that it has not failed!!!!!!
  6. Yea, but it IS a Cadillac.......................👎
  7. Bloo and I have been friends since junior high in the mid 70's. I also feel like I was riding shotgun on this trip.
  8. @Frank DuVal, That link to the training manual was great. I really liked how it explained the various systems and practical troubleshooting procedures. I have been in electrical and electronic maintenance, repair and design for 40 years and it was still a good refresher!!!
  9. I personally have never had to polarize a generator unless it was going onto a car with a different ground polarity (pos to neg ot neg to pos). In most cases the junkyard generator will be going from and to a like car so no problem. I mention it as the service manuals ALL mention polarizing the generator. In any case, doing it hurts nothing and it may help.
  10. It is a bit strange, but from an engineering standpoint it is valid. The best thing about it is that the only cost of production is a short piece of wire. There are no extra components nor special components. It is an easy backup safety that still works at full throttle when vacuum drops. Lucasish, Yes, but this one works reliably 🤣.
  11. The starter relay gets its ground through the generator armature. What this means is that when the engine is not running the armature connection on the generator is effectively a ground and this allows the relay to activate when the accelerator is pressed. When the motor starts the generator begins charging and now the armature connection is approaching +6 volts. This effectively removes the ground from the start relay and prevents the starter engaging when the accelerator is pressed. With what you describe I am guessing there are a couple of issues. First is the carburetor start switch. When the motor starts, vacuum should pull the ball out of position thereby preventing the start relay activation. Second, I suspect the generator is not charging. This would prevent the second safety (removing the start relay ground) from working. The generator test is easy. With the motor running, after figuring out your noise, measure the voltage at the large terminal on the generator. If it is below 6 ish volts the generator is not working. This may simply be a need to polarize the generator and/or the regulator or it may be more. Simple checks first!!! Also, as said above, clean the carb switch and make sure the ball moves freely. Again, simple first. Let us know.
  12. Your welcome. I am glad you got her running.
  13. Ok, I think I see how it works. In your first photo are you showing two individual parts? I think that is what I am seeing now. If so, the sections with the arc wear marks sure look like cast, but maybe not. In any case making new would still be my recommendation. Also as Joe said, a good dry lube will help a lot.
  14. Ok, looking at the wiring diagram it shows two smaller wires connected to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. In factory wiring one is a 10 black and the other is a 16 black with natural tracer. The 16 is the smaller of the two. The first thing to do is always disconnect the battery before working on any wiring!!! Now, take the smaller wire loose and with it not touching anything and with the ballast bypassed, reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition. The engine should NOT crank. If this correct turn off the ignition, disconnect the battery and then switch the connections of those two wires at the solenoid. When that is done reconnect the battery. With the ballast bypassed turn on the ignition. The engine should not crank. If right then step on the accelerator and the engine should crank and you should have spark. If all is good you know what to do next 😀. If all is good you can leave the ballast bypassed and continue to try to get her running. The bypassed ballast will not hurt anything for short term test running. If you run for a long time it will heat the coil and wear on the points, but that will not happen quickly. It will take hours of running. Good Luck and let us know.
  15. Something is wired wrong. I looked at a 1953 wiring diagram (don't know if early or late production) and the only way it can crank, if wired properly, is by activating the start relay. That relay activates the starter solenoid and cranks the motor. Bypassing the ballast should have no effect on starting. The second wire mentioned above is actually a ballast bypass wire that comes from the starter solenoid. The purpose of this is to put a full 12 volts on the coil during start to provide a hotter spark when the voltage is lower when the starter is engaged. It is possible the wires are crossed at the starter solenoid. This would cause what you describe.
  16. It always makes the kids wonder when you "tell the car to start" and it does when you have BOTH hands on the wheel 🤣.
  17. I am not sure, but in your troubleshooting you say that the ballast resistor has 12 volts on one side and 0 on the other. Is this with the key on or off? If when on it would be normal with a bad ballast.
  18. I am also just not quite seeing how the assembly works. If you or someone has an exploded view or a picture showing the whole assembly it would help the understanding. I was first thinking the pin rides in the "throw out cone", but looking more the wear looks like the flat block may ride in the cone. In your first picture are you showing us one part broken in half or two parts with broken edges? Sorry. I am just not familiar with Buicks that old 🙄.
  19. That part looks like cast iron. If that is the case, welding is a gamble. Cast welding is an art at best and it never has the strength of the original cast part. I would make a new part from steel. I have the equipment to do this, but a good machinist could make a new one easily. Depending on the way it works and the moving load it may need to be hardened, but again, that is not a big issue. Material choice is the most important thing and a machinist can make a good choice that will fit the purpose. Just my thoughts.
  20. What you describe is not right. If you do not have a shop manual get one right now. Proper manuals are your best investment for a new old car. The manuals have the wiring diagrams, descriptions of system operations and all the other things you will need as you move forward. Keep us posted!!! Also, pictures are always welcome... Edit" Oops, I need to read better! You said you looked in the shop manual, so you must have one. Ignore above except that something is not right, which you already know....
  21. Isn't it amazing what can be created by garbage!!! Harold LeMay was the owner of a very profitable garbage company.
  22. I can not help with a good carb shop. Everyone in the northwest is gone. When you send it in send the complete carb. The shop will actually be more willing to help you if they can see everything they may be asked about and they may find other issues. Keep us posted. Also, the Carter WCFB is an excellent carb and a good shop will make it work very well. If you have specific questions PM CARBKING, Jon is the last word in carburetors!
  23. I am not sure which brake system you have, but I would closely look at the brake adjustment. A lot of drum brake systems are deigned to actually add braking force as you apply the brakes while going forward. This happens because of a slight cam action in the way the shoes are mounted. The fact that you mention poor braking in normal forward motion, poor adjustment would affect reverse braking even more.
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